GOurMeT TOur OF LIGurIa WITh LucIO GaLLeTTO

Transcripción

GOurMeT TOur OF LIGurIa WITh LucIO GaLLeTTO
M a r c h – J u n e 2 014
GOURMET TOUR OF LIGURIA
WITH LUCIO GALLETTO
Exploring the food, drinks and produce
of a new area is half the fun of travelling,
isn’t it? In fact, for many it’s the reason for
travelling! But it takes a lot of research to
make the most of your precious holiday
time and find out-of-the-way, authentic
food experiences. Wouldn’t it be wonderful
to explore a great food destination with a
guide who knows the area well, who can
take you to farms and artisanal producers
that don’t normally open their doors to the
public, who knows the perfect little spot
for an afternoon aperitivo and then shows
you what to do with all that amazing new
produce so that together you whip up a
delicious dinner to enjoy with lovely local
wines. Sounds like your ideal holiday?
Then join Lucio Galletto from Lucio’s
Italian Restaurant in Paddington on
a tour of his home region, Liguria, for
just 10 guests. We’ll be staying in Lucio’s
hometown, the fishing village of Bocca di
Magra, on the Italian Riviera at the mouth
of the Magra River, with the spectacular
Apuan Alps as a backdrop. We’ll spend our
mornings (and some entire days) exploring
the area, and afternoons cooking Ligurian
specialties (little known outside the region)
at Lucio’s family’s beachside restaurant
just across the road from our hotel (or just
relaxing if you prefer).
Lucio’s brother will take us mushroom
foraging in the nearby hills and the
restaurant’s chef will teach us to make pizza
in the family’s wood-fired oven. We’ll visit
the still-working Fantiscritti marble quarry
in Carrara, where Michelangelo personally
selected his pieces of the mountain, lunch
in little undiscovered bays, shop in local
markets, visit artisans, chefs and ancient
ruins, with Lucio as our guide. Highlights
include the historic and elegant town of
Sarzana, whose cathedral holds the oldest
~ Lucio Galletto ~
known painted Italian crucifix (dated
1138); an afternoon among the gorgeous
shops of Portofino; a visit to the last
maker of Corzetti stamps in Italy (used
for printing designs on local coin-shaped
pasta); a stroll through Forte Dei Marmi,
absolutely the best market in the area for
everything from cashmere to cheesecloth,
lace to lycra; Pietrasanta, ‘the city of artists’,
a commune town of international artists
working in bronze and marble; and of
course the World Heritage listed Cinque
Terra and Porto Venere.
$9,500/person includes all
accommodation, most meals and
beverages, transport, entry fees and
activities for 12 days and 11 nights
(29 September-10 October 2014),
plus transfers to/from nearest airport or
railway station (airfares not included).
Email [email protected]
or call 9004 1111 to register your
interest now.
WHAT’S HAPPENING AT SSS
We’re in for an exciting few months
of cooking with an all-star cast of
guest chefs, including Giovanni Pilu
(Pilu at Freshwater), Shaun Presland
(Saké), Christine Manfield, Eugenio
Maiale (A Tavola), Nathan Johnson
(Felix Bistro), Mark Best (Marque),
Andy Evans (Spice Temple), Mark Jensen
(Red Lantern), Frank Camorra (MoVida),
Phil Wood (Rockpool), Dan Hong
(Mr Wong), Louis Tikram (Longrain),
Jonathan Barthelmess (The Apollo) with
Janni Kyritsis, David Thompson (nahm,
Bangkok), Clayton Wells (Momofuku
Seiōbo), Lucio Galletto (Lucio’s Italian
Restaurant), Alessandro Pavoni (Ormeggio
at the Spit), Stefano Manfredi (Balla) and
Kumar Mahadevan (Aki’s).
Looking for something different to do
on a Friday night? Check out our new
Mystery Box Challenge (11 April) for
a fun evening of competition, cooking,
eating and socialising. Bring your own team
of 4-6 people, or join up with some new
foodie friends on the night to see who can
create the most impressive dish from the
mystery box of ingredients. Or, if you’re
inclined to reach for your phone or camera
before your knife and fork, posting your
culinary delights on social media for all to
enjoy … learn a few tricks of the trade from
professional photographer and social media
veteran, Franz Scheurer, at the new Food
Photography Workshop (16 May).
And, with so many classes to choose from,
cooking class gift certificates are the perfect
gift for the hard-to-shop-for-foodies in
your life!
Happy cooking,
Roberta Muir, Manager Sydney Seafood
School & FISHline
~ fe a t u re s p e c i e s ~
PRAWNS
Found from Greenland to the tip of South America, Prawns are one
of the most versatile and widely available seafoods in the world.
Storing
Store cooked or raw prawns in an airtight
container in the fridge for up to 3 days,
and frozen for up to 3 months below -18˚C.
Peel them just before using. Do not refreeze
thawed prawns.
There are hundreds of different species,
living mostly in salt, or brackish, waters,
with a few freshwater varieties found in
rivers and lakes. They range from the tiny
specimens used for making prawn paste to
giants as large as small lobsters. When raw
(called ‘green’), they vary in colour from
translucent through grey-green to bright
red, though, as with all crustaceans, they
take on shades of reddish brown to bright
orange when cooked.
The most common commercial prawns in
Australia are:
• Tiger Prawns (Penaeus monodon,
P.esculentus, P.semisulcatus) are the most
common aquaculture prawns in Australia.
Their distinct striped shells give them
their name, and shell colour can vary
from black/green (P.monodon), to brown
(P.esculentus) or green (P.semisulcatus).
• K ing Prawns (Melicertus latisulcatus,
M.plebejus, M.longistylus) have a cream to
light brown body and are generally sold
larger than tiger prawns. The legs and
tailfin are a distinctive bright blue in the
Western variety (M.latisulcatus) and
cream in the Eastern (M.plebejus).
• Redspot (M.longistylus), often sold
smaller than the others, have a distinctive
red spot on each side of their body shell.
• Banana Prawns (Fenneropenaeus
indicus, F.merguiensis) caught off northern
Australia, are translucent to yellow in
colour with tiny dark spots.
• School Prawns (Metapenaeus macleayi,
M.dalli, M.bennettae, M.insolitus), are
mostly trawled or netted in estuaries
south of Noosa. Bay Prawns
(M.bennettae and M.insolitus) with
translucent brown to green speckled
bodies and green tips on their tail fans
are sometimes marketed separately.
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prawns will toughen if reheated; already
cooked prawns are good for salads,
sandwiches, or eaten cold with a dipping
sauce. In cooked or raw prawns look for
firmly attached heads and tight, firm shells
with a good sheen. There shouldn’t be any
blackening (a sign of oxidation), and they
should have a pleasant ‘fresh sea’ smell. Buy
1kg of prawns in the shell to get about 450g
of meat.
~ Cooked Tiger Prawns ~
Other prawns occasionally seen in retail
shops or harvested recreationally in various
parts of Australia include:
• Endeavour Prawns (Metapenaeus
endeavouri, M.ensis), have a pale brown
to pink body with either a bright blue
(M.endeavouri) or bright red (M.ensis)
edge to their tail fins. Caught off the
northern coast of Australia, they too
can be sold as School Prawns.
• Scarlet Prawns (Aristaeopsis
edwardsiana) are a by-catch of deep-sea
trawling. Dark red, even when raw, they
have very firm flesh, almost the texture
of lobster, and are highly prized.
• Royal Red (Haliporoides sibogae), trawled
mostly off the south coast of NSW,
are pink to red even when raw, with a
thin shell. Usually sold frozen as they
deteriorate very quickly, they’re an
inexpensive alternative if prawn meat is
to be chopped or minced.
Buying
Prawns are highly perishable in their raw
state and so are usually frozen or boiled
at sea or as soon as they are harvested.
Buy green (raw) prawns to cook, as cooked
Cooking & Serving
When peeling green prawns, break the head
off, hold the body straight and gently pull
the protruding end of the digestive tract, it
will usually come out in one go. If it breaks
off, use a thin skewer to hook it out from
the back of the prawn, or make a small
incision along the back and remove it. In
cooked prawns, the back has to be cut open
to remove the digestive tract. Very small
prawns are sometimes fried and eaten
shell and all, while larger prawn heads are
sometimes cooked on a barbecue until very
crisp (teppanyaki-style).
Prawns require very little cooking and
will continue to cook in the residual
heat once they are removed from the
pan; so undercook rather than overcook
them. Versatile prawns are popular in
almost every cuisine and are suitable
for most cooking styles. Tomalley, the
coral or mustard in prawn heads, adds a
concentrated prawn flavour when cooked
and gives the distinctive taste to bisques
and shellfish reductions.
Prawn Talk
The edible body of the prawn is sometimes
referred to as the ‘tail’. ‘Butterflied’ prawns
(also called prawn cutlets) are peeled,
with tail intact, split down the back and
flattened out. There is some confusion
between the words ‘prawn’ and shrimp’.
In the United States ‘shrimp’ is the common
term, even for large specimens often
referred to as ‘jumbo shrimp’. In Britain,
‘shrimp’ is used for smaller specimens
while ‘prawn’ refers to the larger ones.
In Australia, ‘prawn’ is used for all sizes.
DEEP-FRIED CHILLI SALT
SCHOOL PRAWNS
Tiny little school prawns, small enough to eat head
and all, are a real treat. Of course this recipe can
also be used for larger peeled prawns, chunks of fish,
strips of squid, scallops or even mussels removed
from their shells. Add more chilli if you feel like
a little more heat!
SERVES 6 AS AN ENTRÉE
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
600g small green school prawns
2 cups tapioca starch
Salt flakes, to serve
Lime wedges, to serve
~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~
PRAWN SALAD WITH CHILLI,
CUCUMBER & WATERCRESS
You don’t even need to turn the stove on to make this
quick and delicious salad, and it can be prepared a few
hours before you want to serve it – perfect for summer
entertaining. Bugs, marron, redclaw, rocklobsters and
yabbies are also great served this way.
SERVES 6 AS AN ENTRÉE
700g large cooked prawns, peeled and deveined, tails intact
½ long red chilli, halved, seeded, cut into thin strips
2 small cucumbers, halved, seeded and finely sliced
¼ cup mint leaves
1 cup watercress sprigs
2 tablespoons roasted unsalted peanuts, finely chopped
Chilli Salt
¼ cup salt flakes
¼ cup chilli powder
Make Chilli Salt: crush salt and combine well with chilli powder.
Heat oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 190˚C.
Combine tapioca starch and Chilli Salt in a plastic bag. Add
prawns and shake to coat well. Tip into a fine sieve and shake off
the excess mixture.
Lower the prawns into the oil in batches and fry for 30-60
seconds, until they change colour and begin to float.
Drain on paper towel and sprinkle with salt flakes.
Serve immediately with lime wedges.
Wine suggestion: Everyone loves Champagne and G.H.
Mumm Brut Rosé – with its beautiful colour, perfect tiny
bubbles and dry, fruit-forward flavours – lifts this fun dish to
a whole new level. www.ghmumm.com
Asian Dressing
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon palm sugar
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon very finely chopped lemongrass, white part only
2 golden shallots, finely sliced
3 small red chillies, seeded and roughly chopped
Make the Asian Dressing: combine all ingredients and set aside.
Add prawns to the dressing. Add the chilli, cucumber, mint,
watercress and two-thirds of the peanuts. Gently toss to mix well.
Arrange on serving plates or a large platter and sprinkle with the
remaining peanuts.
Wine suggestion: This dish needs acid and a touch of
sweetness and Grosset Alea Riesling is a wonderful match for
the heat and saltiness … an intriguing wine for an intriguing
dish. www.grosset.com.au
~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~
3
COMPETITION
TELL US WHAT YOU THINK
FOR A CHANCE TO WIN!
CONNECT WITH US ON YOUR FAVOURITE SOCIAL
MEDIA AND GO INTO A DRAW TO WIN A SYDNEY
SEAFOOD SCHOOL PACKAGE WORTH OVER $350
We no longer just quietly enjoy experiences … these days
everyone’s letting the world know what they’re up to on
Facebook, Twitter, google+, Instagram, Pinterest, Trip Advisor,
Findery, Yelp, Four‑square... and more.
Whatever’s your social media of choice, we’d love to hear
from you – post a photo, a review or a comment about Sydney
Seafood School on one (or more) of your favourite social media
then send an email to [email protected] to let
us know and you’re in the running to win!
While you’re there, remember to ‘like’ us, ‘follow’ us
or ‘check in’.
Connect with us on Social Media between 1 December 2013
and 30 June 2014 and go into the monthly draw to win a $310
Sydney Seafood School gift voucher and an autographed copy
of the Sydney Seafood School Cookbook (RRP $49.99)
Like us at www.facebook.com/SydneySeafoodSchool
Follow us on Twitter @Seafood_School
Terms and Conditions: 1. Sydney Seafood School Social Media Promotion entry is open to all Australian residents. 2. To participate in this promotion and be eligible to win entrants must post a comment or photo
about Sydney Seafood School on a social media site and then notify the School by email to [email protected] between midnight on 01 December 2013 and midnight on 30 June 2014. 3. There is no entry
fee involved in participating in this competition, but all participants must be 13 years of age or older. 4. Prizes will be drawn at Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009 (first draw 13/01/14 and then
first business day of EACH month until end of promotion). The winner will be notified by email on the same day. 5. Promoter is Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009. Phn +61 2 9004 1100. ABN
24 064 254 306. 6. You must ensure that all care is taken when posting a comment or photo. An entry is not deemed to have been received unless an email is received to notify Sydney Seafood School and the post is
visible on the nominated site. 7. Sydney Fish Market accepts no responsibility for any entry not received by Sydney Fish Market or delays in the delivery of entries due to technical disruptions or for any reason. All
entries are deemed to be received at the time of receipt NOT time of transmission by the entrant. 8. Sydney Fish Market reserves the right to keep all entries confidential. 9. Employees of Sydney Fish Market and
their families are not eligible to enter. 10. The prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash. Authorised under NSW Permit No LTPS/13/01874.
FAQ – Answers to Frequently Asked Questions
Check the FAQ pages in the FISHline section of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and if you can’t find the answer there,
email your question to [email protected]
What’s the best way to carry my
seafood home?
Seafood will stay fresh longer if it’s kept cold.
Bring a chiller bag or esky with an ice brick in
it when shopping for seafood, or at least ask
your fishmonger to wrap a small bag of ice up
with your purchase. FISHline insulated carry
bags are available from Sydney Seafood School
for $5.
How do I get the skin on pan-fried fish
really crisp, like they do in restaurants?
First pat the skin with paper towel to make
sure it’s as dry as possible. Then sprinkle
it with salt (and pepper if you like, some
chefs say a thin dusting of plain flour helps
too). Next, get your pan really hot, add a
small amount of oil then put the fish in
4
skin-side down and gently press with an
egg slice to prevent the skin curling. Reduce
heat to medium-high and cook the fish
three-quarters of the way through on the
skin-side, you should start to see the flesh
turning opaque around the edges of the fillet,
indicating that it’s cooked through, then
turn the fish over to just finish cooking (1-2
minutes). Don’t be afraid of a hot pan and
resist the urge to turn the fish too soon, and
you’ll have crisp skin like the professionals.
Another trick chefs often use is to cook the
fish skin-side down in an oven-proof frying
pan for a minute or 2, then put the pan into
a 200°C oven for 5 minutes or so until just
cooked through … this way there’s no need to
turn the fish over at all and the skin protects
the delicate flesh from the heat of the pan.
My seafood smells ‘fishy’, is it OK to eat?
In many ways your nose is the best
indicator of whether or not seafood is
fresh. Only stale seafood smells ‘fishy’,
fresh seafood has little aroma except
for a slight fresh ‘sea’ smell. Other signs
of freshness include bright shiny skin
or shell, and in the case of fillets and
steaks, bright lustrous flesh that doesn’t
look dried out or discoloured. If there’s a
bloodline, it should be bright red rather
than dark or browning. Some people
say bright eyes are a good indicator, but
eyes can go cloudy if they come into
contact with ice, so cloudy eyes alone
don’t indicate that the fish is stale. Most
importantly ‘the nose knows’, if it smells
‘fishy’, it’s past its prime!
~ classic dish ~
LAKSA LEMAK
Most laksas are more like a meal than a soup, due to the
noodles, and are popular for breakfast, lunch, dinner or
as a filling snack. Seafood is the most common variety,
but vegetarian and chicken versions are also popular.
Traditionally, in Singapore at least, laksa is eaten with
a Chinese soup spoon and a pair of chopsticks.
SERVES 6
~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~
LAKSA
Laksa is a perfect example of Nonya cuisine, which
evolved through the marriage of the local Straitsborn women of Singapore, Malacca and Penang to
Chinese merchants who settled in this region from
the 15th century onwards.
In the 19th century, British colonists encouraged another influx
of Chinese immigrants to work on plantations, in tin-mining and
as traders and many of these men also married local women. Over
time a new race, called the Peranakan (literally ‘descendants’ in
Malay), was formed. The women became known as Nonyas, and
the men as Babas.
The Nonya women adapted traditional Chinese cooking methods
such as stir-frying and steaming and combined their familiar curry
pastes (made by blending herbs, spices and aromatic vegetables)
with the typically Chinese ingredients that their husbands brought
with them (such as noodles, soy sauce and tofu) to create a unique
cuisine found only in this region. With the addition of local produce
such as coconut milk and seafood, a delicious soup was born.
As with all traditional dishes, there are as many varieties of laksa as
there are cooks. There are however some distinct regional variations:
• Laksa Lemak (see recipe at right) originated in Singapore and
around the Straits of Malacca, which separate Malaysia from
Sumatra. Lemak means ‘creamy’ and this rich coconut milkbased soup is the version best known in Australia.
• Penang Laksa, also called Laksa Assam, from the northern state
of Penang near the Thai border, has a strong sour element from
tamarind and doesn’t contain coconut milk.
• Johor Laksa, from the southern state of Johor, also uses
tamarind instead of lime as a souring agent, but does contain
coconut milk.
If you enjoy Singaporean food, check out our Chilli Crab classes
held each month. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au
or call 9004 1111 to book.
½ cup vegetable oil
1 cup laksa paste
1.5 litres chicken stock
750ml coconut milk
450g fish balls (see notes)
30 medium green prawns, peeled and deveined
300g flat rice noodles, soaked in boiling water for
10-15 minutes, until soft
6 deep-fried tofu puffs, shredded
6 green onions, sliced finely on the diagonal
1½ cups bean sprouts, tailed
3 limes, juiced
¼ cup fish sauce
1 bunch Vietnamese mint, to serve
1 bunch coriander, to serve
1 Lebanese cucumber, deseeded and shredded
Sambal oelek, to serve
1½ limes, cut into wedges, to serve
Heat oil in a wok.
Add laksa paste and fry for 5-10 minutes, until oil floats to the
top and it smells aromatic.
Add chicken stock and coconut milk, bring to the boil, reduce
heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add fish balls, simmer for 2 minutes then add prawns, increase
heat and return to the boil then remove from heat. Cover to
keep warm.
Divide drained rice noodles between 6 deep bowls, add tofu,
green onions and bean sprouts.
Stir half the lime juice and fish sauce through the soup, taste
and add more if needed.
Ladle soup into bowls and top with Vietnamese mint,
coriander, cucumber, sambal oelek and lime wedges.
Notes: Use a good commercial laksa paste (such as Ayam or
Charmaine Solomon’s) or make your own by processing 3 red
onions, the white part of 3 stalks of lemongrass, 12 candlenuts,
6 cloves garlic, a grated 4cm piece of galangal, 1½ tablespoons
grated turmeric, 12 dried long red chillies (deseeded and soaked),
¾ tablespoon blachan, 3 tablespoons ground coriander and
½ teaspoon salt into a coarse paste. Fish balls are available from
the chiller cabinet of Asian grocers.
Wine suggestion: This soup has very complex flavours
and Tower Estate 2013 Moscato, with its fresh, zesty,
slightly sweet, effervescence complements it perfectly.
www.towerestatewines.com
5
~ c h e f p ro f i l e ~
GIOVANNI PILU
from PILU AT FRESHWATER
Giovanni Pilu was born in Sardinia
and arrived in Australia in 1992
full of enthusiasm and passion
for the unique flavours of his
homeland. He believes Sardinian
cooking should involve simple
ingredients, prepared with
minimum fuss, allowing the full
flavour of the ingredients to speak
for themselves.
At his first restaurant, Cala Luna in Mosman,
which he opened in 1997, he presented
a broad Italian menu, slowly introducing
Sydney diners to Sardinian specialties such
as fregola (toasted, couscous-like pasta) and
bottarga (air-dried mullet roe). Since opening
Pilu at Freshwater in 2004, he’s expanded
his Sardinian repertoire, cooking more of
the food that’s in his blood and close to his
heart, and even offering a 6-course Sardinian
tasting menu with matched Sardinian wines.
Rugged, isolated, untamed Sardinia has
two distinct cuisines: coastal and inland.
Many Sardinians have traditionally lived in
the mountains as shepherds and farmers,
and so, unusually for island dwellers, their
cooking has been based on meat (pork, lamb
and wild game), sheep’s cheese (pecorino)
and fregola. The coastal cuisine has been
influenced by many invaders, from the
Phoenicians, through Carthaginians,
Greeks, Romans, Genovese and Catalans,
to the modern Italians, all of whom brought
with them different ways of preparing
the island’s abundant seafood harvest.
Pilu at Freshwater, a beautifully restored
heritage-listed weatherboard beach house
overlooking Freshwater Beach in Sydney’s
north, is an idyllic setting for food from this
Mediterranean island. Large windows let
natural light in and allow diners to gaze out,
while a light bright colour scheme adds to the
relaxed, beach house feel.
Over the years, Giovanni’s cooking has
evolved from a simple presentation of
Sardinian classics, such as baked whole
baby snapper with vernaccia wine and green
SERVES 6 AS AN ENTRÉE
700g cuttlefish, cleaned
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
1 small brown onion, finely diced
30g semi-sun-dried cherry tomatoes, chopped
½ cup basil leaves
½ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
160g fregola
Salt flakes, to taste
Cut cuttlefish hood into 2cm dice and cut
tentacles into 2cm lengths.
~ Giovanni Pilu ~
olives (still on the menu) to include more
modern techniques and presentations.
A broth (‘brodo’ in Italian) made by infusing
pecorino to extract it’s sweet, nutty, cheesy
flavour is combined with hand-rolled fregola
pasta, smoked pumpkin, chestnuts and
lemon thyme, to create a superb dish that is
at once distinctively Sardinian (the pecorino,
fregola and chestnuts) and decidedly modern
(a cheese soup? smoked pumpkin?). More
and more of this skilful blending of the
old and the new is appearing on the Pilu
menu. The focus on previously unknown
Sardinian beverages is also an exciting point
of difference, with the restaurant exclusively
importing many of the 70 or so Sardinian
wines they serve, as well as offering a range
of artisanal Sardinian beers.
But changes are gradual and subtle and the
brief, frequently-changing menu manages
to keep both traditionalists and innovators
happy, offering a more-or-less classic
‘porcetto arrosto’, slow-roasted suckling pig,
served on the bone with scented apple sauce,
alongside a more modern scampi crudo
with pickled cauliflower, cime di rapa and
horseradish cream. And come dessert time,
there’s ‘seadas ripiena di ricotta’, traditional
Sardinian deep-fried pastries filled with
ricotta and sultanas drizzled with warm
bitter honey, for those after the comfort
of the familiar, and chestnut mousse with
crumble, pistachio sponge and pumpkin
gelato for those seeking a little more
excitement.
Visit www.piluatfreshwater.com.au
for more information.
On The Beach, Moore Rd, Freshwater NSW 2096, (02) 9938 3331
Lunch: Tue-Sun 12-3pm; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-9pm
See Giovanni at Sydney Seafood School on 15 March.
Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.
6
SEPIA E FREGOLA
by GIOVANNI PILU
Heat oil in a frying pan, add cuttlefish and
cook over a medium heat for 15 minutes,
stirring occasionally.
Add onion, tomato, basil and parsley and cook
for 5 minutes.
Add enough water to just cover ingredients,
bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer
for 8 minutes, adding a little more water if it
starts to dry out.
Add fregola and increase heat a little so that
the water just bubbles.
Cook for about 6 minutes, until fregola is
tender, adding a little more boiling water if
it dries out too much before the fregola is
cooked; it should be quite wet but not brothy.
Taste and add salt, drizzle with oil and serve.
Wine suggestion: We don’t drink
anywhere near enough rosé in Australia
and Piggs Peake 2011 Crackling Rose,
made from 100% cabernet, brings out all the
flavours in this dish and lifts it to another
dimension. www.piggspeake.com
~ Pilu at Freshwater ~
~ co o k i n g s t y l e ~
STIR-FRYING
Stir-frying is a Chinese cooking method, developed
to prepare food in areas where fuel was scarce.
The traditional wok is a wide, thin metal pot, which
heats rapidly and evenly, so that food can be cooked
quickly over a high heat. It is quick, simple and retains
the freshness, texture, flavour and goodness of the food
being cooked.
Today, woks come in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials. If you
have a gas stove, all you need is a traditional thin carbon steel wok
available cheaply in Chinatown. These woks need to be ‘seasoned’
before use. Wash well in warm soapy water and dry thoroughly.
Heat the wok, add 2 tablespoons of oil and wipe it all over the inside
of the wok with paper towel. Continue to heat the wok for 10-15
minutes. Wipe out with paper towel, cool and repeat the process.
The wok is now ready to use. After using the wok, wash, place over
heat for a few minutes to dry thoroughly, then wipe the inside
surface with a little oil to prevent rusting.
TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL STIR-FRYING:
• The key is organisation – have all ingredients prepared in small
bowls beside the wok ready to be added; combine things that are
to be added at the same time (such as sauce ingredients).
• Cut all seafood, meat and vegetables into even bite-sized pieces.
• The wok must be hot, it should sizzle when the food is added.
The Chinese talk about ‘wok hei’, the breath of the wok, which
is the smoky flavour imparted to the food from a really hot wok.
The food must fry, not stew, so if cooking a large quantity, cook it
in batches so that the wok stays hot.
• As the wok is hot, it is important to keep the food moving so it
doesn’t burn – use a chan (metal, shovel-like utensil used for
tossing ingredients in a wok) to lift the ingredients up allowing
other ingredients to come into contact with the surface of the
wok. Remember the food will cook by coming into contact with
the sides as well as the base of the wok.
• Food continues to cook in its residual heat once it’s removed from
the wok, so don’t overcook it and serve it immediately.
See the FISHline pages of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au
for delicious stir-fry recipes, including:
• Stir-Fried Blue Swimmer Crabs with Tamarind & Coconut
• Pipis in Black Bean Sauce
• Surf Clams with Onion, Pancetta & Paprika
• Stir-Fried Squid with Black Beans, Bok Choy & Noodles
• Stir-Fried Prawns with Red Capsicum & Broccolini
• Cocktail Abalone with Asian Dressing
• Stir-Fried Bailer Shell with Garlic Shoots
~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~
STIR-FRIED CUTTLEFISH,
ASPARAGUS & OYSTER MUSHROOMS
WITH NOODLES
Serves 2
375g cuttlefish, cleaned
400g Hokkien noodles
¼ cup peanut oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
130g snow peas, halved
1 bunch green asparagus, thinly sliced diagonally
½ cup water chestnuts, sliced
180g oyster mushrooms, halved
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 tablespoons shao xing Chinese rice wine
1 tablespoon sesame oil
3 green onions, thinly sliced diagonally
Score the inside of the cuttlefish hood with angled cuts to form a
crosshatched pattern. Slice the hood into strips.
Cover noodles with boiling water for 3-4 minutes then drain well.
Heat a wok over a high heat. Add oil then cuttlefish and stir-fry
for about 1 minute, until just opaque. Remove with a slotted
spoon and set aside. Add garlic and ginger, cook for 30 seconds
then add snow peas, asparagus, water chestnuts and mushrooms.
Cook for 1 minute, then add oyster and soy sauces, shao xing and
sesame oil. Add noodles and stir to coat well in the sauce. Stir in
cuttlefish. Tip onto a serving platter, top with green onions and
serve immediately.
Wine Suggestion: The subtlety of Wirra Wirra Scrubby
Rise 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Viognier works
beautifully with the asparagus and oyster mushrooms in
this dish. www.wirrawirra.com
Learn another great stir-fry dish in our regular Fast &
Fabulous classes. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au
or by calling 9004 1111 during office hours.
7
~ b o o k re v i e w ~
SNAPPER POACHED IN
TOMATO WITH BASIL & OLIVES
Serves 4
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small brown onion, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
24 ripe cherry tomatoes, halved
1 cup basil leaves
100 ml dry white wine
20 small green olives, pitted
Salt flakes and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
4 × 160g pieces snapper fillet, skin off,
pin-boned
Heat oil over a low heat in a high-sided
frying pan.
Add onion and garlic and fry until soft
and fragrant.
Add tomato, basil, wine and olives and a couple of good pinches of salt and simmer for
about 5 minutes, until the tomatoes have fallen apart.
Arrange the pieces of fish on top so they are not touching each other, spoon some of the
tomato sauce over them, reduce heat to very low, cover and simmer for 5 minutes.
Remove from heat and set aside for 5 minutes.
Taste, add salt, if needed, and a few good turns of pepper. Serve immediately.
Recipe from Stefano Manfredi's Italian Food by Stefano Manfredi (Allen & Unwin, 2013).
Wine SuggestioN: Fiano is an under appreciated variety, and Liz Richardson
Fiano la Bambina 2013 (available through Naked Wines) is subtle enough not to
overshadow the fish but strong enough to cope with the tomato/olive combo.
Free subscription to FISHline News
If you’d like to receive a copy of FISHline News and the Sydney Seafood School program
of classes 3 times a year, please email your details to [email protected].
A full program of classes and FISHline recipes, storage tips and species information
are available at www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au.
CONTACT US
Sydney Fish Market (ABN 24 064 254 306)
CALL
Reception
+61 2 9004 1100
FISHline +61 2 9004 1122
Seafood School +61 2 9004 1111
EMAIL
[email protected]
WRITE Locked Bag 247, Pyrmont, NSW 2009, Australia
VISIT
Cnr Bank St and Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Pyrmont
WEBSITE
www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au
FACEBOOK ‘Like’ us at www.facebook.com/SydneyFishMarket
& www.facebook.com/SydneySeafoodSchool
TWITTER
Follow us @SydFishMarket & @Seafood_School
Sydney Fish Market retailers are open every day (except Christmas Day)
Disclaimer: The information in this newsletter is provided in good faith. While Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd makes
reasonable efforts to ensure information in this newsletter is up to date and accurate, neither Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd
nor any of its related bodies corporate (as defined in section 50 of Corporations Law) makes any representation or gives
any warranty as to the currency, accuracy, reliability or completeness of any information in this newsletter. To the extent
permitted by law, Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd accepts no responsibility or liability for any loss, damage or injury suffered by
the user consequent upon, or incidental to, the information in this newsletter.
8
STEFANO MANFREDI’S
ITALIAN FOOD
In 1961, a
young Stefano
Manfredi arrived
in Australia from
northern Italy
with his parents
and brother. Food,
always an integral
part of their lives,
became even more
important … a way to stay connected to the
world they’d left behind. In 2013, Manfredi
celebrated 30 years in the restaurant
business and released this comprehensive
tome which covers all of Italy’s regions …
from the tiny Valle d’Aosta pressed into
the corner of the Swiss and French Alps, to
sunny Sicily, the Mediterranean’s largest
island, at the tip of Italy’s toe.
Though handsomely packaged, this is not
a coffee table book to be flicked through –
rather an authoritative reference book that
also deserves to have its pages smudged and
streaked with cooking stains. There are few
photos – of the 25-40 recipes listed for each
region, only 3 or 4 are photographed.
John Newton’s interesting and concise
summary of 12,000+ years of Italian
culinary history sets the scene before
Manfredi guides us through classic and
modern antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci
recipes from each of Italy’s 20 regions.
There’s a good summary of the basics of an
Italian pantry, supplemented by breakout
boxes on many classic grains, cheeses,
spices and condiments. And it’s great to
see Manfredi expose the myth that extra
virgin olive oil shouldn’t be heated or used
for deep-frying. Each chapter opens with
an introduction to that region’s geography,
food history, traditions and wines, plus
there’s a chapter dedicated to Italian wine
and the major grape varieties. With over
500 recipes from the grilled freshwater
herrings of the Alpine lakes of TrentinoAlto Adige to Sardinia’s Catalan-style
rocklobster, this smart book deserves a
place on every foodlover’s book shelf.
RRP: $59.95 (Allen & Unwin)
ISBN: 9781743311172
Stefano will present some
favourite seafood recipes from his
new book on 28 June.
Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au
or call 9004 1111 to book.

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