This Month`s Focus: Technical Spotlight


This Month`s Focus: Technical Spotlight
September 2012
Zenith El Primero, Caliber 4052B Clutch
This Month’s Focus: Technical Spotlight
A Comparison of Cleaning Solutions
From Cleaning a Store to Owning a Store
Vacheron & Constantin during WW I
Measurements and the Tools for Measuring
Affiliate Chapter News
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in this
VOLUME 36, NUMBER 9, September 2012
Official Publication of the American
Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI)
701 Enterprise Drive
Harrison, OH 45030
866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)
or 513-367-9800
Fax 513-367-1414
[email protected] •
Amy S. Dunn
Managing Editor & Advertising Manager
Ext. 307 [email protected]
James E. Lubic, CMW21
Executive Director/
Education & Technical Director
Ext. 310 [email protected]
Thomas J. Pack, CPA
Operations Director
Ext. 311 [email protected]
Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21
Watchmaking Instructor/
Certification Coordinator
Ext. 309 [email protected]
Daniela Ott
Education & Certification Administrator
Ext. 303 [email protected]
Horological Times
Advisory Committee
Jordan Ficklin, CW21 : Chairman
Ron Iverson, CMC
Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21
David Fahrenholz
Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW
Robert D. Porter, CMW
Ron Landberg, CW21
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from
the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright ©2012 by the
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Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted
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A Comparison of
Cleaning Solutions
Jordan Ficklin, CW21
pg. 4
From Cleaning a Store
to Owning a Store
Jennifer Bilodeau
pg. 7
Vacheron & Constantin
and the “War to End
All Wars”
Matthew Bleecker
pg. 10
From the Workshop
Jack Kurdzionak, CW21
pg. 15
Measurements and the
Tools for Measuring in
Jay Holloway and
Michael Webb
pg. 18
Chelsea Clock Unveils
Rare Collector Series
pg. 25
Zenith El Primero
Striking 10th Watch
pg. 26
President’s Message
Manuel Yazijian, CMW21
pg. 2
Executive Director’s
James E. Lubic, CMW21
pg. 3
Affiliate Chapter News
pg. 22
Buy, Sell, Trade, and
pg. 34
Advertiser’s Index
pg. 37
Industry Advisory
Board Members
pg. 37
Just In!
Facebook Isn’t Just
for Socializing
pg. 30
The New Book by
Archie Perkins:
Antique Watch
Restoration, Vlm. 1
Questions & Answers
David Christianson,
pg. 32
Order your copy now at: in our
Online Store
Bulletin Board
pg. 33
education &
Advanced21 Information
pg 28
AWCI Course and
Exam Schedule
pg . 29
Archie B. Perk
Cover Photo: Zenith El Primero
Watch, Caliber 4052B, Clutch.
See article on page 26.
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Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited,
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a message from the
would like to thank all
the AWCI members who
voted for me for the position of Director on the AWCI
Board. I would also like to
thank the members of the
Board of Directors who entrusted me with the position
of president of AWCI. I am
looking forward to working with you this year to bring about some positive
changes. We are all very lucky to have such talented
members on the AWCI Board. Congratulations to the
new Directors, Jordan Ficklin, CW21, Mark Butterworth and Mike Blaszczyk, CW21. Thank you to the
out-going Director, Joseph Schrader, CMW21 and
past president Douglas Thompson, CW21 for serving the membership. We wish you the best of luck in
your endeavors.
If you would like to serve on a committee or have
questions, comments and concerns I encourage you
to contact me at [email protected]. or use the
form on page 31.
In the meantime, keep your skills honed, your standards very high, your attitude professional, your
tools and equipment in great condition and your
workshops clean and organized. You never know
who may come by to pay you a visit.
Being a watchmaker and clockmaker for over twenty-five years and having served in many capacities in
this industry, I have a good knowledge of its workings, both the positives as well the negatives. I am
confident my experience will enable me to propel
the after-sales service industry to new heights, which
will ultimately result in further stability and growth of
the retail sector in the U.S. The two sectors are inextricably linked together; one cannot exist without the
other and still hope to prosper.
After having left the AWCI in late 2007 as watchmaking instructor, I had the renewed experience of
working in the field again and seeing the way the
real world works. The repair sector (After-Sales Service) is not always a pretty picture. The workmanship standards (Standards and Practices), which
AWCI has created, is not always adhered to by the
membership, as well as the non-membership. This is
a great area of concern to me and needs to be corrected.
Time is money.
As part of my election promise to you, I would like
to substantially increase consumer awareness of our
existence and thereby bring more customers to your
doorstep—this equates to more income in your bank
account and, therefore, more personal leisure time.
For this to happen, you need to keep your end of the
promise and continue to adhere to the highest standards attainable when working on timepieces and
when dealing with your clients.
Knowing how to properly repair watches and clocks saves
It also helps to protect and enhance the brands you
promote as well as your reputation and integrity. Expertise
through formal training is available through AWCI, and
demand is growing! We invite you to learn more about the
hope that you will be as excited as we are about our other
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030-1696
Horological Times September 2012
a message from the
executive director
ongratulations to all
the newly elected
AWCI Officers. Our
president, Doug Thompson, was one year into his
presidency, but decided to
resign in order to begin a
new watchmaking business
venture. Manuel Yazijian,
CMW21, has stepped up to
take his place and we both
congratulate and thank him. Wes Grau, CMW21, is
now our Vice President and Henry Kessler will remain
Treasurer while David Douglas, CW21 remains Secretary, both for a second year. As for other Board
members, Wes Grau, CMW21, is the Affiliate Chapter
Chairman, Terry Kurdzionak is the IAB Chairwoman,
both for a second year, and Jason Ziegenbein, CW21
is temporally REC Chairman until we are able to get
a quorum of REC School members to elect his replacement. I look forward to working with all of you,
as well as the rest of the Board during the upcoming
The October issue of the Horological Times will be
the issue where we report to our members on the
activities of the Annual Convention and Educational
Symposium and will include pictures and more detail. However, I would like to take this opportunity
now to thank those who participated in the Convention and Symposium.
The Rolex ELM Charitable Trust Dinner and Awards
Program is the one time every year that we say
”thank you” to all who have been instrumental in donating their time and expertise on behalf of the Institute. We want to thank Rolex USA for sponsoring
this event and supporting AWCI in so many ways.
The ELM Charitable Trust Annual Fundraising Dinner
sponsored by Panerai was a hit that everyone enjoyed again this year. The dinner took place at the
Forney Museum of Transportation in Denver. The
museum had everything from bicycles to train engines…basically any type of transportation that ever
rolled on wheels. We appreciate the generosity of
Panerai for supporting the ELM Charitable Trust this
year. We also want to thank Swatch Group US for
sponsoring the transportation to the event, and we
thank Breitling, as well, for providing a breakfast for
all attendees.
by james E. Lubic, cmw21
Thanks also go out to Stephen Forsey of Greubel
Forsey, and CompliTime for kicking off the Convention as our Keynote Speaker. The presentation was
fantastic! It was a real pleasure to see Stephen, my
former classmate, after so many years. I also enjoyed
meeting his son who came along to see Denver. The
opportunity to hold and inspect the Greubel Forsey
GMT Tourbillon—up-close and personal—is a memory we won’t soon forget!
We also appreciate the work of the Symposium presenters, Ron Iverson, CMC, Mark Purdy, CC21, Bob
Okenden, CMC, Wes Grau, CMW21, Jordan Ficklin,
CW21, and Tom Schomaker, CMW21.
I would also like to thank the vendors for their participation in our two-day Trade Fair. These were:
Bergeon Tools, Cas-Ker Company, C.R. Time, Eckcells, Jules Borel and Co., MicroPower Battery Company, Mile Hi Clocks, Siriani the provider of the AWCI
FedEx Shipping program, Sy Kessler and Sons and
Twin City Supply. It was wonderful that you took the
time and made the investment to support AWCI and
our members.
There were many memorable moments at the Denver Convention, but purchasing Archie Perkins’ newest book, Antique Watch Restoration Volume 1, and
having Archie there to personally autograph my
book and 89 other AWCI members’ books was quite
something. Members stood in line for 45 minutes for
the opportunity to meet one of the true legends in
American Horology. Archie, I know all of the AWCI
membership— past, present, and future—thank you
for your dedication to our great profession!
A very big thanks goes out to all AWCI members
who attended the convention this year, and to all the
spouses who put up with the time and effort these
individuals put forth to better themselves professionally and support AWCI.
One last note, I want to wish Ex-President Thompson
the very best. I wish him much success in his next life
as Businessman – Watchmaker. His is a true professional and I’ll miss working with him as a Board member and as president.
Thanks Everyone!
Horological Times September 2012
A Comparison
of Cleaning
n the United States there are two main manufacturers of cleaning solutions. As you would expect,
they both claim their solutions are superior to the
competition. Also, as you are probably aware, watchmakers seem to be religiously connected to one solution or the other with no intention of switching.
As watchmakers, we know that “cleanliness is next
to godliness,” but we must also consider our own
health when choosing the chemicals we use in our
workshops. The purpose of this article is not to convince you to choose one cleaning solution over another, but to share with you the methods I used to
determine the efficacy of the cleaning solutions for
my own purposes, and to share my results. You can
use this information however you wish.
First of all, cleaning and rinsing solutions need to:
Dissolve old and dried-out lubricants, both natural and synthetic, and hold them in a
solution without re-depositing lubricants
elsewhere on the movement.
Be gentle enough not to damage the brass,
steel, or plating on movements, even after
repeated washings.
Dry in such a manner as to prevent the
formation of rust.
Be stable enough that they can be shipped
safely and stored for a reasonable amount of
time without any loss in efficacy.
I tried to develop a set of tests to determine efficacy
of the above points. For the purposes of this article,
I put the following products through my personal set
of tests:
I conducted a total of five tests on the cleaning solutions. For all tests involving a cleaning process, the
Greiner ACS 900 was used.
The first test was a cleaning solution test described
by Omega in their Working Instruction No. 27(WI27).
In this test, specially prepared discs available from
Omega are washed in the machine and then allowed
to dry. A test liquid is applied to the dry disc and
observed after 40 minutes. The amount and type of
spreading is evaluated against a standard set forth
by Omega to determine whether or not the cleaning solution has performed its job. The downsides
to this test are that it doesn’t replicate a real-world
condition. I was unable to ascertain how these discs
are treated or how the solution’s ability to remove
this coating relates to the solution’s ability to clean a
watch. The results of this test are in the table at the
end of this article. Based on my evaluation using the
information from the WI27, I determined that clean
baths of either L&R 111 or Zenith 67 will both meet
the standards set forth in WI27.
The second test was performed by preparing round
polished discs of stainless steel. I applied drops of
synthetic lubricants used in watchmaking: 9010, HP1000, TEPA, and Rolex MR-4 to these discs. To simulate the dried out and gummy state in which they are
found in watches they were heated until they begin
to smoke. The result was “baked-on” lubricants. All
three solutions failed to remove all of the lubricant.
The third test was performed by preparing round
polished discs of stainless steel. To each disc were
applied drops of common lubricants used in watchmaking: Moebius 9010, D-5, 9415, 8201, and KT-22.
To simulate the dried out and gummy state in which
they are found in watches, they were heated to 50
degrees Celsius and held at that temperature for two
weeks. Then they were warmed additionally until just
before the point where they begin to smoke. The result was “tacky” lubricants.
L&R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution 111
L&R Ultrasonic Watch Rinse 121
Zenith Formula 67 (Cleaning)
Zenith Drizebrite (Rinse)
Zenith Radiant (Cleaning)
Horological Times September 2012
a comparison of cleaning solutions
These discs were washed separately in brand new
solutions and then examined for remaining lubricant.
The results are summarized in the table at the end
of this article. L&R 111 and Zenith Forumla 67 both
provided satisfactory results but Zenith Radiant left
visible oils on the disc.
peated washings, it is easy to imagine the damage
that could possibly be caused by this solution.
The fourth test was an attempt at the water-break
test for cleanliness. Clean round, polished stainless
steel discs were washed in a new batch of solutions.
After removing the discs from the cleaner they were
dipped in distilled water, removed and held vertically. The run-off pattern was observed. When small
droplets form, that indicates the presence of hydrophobic contaminants on the surface. When the water spreads thin and doesn’t drain off, that indicates
cleanliness. On all three discs the water ran clear off.
The last test was designed to evaluate the level of
reactivity between the cleaning solutions and brass.
A small quantity of cleaning solution was placed in
the bottom of a clean glass jar. Small pieces of brass
were prepared each with the same shape and surface area and with the same mass of 0.155 grams.
The pieces were placed in the solution and then
checked for changes in appearance and mass over
time. They were first checked after 10 minutes and
then over longer periods of time.
The results are summarized in the following table:
Elapsed Time
L&R Ultrasonic 111
Zenith Formula 67
Zenith Radiant
10 minutes
Metal brightened
but no change in
surface texture or
Metal brightened
but no change in
surface texture or
Metal brightened
but no change in
surface texture or
1 hour
0.155 grams
0.154 grams
0.155 grams
42 hours
0.154 grams
0.138 grams visible change in
texture of material, 11% change
in mass. Solution
changed to dark
0.155 grams
L&R 111 and Zenith Radiant performed well but Zenith
Formula 67 was extremely aggressive, dissolving 11%
of the brass over the 42 hour test. It is important to
note that watch movements would not normally sit
in the solution for that length of time, but over re-
In addition to the cleaning test which paired cleaning solutions and rinsing solutions, the following test
was performed to assess whether the rinsing solutions would leave any residue behind. A small drop
of new solution was applied to a clean glass plate
using a glass dropper. The solution was allowed to
evaporate under a cover, and then the plate was visually inspected for any residue.
Alcohol - No visual residue
Acetone - No visual residue
Solvent H - No visual residue
Zentih 505 - No visual residue
L&R Ultrasonic Watch Rinse 121-faint residue
Zenith Drizebrite - faint residue
Both rinsing solutions left evidence of where they
had run. I could not determine whether they picked
up contaminants from the slide and moved them to
the edge of the drop where they were deposited, or
whether the solutions themselves left residue, but in
either case I was able to see where the solutions had
been after they evaporated.
After performing my tests, no one solution stood out
as superior. For the most part, they all succeeded in
cleaning away dried out oils and greases with L&R
111 and Zenith Formula 67 doing a slightly better job
than Zenith Radiant in these particular tests.
In these “real-world” tests (which are less scientific
because there is no control of variables) I found all
three solutions to do an adequate job of cleaning the
Horological Times September 2012
a comparison of cleaning solutions
watches, but the Zenith solutions took much longer
to dry (in fact, they took longer to dry than the maximum length of drying cycle on my machine). If you
ask around at your local guild meetings or in Internet forums you will find just as many watchmakers
who swear by one solution as do by the other. You
may even hear some interesting anecdotes about
blind tests in service centers where watchmakers
complained their watches weren’t getting clean
and you’ll definitely hear about the “brown sludge.”
I have never experienced the brown sludge myself,
but I hear it is awful to deal with. I’ll leave these anecdotes for you to discover on your own in an attempt
to keep this report as scientific in nature as possible.
L&R Ultrasonic 111
Zenith Formula 67
Zenith Radiant
Omega Score
Spread all the way
across the disc and
outer edge was
very irregular.
Spread all the way
across the disc and
outer edge was
very irregular.
Spread to where
there was no
visible raised
portion. Outside
edge irregular.
Burnt Oil
Some areas of
discolored oils
visible - removable with peg
Some areas of
discolored oils visible - removable
with peg wood.
Some areas of
discolored oils
visible - removable with peg
No visible areas of No visible areas of
Some areas
of grease still
visible -- easily
removed with
peg wood.
Drop Test
Tall Spherical
Drop of Distilled
Tall Spherical
Drop of Distilled
Tall Spherical Drop
of Distilled Water.
While performing these experiments I also conducted a small survey of watchmakers. In total, 86 watchmakers responded. The majority of watchmakers
were using either L&R or Zenith Solutions in a pretty
even split. A few used homemade solutions and an
even smaller number sourced solutions from Europe
which are not readily available in the United States.
A strong majority of watchmakers stated that effectiveness was the most important factor in choosing
a solution, followed by environmental impact, health
concerns and price. Shelf life and brand recommendation were the least important. Surprisingly, only
two-thirds of those surveyed had tried to test out
different solutions in their workshop.
Test of new
blank disc
with no washing.
Zenith solutions have a less-pronounced odor. This
is because they have formulated the solution so that
the ammonia doesn’t evaporate as easily. Ammonia
is a toxic chemical, so this is a positive thing, but it is
also likely the reason their solutions do not evaporate
as quickly. It is a good idea to operate your cleaning
machine in a separate room from where you repair
your watches. All solutions should be used in a wellventilated area. The ACS 900 I use in my shop is fully
enclosed and has a filter on the exhaust fan which is
connected to an outside vent. Despite the weaker
odor, both solutions have many of the same toxic
ingredients and require special handling for disposal.
Generally speaking, those who choose Zenith
solutions do so because of their weaker odor,
the claims that they are more environmentally friendly, and/or because they had experienced problems with another solution and
sought out the alternative. Those who use L&R solutions tend to do so because of their
time-tested consistency and effectiveness.
Whichever solution you use, here are some
important tips to remember:
Change your solutions frequently
Clean your jars between every batch
(use soap and water)
Be sure the jars are completely dry before
refilling them with solution* (see sidebar)
If you use an automatic machine, wipe down the unit above the jars frequently
(this is a source of contamination)
Operate the machine in a well-ventilated
area away from your workspace
Dispose of your used solutions in a
responsible manner
I don’t understand the
chemistry, but cleaning solutions and water don’t mix. When
just a drop of water,
a cloudy gelatinous
material forms as is
shown in this photo. t
Horological Times September 2012
From Cleaning a
Store to Owning
a Store
A Spotlight on Women
in Horology
When You Just Know What You Like
hen Erica Wyatt was eighteen years old,
she was employed at a car repair shop and
aspired to become one of the skilled mechanics. She liked the thought of being able to fix
things on her own; not having to rely on somebody
else to do things for her. The ability to repair mechanical items gave her independence and was emotionally fulfilling. Early on, Erica knew she was good
with mechanical-related repairs. She knew some
people struggle their whole life to find their niche,
but it was apparent she was mechanically inclinedright from the start.
The AWCI staff met Erica at the NAWCC/AWCI Mixer last winter, here at the AWCI facility in Harrison,
Ohio. What struck us as interesting was that Erica
owned her own clock repair shop and had a great
interest in the art of timekeeping. She was excited to
learn that an institute like AWCI existed to support
and promote professional clock and watchmakers,
and she is now an AWCI member.
From Clock Shop Cleaning to Clockmaking Apprentice
When we contacted Erica to ask her about her background, she started out the conversation by making
it clear that she did not claim to know “everything”
about clockmaking, and that she still considered herself a “student” of horology. She explained that she
was mentored by (and still works along with), Edgar
Hume, who has been repairing clocks since the late
Erica said there was always more to learn in the industry. Even though she had been repairing clocks
for the past 10 years, she gives much of the credit
Erica Wyatt with a group of clocks for repair.
to Edgar, who owned The Clock Shop in Lexington,
Kentucky, since the 1980s. Edgar was trained by
Newton Graham Noell, a well-known master clockmaker and owner of TimeWise.
This brings us back to the beginning of this story.
While Erica was working in the car shop, she got a
second job, organizing clock parts and cleaning The
Clock Shop for Edgar. Even at age 23, Edgar noticed
Erica’s interest in repair and offered her a “real” apprenticeship in his store. She knew the apprenticeship would be something that would require her to
commit to the training and to get serious. Because
she was serious, she pursued a machining degree at
the local college to learn how to make parts, to learn
about pitch, thread for screws, differences between
metals and more.
Erica recalls that she was the only woman in the machining classes at the college—almost all of the students were men with CNC and gunsmithing interests.
It never bothered her that she was the only female in
the class. She was too busy enjoying the course and
preparing for her future.
History Makes Us Who We Are
Erica explained that, during her apprenticeship, she
discovered her passion lies in the ability to help restore and share history. She loved being able to bring
a family heirloom back to life. For her, it’s exciting to
repair an item so that it makes the “same sounds”
their relatives may have heard generations before.
Horological Times September 2012
from cleaning a store to owning a store
working in the same office. Each one shares equipment, staff and space, but each is their own business
entity. Erica brings in her own business and performs
on-site clock repair. She also has a section of an antique store called “Chime Time” which brings in repair work. In addition to repair, The Clock Shop is
also a magic tricks and magician supply store. Erica
explains that some early stage illusions were
powered by clockworks—thus the clock and magic
The Challenges of Owning Her Own
When discussing the challenges of being a small, female-owned business, Erica does agree that there’s
sometimes a stigma and some people don’t envision
that a woman can be a good clockmaker. She still
gets an occasional client who says, “I want a man
who is a clockmaker to work on this.” Erica says she
bites her tongue, because most of the time, it does
no good to explain to the customer that she is the
one who will, most likely, be performing the repair.
On a house call with a customer.
She considers it an honor to preserve and pass history on to future generations.
Erica shares, “I love the history behind the clocks that
are brought in. For example, envision a mantel clock
that has sat in the same spot for 75 years, ringing
out the hours all that time. Each clock contains clues
as to when it was created. For example, Banjo and
other shelf clocks display art on the tablet with information in the painted picture, offering a hint to the
date of manufacture. You also consider the material
in the case and movement. Was it made by machine?
Are there brass works or wooden work movements,
which usually date from 1780 to 1845? Finding things
like hand-painted dials, cat-gut weight cords, wavy
glass…all this makes me excited to come to work every day.”
Working with a Mentor
Over the past decade Erica moved from cleaning
and organizing a clock shop, to being mentored, to
owning her own clock repair business. She still works
alongside Edgar at The Clock Shop in Lexington, yet
she has her own business. She describes their business relationship as being similar to two doctors
Erica has begun to specialize in the repair of wooden
work movement clocks, an important item in early
American clock design. She also repairs everything
from tower clocks to desk clocks, from cuckoos and
metronomes, to music boxes and wind-up toys.
Erica’s attitude is positive and powerful. “It’s too bad
more women don’t try this trade.” She continues,
“And being a woman also occasionally puts some
of my female clients at ease, knowing they are not
alone during a house call with a guy they’ve never
met. Often, the family clock is maintained by the
woman of the household anyway. She’s usually the
one who winds and takes care of it.”
The Challenges of Being a Good
Repair is challenging and Erica likes that. There are a
lot of possibilities of failure modes with repair. “I try
to put higher estimates on repairs that are complicated to give myself time if the repair takes longer
than expected. I also only charge for something I can
repair. If I can’t fix it, I don’t charge for it.
A frustration Erica sees a lot, which she must explain
to people, is that you cannot simply hook up a clock
Horological Times September 2012
from cleaning a store to owning a store
to computer diagnostics to “immediately find out
what’s wrong with it.” Uncovering the problem takes
time, testing, troubleshooting and patience. It can
sometimes be difficult for people to comprehend
since we live in a world with “info at our fingertips.”
Although she is positive about the field of clockmaking, she worries that digital technology will devalue
historical items where the younger generation is
concerned. She thinks our youth may be missing out
on the wonder of “the mechanical things in life,” like
clocks with amazing stories to tell.
Erica concludes by saying she hopes to be a mentor
herself in the future. However, she wants many more
years of clockmaking and repair experience before
she’ll feel comfortable in that role. Meanwhile, Erica
is proud to work with her mentor, is satisfied with the
workload between the two stores, and she intends to
continue to grow her skills and become an even better clockmaker. t
Performing repairs at the workbench
Horological Times September 2012
Vacheron &
Constantin and
the “War To End
All Wars”
A Brief History
n May, 1918, purchasing agents from the American
Expeditionary Force (AEF) drafted an order for other specific features involving winding and legibil5,000 Vacheron and Constantin pocket watches. ity. These requirements both Hamilton and Vacheron
These watches were headed to the Corps of En- and Constantin could easily meet, both being world
gineers to be used primarily for the supervision of leaders in quality.
railroad operations in France. Other contracts were
tendered since the U.S.
Of the 3,289 chronoarrival with other Swiss
graphs, my great-grandbrands numbering over
acThis was a student thesis project for Lititz Watch
10,000 watches. With the
quired one of the .900
Technicum. It took the course of one year to complete
American presence growall the aspects of this endeavor. It will be presented
silver-cased, gold-plated,
ing from 420,000 troops
in four consecutive issues of Horological Times maga20-jewel
to near 1.2 million by the
zine. This first article is a brief history and introduction
watches. Later in the arto the technical side of the service. The theory behind
end of 1918, the demand
ticle I will describe my
repairing the “Hedgehog” stop works is also included
for quality timepieces
restoration of this watch
here. Numerous historic letters accompanying this
was constant. Contracts
which began life with the
research can be found on at: FOR
held with Zenith, Ulysse
Corps of Engineers DurWATCHMAKERS & CLOCKMAKERS / FOR THE WATCHMAKNardin, and subsequently
ing World War I.
IWC, Moser and Movado,
were for time-only watchExact historical facts on
es. Only Vacheron and
how my great-grandfaConstantin were engaged for chronographs. Of the ther procured the watch are not available, at this
5,000 chronographs ordered, 3,289 were delivered point, anything on the military history of this particuby the end of the conflict.
lar watch would be pure conjecture. What is known
American-made watches would also have been used.
Actually, 1,000 Hamilton watches were taken, but
because of the unreliable state of the trans-Atlantic
shipping routes, the AEF decided to get what supplies it could in Europe. I find it interesting that the
very best of Swiss manufacturers was hired, and even
that the standard watch being used by the Corps was
the famous American-made Hamilton. Timing of military actions was crucial, and it only makes sense that
the best timepieces should be employed. The Corps
of Engineers required their watches to meet the Railroad-grade standards established in 1893, and some
is that my great-grandfather Maitland, did not serve
overseas during the war, and was, in fact, not in the
Corps of Engineers until much later. Family accounts
did no justice in recalling the arrival of the chronograph into the Bleecker family. Yet, there are a few
interesting stories that are, perhaps, more meaningful to its value as an heirloom. Apparently, there
were, at one point, two such watches in Maitland’s
possession and one was sold to pay for the repairs
of the other. The watch was used to time races in
the homespun “Olympic” games my father participated in as a boy. Most recently, before it came into
my possession, it was being regularly used by my
Horological Times September 2012
vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars”
grandfather because his digital watch had recently
met its end. An interesting circle of events probably
surround this watch, never to be known in full detail; however, having the opportunity to service the
watch has given me insight into the technical details
of its past. Though not an exhaustive account, what I
discovered is at least more than what was previously
The remainder of this paper is primarily a technical
account of the process and work I did in order to
restore, to the best of my present ability, this magnificent watch to its original state. Some things were
irreversible, and others required secondary fixes, and
some components needed to be remade, and one
designed and made.
and its parts. My goals were fixing the lower balance
hole jewel and making the balance staff, the missing
stop-work wheel, and the missing bridge screw.
The Watch
Movement: A beautiful gilt main-plate and threequarters chronograph bridge are home to magnificently-finished levers and poised gear-train wheels.
It has a Swiss lever escapement, bi-metallic balance
wheel, column wheel chronograph and barrel stop
The Service
When I began this service, I approached it as a watchmaker in awe. I was about to overhaul a Vacheron
and Constantin pocket chronograph that belonged
to my great-grandfather, and I could not make any
mistakes. There are no parts available, so whatever
did not need to be fixed was treated with care and
put aside. I compiled a small list of things to do and
parts to make as I disassembled the movement. I
did not expect to find anything significantly wrong
with the watch since it was actually running when I
received it. But, the truth was soon revealed! There
were a few minor problems, some missing screws
and a small amount of surface rust among them.
The major problem was with the oscillator, specifically the balance staff and the lower hole jewel. I
knew right away this was going to be the first thing I
fixed. I wanted to work in an order that made sense.
It seemed to me the best approach was to repair the
items necessary in order for the watch to run again.
So post haste, I began repairing the jewel, then made
plans for making a balance staff. Lastly, I would make
the missing screws.
I believe the service went basically as planned, although there were several major changes I had to
make along the way. There was also a mishap or
two that ended up setting me back a few steps. I
had originally planned to focus on the historical aspects, but the information was either closely guarded or had been long forgotten. In a time of war, the
small details pertaining to watch purchases seemed
to have fallen by the wayside or were never documented from the beginning. My final plan consisted
of documenting, to the best of my ability, the watch
16 Size, 19 Lignes
Swiss Lever
Split Bi-Metallic Balance Wheel
Horological Times September 2012
vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars”
The Case: It is a four-piece .900 silver case. The
back is engraved with “Corps of Engineers U.S.A., No.
2366.” The inner dust cover is engraved with “Vacheron & Constantin” and “Geneve.” Both the back and
the dust cover are hinged to the main case, but the
bezel and crystal snap on.
like. The concept is, of course, the same as the average stop works, but is comprised of two star-shaped
wheels instead of the Maltese cross design. With
the help of Mike Graham, a fellow Lititz student, and
some mathematical principles, I was able to ascertain the design of the missing wheel.
This was the first technical endeavor I undertook. As
soon as I had the design figured out, I made a model
to help me better understand how it worked plus a
drawing so I could remake it.
Corps of Engineers Stamp
The missing wheel has to be mathematically derived
from the existing wheel. I used what Mike figured
out, then I came up with a process to unequivocally
determine the design of the missing wheel. Wheel
“A” has a certain diameter and number of teeth, two
of its teeth are divided into three smaller teeth.
My detailed process relies on the dimensions and circular pitch of wheel “A” and the recess into which
the missing wheel “B” must fit.
Brand Engraving on Caseback
The Service Actuated
The Stop Works: As I dove into the project, I eventually made it to the stop works. Not only was a component missing, but none of my instructors had ever
seen the design before. This system was atypical and
I had no idea what the missing component looked
Now that I have the circular pitch of wheel “A” I
can determine the circular pitch of wheel “B.” Since
wheel “A” has an even number of teeth—and two
are clearly divided into three—wheel “B” must relate
not only to the larger tooth profile but also to the
Horological Times September 2012
vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars”
Knowing the dimensions and number of teeth of
both components, I can now determine if such a system allows a proper number of full rotations of the
ratchet wheel. Wheel “A” has a diameter of 5.1 mm, 12
teeth and
6 a circular pitch of 1.335 mm. Wheel “B” has
a diameter of 4.24 mm, 20 teeth and a circular pitch
of .667 mm. The importance of the circular pitch is
to determine the rational relationship between the
two wheels.
Stop Works on Barrel Lid
Doubling the tooth count of “A” and, therefore, dividing the circular pitch in half is a good place to
start. This will divide to the correct circular pitch. It
will also define a wheel whose diameter is the same
as “A” with twice as many teeth. Since the recess
for wheel “B” is a maximum of 4.4 mm, a wheel of
equal size will not work. In order to make the diameter smaller, but keep the circular pitch the same, the
number of teeth on wheel “B” must be lessened by
multiples of two. To find the proper number of teeth
and to find a system that concludes in the proper
number of turns, I started with the maximum number of teeth and systematically eliminated two at a
time, working backwards until the diameter would fit
in the recess.
Diameter “A” and “B” = 5.1 mm
This part is a little tricky to understand. What I need
is the number of turns that wheel “B” allows wheel
“A” to make. The important principle that takes effect is that wheels with different tooth counts mesh
with different teeth on every
20 rotation until returning
back to the zero point. Using 1 turn of wheel “B” as
a reference, we determine that “A” turns only a fraction.
12X 20
When 20
I refer to the “number of turns,” imagine that
there is a mark on each wheel at the line of centers.
The number of turns refers to the number of times
both marks return to the line of centers at the same
1 A
point. The genius of this system is in the different
tooth counts on the individual wheels which allow
the uncut tooth to travel freely until returning back
to the zero point. The number of turns can be empirically determined once the wheels are in place, but
should be mathematically calculated as a purposeful
function of the system. The number of turns using 20
teeth for wheel “B” is calculated thus:
Since I know that wheel “B” must be smaller than
or equal to 4.4 mm in diameter, using the same formula and less teeth will equal a smaller diameter. The
tooth count of wheel “B” can be lessened to 22 teeth,
which will make the diameter smaller20
but keep the
circular pitch the same. This process is repeated until the answer is a diameter that will fit in the recess
of 4.4 mm. The 22 teeth will equal out to 4.67 mm,
which is still too big, so it must be 20 teeth.
12X 20
For every one turn of wheel “A” wheel “B” makes 1.2
turns. In order for the1starting
points%of both wheels
to make it back to each other wheel “A” must rotate
5 times.
1.2 x 5 = 6 Turns of wheel B
Horological Times September 2012
vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars”
Key Dimensions of the “Hedgehog” Stop Works
20 Jewels
Theoretically, 5 turns is the maximum number
of turns wheel “A” is allowed to make for every 6
turns of Wheel “B”. The practical application brings
this all together. Eliminating the top and bottom
of the torque curve of the mainspring is essentially
the same as just eliminating the first full turn of the
ratchet wheel and the last full turn. I estimate this is
the setup in this watch and that a full wind is 7 full
turns of the ratchet wheel. Since wheel “A” is directly
connected to the barrel arbor and, subsequently, the
ratchet wheel, installing wheel “B” after one full rotation of wheel “A” eliminates this initial wind from
normal run down.
At this point I need to mention the placement of each
wheel which allows this system to work. The existing wheel “A” is located directly on the barrel arbor
and is stationary under normal running. Wheel “B” is
located on the barrel lid and under normal running
orbits around wheel “A”. When the watch is wound,
wheel “A” drives wheel “B” until reaching its locking
Column Wheel Chronograph
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In next month’s issue, I will explain the repair to the
main plate and the process of making the new balance staff. t
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Brooklyn, NY
Horological Times September 2012
from the
his often overlooked
small part, the center
tube, used in numerous ETA and Sellita movements, can cause big problems when damaged, even
if only slightly. Both quartz
and mechanical movements
utilize a center tube. This
simple, low-cost part is friction fit to the main plate and
performs several functions.
Internally, it supports the
seconds wheel (ref. 0227) and provides a bearing
surface for its lower pivot. Externally it supports the
driver cannon pinion (ref 0242) and it provides an
exact center reference point for the dial with respect
to the main plate. Of course, that center reference is
accurate only if the center tube is perpendicular to
the main plate.
There is an easy check to test the uprightness of the
center tube before disassembling a watch movement. With the hands still fitted to the movement,
move the hands through a twelve-hour cycle, all
the while carefully observing the distance between
the minute hand and the dial. That hand should remain parallel to the dial through each entire 60-minute cycle. If the minute hand-to-dial distance varies
through that cycle, it is evidence of a damaged cen-
Part 161, the center tube.
ter tube. Also, observe the hour hand throughout the
twelve-hour cycle to confirm that it remains parallel
to the dial. Also confirm its distance from the dial
and the minute hand remains constant throughout
the cycle.
Remove the hands and check the concentricity of
the central dial opening with that of the center tube.
If the dial opening is not concentric, it may interfere
with the hour wheel, consequently causing timekeeping issues. You may carefully adjust the dial’s position to make it concentric with reference to the center tube by gently moving the dial into the desired
position. There is some risk of dial damage involved
by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21
with such an adjustment. It is always a good practice
to make this adjustment only after having a discussion explaining the risks involved with the owner of
the watch. Remember, it is better to ask permission
first instead of asking forgiveness afterwards.
Removing the tube.
Replace all damaged center tubes and do not make
any dial adjustments to a watch with a damaged center tube. First, replace the tube then adjust the dial
as needed. The center tube is a relatively inexpensive part, about $5 as shown on some material dealers’ websites. It is friction fit to the plate, and easily
removed and replaced using your jewelling tool. Set
up the jeweling tool with the appropriate punch and
stump and push the tube out of the plate as shown
in the photo. Some tubes come out to the rear, while
others come out to
the dial side of the The audience for this article
plate. You will need is anticipated to be experito determine in which enced watchmakers who aldirection to push, and ready know which punches
it will not take much and stumps in the jewelling
force tool set are appropriate for
the tube out of the each of the variety of center
plate. Install the new tubes they will encounter.
tube by again using a The punch is small enough to
press on the center tube and
proper size punch and the stump is just large enough
stake and pushing the to accept the tube as it is
tube home into the pushed from the movement.
plate as shown in the The punch used for insertion
associated photo. It is again sized to the tube in
is important when fit- question and the stump is
ting a new tube to be the correct size to accept the
certain the tube is in tube as it is pushed into the
all the way.
Horological Times September 2012
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from the
by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21
ping, or not running at all. You need to make sure
the train is free and the endshake on the seconds
wheel is within specs. The tube, when improperly
seated, can cause insufficient endshake on the seconds wheel. In this case, push the tube home before
making any adjustment to the seconds wheel jewel
in the train bridge.
Check the condition of the center tube during every
watch repair. It only takes a few moments to check
it, and if needed, to replace it. Locate the problem
before it causes trouble and heed the words of the
late Abraham Cohen, well-known Boston watchmaker, “You can fool a customer, but you cannot fool
his watch.” The watch will always tell you there is a
problem. t
Inserting the tube.
On occasion, the center tube can be visually upright,
but may have some unseen damage. A tube with an
imperceptible bend or an internal flaw may bind the
seconds wheel, thus causing a variety of troubles relating to amplitude, timekeeping, occasionally stop-
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK ! American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute AWCI
Horological Times September 2012
technical discussions
and the Tools
for Measuring
in Horology
e are all a part of an
organization created
for those who have an
interest professionally, or as a
hobby, in timekeeping. Time, as
the magnet on my refrigerator
says, is “nature’s way of keeping everything from happening
at the same time.” It provides a
means to measure what we experience—to separate
the now from later or earlier. We work with devices
made to measure time. To work on those devices, we
frequently need to measure things other than time.
This program will be devoted to those measurements and the tools used for measuring.
This was a presentation by Michael Webb, with notes
by Jay Holloway. Both are members of The Capital Area
Watchmakers and Clockmakers Guild (CAWCG) in Austin, Texas. This is just one example of some of the fascinating programs offered by our local chapters.
Basic measurements are always needed since these
horological devices, even when not precision, are
made to divide up time. In some of the most primitive devices, such as a very early clepsydra or water
clock (see Figure 1), consisted of a bowl of water with
a leak—but it needed to be a specific leak. The hole
in the bowl had to release the water at a known rate
or the leak needed to have a scale imposed upon it.
Simple sundials soon had scales on them to divide up
the daylight hours. Timekeeping instruments eventually moved to gears as a means of releasing power
in a controlled manner, thereby moving an indicator
that was marked for timekeeping. While there was
innovation in many areas, a lot of the inspiration for
gears and mechanisms came in the pursuit of keeping time.
As anyone who has
spent many instances
working with timepieces knows that geared
mechanisms have tolerances that must be
honored for the piece
to work. These tolerances require careful
measurements. These
measurements included length, depth, thickness, and weight, and
must be known and
matched. Rulers, dividers, scales and many
Figure 1: Clepsydra or water clock. other tools are needed
to produce a timepiece
that works. The more precise the timekeeping, the
more precision needed in measurements of the parts
used to construct the works. With a wide variety of
mechanisms used to measure time, there are a great
many tools used to measure the parts used in horological devices.
measurements are fairly
depth. Starting with
the least precise, we
have rulers. A good,
ruler can be the beginning point for checking these dimensions
down to about 1/16th
Figure 2: Vernier caliper.
of an inch, or one millimeter. With some specialized rulers you may get
accuracy at 1/32nd of an inch. Beyond that level of
precision we start to need other devices. One of the
simpler ones available is a vernier caliper (see Figure
2). These are simple to use, but you do need to know
how to read it. It is not complicated, but not intuitive,
The dial caliper (Figure 3) is easier to read and is
used by many more people now than the vernier caliper. It requires no calculations and it is intuitive to
read. The main choice on the dial caliper is whether
or not to use a dial read or a digital read. Some people are wary of the accuracy of digital models, my-
Horological Times September 2012
Leak tester
Figure 3: Dial caliper.
self included in the past,
but the reliability of the
digital models has improved a great deal. The
digital models do provide an answer on the
one other big choice
with regular dial calipers, that being metric
or inch, since they can
be changed from one
to the other by pushing
a button. Of course, as
with any other electrical
device, when the battery
is dead, it makes a great
paper weight.
The vernier caliper, having fewer moving parts,
can be more accurate
Figure 4: Micrometer.
than a dial caliper—but
much depends on how
well each has been made. While the vernier caliper,
and various incarnations of the dial caliper are quite
accurate, most craftsmen, when faced with the need
for absolute accuracy, will go back to the micrometer
(see Figure 4). The micrometer is not as convenient
as calipers, but a good micrometer is more accurate
than an equal quality caliper. One of my uncles had
a machine shop; he called calipers “guessing sticks.”
One caveat on this subject is that the calipers are
closer in accuracy on small parts, when you get up
in inches, trusting the thousandths or ten-thousandths
reading is more problematic. Of course, another thing
my uncle was careful about was not working to tolerances that he did not need. Be sure you need to measure to thousandths for the application before you
start worrying about them. If you are not looking for a
slip or interference fit, you may not need the accuracy
level of a micrometer. Or, if you are working on clocks
rather than watches, your need for accuracy will not
often always require a micrometer. Micrometers are
fairly easy to read. Of course, there are digital models of these, as well, making measurements extremely easy to read. Some ten-thousandths micrometers
use a vernier scale (as seen on the vernier caliper) for
reading on the thimble.
For very close measurements there are bench micrometers. One of these is a very nice boxed piece,
the Bench Micrometer (see Figure 5). This micrometer
is very accurate, has a couple of ways to measure, and
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Horological Times September 2012
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measurements and the tools for measuring in horology
a small table to support for measuring small bits. If you see one at a
reasonable price and you need that accuracy, buy it. When you need
to measure depth, often you can get a good reading from the tail-end
of a caliper. Or, you can insert something into the hole, then mark it
and measure it. Otherwise, if more accuracy is needed, you can use a
depth micrometer (see Figure 6). These often come with more than
one rod so as to cover a good range of measurements.
Figure 5: Bench micrometer.
Figure 6: Depth micrometer.
Figure 7: Uprighting tool.
Figure 8: Depthing tool.
Figure 9: Triple beam scale.
“Scale! We don’t need no stinking scale!” Of course, some measuring devices don’t really need a scale. It could be argued that these
are location rather than measuring devices. But for the sake of thoroughness, I should mention they are used in horology. The simplest
would be a divider. We generally think of a compass from school days,
but a simple divider will allow you to measure a distance and transfer
that distance to another location. A slightly more complicated device
would be the old watchmaker’s uprighting tool (see Figure 7). It allows
you to find a location on one plate and transfer it with accuracy to
the other. This insures that your wheels will be “upright,” not leaning.
There are other examples of this type of measuring in horology. For
example, a depthing tool (Figure 8) could be included in this family of
tools. It determines the ideal distance for gear engagement and then
allows you to transfer that distance to the plates.
Weight measurement is not used extensively in horology, but it is
needed at times. One of those times it may be used is in timing washers for watches. Sometimes, the weight is known already, and this applies to the weights used on Atmos clocks to adjust the timing. With
the advent of electronic scales being produced at low costs, it is quite
cheap and easy to pick up the old triple beam scales (see Figure 9)
if you need accurate weight measurements. Another example of the
need for a weight measurement would be when you have a weightdriven clock movement with no weights.
As most of you have probably experienced, when folks in Europe suddenly found that Americans would pay for those old clocks gathering dust in the attic, the dealers who gathered them up and shipped
them were sometimes not all that careful about keeping the weights
with the right clock, or even with a clock at all. The simplest way to
discover the weight needed (assuming the movement is clean and
in good working order) is to use a fishing scale. Be sure you get the
old-fashioned direct-read because digital will not work as well. You
set up the movement with the scale with one end attached to the end
of the cord or chain on the movement, and the other end attached to
something fixed. Wind up the clock until there is enough tension to
make the clock run strong. Let it run. When it stops, check the weight
shown on the scale and add about 20% to that measurement for a
good guess at the weight needed.
horological or specialized measuring tools can include:
For measuring outside diameter there is the very common
KWM bushing measurement plate (Figure 10). It has two rows
of bushing imbedded in the aluminum plate so you can easily
try a pivot to see which size bush you will need.
Horological Times September 2012
measurements and the tools for measuring in horology
• There is the less
common Seitz
jeweled version for
watches used for
the same purpose
of selecting jewels.
• There is also the
Figure 10: KWM bushing measurement plate.
pivot gauge usually provided with a Jacot
lathe (see Figure 11) to help determine what bed size to use.
• And, a fairly rare tool is the wheel gauge designed to quickly check the outside diameter of a watch wheel.
• While these will measure the outside of a round object,
the plug
gauge (Figure 12) will measure the inside of a hole.
• Then, there is also the sliding hole gauge.
• There is the roller jewel gauge (see Figure 13), much like the
feeler gauges used for spark plugs.
• There are crystal gauges (see Figure 14) to measure the size of
watch crystals, often proprietary to the manufacturer.
• There are gauges to measure between the lugs on wrist
watches to determine the size of watch bands and spring bars.
• Additionally, there are watch mainspring gauges (see Figure
15) that determine the strength and width of the spring.
• Of course, there are also thread checkers to determine screw
sizes and pitch.
• Watch crown gauges (Figure 16) measure size and tap for
• Finally, there is a gauge for setting up the angle of watch pallet
Any clockmaker who works on 400-day clocks is familiar with the
Terwilliger book, indispensible for working on these beasts. One of
the great features of the book is a “to scale” size diagram for most
suspension units which is very helpful when replacing the suspension
This is just one review of the myriad
of tools used for
watch and clockmakers may have
others not mentioned which they
prefer, and there
are always new
tools coming on the
market that offer to
make our measurements even more
precise. t
Figure 11: Jacot lathe.
Figure 12: Plug gauge.
Figure 13: Roller jewel gauge.
Figure 14: Crystal gauge.
Figure 15: Watch mainspring gauge.
Figure 16: Watch crown gauge.
Horological Times September 2012
affiliate chapter
Florida State Watchmakers and Clockmakers Association
A Letter from FAWC President on
Education and Their Exciting
Upcoming Events
t the AWCI annual convention in Denver, I
was glad to represent our Florida State Chapter and to be involved in the Industry Advisory Board (IAB) meeting. I was able to learn so much
during the convention!
In Florida, we are proud to call ourselves the Education Chapter. For many years, we have been helping our members in Florida and other states become
certified watchmakers by offering beneficial classes
that all count as CEU’s. We are able to offer these
classes with the help of AWCI instructors from past
and present to keep our organization thriving. For
example, AWCI Instructor, Tom Schomaker, CMW21,
seems to dedicate all his time during our three-day
events to encourage us to become 21st Century Certified Watchmakers. For those of us already certified,
he motivates us to become even better at what we
For example, some of the classes we have held in
the last few years include:
• Three-day class on the Modular Chronograph,
February, 2011
• Three-day class on Precision Timing and
Adjustment, May, 2011
• Three-day Chronograph Lemania 1873/Ome-
ga 861, October, 2011
• Three-day Special High-Grade Ladies Caliber
R2135, March 2012
• Coming in October, 2012, we are planning a
special high-grade class on the men’s Caliber
R1575 (this will be a little different than the
class on the same caliber in 2010)
We have had so many great classes, but again, we
could not be successful without AWCI and Florida
state members’ help. We thank all of you for this.
have about 200 members when I started in 1998. Because of the aging of watchmakers and clockmakers
and some politics, we unfortunately lost members.
Around 2002, we seemed to lose another bunch,”
‘the Old-Timers,” as they called themselves. There
was also a lack of interest in updating one’s training.
I became more involved as Education Chairmen of
our chapter and we started offering better AWCI
classes, as well as clock classes through the year. I
drove everywhere I could in Florida to talk to watch
and clock shops so we could build the Florida chapter up again. When I became Acting President, we
only had about 8-10 members. We were also dealing
with the letter from Rolex that required watchmakers become certified. This turned out to be a tremendous incentive to boost our educational offering and course attendance. Now our membership is
back up to around 50 people. The FWCA staff and I
have been working hard to develop some of the best
professional classes outside of AWCI which can be
offered in a clean, convention-type setting.
We have not had any clock classes for two years because of the lack of interest, as only two members
would take advantage of the classes which Jeff Hamilton taught. We even offered free one-day courses,
but again, there was a lack of interest and it was very
costly for the chapter. I would like very much to resurrect the clock classes, however, so please call or
text me anytime at 941-586-3761 if you have suggestions for us.
Also, please keep an eye out for our upcoming convention on October 26, 27, 28th. It will be a good
one! There is an AWCI class and demo, a trade show,
as well as entertainment and great times. We want to
bring the jewelers closer to the watch and clock professional, so we have an agenda just for them, too.
If you live anywhere close to Florida, please become
a member today and join us at our convention. We
need your support!
Thank you,
Michael Taylor, CW21
President, FWCA
To give you a little history on our group, we used to
Horological Times September 2012
Tampa, FL
Florida Watch and
Clockmakers Association
Your Horological Source Since 1969
If you live in Florida, start planning now for the Annual
Convention! The Florida Watch and Clockmakers Association’s Annual Convention is being held October
26, 27 & 28 in Tampa, Florida this year. They are also
offering a special class on Servicing the R1575 Caliber
Including Staffing and Adjusting, taught by AWCI Instructor, Tom Schomaker, CMW21. Other new events
offered this year include:
This jumbo press includes 25 nylon dies used to
fit crystals and close snap-on case backs up to
54.5mm. Includes six rectangle shaped dies.
Retail Jewelers Program:
1. Battery Replacement – Avoiding Common Mistakes
2. Take-In Procedures and Indentifying Fakes
3. What is Involved in Waterproofing?
4. Get Involved, Get Educated and Be Profitable!
Location: Hilton Garden Inn, Tampa, Florida, October
26, 27, 28th
This Italian made tester far surpasses any other
tester in its class. Now you can test a case for
water pressure up to 10 atmospheres (333 feet).
It features a sealed lid construction that protects
the acrylic chamber from over tightening of the
lid screws. This will prevent those annoying
cracks in the top of the chamber. It also has
a self-contained hand pump for increasing air
pressure and a slow
air release valve to
help easily identify
the source of a leak.
Please contact us for more information and to RSVP:
Matt Hritz 941-993-0514 [email protected]
or Michael Taylor 941-586-3761
The Horological Association
of Virginia (HAV)
On November 4th, HAV will present a seminar on a clock constructed
entirely of wood—built completely
from scratch with no input from
clockmakers. Several HAV members
will work with the developer on accuracy issues. Come to give your input on this project. Other upcoming
events include:
November 18, 2012 - HAV Board Meeting, Ivy Creek
February 24, 2013 - HAV Board Meeting, Ivy Creek
May 3, 4, 5, 2013 - HAV convention in Roanoke,
The program will include Clock and Watch seminars—
more details to come. Contact Mike Creasey, President,
[email protected]
Available Online at
Jumbo Case Press
Stock #592.060
Calypso Waterproof Tester
1 BAR = 10 METERS,
1 BAR = 33 Ft,
1 ATM = 1 BAR
Prices subject to change without notice.
Phone Orders (800) 476-2715
Fax Orders (800) 476-8016
Email: [email protected]
Online Catalog:
Horological Times September 2012
affiliate chapter
Capital Area Watch &
Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG)
To RSVP or for more information, please contact
Secretary, Dean Ziegenbein at 952-322-4776 or via
e-mail: [email protected]
Will you be in Austin, Texas this
fall? Southwestern watch and
clock enthusiasts are invited to
join the Capital Area Watch &
Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG) in
Austin for their upcoming Affiliate Chapter meetings. Their next
few meetings are as follows:
September meeting - Dennis Warner, CW21
October - Mary Ellen Bell “Horological
November - David Arnold “TBD”
Join CAWCG to network, learn and socialize with
fellow horologists. Dinner: 5:00 PM – 6:00 PM, Program: 6:00 PM. Location: Pok-E-Jo’s Smokehouse,
2121 Parmer Lane (near Metric Blvd.) in Austin, Texas.
Please contact Jay Holloway,
Secretary, for more information:
[email protected].
a unique timepiece magazine 3 yrs/only $30
(6 issues)
AWCI Members Save $10!
Regular Subscription Rate $40.
Subscribers should visit,com
All payments must
be made via
Clockmakers Guild
Upcoming meetings for this very active affiliate chapter are:
October 4 - Clock brass for plates,
wheels and bushings,
by a University of
Minnesota Aeronauti
cal Materials
November 1 - Laser welding for
small parts repair and construction, by
Duane Tvenge, own
er of Jayandee
December 6 – Show-and-tell of
clocks from our
Clock-Building Class
Horological Times September 2012
Chelsea Clock
Unveils Rare
Collector Series
Over 80 Vintage Mechanical Clocks
from WWII U.S. Victory Ships Soon
to be Available
Chelsea Clock has reclaimed over 80 marine mechanical clocks, formerly installed on U.S. Victory
Ships built by the U.S. Maritime Commission during
World War II. These authentic military timepieces,
produced by Chelsea Clock for the U.S. government
in the 1940s, are in the process of being returned to
optimum working condition by Chelsea’s certified
repair and restoration technicians. As each original
piece is restored, it will be available for purchase on
the company’s site at
The Restoration Process
Over the coming months, Chelsea Clock technicians
will work to repair and restore each vintage military
timepiece. All 80-plus clocks will be disassembled
and ultrasonically cleaned. Any worn and broken
pieces will be repaired or replaced. And clock cases
will be revived, while taking special care to preserve
their vintage appearance. Each clock bears its original Chelsea Clock serial number, and will include information about the U.S. Victory Ship upon which it
sailed. All clocks will also carry a two-year warranty.
1940s Mechanical Military Clocks
While each vintage clock in this U.S. Victory Ship collection is unique—based on its specific history and
condition—all share some common features. All have
black phenolic (high-impact, shatterproof resin) cases and hinged locking bezels. All are key-wind mechanical timepieces and most feature 12E (time-only)
movements. A small number have 16E movements,
which include a second hand bit. In addition, each
displays 12-hour and 24-hour military time on either
a 6” black or white dial. A small number feature 8”
U.S. Victory Ships: A Brief History
In 1943, the U.S. Maritime Commission embarked
upon a program to develop a new type of emergency ship that would replace those lost to German submarines during the early part of WWII. Dubbed the
“Victory” ship, the new vessel was designed to be
faster than its predecessor, the Liberty ship.
The first Victory ship, the S.S. United Victory, was
built at Oregon Shipbuilding in Portland and delivered on February 28, 1944. A total of 531 Victories
were constructed by North American shipyards,
comprising 414 cargo ships and 117 attack transports.
Ninety-seven of the Victories were outfitted as troop
carriers; the others carried food, fuel, ammunition,
material and supplies.
While the lines of the Victory ship were not unlike
those of the Liberty, the propulsion was vastly superior. Liberty ships were powered by steam engines,
with a maximum speed of 11 knots, which made them
$4.00/ 20 pc PACK
$8.00/ 50 pc PACK
No min order. No small parts surcharge. Mailing $2 US/CAN, $5 Internatl.
Butterworth Clocks, Inc.
Before Restoration
After Restoration
5300 59th Ave. West Muscatine, IA 52761
Phone: 563-263-6759 Fax: 563-263-0428
E-mail: [email protected]
Horological Times September 2012
easy prey for submarines. Victories were propelled
by the more modern steam turbine, generating between 5,500 to 8,500 horsepower and providing
cruising speeds of up to 15 to 17 knots (approximately 18.5 miles per hour). The crew typically included
62 civilian merchant sailors and 28 naval personnel
(to operate defensive guns and communications
Chelsea Clock: A History of Military
Zenith El Primero
Striking 10th Watch
The First Caliber with Ultra-Accurate 1/10th of a Second Measurement and Display
The El Primero Striking 10th chronograph
embodies the return
of the Manufacture
Zenith to the technical values that have
forged the brand’s
success. The legendary El Primero caliber
was the world’s first
chronograph to beat at a rate
of 10 vibrations per
second. It is the most
sophisticated mechanical “motor.” The company states it has the
highest degree of precision, since the vast
majority of mechanical
movements beat at 8
vibrations per second
at best.
During the 1940s and beyond, Chelsea Clock supplied thousands of mechanical clocks to the U.S. Military for use aboard both Victory and Liberty ships,
as well as on submarines, destroyers, cruisers, battleships and aircraft carriers. In fact, in 1943, Chelsea
was one of the few companies presented with the
prestigious “E” award by the U.S. Government in recognition of manufacturing excellence for its production of military clocks. However, of the thousands of
Liberty and Victory ships that once graced the sea
only a small number remain today.
Today, Chelsea Clock continues to produce a vast
number of mechanical and quartz timepieces for
installation aboard U.S. Navy and Merchant Marine
ships, as well as on numerous military and peacekeeping vessels. Founded in 1897 in Chelsea, Massachusetts, Chelsea Clock is the oldest clock company
in America.
Right now, we have watchmaker tech guides
alphabetically through the letter “O” for watchmakers. Once this section is finished, we’ll start
posting guides for Clockmakers.
To get to the technical guides we have on go to:
- For Watchmakers/Clockmakers
- Click the blue bar: For The Watchmaker
- Scroll down to the heading: Technical Guides and Requests (click into this section)
- Choose: Click Here for Technical Guides and open desired folder. Download as needed.
Direct 1/10th of a Second Reading
While measuring such a short fraction of time is an
accomplishment in itself, making it readable is yet
another. To achieve this, Zenith has considerably
refined and improved the principle of jumping seconds. The chronograph hand makes a complete dial
rotation in 10 seconds and each of its steps precisely
indicates a 1/10th of a second against the 100 graduations engraved on the dial.
The perfectly balanced case accentuates the three
subdials, consisting of the two chronograph totalizers and the running seconds display arranged in a
V shape. The readability is guaranteed by three different shades on the subdials. The five-pointed star
shines at the “zenith” of this timepiece.
Horological Times September 2012
Dizzying Vital Statistics on the
El Primero 4052B Caliber
• Beats at a rate of 36’000 vibrations per hour,
meaning 864’000 a day or 315’360’000 beats
per year
• 326 Components, 31 jewels & 36’000 VpH 0
5 Hz
• Exclusive 1/10th of a second display:
the Chronograph hand makes 1 turn in
10 sec.
• Available in Limited Edition of Stainless Steel
or Rose Gold in a 42 mm Case diameter
• El Primero 4052 B, Automatic; Caliber: 13 1/4
Diameter: 30 mm; Height: 6.60 mm
• Power reserve: min. 50 hours
• Finishings: oscillating weight decorated with
“Côtes de Genève” pattern
• Case, Dial & Hands Material: 18-carat Rose
Gold or Stainless Steel
Diameter: 42 mm; Diameter opening:
37.10 mm
Crystal: Box sapphire glass with anti-reflec-
tion treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent Sapphire glass
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
• Hours and minutes in center; Small second at 9 o’clock; Date indicator at 6 o’clock
• 1/10th of a second chronograph:
– 60 min counter at 6 o’clock
– 60 seconds counter at 3 o’clock
– 1/10th of a second
indication by the
If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the
latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue
includes The Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces certain to be of interest to collectors and connoisseurs. CHRONOS includes interesting
stories about the world of automobiles and racing. Coverage of outstanding museum exhibits,
fashion trends, and travel stories all add to the enjoyment and satisfaction of this unique lifestyle
oOne Year (6 issues) $30.00
oTwo Years (12 issues) $ 55.00
oThree Years (18 issues) $80.00
Foreign Subscriptions
U.S. Dollars Only
oOne Year (6 issues) $48.00
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oThree Years (18 issues) $116.00
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Mail to:
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Horological Times September 2012
education &
My Thoughts on AWCI
Courses and the New
Advanced 21 Series
I began taking courses through AWCI when Tom
Schomaker, CMW21, first began teaching at AWCI,
and I took a class from him on Automatic watches.
Although I thought I was pretty sharp, this class increased my knowledge and improved my techniques
significantly. I learned about everything from new
tools to new procedures and technologies, and it
helped me tremendously in my business.
Even if you are a highly experienced watchmaker, I
encourage you to attend AWCI courses. You simply
cannot apply older techniques to the new models
that are coming out. These new watches are different in many ways, and you have to keep up-to-date
on modern repair techniques and new kinds of tools
and equipment.
Recently, I had been hearing about the new Advanced21 brand-specific courses in the HT, so I attended one a few months ago. It was extremely helpful. For me, these courses are an investment in my
business and they pay
off in the long run.
Wilbert Campos, CW21
Campos Watch Repair
Waco, Texas
New Swatch Group Products
Advanced 21 Class
November 5 – 9, 2012 Featuring the
Caliber 3303 Omega
Instructor, Dan Fenwick, Only 4
This class, taught by Dan Fenwick from The Swatch
Group US, will focus on “Swatch Group Products.”
Students will fully service the Frederic Piquet automatic chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch. This is the Swiss Lever version used by
Omega as caliber 3303. The new generation of Tissot Tactile products, including the T-Touch Expert
and the Sea-Touch will be introduced. Students will
work on the ETA 2894 modular chronograph from
Longines is requesting that watchmakers be trained
on the service of this commonly-exchanged chronograph module. Completion of this course will allow
the participant to purchase the specialized tool that
permits convenient assembly of the unit. As time
permits, students may also review Swatch Group
water testing/equipment, information packages and
the evolution of the Omega Co-Axial escapement.
advanced 21
Horological Times September 2012
education &
Brand and Caliber-Specific Training - 2012 / 2013
Advanced 21 Series classes (5 CEUs each) are offered only to CW21 and CMW21 AWCI members:
Sept 10 - 14 - Caliber R3035 - Advanced 21 Series
Oct 15 - 19 - Caliber R3035 - Advanced 21 Series
Nov 5 - 9 - Caliber 3303 Omega - Advanced 21 Series - This class will be taught by Dan Fenwick from
The Swatch Group US. Its focus will be on “Swatch Group Products”.
Students will fully service the Frederic Piquet
automatic chronograph with column wheel
and vertical clutch. Please read the details
on this course on opposing page.
Feb 11 - 5 - Advanced 21 Series - TBA
March 11 - 15 - Advanced 21 Series - TBA
5-day block: $875.00
AWCI Academy of Watchmaking
Sept 17-21 Modern Mechanical Chronograph 7750/7751 (5 CEUs)
Sept 24-28 Modern Automatic Watches (5 CEUs)
Jan 28 - Feb 1 Balance Staffing & Timing (5 CUEs)
Mar 4 - 8 Quartz Watch Repair & Testing (5 CEUs)
Mar 18-22 Basic Watch Repair
5-day block: $875.00
CW21 Exam Schedule - 2012
Oct 1-4 Dec 3-6 Feb 4 - 7 April 5 - 18 AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH
OSU Institute of Technology, Okmulgee, OK
AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH
AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH
Please visit the website for information on classes and exams.
We reserve the right to cancel a class if there are less than six participants signed up 30 days prior to the first day of class,
so we encourage you to wait before making travel or hotel arrangements until this deadline has passed. If in doubt, please
contact Daniela Ott at 866-367-2924, ext. 303.
TO REGISTER FOR CLASSES OR EXAMS, please call toll-free
1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303 or e-mail: [email protected].
Horological Times September 2012
Today, Facebook isn’t just a form of media for socializing on the internet. It can be used for that, of
course, but businesses worldwide are using Facebook for so much more. “Like what?” you may ask.
If you look closely at MyAWCI, it links you to articles
of interest, media coverage about our members, announcements about the Institute, job postings, features on new products—and much more.
Some Facebook stats for MyAWCI as of 8/25/12:
• Over 500 “Likes” (regular followers)
• Friends of fans: 182,589
(largest possible reach for our message)
• Largest # people reached in 1 week:
3,092 between 7/31-8/6/12
(there were numerous postings on the
convention at that time)
1. Our Facebook page is:
A place for AWCI to communicate about events,
promotions and classes. If you are on Facebook
and have “Liked” the AWCI Facebook page, you
will see that we used it all throughout 2012 to
promote the AWCI Annual Convention, which
was extremely well-attended this year. We also
use it to announce Affiliate Chapter events
which help them build attendance.
Facebook allows us to:
Publish photos, videos, updates, press releases, media coverage about AWCI and our members and Affiliate Chapters.
4. Facebook is:
A place with highly-targeted, affordable ads that
deliver a specific age, gender, geographic
audience, or an audience with a specific interest,
such as horology. By purchasing an ad here, a
business only pays for performance, but reaches many more viewers in the form of “impres-
sions.” AWCI has used inexpensive Facebook ads
to help sell our books and other items.
5. Most importantly, Facebook drives interested participants to AWCI:
We are engaging people on MyAWCI which drives them to our website and news blog, and often, to our e-mail and phones.
Is Facebook a different way to communicate with
people? Definitely. But a large part of the world is
on it. Did you know there are now over 1 BILLION
people using Facebook? AWCI must be an active
Facebook participant because our former, current
and new target audiences currently are—and will
be—on Facebook.
But maybe one of the best things you can say about
Facebook is that we can reach out to any audience
with any type of information. And unless we decide
to place a paid ad—Facebook is totally free. t
Facebook gives you:
A voice. AWCI members, management and
enthusiasts all have a voice. And through posts,
anyone can freely express ideas and opinions to
each other. It’s a forum where people often
elaborate on our topics, providing helpful
information and spreading the word to other
interested parties.
Horological Times September 2012
Please make a copy of this form or tear it out and mail it to: AWCI, 701 Enterprise Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45030
The President of AWCI will appoint committee members for fiscal year 2012-2013. AWCI relies heavily on its committees to establish and implement goals for the year. If you have time and talent to spare, consider volunteering
to serve. The committees listed below are those which are currently established in either the AWCI Constitution
or Bylaws. Please indicate the committee(s) for which you are qualified in the order of preference.
Please mark a number from 1 up to 11 in each box, with your desired choice(s). Please use #1 as your first
choice, #2 as your second choice and so on and so forth. Thank you:
Constitution & Bylaws Committee
Convention Committee
Finance Committee
Marketing Committee
Nominating Committee for AWCI Board
Honor Awards Committee
Horological Times Committee
Strategic Action Committee
Education Committee
Ethics Committee
Internet Forum Committee
Membership Number:
Zip Code:
Phone (Home):
Phone (Business):
E-mail (required):
Fax (optional):
Please give a brief explanation of your qualifications to serve on committee(s) selected:
Horological Times September 2012
questions &
by david christianson, cmw21, fawi
Can you shed any light on this pocket watch, which
has little in the way of identification?
Richard Bunkelmann
Kingman, Arizona
Your pocket watch is known as a Swiss railroad. I
cannot tell you who made your watch, but I can tell
you that it was finished from an ebauche (rough
movement) commonly used by Swiss, French and
other makers between 1883 and 1889. It has a cylinder escapement that was commonly mass-produced
and used in moderately-priced watches. Without
any identifying features or signatures, I would have
to guess that yours is either Swiss or French in origin.
As you may well know, the cylinder escapement was
invented by Thomas Tompion, perfected by his student, George Graham (1673-1751), and used by such
eminent makers as Julian Le Roy, Urban Jurgensen,
John Arnold, John Elliott and Abraham Breguet, all
using a ruby cylinder and a steel wheel. The cylinder
escapement found wide-spread use in the thin Lepine movements and was instrumental in watchmakers abolishing the fusee in favor of the going barrel
in watch movement design; albeit, using a steel cylinder and a steel wheel.
Les Echappement A Cylindre (1729-1950) is the premier book providing background to the manufacture,
workforce and methods of producing the cylinder in
the L’Haute-Doubs areas of France in the 19th century (the valley running parallel to the French side
of the Jura Mountains.) These mountains are famous
for watchmaking both in France and Switzerland.
According to Henry Fried’s review of this book (published in 1985 in the Horological Times), the French
produced millions of the cylinder escapements that
were used by makers in France, Switzerland and
Germany. Since this 1985 book covers the cylinder
escapement from 1729 to 1950, I would assume that
the last commercially-made cylinder escapement
was made in 1950. By the late 19th century, the cylinder escapements were mass-produced and were so
plentiful that they were used in watches of low-tomoderate quality, at best.
Send your Questions to Horological Times
701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030
[email protected]
866-367-2924 ext.307
Horological Times September 2012
Member, John Ingram, would like assistance in finding a source for a broken circuit board in a quartz Cuckoo
clock. There is no marking for the manufacturer. Does anyone recognize this clock? If so, please contact
Amy Dunn at AWCI: [email protected]
June 2011,
a z i n
m a g
an abroad
An Englishm
All available from our website
Horological Times September 2012
clock classes
Clock Repair, Making & Designing by Laurie Penman
Laurie Penman’s Correspondence Course has run since
1990. One-to-one tuition, 24/7 distance instruction and
help by Internet and Skype.
No time limit on individual courses. £550.
Classes in the gorgeous English countryside.
One student £800, Two £450 ea. Three £330 ea.
Mid-day meal included.
Details: [email protected]
Wheelcutting, indexing, grinding, centering microscope. All
attachments, slide compound, lever feed tailstock, sets of collets,
cutting tools and holders. 2 sets of wheelcutters, brass and steel
stock. Photos avail. 765-282-6786.
Order On Line 24/7
We inventory 1000’s
of keys, pendulums,
dials, hands, bezels &
dial pans, chime rods
& gongs, clock chain
& cable, cuckoo parts,
clock glass, glass
domes, fasteners,
verges & wheels,
barometer parts,
Atmos style tools &
material, ultrasonic
cleaners, mainsprings,
quartz & mechanical
movements, electric
movements, tools,
for sale
Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books & DVDs
by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Powell, TN 37849. Phone
Supplying original factory material for the Hamilton Model 21
Chronometer, Model 22 Deck Watch & Military 16 Size Watch
Models 23, 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much material for
the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. LARRY CRUTSINGER
P.O. Box 8514 Norfolk, VA 23503
757-650-9470 E-mail: [email protected]
DISCOVER THE SOURCE! in building a collection of clocks and
watches or finding horological parts and tools for the trade.
GORDON S. CONVERSE & CO. Consignments now accepted!
Including but not limited to calibers 201.001, 210.001, 950.001,
959.001. We also have parts for ETA, ESA, AS, FEF, FHF, UNITAS,
FELSA and other calibers.
[email protected] • (208) 676-8430
Patti, Gurster, Cary, Mint condition. Have been in my possession
for over 20 years. Pictures available, clocks are in NC. Must be
sold as set. Asking $5000, 336-469-9172.
products, batteries,
books, suspension
springs, clocks,
cleaning solutions,
lubricants, & more.
Box 12700 • Scottsdale, AZ 85267 • USA
Phone: 480-483-3711 • Fax:480-483-6116
[email protected] •
Our 172 page illustrated catalog #37 is free online
or only $5 in North America for a printed copy.
Dashto Inc
Established in 1974
Tom Mister
Virginia Beach, Va
Huge and ever-changing selection. Used and
new horological items. Sold by internet only
Check out our site: or
WE BUY AND TRADE ALSO: [email protected]
help wanted
Call or text me: 404-543-0329 Tammy, ATLANTA.
Leading jeweler and only authorized Rolex jeweler and repair
facility in Madison, WI., known for quality and philanthropy,
seeks Century 21 (CW21) Certified watchmaker. Offers competitive compensation and benefits. Madison enjoys a moderate
cost-of-living and was voted “One of the ten most livable cities
in the US.” Contact John Hayes: 608-257-3644,
[email protected]. EOE
Full-time Watchmaker Needed, South Houston, TX
CW21 certification required for luxury independent retail store
with competitive salary and benefits. Saturdays required. Email
resume to: [email protected] or call 281-332-8433
Time Lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 years
experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service company. Must have certification or at least 5
years experience in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche industry located in Topeka, KS. Send
resume and references to [email protected] or fax to
Looking for a clock repair person to work full time. Need
someone to do in-house repairs, as well as some house
calls. Busy shop works on all kinds of clocks, both Antique
and Modern. Need experience repairing all kinds of clocks.
Salary depends on level of experience. Call 760-480-6488.
Full time position for an experienced watchmaker to step
into well established position/retail location. Located in
Rhode Island. Must have experience with such brands as
Tag Heuer, Rolex, Omega, Patek, and Cartier. Contact us at
[email protected]
Watchmaker Wanted, Miami Beach, FL
Brera Group LLC, in Miami Beach, FL is seeking watchmaker to
perform thorough physical inspection, testing and diagnosis
of incoming watches for After Sales Service. The watchmaker
will perform all manner of repairs; maintenance, cleaning and
or overhauls on watches received at the After Sales Service
workshop and maintain a clean, neat, organized workshop,
including the work areas, equipment and tools. Apply at info@ or 305.604.6360.
Talented, Certified Watchmaker – Long Island, NY
H.L. Gross & Bro. Jewelers is a fifth-generation family
owned jewelry store located in Garden City, NY on Long
Island. We are currently building a new 5,000 sq foot
store where we will be moving that will feature a Rolex
Boutique as well as a certified Rolex repair center. We
are seeking a talented and certified watchmaker for a
full-time position in our store to handle all Watchmakerrelated responsibilities. Call 516-747-6666.
Watchmaker Wanted – New York City
A legendary watch repair business located in the heart
of New York City is seeking a watchmaker to work on all
major brands. Must be proficient in all phases of vintage
mechanical movements. Experience with ETA mechanical
movements preferred. Great opportunity to join a longestablished, fast-growing business. Grand Central Station
location, state-of-the-art equipment, very competitive
compensation. Contact Steve Kivel at stevekivel@yahoo.
com or 212-685-1689 x4.
Need Certified Watchmaker – Cranston, RI
Saltzman’s Watches is hiring full-time certified watchmaker to repair watches for certified after-sales service
centers and independent jewelers around the U.S. We
offer competitive salaries and benefits packages. The job
is in Cranston Rhode Island and is from Monday through
Friday. Contact: [email protected]
Great starting salary, Vernon Hills, IL. Contact: Jodie 224-715-5102.
Horological Times September 2012
help wanted
Watchmaker Needed - LIVE & WORK IN PARADISE
Little Switzerland is one of the largest Caribbean-based retailers
of fine jewelry and timepieces. We sell Breitling, Tag Heuer,
Omega, Cartier, Rado, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil, Movado
and more. Must have completed factory training and certification
by at least one of the following: WOSTEP, Breitling, Omega, Tag
Heuer of Cartier. Full watch service facility located in St. Thomas,
USVI. To apply, email resume to [email protected].
Experienced Watch or Clockmaker, Topeka, KS
Time lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 year experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service
company. Must have certification or at least 5 years experience
in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche
industry located in Topeka, KS. Send resume and references to
[email protected] or fax to 785-232-2603.
Clock Repair, CA
Looking for clock repairperson full time. Need someone to do
in-house repairs, as well as some house calls. This is a busy shop
working on all kinds of clocks, both Antique and Modern. Need
someone with experience repairing all kinds of clocks. Salary
depends on level of experience 619-884-6488.
Certified Watchmaker, Richboro, PA
Time After Time, Inc., a Philadelphia-region Watch Retailer
is looking for a certified watchmaker.
•Complete Services (Mechanical, Quartz, Automatic,
Chronograph and Movements with Complications)
• Maintenance Services • Battery Changes
• Crystal Replacement • Diagnosis • Quick Services
• Dismantling • Maintain Productivity Goals
• Must have skills to service all types of watches from
basic mechanical and quartz movements on.
Compensation is determined by experience. Position is
based out of our Richboro, PA office. Contact: 215-802-7711
or [email protected]
Repair | Restoration
Opening for CW21 in Ocala, FL
A professional watch repair business located in Ocala,
Florida is seeking a CW21 watchmaker to work on Rolex
watches and all major brands. Must be proficient in all
phases of vintage mechanical movements. Min. 5 years
experience with a ORJ preferred. Experience with ETA
mechanical movements also preferred. Great opportunity
to join a long-established, fast-growing business. We
have state-of-the-art equipment and will supply you with
an apartment. Contact: [email protected]
situations wanted
Experienced seeking full time permanent situation.
For more information contact AWCI at: [email protected],
866-367-2924, ext. 307.
CW21 Seeking Full-Time in Midwest
CW21 with 14 years experience is seeking full-time position
preferably in the Midwest, PA or Western NY. Contact John:
724–272–8703 | 800 284 1778
quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet
positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to:
KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032;
(253) 852-5125
ATMOS Service/Repair
Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor
314-968-1010/877-437-1774, Clockmaster, Inc. – Robert Good
2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. St. Louis, Missouri 63144
Reconstruction of watch cases, bands (gold and two tone),
antique mountings, welding, cracked or broken clock arbors,
hands and other metal parts. All aspects of jewelry repair.
Joel Lefaive (520) 579-8668
108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513
888-363-9510 • 540-SERVICE
Porcelain Dial Restoration
Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock
Platform Escapement Repair
Atmos Parts & Service
400-Day Clock Repair
Larry Blanchard, CMW21
At Palmer’s Jewelry
101 East Sycamore St., Kokomo, IN 46901
Phone (800) 207-1251 • Fax (765) 457-8517
E-mail: [email protected]
Continuing with service of tuning fork Accutron, vintage
American and fine Swiss watches.
Kundo Coil / Electric Clock Service
Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™
Call Us or Visit
Large Supply of Watch Movements &
Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines
1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060
Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off
Service/Sales of Timing and Cleaning Machines
Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster
Over 14 years experience
Quick repairs & reasonable prices
Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or [email protected]
30 years experience
Horology School Graduate
Please contact John
[email protected]
Clock and music box - All sizes.
Custom made. Brass gear blanks.
Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering)
Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected]
All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates
Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and
505 Electric watches. René Rondeau, P.O. Box 391,
Corte Madera, CA 94976, Phone (415) 924-6534
Watch Parts Fabrication:
I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to modern.
MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950
We will install our patent pending ButterBearings™ in your chain
wound movement. These bearings reduce friction by over 90%
and come with a lifetime warranty.
For details contact: Butterworth Clocks, Inc.
5300 59th Ave. W., Muscatine IA 52761 tel 563.263.6759
fax 563.263.0428 email [email protected]
Quartz Conversions
Diamond Dial Conversions
Emblem & Name Personalization
Write for Brochures
Horological Times September 2012
P.O. BOX 970
(937) 382-4535
wanted to buy
Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Breitling, Audemars,
Tudor and others. Modern or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
Payout: $60/lb. and up for used silver oxide batteries. Free
secured shipping & pickup. Payment issued immediately. You
as tax write off. For details contact: [email protected]
800-764-7458 •
Buying Rolex crowns, crystals and material,
new stock only. Also buying Rolex watches,
bracelets and movements any age.
Call Paul at 978-256-5966
or e-mail [email protected]
Entire Watch Collections
Scrap Watchbands
Gold-Filled Cases & Scrap
Gold, Silver & Platinum Scrap
Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts
Paying for Valjoux 69,72,88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 $300,
Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Movado 90,95 $300.00. Also
buying high-grade movements and parts. Dean Sarnelle,
25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401, 1-866-877-8164,
[email protected].
Call Toll Free 1-800-208-2608
Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Le Coultre
Vacheron - AP - Etc.
Specialty Metals
Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals,
Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books,
Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING!
Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
Buy - Sell - Trade
We want most major brands. Also buying high-end
jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684
Top prices paid
for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold
fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment
return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN
METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC
29401. Established 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073
Paying $20 each. Must have good coils/hairsprings. Wornout contacts okay. René Rondeau, PO Box 391, Corte Madra,
CA 94976. [email protected].
Visit our website for more information
2490 Black Rock Tpke.
Fairfield, CT 06825
203-366-2500 - Local
800-884-7966 - Fax
[email protected]
Member: Jewelers Board of Trade
Buying Gold-Plated Watchbands $20 lb. & Up!
Gold-Filled-Even More!
Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired).
[email protected] •
Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have
helped over 200 watchmakers in the last 15 years to dispose of
their accumulations. When you’re really ready to sell, we’re
ready to buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327-3306. Ask
for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected]
Repair | Restoration
lb—And UP!
Used Silver Oxide Batteries
Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired).
[email protected] •
We also fit glass crystals to
Openface, hunting, and English
chain drive watches.
Complete watches, dials,
movements, case springs for sale
G F Specialties
P.O. Box 170216
Milwaukee, WI 53217
We are Factory Authorized Service for:
We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate
recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience.
190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903
Used Equipment Bought & Sold
For Information
(415) 479-8960
HT Classifieds Work For:
“We had a wonderful response
to the [recruitment] ad.”
Human Resources,
Ads are payable in advance $1.10 per word, $1.50 per word in bold type.
Classified display ads are $47.50 per column inch, 2¼” wide. Color an
additional $15.00. Copy must be received 30 days in advance.
Horological Times
701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030
Toll Free 866-367-2924, ext. 307
Phone (513) 367-9800 • Fax (513) 367-1414
E-mail: [email protected] •
Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings
for readers to recognize specifics in your ad.
All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates
Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off | 800 284 1778
Contact: Amy Dunn, 866-367-2924, ext. 307,
[email protected]
Horological Times September 2012
Manuel Yazijian, CMW21: President
[email protected]
Wes Grau, CMW21: Vice President
Affiliate Chapter Director
[email protected]
Henry Kessler: Treasurer
[email protected]
David Douglas, CW21: Secretary
[email protected]
Immediate Past President
Dennis Warner, CW21: President
[email protected]
Tom Nesbit, CW21
[email protected]
Gene Bertram, CC
[email protected]
Fred White, CMW21
[email protected]
Michal Blaszczyk, CW21
[email protected]
Ron Landberg, CW21
[email protected]
Borel & Co., Jules
(816) 421-6110
inside front cover
Butterworth Clocks, Inc.
(563) 263-6759 ...................................... 25
Cas-Ker Co.
(513) 674-7700 ....................................... 17
(303) 296-1600....................................... 27
Clocks Magazine
011 44 131 331 3200 ............................... 33
Energizer 16
Global Battery Buyers
(855) 243-2724 ....................................... 14
Greiner Vibrograf ............................... 19
Livesay’s, Inc.
(813) 229-2715 ........................................ 23
Magnum Power Products, Inc.
(480) 205-2193 ...................................... 24
(800) 527-0719 ..................... back cover
Watch Around ............................... 24
Witschi Electronic Ltd.
011 32 352 05 00 ...................................... 9
Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w. c r t i m e . c o m
Phone: 800-541-5494
Fax: 800-341-8373
w w w . c r t i m e . c o m
Electra Steam
Jason Ziegenbein, CW21
REC Director
[email protected]
Terry Kurdzionak
IAB Director
[email protected]
*Robert F. Bishop
*James H. Broughton
Fred S. Burckhardt
Alice B. Carpenter
David A. Christianson
George Daniels
Wes Door
*Henry B. Fried
*Josephine F. Hagans
*Orville R. Hagans
Ewell D. Hartman
*Harold J. Herman
J.M. Huckabee
Gerald G. Jaeger
Jack Kurdzionak
*Benjamin Matz
*Robert A. Nelson
*Hamilton E. Pease
Archie B. Perkins
Antoine Simonin
William O. Smith, Jr.
Milton C. Stevens
*Marvin E. Whitney *Deceased
Movado Group Inc.
AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their
ongoing support of the Institute and the industry.
Simon Golub & Sons, Inc.
SWISStime care, Inc.
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
701 Enterprise Dr.
Harrison, OH 45030
Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI • 513-367-9800
Fax: 513-367-1414
[email protected] •
Horological Times September 2012

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