Northern Patagonia
Transcripción
Northern Patagonia
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Northern Patagonia Includes Hornopirén . . . . . . . . . 304 Parque Pumalín . . . . . 305 Chaitén. . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Futaleufú. . . . . . . . . . . 310 La Junta. . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Puyuhuapi. . . . . . . . . . 314 Coyhaique. . . . . . . . . . 317 Villa Cerro Castillo. . . 323 Chile Chico . . . . . . . . . 324 Cochrane. . . . . . . . . . . 329 Villa O’Higgins . . . . . . 332 Best Places to Eat ¨¨Mamma Gaucha (p319) ¨¨Cocinas Costumbristas (p305) Why Go? For a century, Northern Patagonia has been the most rugged and remote part of continental Chile, the place where scant pioneers quietly set forth a Wild West existence. While life here may still be tough for its residents, it doesn’t lack for scenery. Exuberant rainforest, scrubby steppe and unclimbed peaks crowd the horizon, but the essence of this place is water, from the clear cascading rivers to the turquoise lakes, massive glaciers and labyrinthine fjords. Southbound visitors often bypass Northern Patagonia on a sprint to Torres del Paine, but its backcountry treasures are pay dirt to the adventurous traveler. The mostly gravel Carretera Austral rumbles from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins, some 1200km south. Ferry connections are required for northerly roadless stretches where mountains meet the sea. Though sections north of Coyhaique are now being paved, the iconic challenge of driving the rest still remains. When to Go Coyhaique °C/°F Temp ¨¨Ruibarbo (p320) 30/86 ¨¨Dalí (p320) 20/68 ¨¨Mi Casita de Té (p314) Best Places to Stay ¨¨Fundo Los Leones (p314) ¨¨Bordebaker Lodge (p328) ¨¨Destino No Turistico (p327) ¨¨Terra Luna (p327) ¨¨Patagonia House (p319) Rainfall inches/mm 10/250 8/200 6/150 10/50 4/100 0/32 -10/14 2/50 0 J F M Nov–Mar Warmest months and the best bus connections on the Carretera Austral. A M J J A Feb Festival Costumbrista celebrates pioneer culture; parties in most small towns. S O N D Jul–Aug Blue sky days around Coyhaique, with nearby skiing and snowshoeing. 6 Scout for cave paintings and spy time dallying in cool Caleta Tortel (p331), a seaside village set on boardwalks. 5 Lose track of white water, rafting the world-class rapids of Río Futaleufú (p310). 4 Face a whirl of pioneer Patagonia (p311) on remote Andean trails. 3 Giddy-up into farms, rushing rivers and hanging glaciers while tracing the length of the mythic Carretera Austral (p306). 2 Admire the rural fjords and trek the temperate rainforests of Parque Pumalín (p305). 1 Paddle the misty Northern Patagonia Highlights Parque Nacional Isla Guamblín OCEAN PACIFIC Puerto Varas Isla Guafo e am Archipiélago de las Guatecas 7 Parque Pumalín RN 258 Parque Nacional Lago Puelo Parque Pumalín El Bolsón RN 258 Lago Palena Palena Puerto Ramírez Parque Nacional 7 RP 19 RP 62 Chubut Tecka RN 25 Ñorquinco Alto Río Senguer Paso de Río Frías Gobernador Costa Lago Fontana La Tapera Lago Verde Lago La Plata Villa Amengual Termas del Ventisquero Puyuhuapi Lago General Vintter Paso Palena Carrenleufú RN 40 RP RP 12 20 Río Negro El Maitén Corcovado Carrenleufú Reserva Nacional Lago Rosselot Puerto Queulat Cisnes Parque Nacional Isla Magdalena Termas de Puyuhuapi Carretera Austral La Junta Villa Raul Marín Vanguardia Balmaceda Villa Santa Lucía Termas Trevelín El Amarillo Puerto Volcán Paso Futaleufú Cárdenas Corcovado Lago Futaleufú (2300m) Yelcho Chaitén Volcán Chaitén Caleta Gonzalo Región X Golfo de Ancud HuequiAycara Peninsula Parque Nacional Hornopirén Parque Nacional Los Alerces Volcán Michinmahuida Esquel (2404m) Puelche Hornopirén Volcán Hornopirén (1572m) PUERTO MONTT Calbuco Archipiélago de Chiloé n Pa Melinka Golfo Corcovado Quellón Isla Grande de Chiloé Chonchi 5 Pangal Carelmapu Parque Nacional Chiloé Canal de Chacao a an ric Parque Nacional Alerce Andino N o rth e rn Patago nia N o r t h e r n Pata g on i a H i g hl i g h t s Aeropuerto El Tepual 302