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NATURALHAZARDS
CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE OF MASONRY HOUSES
NATURALHAZARDS
CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE
OF MASONRY HOUSES
For masons and craftsmen
MARCIAL BLONDET
Editor
AUTHORS
PUCP
Director: Dr. Eng. Marcial Blondet
Construction: Eng. Iván Bragagnini
Structures: Mag. Eng. Gianfranco Ottazzi
Architecture: Arch. Mariana Bidart
Research Assistant: Eng. Nicola Tarque
Research Assistant: Eng. Miguel Mosqueira
Design and edition: Arch. Mariana Bidart
Art: Mr. Víctor Sanjinez
Translation: Eng. Gladys Villa Garcia
SENCICO
Technical Consultant: Ing. Carmen Kuroiwa
Technical Consultant: Ing. Gabriela Esparza
Acknowledgements
The authors thank the following persons and institutions for their help in the elaboration of this
booklet:
- To PUCP students Miguel Baca, Joen Bazán, Michael Dueñas, Roberto Flores, Sandra Godenzi, Johan
Laucata, José Puente, Paúl Rojo and Carla Valdivieso. They visited various cities of the Peruvian
coast to collect information about informal constructions.
- To engineers Julio Arango, Antonio Blanco, Carlos Casabonne, Héctor Gallegos, Gerardo Jáuregui,
Alejandro Muñoz, Pablo Orihuela, Julio Rivera and Ángel San Bartolomé. All of them reviewed a
preliminary version of this booklet and contributed with valuable suggestions.
-To Professor Richard Klingner for his contributions to the second version of the booklet and for his
review of the translation from Spanish to English.
- To the Dirección Académica de Investigación (Academic Direction of Research) of the PUCP and to
SENCICO for the economic support given to carry out on-site activities and to develop this booklet.
- To the Earthquake Engineering Research Institute (EERI) of California, U.S.A. for the funding of the
second printing of this booklet.
In appreciation
The authors wish to state that they have been inspired and have taken material from the following
excellent booklets about masonry construction:
- Gallegos, Ríos, Cassabonne, Ucelli, Icochea and Arango. 1995.
(Building with Brick), CAPECO, Lima, Perú.
Construyendo con ladrillo
- Asociación Colombiana de Ingeniería Sísmica (Colombian Association of Earthquake
Engineering). 2001. Manual de construcción, evaluación y rehabilitación sismo resistente
de viviendas de mampostería (Handbook for construction, evaluation and seismic
rehabilitation of masonry houses). AIS, Colombia.
Second edition: January 2005
Version 3.0
For masons and craftsmen
© Marcial Blondet
© Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú
University Avenue, San Miguel, Lima 32, Peru
Phone 626-2000
E mail: [email protected]
© SENCICO
Canada Avenue 1568, San Borja, Lima 41, Peru
Phone 475-3821
E mail: [email protected]
Total or partial reproduction of this publication by any means is permitted al long as the source is
credited.
Printed in Peru
NATURALHAZARDS
For Virgilio Ghio C.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 1: Natural Hazards
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1
Natural hazards in Peru
2
Earthquakes
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Chapter 2: The earthquake resistant house
1
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Inadequate locations
3
The earthquake resistant house
4
Configuration of an earthquake-resistant house
5
The unsafe house
6
The safe house
7
Components of the building utilities
Chapter 3: Construction of a safe house
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1
Drawings and other administrative procedures
2
Cleaning and leveling the land
3
Layout
4
Construction of the foundation
5
Column rebar assembly
6
Walls
7
Pouring concrete in confining columns
8
Confining beams
9
Lightweight slab
10
Stairs
Chapter 4: Maintaining your house
2
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18
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48
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Cracked walls
Corrosion of reinforcing steel
3
Efflorescence
4
Wall moisture
Chapter 5: Plans for your house
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1
Why are drawings useful?
2
The design of your house
3
Sample house plans
References
Appendix
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1
Quantity of walls in an earthquake-resistant house
2
Concrete types
Schedule of material quantities
3
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Adequate locations
2
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82
83
NATURALHAZARDS
INTRODUCTION
Peru is located in a
seismic area. From
time to time
earthquakes occur
which affect
inadequately
constructed houses,
causing major
damage and in many
cases partial or total
collapse.
In this booklet we
will show you how
to build earthquakeresistant houses.
Remember the
importance of
consulting a Civil
Engineer before
preparing your
drawings and
constructing your
house.
5
1
NATURAL HAZARDS
CHAPTER
1 Natural hazards in Peru
Many regions of our country are
vulnerable to natural hazards
such as avalanches, floods or
earthquakes. It is important to
understand the effects of these
natural phenomena to decide where
and how to build safe houses.
Avalanches
Major movement of earth, mud and rocks
that occurs when significant rain has
fallen over the mountains.
Earthquakes
Ravines
Strong movements
that occur inside the earth´s crust and
that produce strong vibrational movement
in the soil which supports houses.
El Niño phenomenon
The El Niño phenomenon is
responsible for warming of
sea water, which
results in
substantial rain
in the coastal
and highland
areas of our
country.
When this
phenomenon occurs,
avalanches, floods and
landslides are more
frequent.
6
Floods
Are produced when a
river overflows its banks.
NATURALHAZARDS
COLOMBIA
ECUADOR
2
Earthquakes
Z 1
Earthquake risk is not the same in all
locations. That is why the National
Construction Code has divided Peru in
three seismic regions. The region of
greatest seismic risk is the coast.
Z 2
BRAZIL
PA
CI
FI
C
O
CE
AN
Z 3
Seismic regions
according to the National
Construction Code:
Z1
Z2
Z3
Low seismicity
Medium seismicity
High seismicity
What type of damage can earthquakes produce?
Earthquakes can produce significant damage
to inadequately designed and constructed
houses. For example, parapets can fall,
window glass can break or walls can crack.
Houses with severe structural problems can
collapse, causing major material loss, serious
injury to its occupants and even the
regrettable loss of lives.
7
2
CHAPTER
1
THE EARTHQUAKE-RESISTANT HOUSE
Adequate locations
Safe places to build houses are those located
far from areas where natural hazards
may occur. The best location is flat
terrain, with stable and strong
ground consisting of rock or gravel.
Stable ground
2
Inadequate locations
In canyons
or steep
hillsides.
8
I WILL
SHOW THE PLACES
WHERE YOU MUST NOT
BUILD YOUR HOUSE
BECAUSE IT IS
DANGEROUS
NATURALHAZARDS
THE EARTHQUAKE-RESISTANT
HOUSE
In landslide
areas.
Over
non- compacted
filled soil.
Extraordinary flood level
In flood-prone areas
(due to rise in river level).
Over river beds or
irrigation ditches.
Over
sanitary waste
landfills or construction clearings.
In volcanic areas due to
sand boils and steam
venting from
the soil.
Phreatic water table
Steam rises
9
3
The earthquake-resistant house
A confined brick masonry earthquake-resistant
house is designed and constructed so that
its walls are able to resist earthquakes.
Its plan view must be simple and
symmetrical. Its bearing walls
must be well constructed
and must always be
confined by reinforced
concrete columns
and beams.
Lightweight slab
Transmits all the load it
bears (self-weight, partition
walls, furniture, persons, etc.)
to the walls. The slab is connected
to the walls, so it permits both
elements to work together during an
earthquake.
Confining beams
and columns
These are
reinforced
concrete elements
surrounding
the walls.
Walls
These are the most
important elements of a
masonry structure. They
are used to transmit all
the vertical load from
the lightweight slab to
the foundation and to
resist seismic forces.
The walls must be built
with structural brick
and must be confined by
concrete beams and
columns. Only confined
walls are able to resist
earthquakes.
Foundation
Plinth
Transmits all the loads from the
structure to the ground.
Transmits the loads from the walls to the foundation.
This element confines and protects the first floor walls.
Recommendations
Walls confined by beams and columns resist earthquakes. If you want your house to be
earthquake-resistant, we recommend that it should have the greatest possible quantity of
confined walls in both directions.
Partition walls, made with lightweight hollow clay tile, are used only to separate rooms inside the
house.
10
NATURALHAZARDS
HOUSE
4
Layout of an earthquake-resistant house
If you want your house to resist earthquakes successfully, your design must have a
good shape and an adequate distribution of walls.
HERE
I WILL SHOW
YOU EXAMPLES OF HOW
NOT TO BUILD…
...AND HOW
TO BUILD AN
EARTHQUAKE-RESISTANT
HOUSE
YES
NO
Irregular
Symmetrical
The shape of your house
has to be as symmetrical as
possible, both in plan view
as well as elevation.
Lightweight slabs must
not have too many openings.
Look for symmetry in
your house when you build the
walls. You must try to have the
same number of walls
in both directions.
Inadequate plan layout
Adequate shape
11
NO
YES
The plan length of your
house should not be
greater than 3 times its
plan width.
Wi
dth
3
an
th
e
r
Mo
h
idt
ew
h
t
es
tim
W
idt
h
Poorly proportioned plan
ss
Le
es
tim
3
an
th
th
wid
e
th
Well proportioned plan
Build window and
door openings up
to the level of the
collar beam and
locate them in the
same position
on every floor.
Poor location of
window and door openings
Good location of
window and door openings
The adequate location
of second floor walls
is very important.
Always build second
floor walls exactly
over first
floor walls.
Improperly located walls that do not
rest over other walls
12
Properly located walls
NATURALHAZARDS
HOUSE
NO
YES
It is important for
slabs to be well
proportioned and to
have the same shape on
every floor.
The same shape of slab on
every floor
Slabs of different shape on
every floor
L
A
A
Openings
weaken the walls.
Do not include
openings longer
than half the
length of the wall.
(The distance A
must be less
than half the
distance L).
L
Inadequate opening proportions
Adequate opening proportions
Confined walls are the elements
that resist earthquakes.
Your house must have
a similar number of
walls in both
directions.
Few confined walls in
the short direction of the house
Many confined walls in both
directions
13
5
The unsafe house
UNQUALIFIED MANUAL LABOR
THIS DRAWING
SHOWS THE MOST
COMMON ERRORS IN HOUSES
THAT HAVE NOT BEEN BUILT BY
PROFESSIONALS. THESE HOUSES
ARE NOT SAFE DURING
EARTHQUAKES
POOR-QUALITY MATERIALS
Columns and beams
with voids in
the concrete
Exposed
reinforcement
bars
Insufficient
number of
Non-uniform
resistant walls in
joints
both directions
Irregular shape
in plan view
Many
openings
in the
walls
Many openings in
roof slab.
Cantilevers.
Walls
without tie
columns.
Excessively long walls
14
No vertical continuity of openings
Footing
over loose soil or
sanitary waste
landfill
NATURALHAZARDS
HOUSE
6
The safe house
QUALIFIED MANUAL LABOR
THIS DRAWING SHOWS
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF A
WELL-DESIGNED,
SAFE HOUSE
Civil Engineer or Architectural engineer
Master
Craftsman
GOOD QUALITY OF
MATERIALS
Use good-quality materials. “Saving
expenses” by purchasing doubtful
quality materials, never pays.
Well proportioned house
dimensions
Second-floor walls
supported over
first floor walls
Many confined
walls in both
directions
Columns
and beams
without
air pockets
in concrete
Uniform
thickness of
mortar joints
between bricks
Well-located and
well-proportioned door and
window openings that
reach the roof slab
All
walls plumb
Confined walls
Footing over firm soil
15
7
Components of the Building Utilities
A well conceived house should have functional
electrical and plumbing utilities. Here are the
main components for each installation process.
ELECTRICAL
BE CAREFUL
WHEN INSTALLING
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IN
YOUR HOUSE TO PREVENT
ACCIDENTS
SYSTEM
Octagonal distribution box
Electrical circuit
Main
switchboard
Electric meter
From main
power
source
Outlet circuit
WATER-SUPPLY SYSTEM
BE CAREFUL
WHEN INSTALLING
THE WATER SYSTEM
TO PREVENT LEAKS.
Shut-off valve
From main
water
source
Water
meter
16
NATURALHAZARDS
HOUSE
SANITARY SEWER SYSTEM
Ventilation
Kitchen drainage
To main
drainage
system
Trap
Inspection
box
Ventilation
Bathroom drainage
Trap
17
3
CHAPTER
CONSTRUCTION OF A SAFE HOUSE
1 Drawings and permits (or other administrative procedures)
Once you buy your parcel of land in an
adequate location, you must design your
house. If it is possible, get advice
from an engineer or an architect for
the design of the house and the
drawings. You can approach your
local municipality to obtain help
with your drawings and to
find out if your house can
also be used for a
business. Remember that
the construction of your
house must be formalized
by registering it in your
town hall.
2
Cleaning and leveling the land
Before starting work, clean the ground well.
Remove all trash, construction debris,
organic material and loose soil.
Organic material is
bad for construction.
18
CONSTRUCTION OFNATURAL
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Leveling the land
The construction site
must be level, and
above the drainpipes
for your area.
1m
To level the site
you must cut and
fill the ground, so
that ultimately it is
completely flat at the
required level.
Reference level
Less
than 1 m
More
than 1 m
Desired finished ground level
Cut
Natural
terrain
Fill
“Run the level”
Use 1,5 m high
stakes
Use a ½”
diameter
transparent hose
with maximum
length of 10 m
Fill the hose with clean water
and verify that there are no
bubbles.
Place stakes along the perimeter
of your site and verify that they
are plumb.
Use a stake to identify a
reference point level such as the
level of the street. Mark a height of
1m above the reference level on this
first stake.
Using the water level inside
the hose, mark the height of the
first stake on all the other stakes.
Cut and fill
After marking all
the stakes,
measure on
each one the
distance between
the mark and the
level of the
natural terrain.
Fill and cut the terrain until
the distance between the
mark and the ground
is 1 m
Rammer
Na t u
Cut
When the
distances
measured are less
than 1 m
ral t
erra
in
Fill
When the distances
measured are greater
than 1 m
To fill the ground,
place layers of soil 30 cm
thick. Wet each layer with
water and compact well with a rammer.
19
3
Layout
The layout is used to show the position
on the ground where the foundation
of your house will be constructed.
Construct several guideposts from
wood stakes.
Guideposts
Place the guideposts
according to the
drawing dimensions
so they define the
edges of the
building footing.
Straight angle
(90 degrees)
3
4
Locate the center of each
footing and extend strings
from each end of the
guideposts limiting the width
of each footing.
5
Use 3-4-5 triangles to
verify that all walls are
perpendicular (that is, all
corners are right angles).
Lime
Use the strings as
guides and mark the width of the
footing on the ground with chalk or lime.
20
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
4
Construction of the Foundation
Continuous footing
In the following drawing you can
see the minimum required
footing dimensions.
Plinth
Finished floor
30 cm
minimum
10 cm
10 cm
10 cm
Compacted
filling ground
Footing width
For houses up to two
stories with bearing
walls:
Natural
terrain
50 cm
minimum
80 cm
Slab on grade
- For hard soil like rock
and gravel, minimum 40 cm
- For clay soil or clay
sand, minimum 50 cm
Footing
- For sandy soils, minimum
70 cm
To determine your soil
type, go to the next page.
Width
Stepped footing
50
Construct stepped footings
when the terrain is sloped.
cm
10 cm minimum
10 cm minimum
50 cm minimum
50 cm minimum
Recommendations
Hard soils such as rock or gravel are the best foundation soils. Gravel is made up of different size
stones and course compact sands. Sometimes it is difficult to excavate these soils with a shovel and
you have to use a large drill.
Find out about the footings of nearby houses. If nearby houses have settled under their weight, then
your foundation should be wider and deeper than that of your neighbors.
21
If your soil is not gravel or rock, how can you recognize what type it is?
You can do this simple test.
Dig a hole
in the
ground 1
meter deep
and take out a
sample of
soil.
Let the
mixture
settle
for
24
hours.
Shake
the bottle
strongly until
the mix is
uniform.
Place a portion of
the soil
sample in a
transparent
bottle
until it is
one third
full. Add
another
third
of water and
one spoonful
of salt.
Measure
the height
of sand,
clay and
silt.
SILT
CLAY
SAND
If more than half is sand,
the soil is SANDY
If more than half is clay, the
soil is CLAY
Excavating the foundation trenches
Dig out the
foundation
trenches using the
chalk marks as
guidelines.
The inner sides
of the trenches
must be as
vertical as
possible.
The trenches must
be clean and free from
any organic components.
The bottom
must be leveled,
clean and
without loose
soil.
22
If it is difficult to
level the bottom of
the trench, you can
pour a poor
concrete mix
(1:10) so that the
bottom of the
trench is level.
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Before pouring the footing
Standing column reinforcing bars
1 @ 5 cm
rest @ 25 cm
4 @ 10 cm
Assemble the
reinforcing bars for
each column. Then
stand the assembly in
place where the column
will be. On page 26
you will find details.
Placing installations
Have the utilities and plumbing for your
house ready before laying the foundations.
The pipes must never pass through any
reinforced concrete element such as
columns, beams or roof joists.
Pipes crossing continuous
footings must have a diameter
less than 15 cm (6 in.)
To assure that
the steel
assemblies are
always vertical,
fasten them with
# 8 wire.
4 @ 10 cm
10 cm minimum
Plinth
1 @ 5 cm
2 @ 15 cm
15 cm minimum
15 cm maximum
Assembly stirrups
Footing
The steel bars of
the columns rest
on the bottom of
the foundation and
must be bent with
an anchorage
length of 25 cm
If it is necessari for pipes to
pass over the footing, try to
make sure that all of them
cross at the plinth..
15 cm minimum
Concrete spacer 25 cm
Wetting the
trenches
Wet the trenches before
pouring concrete for the
foundation.
Always leave some
tolerance in the
footing so that pipes
are not trapped.
Tolerance
Recommendations
You can leave holes in the foundation for the pipes, using larger-diameter pipes. Before pouring
concrete for the foundation, fill the pipes with sand and seal them temporarily.
Never leave sand bags in the foundation to provide holes for crossing pipes.
23
Pouring concrete for the foundation
It is better if you rent a small-capacity mixer to
prepare concrete. This will help control quality
and save materials. Pre-assing the people
who will help you mixi and pour the concrete.
Pour concrete for the foundation
with wheelbarows. As
pouring continues,
drop big stones
in the
foundation
trenches.
Do not place big stones
near the columns.
Leave approximately 30
cm on each side of the
column free of
big stones.
Be careful
to ensure that each
stone is completely
covered by concrete.
Concrete for the foundation
Foundations are made of simple
concrete.
1 bucket of cement
Remember that the concrete
must not remain rotating in the
mixer for more than
3 minutes.
10 buckets of
aggregate
30% in volume of big
stones (maximum size
10 in.)
1 1/2 buckets of
water
Slab on
grade
Steel reinforcement
in the plinth
Plinth beam
If your soil
is sandy or
clayish, it
is better
to place steel
reinforcement
in the plinth.
Minimum
reinforcement
4 Ø 3/8 in.
¼ in.
stirrups every
20 cm
24
10 cm
10 cm
M inimum
30 cm
80 cm
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Concrete for the plinth
You can hand mix the concrete for the plinth. Clean a flat area where the mix will be
prepared. A concrete floor is desirable. Mix the dry materials and then add water. If the
mix is not workable, you can add a little more water. Wet the forms with water before
pouring. To pour the concrete you can use buckets or wheelbarrows. Remember not to
place big stones in areas near columns.
Concrete for plinth in
firm soil
The plinth does not require
steel reinforcement.
1 bucket of cement
Concrete for plinth in loose
soil (sand or clay)
Build a reinforced plinth to
prevent cracking of the walls
due to settlement of the
ground soil.
1 bucket of cement
8 buckets of aggregate
2 buckets of aggregate
25% in volume of
medium size stones
(maximum size 4 in.)
1 1/4 buckets of
water
4 volumes of crushed
stone (maximum size
3/4 in.)
1 bucket of water
The plinth
When you finish pouring concrete on the plinth,
scratch the upper surface with a nail so that
the mortar of the first layer sticks well.
Construction
joints
If you need to stop pouring
concrete on the foundation or
the plinth, leave a
diagonal joint with
exposed stones.
25
Column rebar assembly
Dimensions
eb
anc
m
imu
x
Ma
t
dis
en
e
etw
s:
mn
Maximum free height: 2.40 m
5
0m
4.5
u
col
Collar
beam
Column
Le
v
o
el
fs
lab
g
on
rad
e
Wall
The minimum cross section of
concrete columns has to be
25 cm x the wall width.
Footing
The minimum
covering
for steel
reinforcement
is 2.5 cm
measured to
the stirrup.
Reinforcement
Minimum reinforcement
for columns is 4 j 3/8 in.
steel bars. Column
stirrups are ¼ in. and
have to be placed with
the following spacing:
1@ 5 cm + 4 @ 10 cm
+ the rest @ 25 cm on
each end. The distances
between stirrups are
measured starting
from the plinth upwards
and from the collar
beam downwards.
26
Header wall (long
direction of brick
perpendicular to the
plane of the wall)
Stretcher wall
(long direction
of brick parallel
to the plane of
the wall)
Stirrup bending
Correct
Incorrect
cm
7.5
Try to alternate the
position of the
stirrup‘s hook, so that
it is not located in the
same corner of the
column.
Plan view
It is very important that the hooks stay
in the interior of the column, so that
they work adequately.
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Rebar splices in columns
NO
YES
Splice half
the bars at
one height of
the column
and the rest
at a different
height.
50% splices in
one cross section
Height (H)
H/3
H/3
Splice
length
H/3
Steel
Connect the steel bars
within the central third of
the free height of the
column.
Splice
length
3/8 in.
40 cm
1/2 in.
50 cm
Protect the
protruding rebar
splice length with
weak concrete 1:10
5 cm
Splice
length
Tie with #16 wire
100 % splices in
one cross section
The minimum
concrete
covering for
the stirrup
is 2.5 cm
Splice
length
Never lap splice 4 bars
in the same-cross
section along the
column because this
weakens the column.
If you build only the first floor,
leave protruding rebar for future
construction of the second floor.
Recommendation
Never weld steel reinforcing bars.
27
6 Walls
Preparing the bricks
The mortar
The day before building the walls,
clean the bricks and water them
for 20 minutes. Then,
let them rest.
First,
dry mix
the cement
and the sand.
To prepare
mortar use one
bucket of
cement with 5
buckets of
clean coarse
river sand.
Then add water as
you continue with
the construction
of the walls.
First course
Before setting the first layer, place the
bricks without mortar to determine
the brick setting pattern.
Place guide bricks at
the ends of the walls
and connect them
temporarily with a
string. This will
help with the
alignment of
the bricks
in every
layer.
Straightedge
Wooden
straightedge
Wet
the upper
part of the
plinth with a
cement paste.
The upper
part of each layer has
to be level.
Recommendation
Always use fresh mortar. Do not use mortar that is starting to harden.
28
Place
straightedges
to control the
width of
horizontal
joints.
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Plumb-bob
Constructing the wall
For the construction of the first course, place mix uniformly
over the plinth using a bricklayer’s trowel. Set the
bricks over the mix and verify that their edges touch
the strings that connects the guide bricks.
To set successive layers, place the mix over the
immediately below and fill the vertical joints completely.
Hand
level
Trowel
Placing the mortar
Use a small wooden
board to prevent the
escape of mortar
at the joints.
Placing the bricks
To better set the brick
hit it lightly with
the handle of
the
trowel.
Horizontal and vertical
joints
Level
control
Do not leave joints
more than 1.5 cm thick.
Joints that are too thick
will weaken the wall.
Use the
plumb-bob
at every layer
to make sure
the wall
is vertical.
1 to 1.5 cm
1 to 1.5 cm
29
Daily progress
1.20 m
Do not raise the wall more than 1.20 m high each working day. If you raise a greater
wall height, it might fall because the mortar mix will still be fresh.
Leave toothed edges at the sides
of the wall next to every column to
provideVadequate confinement for
the wall.
5 cm
2.5 cm
Column-wall connection
Detail of the
toothed wall
edge
If you decide not to leave a toothed wall
edge, place 2 # 8 wires every two layers
anchored 50 cm inside the wall.
50 cm
25 cm
25 cm
In the foundation and the
plinth do not place big stones
near columns.
30
50 cm
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Electrical installations in the walls
Embed electrical conduit inside false columns
that are formed between toothed walls,
without steel and filled with 1:6 concrete.
Pipe
NEVER
WEAKEN THE
WALL BREAKING IT TO
PLACE ELECTRICAL
CONDUIT OR
ACCESSORIES
Electrical switch
Outlet
25cm
Drain and ventilation pipes
Embed the drain and ventilation
pipes inside false columns that are
formed between the toothed walls.
Place #8 wire every three layers
and wrap the pipes with #16 wire.
Fill the false
columns with
1:6 fluid concrete.
#8 Wire
#16 Wire
31
7
Pouring concrete in confining columns
Formwork and pouring
After the walls are built, attach formwork to the walls for the confining columns. It is
better if you use a portable concrete mixer to prepare concrete for columns. Use buckets
to carry the concrete mix from the mixer to the upper part of the formwork.
Carefully pour the concrete inside the forms.
To prevent the
appearance of air
pocket in columns use a
concrete mix with less
stone in the first
batches.
Vibrate concrete
with a long rod
to prevent
air pockets.
Lightly hit
the form
externally
with a
rubber
hammer.
Concrete for columns
1 bucket of cement
2 buckets of coarse
sand
4 buckets of crushed
stone
(maximum size ¾ in.)
1 bucket of water
Use braces
to hold
the forms.
Use a
plumb-bob
to verify that the
formwork is vertical.
32
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Formwork removal
After pouring concrete into the columns,
leave the forms up for 24 hours.
Then carefully remove the forms and
use them again for other columns.
Curing
Cure concrete after removal of the
forms from the columns. Curing
consists of watering the concrete
elements at least 3 times a day to
improve hardening of cement.
Cure every
concrete element
for at least
7 days.
Recommendation
If a column has a large number of voids, immediately break and remove the concrete, carefully clean
the steel bars, replace the formwork and pour again the concrete again.
33
8 Confining beams
The confining beams of your house are
important because they help confine the
walls.
Collar beams are the beams on top
of the walls.
Minimum reinforcement
Minimum reinforcement of all beams is: 4
steel bars Ø 3/8 in. with 1/2 in. stirrups
spaced 1@ 5 cm, 4 @ 10 cm and the rest
@ 25 cm from each end.
W
wid all
th
Roof
thickness
Deep beams
Deep beams are used to resist
the weight of partition walls or
of the roof. They transmit the
load to columns and walls. The
depth of this beams is greater
than the thickness of the slabs.
Second floor
hollow clay
tile partition
wall
Lightweight slab
Minimum concrete covering is 3 cm
34
The minimum
depth of this
beams is the free
span divided by 14.
Deep beams usually
do not have a
wall underneath.
Deep beam
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Flat beams
Flat beams are inside the
slabs and help to
transmit the weigh of
partition walls to the
columns and bearing
walls. It is better not to
have flat beams longer
than 4 m.
Second-floor
partition wall of
hollow clay tile
Lightweight slab
Flat beam
Second floor partition wall
of hollow clay tile
Reinforcement of flat beams
Stirrups are Ø 1/4 in.’ spaced 1@ 5 cm, 4@ 10
cm and the rest @ 25 cm
Reinforcement for beam
spans up to 3 m
Reinforcement for beam
spans up to 4 m
Minimum beam cross section
Minimum beam cross section
2 Ø 1/2 in.’
20 cm
20 cm
3 Ø 3/8 in.’
2 Ø 1/2 in.’
3 Ø 1/2 in.’
50 cm
30 cm
Rebar splices in beams
Be careful when you splice
reinforcement bars in
beams. Upper
reinforcement bars must be
spliced at the center of the
beam span. Lower
reinforcement bars must
be spliced near the ends
of the beam.
Upper rebar splice: at the
center of the free span
Lower rebar splice: at the first or third part
of the free span.
Free span
L\3
L\3
L\3
Recommendations
Stirrups are measured from the inner face of the wall.
Minimum concrete covering for deep beams is 3 cm measured from the stirrup and for flat beams is
2.5 cm
35
Beam-column connection
Carefully place reinforcement bars at
beam column intersection. When you
pour concrete in these areas, vibrate
concrete extensively with a rod so that
no air pockets are formed.
Tie steel bars with
#16 wire at
beam-column
intersections
Detail of plan view
In case the beam is not continuous,
bend the steel bar horizontally.
>
<
cm
Rebar bending length
in beams has to be 15 cm
Spacers for beams
#16 wire to
fix rebar
Longitudinal
rebar
Use equal strength concrete
for the mortar and beams
(proportion 1:4)
3
cm
To keep beam reinforcing bars in horizontal position,
place mortar cubes 3 cm side under them.
MORTAR
CUBE
3 cm
cm
15
15
3 cm
Distance between mortar cubes:
Approximately 1.5 m
36
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Incorporating lintels into the beam
Door and window openings should go up to collar-beam level. Here are three ways of
making lintels over these openings.
Alternative 1 (highly recommended)
Beam with greater depth and confinement columns.
Collar beam
1/4” stirrups @ 15 cm
Alternative 3
Opening that goes up to the bottom of
the collar beam.
Reinforcement
<
Opening span
am
be
ar
l
l
Co
>
20 cm minimum
Confining column
ing
en
Op span
Aditional reinforcement for lintel beams
Opening span
Reinforcement
0.80 m to 1.50 m
2 Ø 3/8 in.
1.50 m to 2 m
2 Ø 1/2 in.
Minimum 25 cm
If the opening
span is less
than 1 m, you do
not need to
place additional
reinforcement to
the collar beam.
Alternative 2
Beam with greater depth without confinement columns.
1/4 in. stirrups @ 15 cm
Standard
collar-beam
reinforcement
Collar beam
1/4 in. stirrups @ 15 cm
Minimum 25 cm
Reinforcement
<
20 cm
Opening span
If the opening span
is up to 1.5 m, add
one additional 1/2 in.
rebar to the lower
reinforcement of the
collar beam.
>
20 cm
Supplemental
collar beam
reinforcement
1 additional
Ø 1/2 in.
1/4 in.
stirrups
@ 15 cm
37
Beam rebar assembly
Concrete for beams and
slabs
Place the steel reinforcement bars of the collar
beams on top of the walls after removing the
formwork from the columns.
Pouring of beams
1 bucket of cement
All beams (collar, deep and flat) and lintels
are poured simultaneously with the slabs.
2 buckets of coarse
sand
stone
(maximum size 3/4 in.)
NEVER
STOP POURING
CONCRETE IN BEAMS
LEAVING HORIZONTAL
JOINTS!
1 bucket of water
No !
Pipes/Plumbing in beams
Never bend beam rebars to pass drainage pipes.
NO
Bent rebars
38
YES
Straight rebars
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
9 Lightweight slab
Slab components
Lightweight slabs are formed with parallel
reinforced concrete joists spaced at 40 cm.
Hollow bricks 30 cm wide and 15 cm
high are placed between
the joists. On top of this,
a concrete slab 5 cm
thick is poured.
Upper slab
Use lightweight slabs
20 cm thick for roofs
up to 4.5 m long.
The joists are placed
parallel to the shortest
span to be covered by
the roof.
Collar
beams
Hollow ceiling
bricks
Steel rebar
for temperature
Upper steel rebar
Lower steel rebar
Component dimensions
The hollow ceiling bricks must be perfectly
aligned and the slab has to be level.
Joists do not
have stirrups.
Joist
30 cm
10 cm
Temperature steel
reinforcement
To prevent cracking of the upper
slab due to temperature effects, you
have to place 1/4 in. steel bars
every 25 cm, perpendicular to the
joists.
30 cm
10 cm
Temperature steel
reinforcement is placed
at mid height of the upper
slab.
15 cm 5 cm
Minimum
concrete
covering = 2 cm
20 cm
5 cm
Upper slab
15 cm
Upper steel rebar
Steel rebar for
Hollow ceiling brick
temperature
Lower steel rebar
Prepare mortar cubes
(2.5 cm per side) and use
them as supports for
joist reinforcement
bars.
Mortar cubes (2.5 cm per side)
NO! Temperature steel reinforcement must not be
in contact with the ceiling bricks.
39
Slab formwork
Prepare slab formwork with wooden boards at least 1
in. thick for each joist bed. Support the boards over
2 in. x 4 in. wooden beams which rest upon
vertical wooden 2 in. x 3 in. posts.
Minimum
dimension
of board
1 in.x 6 in.
2 in. x 4 in.
wooden
beams
Vertical
wooden
2 in. x 3 in.
posts
cm
75
Bricks or wedges
90 cm
Slab on grade
NO
Never support lightweight
slab formwork over
non-compacted soil.
YES
The slab on grade should be
constructed before placing slab
formwork. If there is no slab on
grade, then the ground soil must be
well compacted and leveled.
Recommendation
Never use inadequate materials such as cement bags, bricks or cardboard as formwork.
If you do, concrete elements will be distorted.
40
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Connection between confining beam and joist rebar
10 cm
Tie joist upper reinforcement bar to confinement beam reinforcement with #16 wire.
Joists steel
reinforcement bars
Splices of joist rebars
Steel
If you have to splice the lower reinforcement bars in
a joist, do it in the extreme thirds of the free span.
Splice
length
3/8 in.
40 cm
1/2 in.
50 cm
NO
Never splice lower
reinforcing bar at
the center of
the joist.
YES
Splice lower
reinforcing bar at
extreme thirds of span.
Splice
length
Span/3
Span/3
Span/3
Span
41
Steel reinforcement necessary for each single
span joist in a 20 cm lightweight slab system
0.60 m
0.60 m
1Ø 8 mm
1Ø 8 mm
1Ø3/8 in.
<
0.90 m
>
Span = 3 m
0.90 m
1Ø8 mm
1Ø8 mm
1Ø1/2 in.
1Ø3/8 in.
0.80 m
0.80 m
<
>
Span = 4 to 4.50 m
Steel reinforcement necessary for each two span joist in a 20-cm
lightweight slab system
0.60 m 0.30 m
0.30 m 0.60 m
0.60 m
0.60 m
1Ø8 mm
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø 8 mm
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø 8 mm
<
>
Span = 3 m
0.30 m 0.70 m
0.70 m
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø 8 mm
<
>
Span = 3 m
0.70 m 0.30 m
0.80 m
1Ø 8 mm
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø 8 mm
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø3/8 in.
0.70 m
<
Span = 3 m or 3.5 m
Span = 4 m
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø8mm
<
<
0.20 m 0.80 m
0.80 m
0.70 m
>
0.70 m
1Ø3/8 in.
1Ø 8 mm
Span = 4 m
0.80 m 0.30 m
>
0.80 m
1Ø1/2 in.
1Ø8 mm
1Ø3/8 in.
0.70 m
>
0.70 m
<
1Ø 8 mm
0.70 m
Span = 4 m
Recommendations
If you have to build lightweight with long spans, consult an engineer. Lightweight slabs of great
spans must be adequately designed to ensure their strength and safety.
42
>
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Pipes in lightweight slab
Water and drainage pipes must not cross lightweight slab joists.
parallel to roof bricks alignment.
Pipe paths should be
YES
NO
Correct piping location
Incorrect piping location
Pipe
Pipes must not cut
roof joists.
Joist
Roof bricks
Roof bricks
Joist
Pipe
cm le
20 oub t
D ois
j
Do not place light
centers in the
joists.
If you cannot
prevent pipes from
crossing joists, place a
double joist in the
crossing area.
Place light
centers in the roof
bricks.
Recomendation
Find out in your area which entities provide public water and drainage service as well as electric
service and ask about the procedures you must follow so that your house can have connection to the
public water and drainage system and access to an electrical connection.
43
Before pouring the slab
Before you pour the concrete slabs, verify that all water and drainage pipes do not leak.
Lid
Verify
connections
Drainage post
Temporarily block the pipes
with a lid and leave open only one end.
Fill the pipe with water and after 4 hours
verify that all pipe connections are dry and that
there has not been any water leakage. In water
pipelines, it is advantageous to make this leakage test
under pressure.
Lid
Place a wooden board to
walk over. Do not
step directly
over the
bricks.
Once again verify
that the forms are level,
and verify that the vertical posts
have not moved or lost stability.
44
To start pouring slabs, first
wet the bricks and the
beams formwork.
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
Pouring slabs and beams
Fill the lightweight slab and beams simultaneously because it is important that they work
together. Start pouring collar beams, then joists and finally the upper slab. It is better
you rent a mixer. This will help reduce the pouring time for your slab and save materials.
You must be very careful if you use a
vibrator. The vibrator must be inside
the concrete in a vertical position
for a minimum of 3 seconds
without touching the
steel bars.
Wooden
board
It is desirable to use a
vibrator during pouring of
slabs and beams. In case it is
not possible, carefully use a
rod to manually
vibrate the
concrete.
Pour the
concrete
carefully
and try not
to step over
water or
electric pipes.
Use buckets to carry concrete
from the mixer to the beams or slabs.
Concrete for beams and
slabs
1 bucket of cement
2 buckets of coarse
sand
While pouring
beams, lightly
hit the form
laterally with
a rubber hammer to prevent
the formation of air pockets
in the concrete.
stone
(maximum size 3/4 in.)
1 bucket of water
Recomendation
Once the concrete slab is finished, the formwork must remain in place to support the slab for
at least 14 days.
45
Prepare wooden pieces 5 cm wide to use
them as guides while finishing the
upper slab.
Use a wooden or metal straightedge
to smooth and flatten the concrete
mix. Once you have reached
the desired level, remove
the wooden guides and
fill the holes with
concrete.
Constantly
verify that the
slab surface is level.
L/3
L
Partial pouring of the slab
If you must stop
pouring concrete in
the slab, make the
construction joint near
the ends of the slab.
Never make the
construction joint at
the center of the slab.
Curing the slab
The slab must be constantly cured.
Curing must start as soon as possible.
Do not wait until the next day to
start. Form closed areas
limited by sand piles over
the slab and fill them with
water. You must cure the
slab for at least 7 days.
Do not
wait until the
next day to start curing.
Do not work over the slab
for at least 2 days after pouring.
46
A SAFEHAZARDS
HOUSE
10
Variable with
minimum 1 m
Stairs
Typical detail of two-span stairs
30 cm
cm
60
First span
13 cm
Ø3/8”@20 cm
Minimum
25 cm
cm
60
Thickness = 13 cm
Wall
Ø3/8 in. @20 cm
Maximum
18.5 cm
Ø3/8 in. @30 cm
Slab on grade
70 cm
Minimum concrete covering = 2cm
50 cm
Second span
Ø3/8 in. @20 cm
Beam or
supporting
wall
60
cm
Thickness = 13 cm
Ø3/8 in. @30 cm
Concrete for stairs
60
cm
Ø3/8 in. @20 cm
Wall
13 cm
30 cm
Variable with
minimum 1 m
1 bucket of cement
2 buckets of coarse
sand
5 cm long pipes
4 buckets of 3/4 in.
crushed stone
1 bucket of water
For installation of the
stair handrail, leave 2 electrical
conduits 1/2 in. diameter and 5 cm
long in the formwork of each step.
Recomendation
When you pour stairs be careful to see that all reinforcing bars have adequate concrete cover.
47
CAPITULO
MAINTAINING YOUR HOUSE
4
CHAPTER
This chapter contains recommendations
for the maintenance and solution of some
problems typical brick houses. If the
problems or defects of your house are
more serious, such as foundation
settlement or severe cracking of walls or
concrete elements, we suggest that you
consult an engineer to solve them.
1 Cracked walls
Cracks or fissures in walls may have
several causes, such as use of
poor-quality materials, inadequate
constructive practices, deficient structure
with too few confined walls in both
directions or inadequate foundation over
soft or loose soils. If your house has
been poorly constructed and has some of
these defects, it is possible that many
of its elements will fail when an
earthquake occurs.
Frequent cracks types in brick
house walls
Repair of wall cracks
If any wall of your house has diagonal
cracks not more than 1.5 mm thick and
the concrete of beams and columns is not
severely damaged, you can repair the
wall in the following way:
Remove
mortar from
cracked joints
and eliminate
all loose
material. Try
not to hit nearby bricks.
Clean
cracked joints
thoroughly
with
pressurized water.
Let water
drain during 15 minutes.
Diagonal cracks
Corner
cracks
Flexural
cracks
Refill the joint
with new 1:4
(cement:sand) mortar.
Apply and compact
the mortar until you
completely fill the joint.
Recommendation
If the walls of your house are severely cracked or have significant vertical cracks at the corners, it is
possible that your house is in danger. Get professional assistance as soon as possible to solve the
problem.
48
NATURAL
MAINTAINING
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
Replacement of deteriorated bricks
If any wall has broken or deteriorated bricks, you
can replace them in the following way:
Deteriorated brick
Carefully remove
the damaged brick.
Clean up the
mortar that
remains in
the hole.
Get a new
good quality
brick to
replace the
removed brick.
The new brick
must be the same
size as the
damaged brick.
Thoroughly we the bricks in the
wall adjacent to the new brick and
place new 1:4 (cement:sand) mortar
along the edges of the hole.
Carefully place the new brick.
To finish, fill any remaining spaces
around the new brick with mortar.
Recommendations
If you need to replace more than one deteriorated brick, start with the lowest brick.
You can cut the new bricks so that they fit better in the openings left by the damaged bricks.
49
2 Corrosion of reinforcing steel
When concrete covering is too thin or has
air pockets and fissures through which
moisture penetrates, corrosion of the
steel reinforcement is produced. You can
prevent this problem if you carefully
construct the beams and columns
of your house.
Thoroughly clean the
rusted bar with a steel
brush. To eliminate
residues softly
sandpaper
the steel.
Air pockets
Exposed steel
If beam and column steel reinforcement in
your house is not too corroded, you can
repair the problem the following way:
Apply cement paste to
old concrete so that
new concrete will easily adhere.
Carefully break all
deteriorated concrete
until you get a rugh
undamaged surface.
50
Completely fill the hole left by
the removed concrete
with 1:4
(cement:sand)
mortar.
Carefully align
the surface
of the new
concrete
with the existing
surface. Cure the new
concrete for 7 days
watering it every 8 hours.
MAINTAININGNATURAL
YOUR HAZARDS
HOUSE
3
Efflorescence
Efflorescence is a white or yellowish
deposit that appears in brick or concrete
walls. Efflorescence appears when
construction materials or foundation soils
contains salts that are dissolved in water.
Water raises through the wall until it
reaches the surface and then evaporates,
leaving salts crystals at the wall surface as
stains.
Prepare a cleaning solution with one
volume of hydrochloric acid and 20
volumes of water. Apply the solution
to the wall with a paintbrush
and let it stand for
15 minutes.
Never put
more hydrochloric
acid because it is
extremely
corrosive.
Wall efflorescence
Moderate efflorescence does not affect
wall strength.
Rinse the wall surface with abundant
water.
To clean walls with moderate
efflorescence you can do the following:
If your ground soil or your wall are damp or
are subject to moisture intrusion, it is possible
that efflorescence will reappear.
Clean the affected
area with abundant
water and a strong brush.
Recomendation
Try to prevent moisture penetration into the walls of your house so that efflorescence will not
appear again.
51
4
Wall moisture
Damp walls are almost always caused
by leaking water pipes.
To repair water leakages and thus
prevent moisture accumulation in your
walls, you can do the following:
Shut off the main water valve to your house
so that water does not pass through
the damaged pipe.
Remove the damaged
element
(accessory)
or damaged
portion
of pipe.
Break the
wettest surface
of the wall until
you find the
leaking pipe.
Replace the damaged elements
with new ones. Let the new
connections dry completely.
Wait a couple of days to
verify that there
are no more
leakages.
Patch the wall with mortar
(cement:sand) 1:5.
Thoroughly clean
the pipe and locate the
place where it is leaking.
A broken pipe or a
defective connection
between pipes or
accessories can cause
leaking.
52
NATURALHAZARDS
5
CAPITULO 5
CAPITULO
PLANS FOR YOUR HOUSE
CHAPTER
1 Why are drawings useful?
Before you start construction you must
WHO CAN
HELP ME
have drawings which show the
DESIGN
appearance of your house to be and how
MY HOUSE?
you will build it. Architectural drawings
are scaled representations of how your
THE BEST IS TO
house will look, how many rooms it has
CONSULT AN ARCHITECT OR
and how they are located. Structural
AN ENGINEER. IF YOU DO NOT
HAVE A PROFESSIONAL HANDY,
drawings indicate the locations and
YOU CAN CONSULT THE NEAREST
dimensions of the bearing walls, slabs
MUNICIPALITY.
roof reinforcement and dimensions
and steel reinforcement of beams and
WHICH
YOU NEED TO HAVE
DRAWINGS
columns. Finally, mechanical, electrical
THE FOLLOWING DRAWINGS:
DO I NEED?
and plumbing drawings show the
1)ARCHITECTURAL DRAWINGS
route of water and sewage pipes
(PLAN VIEW AND MAIN ELEVATION)
2) STRUCTURAL DRAWINGS
and of electric conduits.
(FOUNDATION AND ROOFS)
3) MECHANICAL,ELECTRICAL AND
PLUMBING DRAWINGS
Drawings are
useful because:
They help you determine
if your house will satisfy your
present and future family
requirements.
They permit you evaluate
precisely the cost of materials
necessary for construction.
They enable you to
program construction stages of
the house according to your
economic resources.
They enable you to
program accurately the
construction of each stage,
eliminating improvisation. This
way later you will not regret a
poor design that will cause
demolition or alteration of
walls or require changing the
position of doors.
53
2
The design of your house
A well-designed house has the following
characteristics:
It is earthquake-resistant. To achieve
this it must have a sufficient quantity of
confined walls in both directions (See
Chapter 2 and Appendix).
It responds to your family’s present
and future needs.
It is easily constructed in stages.
All rooms have natural illumination and
ventilation.
Bedrooms are well located, far from
the noisiest areas, such as kitchen, dining
and living rooms.
It has a patio or laundry.
It has a garden where you and your
family can grow flowers, trees or
vegetables.
Houses with gardens.
54
Kitchens and bathrooms
with natural illumination
and ventilation.
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
3
Sample house plans
Sample Plan 1: Corner house
Here is a two-story house plan for a 8m x 8m ground corner property.
8.00
First floor
2.20
2.10
1.95
3.85
Patio
Bathroom
Kitchen
Closet
2.00
8.00
3.90
Dining room
Living room
Second floor
Bathroom
Bedroom
Bedroom
Bedroom
Architectural drawings
Scale 1:100
55
Sample plan 2: House between party walls
8.00
This is a two-story
house plan for a
8m x 20 m ground
property between
party walls. In this
house it is possible
to use one of the
first-floor rooms as
workshop or store
(if your area zoning
allows for it).
3.79
3.79
3.63
Garden
3.64
Laundry
Terrace
2.00
20.00
4.00
Kitchen-dining room
Multiple use
0.80
2.10
Closet
Bathroom
Living-dining room
5.00
Architectural drawing
First floor
Scale 1:100
56
Multiple use
PLANS FOR
NATURAL
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
Bedroom
Bedroom
Bathroom
Bedroom
Bedroom
Second floor
Scale 1:100
57
Sample plan 3: House between party walls
Here is a two story house plan where a different family can
live on each floor. This house has all the drawings
necessary to build it over hard soil (rock or gravel).
Remember it has been designed to have only
two floors.
58
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
Main elevation
0.25
2.40
5.45
0.25
2.40
0.15
Section A-A
0.25
Opening schedule
Width Height Sill height
2.40
0.90
5.45
0.25
2.40
D-1
D-2
D-3
D-4
D-5
W-1
W-2
W-3
1.00
0.80
0.70
1.00
1.00
2.00
1.20
0.60
2.20
2.40
2.40
2.40
2.40
1.30
1.30
0.60
0
0
0
0
0
0.90
0.90
1.00
0.15
Rear elevation
0.25
1.50
0.90
5.45
0.25
2.40
Section
Elevations
0.15
Scale 1:100
59
8.00
3.45
4.00
Garden
2.55
+- 0.00
Terrace
Laundry
2.15
+ 0.15
D4
W2
W2
4.25
Bedroom
Kitchen-dining room
D2
D5
Ventilation duct
2.55
W3 Bathroom
Dining room
D3
D2
Bedroom
Living room
+ 0.15
W2
D1
A
First floor
Scale 1:100
60
W1
A'
+-
5.50
0.00
+ 0.15
3.50
20.00
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
8.00
4.00
3.45
2..55
Terrace
Laundry
W2
D4
2.15
W2
4.25
Bedroom
Kitchen-dining room
D2
D5
2.55
W3 Bathroom
20.00
Dining room
D3
D2
Bedroom
Living room
+
W2
2.80
D1
5.50
W1
Balcony
3.50
Second floor
Scale 1:100
61
+ 5.45
Roof floor
Scale 1:100
62
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
Construction
by stages
You can build this house in
several stages. For example,
you could build the house in
5 stages according to this
sequence:
Bathroom
Bedroom
Garden
Terrace
Laundry
Bedroom
Kitchen
Dining room
Living room
First stage
Second stage
Garden
Third stage
Bathroom
Bedroom
Terrace
Laundry
Bedroom
Kitchen
Dining room
Living room
Balcony
Fourth stage
Fifth stage
Scale 1:200
63
3.74
4.26
4.00
8
2.55
7
2.15
6
3
C-6
3
C-6
3
3
3
C-6
2
C-5
2
1
C-1
4
3
4
C-2
1
4
1
C-6
C-1
1
3
2.15
C-1
1
1
1
2cm joint
C-6
2
3
C-3
4
3
C-6
4
4
3
C-1
2.55
3
2cm joint
1
4.25
C-6
3
2
C-6
3
3
3
SOG + 0.10
3
4.25
1,49
5
20.00
C-4
4
1
C-4
4
2
2.55
4
1
C-4
Foundation
widening
1
1
1
4
C-1
4
C-4
1
2
C-6
2.55
3
3
4
C-4
2
C-6
C-1
4
SOG + 0.10
2
2.40
2
1
3
1
3
Scale 1:100
64
2.60
C-6
3
3
1
1.37
1
C-1
C-6
3
Foundation drawing
3
C-1
2cm joint
4
C-1
C-3 4
1
2.40
C-2
3
C-1
1
1.00
1.12
1.26
C-6
3.50
3
3
3
C-6
C-6
A
1
C-5
Stair
foundation
3.50
1
3
1
C-6
3
3
1.04
2.60
3
C-4
3.74
B
C-6
3
4.26
C
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
NATURAL
0.14
0.24
Grade + 0.10 m
0.15
0.10
0.10
0.80
Grade + 0.10 m
0.15
0.10
0.10
0.80
0.50
0.50
SECTION 1-1
SECTION 2-2
0.14
0.15
0.10
0.10
Grade + 0.10 m
Grade +- 0.00
Grade + 0.10 m
0.15
0.10
0.10
0.80
0.80
0.40
SECTION 3-3
0.50
SECTION 4-4
Foundation detail drawing
Scale 1:25
65
COLUMN SCHEDULE
C-1
C-3
C-2
0.24 x 0.25
0.24 x 0.40
0.24 x 0.24
4 ø 3/8 in.
6 ø 1/2 in.
Typical stirrups
Typical stirrups
4 ø 3/8 in.
Typical stirrups
C-5
C-6
0.24 x 0.25
0.24 x 0.24
0.14 x 0.25
4 ø 1/2 in.
4 ø 1/2 in.
Typical stirrups
4 ø 3/8 in.
Typical stirrups
C-4
Typical stirrups
Typical stirrups
ø 1/4 in. [email protected] + [email protected] + [email protected]
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
PLAIN CONCRETE:
FOUNDATION:
Cement, aggregate 1:10 + 30% clean large stones, maximum size 10 in.
PLINTH:
Cement, aggregate 1:8 + 25% clean medium size stone, maximum size 4 in.
REINFORCED CONCRETE:
Concrete:
Columns,beams, slabs
Steel
f'c = 175 kg/cm 2
fy = 4200 kg/cm2
LIVE LOAD:
First-floor roof
200 kg/m2
Second-floor roof
100 kg/m 2
MORTAR:
Cement : coarse sand
1:5
Joint thickness
1.00 cm
BRICK TYPE:
Structural, good quality
CONCRETE COVER REQUIREMENTS:
66
Confining columns
2.5 cm
0.40 m columns
Confining beams
Flat beams and lightweight slabs
Deep beams
3.0 cm
2.5 cm
2.5 cm
3.0 cm
PLANS FOR
NATURAL
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
0.25
0.20
0.25
Second-floor slab
[email protected]
[email protected]
2.40
Rest @ 0.25
[email protected]
[email protected]
0.20
First-floor slab
[email protected]
[email protected]
2,30
Rest @ 0.25
[email protected]
[email protected]
0.15
0.35
Plinth
0.15
0.10
Assembly stirrups
@0.25
0.80
Continuous footing
Column detail
0.25
0.25
Scale 1:25
67
8
2.55
CB-2
C
1
0.50
1
2
2
1
1
1
0.50
1
2
2
1
0.70
0.30 0.70
1ø3/8in.
4.25
TB1
Rises
Pa
See parapet
connection
detail
1
1ø8mm
6
Rises
Pa
B1(.24x.40)
A
0.70 0.30
0.80
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in. 1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
0,70
CB-1
3
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
4
6
1ø3/8in.
2
3
1ø3/8in.
2 4
B
0.80
0.70 0.30
1ø3/8in. 1ø3/8in. 1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
5
4
0.70
5
CB-1
3
3
0.70
CB-2
3
3
4
B4(.24x.40)
0.20 0.40
0.60
4
2.60
6
7
4
CB-2
2.55
7
CB-2
20.00
4
3
5
Duct,only
joists pass
CB-2
CB-2
0.70
CB-2
CB-2
2.15
Rises0.50
Pa
1ø8mm
7
Rises
B1(.24x.40) Pa
1ø8mm
Rises
Pa
A
TB1
TB1
0.80
0.70 0.30
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1
1
1
1
1
1 8
0.70
B2(.24x.40)
B2
3.50
0.70
0.50
8
D
1ø3/8in.
2
1ø3/8in.
CB-2
0.30 0.70
1ø3/8in.
Solid slab
B3(.24x.40)
CB-2
0.70
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
2.40
CB-2
CB-1
See stairs
1.00
1
A
Slab formwork drawing
First floor - Scale 1:100
68
3.74
B
8.00
4.26
C
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
8
2.55
7
2.15
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
0.70
CB-1
6
7
2
3
1ø3/8in.
2 4
3
3
B
0.80
0.70 0.30
1ø3/8in. 1ø3/8in. 1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
5
0.70
0.70
5
CB-2
4
CB-1
3
3
4
4
B4(.24x.40)
6
0.20 0.40
1ø3/8in. 1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
4
4
CB-2
7
0.60
4
2.60
1ø3/8in. 1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
0.70
3
CB-2
2.55
0.80
1ø3/8in.
3
5
Duct, only
joists pass
A
0.70 0.30
1ø3/8in.
CB-2
4.25
A
TB1
TB1
CB-1
0.30 0.70
0.80
0.70 0.30
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
1ø3/8in.
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
0.70
B2
1ø3/8in.
CB-2
0.70
1ø3/8in.
0.70
0.50
B2(.24x.40)
CB-2
2.40
CB-2
20.00
0.30 0.70
1ø3/8in.
CB-2
0.70
1ø3/8in.
CB-2
6
3.50
1
A
3.74
B
8.00
4.26
C
Slab formwork drawing
Second floor - Scale 1:100
69
4Ø1/2in.
4Ø3/8in.
Ø1/4in.:[email protected],
rest @ 0.15
4Ø3/8in.
Ø1/4in.:[email protected],
[email protected], rest @ 0.25
Beam details
Scale 1:25
70
typ
See Section 1-1
2Ø1/2in.
B2-(0.24 x 0.40)
Ø1/4in.:[email protected],[email protected],[email protected]
2Ø1/2in.
B1-(0.24 x 0.40)
Ø1/4in.:[email protected],[email protected]
2Ø1/2in.
Ø1/4in.:[email protected], [email protected], rest@ .25
2Ø1/2in.
Ø1/4in.:[email protected],[email protected]
typ
Ø1/4in.:[email protected], [email protected], rest@ .25
2Ø1/2in.
2Ø1/2in.
PLANS FOR
NATURAL
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
typ
typ
typ
typ = typical
Scale 1:25 and 1:50
Beam details
71
72
Beam details
Scale 1:25 and 1:50
Continues CB-1
B4-(0.24 x 0.40)
1'
1'
1'
1'
Continues CB-1
typ
2Ø1/2"
2Ø1/2in.
B3-(0.24 x 0.40)
2Ø1/2in.
2Ø3/8in.
typ
typ
typ
typ = typical
PLANS FOR
NATURAL
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
0.30
B2
FFL=+2.75
ø3/[email protected]
B3
0.60
0.20
Slab
SECOND SPAN
Hook
3Ø3/8in.
6ø3/[email protected]
Stretcher wall
0.60
0.13
filled step
0.13
6Ø3/8in.@ 0.20
6Ø3/8in.
typical 0.30
1.00
1.00
Filled step
0.60
typical 0.30
0.13
FIRST SPAN
0.72
6Ø3/8in.
0.176
0,13
0.80
0.26
0,14
Slab on grade
Grade +0.10
0.50
0.70
Stair detail
0.50
Scale 1:25
73
1/2in.
1/2in.
1/2in.
1/2in.
1/2in.
3/4in.
3/4in. pipe goes up
3/4in.
3/4in.
From main water system
Plumbing - water supply drawings
74
From main water system
PLANS FOR
NATURAL
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
1/2in.
1/2in.
1/2in.
1/2in.
1/2in.
3/4in. pipe arrives
Plumbing - water supply drawings
75
PVC SAP ø2in.
R.B. 10in. x 20in.
ø 4in.
ø 4in.
ø 4in.
ø 2in.
L.L.= 0.00
B.L.= - 0.40
=1
.0
%
ø 2in.
Sl
op
e
2in. ventilation
pipe goes up
PVC SAP ø4in.
Slope=1.0%
R.B. 10in. x 20in.
L.L.= 0.00
B.L.= - 0.60
N.P.C. ø6in.
To public sewer system
Plumbing-sanitary sewer drawings
76
PV
C
SA
P
ø
4in. drainage
pipe enters
2i
n.
P
Sl VC
S
op
e= AP
1.0 ø
% 2in
.
PVC SAP ø2in.
P
Sl VC
op SA
e= P
1.0 ø
% 2in
.
2in. drainage
pipe enters
2in. ventilation
pipe goes up
2in. drainage
pipe enters
2in. ventilation
pipe goes up
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
ø 2in.
2in. drainage
pipe comes down
2in. ventilation
pipe goes up
2in. drainage
pipe comes down
ø 2in.
2in. drainage
pipe comes down
2in. ventilation
pipe goes up
ø 2in.
2in. ventilation
pipe goes up
ø 2in.
ø 4in.
ø 2in.
Plumbing-sanitary sewer drawings
77
c
d
2Sc,d
T-1
S
S
S 3b
S
b
Doorbell goes up
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
S
Phone line enters
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
b
TV antenna enters
TV
2Sa,3b
TV
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
Network feeder goes up
S
a
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
First floor meter Wh Wh Second floor meter
Electrical drawings
First floor
Scale 1:100
78
FROM ELECTRIC NET SYSTEM
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
c
d
2Sc,d
T-2
S
S
S 3b
S
b
Arrives doorbell
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
S
Phone line enters
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
b
TV antenna enters
TV
2Sa,3b
TV
a
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
Network feeder enters
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
Electrical drawings
Second floor
Scale 1:100
79
Plumbing component legend
WATER SUPPLY LEGEND
SYMBOL
M
DRAINAGE LEGEND
DESCRIPTION
SYMBOL
DESCRIPTION
DRAINAGE PIPE
WATER METER
VENTILLATION PIPE
COLD WATER PIPE
45º ELBOW
RIGHT ANGLE BEND
SIMPLE SANITARY "Y"
45º ELBOW
DOUBLE SANITARY "Y"
RIGHT ANGLE BEND GOES UP
"P" TRAP
T
REGISTER BOX 12" x 24"
STRAIGHT T WITH RISE
UNIVERSAL JOINT
FLOOR BRONZE THREADED
REGISTER
GLOBE VALVE
FLOOR DRAIN
CONCENTRIC REDUCER
CHECK VALVE
SPRINKLING VALVE
Electrical component legend
UNIFILAR DIAGRAM T-1 Y T-2.
C-1
Wh
From public power grid
80
2 x 15 A
C-2 2 x 15 A
30A
2 - 1 x 10mm2 THW
Ø 20 mm PVC-SAP
To ground pit
See detail
C-3 2 x 15 A
2-1 x 2.5mm2 TW
Ø 15mm PVC-L
LIGHTING
2-1 x 2.5mm2 TW + 1 x 2.5mm2/T
Ø 15mm PVC-L
OUTLET
Ø 15mm PVC-L
RESERVE
NATURAL
PLANS FOR
YOURHAZARDS
HOUSE
L
E
G
E
SYMBOL
N
D
DESCRIPTION
WALL LIGHTING OUTLET
WALL OCTOGONAL PULL BOX OF GALVANIZED IRON (G.I.)
FºGº 100 x 30 h=2.20 OVER FINISHED FLOOR LEVEL
P
SQUARE PULL BOX (G.I.) 100 x 30
ROOF LIGHTING OUTLET IN OCTOGONAL BOX 100 x 30
BIPOLAR DOUBLE OUTLET WITH UNIVERSAL TYPE CLOVIS G.I. BOX
100 x.55 x 28 h= .30/1.10 OVER FINISEHED FLOOR LEVEL RESPECTIVELY
ELECTRIC DISTRIBUTION SWITCHBOARD, UPPER EDGE h=1.80
OVER FINISHED FLOOR LEVEL
Wh
S
2S
S3
.
FOR INSTALLATION OF KHW METER
3S
ONE-POLE SIMPLE, DOUBLE, TRIPLE SWITCH IN G.I. BOX 100 x 53 x 28 h = 1.20
COMMUTATION SWITCH IN 100 x 43 x 28 BOX, h = 1.20
DOORBELL PUSH BUTTON IN 100 x 53 x 28 BOX, h = 1.20
EXTERNAL TELEPHONE WALL OUTLET IN 100 x 53 x 28 BOX, h = 1.20
DOORBELL IN G.I. OCTOGONAL 100 x 55 x 28 BOX, h = 1.20 OVER FINISHED
FLOOR LEVEL WITH 220v 60 Hz Ø 20mm PVC-SEL TRANSFORMER
WALL OR ROOF EMBEDDED PIPING, Ø INDICATED IN UNIFILAR DIAGRAM
FLOOR EMBEDDED PIPING, Ø INDICATED IN UNIFILAR DIAGRAM
FLOOR EMBEDDED PIPING, Ø 15 mm TELEPHONE
X
FLOOR EMBEDDED PIPING, Ø 15 mm TV
FLOOR EMBEDDED PIPING, Ø 15 mm DOORBELL
TV
TV ANTENNA OUTLET and/or CABLE, G.I. 100 x 55 x 28 BOX, h = .30
GROUND PIT
Concrete lid 0.40 x 0.40 x 0.05 m
Frame with 0.05 x 0.05 x 0.08 m
.10
Concrete parapet
Ground conducter bare Cu
.40
PVC - SAP tube
Ground pit detail
Cooper connector contact lenght
throughout the ground rod
3.00
Magnesium sulfate - topsoil
SO4 Mg SANKGEL
Cooper rod min Ø15 mm L=3.00 m
.80
Resistance < 0.25 ohm
81
REFERENCES
- Arnold C. y Reitherman R. 1987. Configuración y diseño sísmico de edificios
(Configuration and seismic design of buildings). Editorial Limusa. México.
- Lesur L. 2001. Manual de albañilería y autoconstrucción I y II (Handbook of
masonry and self construction I and II). Editorial Trillas. México.
- San Bartolomé A. 1994. Construcciones de albañilería –Comportamiento sísmico y
diseño estructural (Masonry constructions – Seismic behaviour and structural design).
Fondo Editorial de la PUCP. Lima, Perú.
- Servicio Nacional de Aprendizaje. 2003. Construcción de casas sismorresistentes de
uno y dos pisos (Construction of seismic resistant houses of one and two floors).
Universidad Nacional de Colombia. Colombia.
82
NATURALHAZARDS
APPENDIX
1 Quantity of walls in an earthquake-resistant house
Your house has to have an
adequate number of confined
walls in both directions in order
to resist earthquakes.
Vulnerable house
Few confined walls in the direction
parallel to the street.
Earthquake
Earthquake
HOW
CAN I CALCULATE
HOW MANY CONFINED
WALLS I MUST
HAVE IN EACH
DIRECTION?
THE REQUIRED
NUMBER OF WALLS
DEPENDS ON THE TYPE
OF SOIL WHERE
YOU WILL BUILD
YOUR HOUSE
Resistant house
Adequate quantity of confined
walls in both directions
Earthquake
Earthquake
83
Wall calculations
To calculate the number of walls needed for a house with a
maximum of two stories, follow the indicated steps:
Classify the soil of the place where you will build
your house. On page 22 you can learn how to
determine the soil type.
Determine the minimum wall density needed in
each direction, according to your soil type. Use the
following table:
Type
of soil
Hard
Description
Rock
Gravel
Intemediate Hard clayish
Blando
sand
Soft or
loose
Loose sand
Soft clay
Minimum
wall density
required
(%)
1.0%
1.2%
1.4%
Calculate the roof area covering each floor in square meters.
Calculate the required horizontal area of confined walls for each floor.
REQUIRED
HORIZONTAL AREA
OF CONFINED WALLS
IN 1st FLOOR
REQUIRED
HORIZONTAL AREA
OF CONFINED WALLS
IN 2nd FLOOR
84
=
=
MINIMUM
WALL DENSITY
100
MINIMUM
WALL DENSITY
100
x
ROOF COVERED AREA 1st FLOOR
+
ROOF COVERED AREA 2nd FLOOR
x
ROOF COVERED AREA 2nd FLOOR
NATURAL
APPENDIX
HAZARDS
Example
Suppose that your house will be
constructed over a compact gravelcoarse sand soil and that it will have 70
m² of roof covering area in the first
floor and 50 m² in the second floor.
Wall density required for hard soil is
1%.
To calculate the horizontal wall area
needed in the first floor, consider the
roof covering areas of the first and
second floors. That is, the wall area
required by the first floor will be:
Required horizontal area Floor 1
(1/100) x (70 + 50 m2) = (1/100) x 120 m2 = 1,20m2
To calculate the horizontal wall area necessary in the
second floor, you only have to consider the roof area
covering the second floor. That is, the wall area
required for the second floor will be:
Required horizontal area Floor 2
(1/100) x (50 m2) = 0,5 m2
Verify that the total horizontal area of confined walls in your house in each
direction is greater than the required area. In the evaluation only include walls
made of structural brick whose length is greater than 1 meter and that are confined by
reinforced concrete beams and columns. Do not include walls less than 1 meter in
length. Also do not include unconfined walls or partition walls because these elements
are not capable of resisting earthquakes. For each direction of your house
evaluate the area of each confined wall and then add up the areas of all
the walls. To calculate the horizontal area of each wall in m² multiply
its length in meters by its thickness in meters.
th
ng
Le
Example
Horizontal wall area
3 m x 0,14 m = 0,42 m
2
Thichness
14 cm = 0,14 m
Then verify that the horizontal
area of confined walls in every
floor of your house and for each
direction is greater than the
required area that you calculated
in the previous step.
Total horizontal wall area (m²) > Required horizontal area (m²)
85
Example of wall calculation in the direction parallel to the street
As an example, we will analyze the house proposed in Chapter 5. This house is located
over hard soil and has 115.7 m² of roof area covering in the first floor and 98.7 m²
covering the second floor, which gives a total roof covering area of 214.4 m².
For this soil type, the required
wall density in each direction is
1%. Therefore, the quantity of
walls for our first floor has to be:
W7
1 x 214.4 m² = 2.14 m²
0.14
100
1.50
W5
We will calculate the areas of
our confined walls:
W6
0.24
1.50
1.50
2.82
0.24
3.14
0.24
W3
W4
W1=
W2=
W3=
W4=
W5=
W6=
W7=
1.50
2.82
2.82
3.14
1.50
1.50
1.50
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
0.24
0.24
0.24
0.24
0.24
0.24
0.14
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
0.36
0.68
0.68
0.75
0.36
0.36
0.24
m²
m²
m²
m²
m²
m²
m²
The total confined wall area is
3,43 m² which is greater than
2.14 m², so we have satisfied
minimum wall density.
Remember that these walls
have to be confined in all
four sides.
W2
0.24
2.82
Recommendation
It is desirable to have several walls
longer than 2.70 m
How many of the required walls
must be long depends on the type of
soil where your house is located:
W1
0.24
1.50
Hard soil
At least three walls must be
longer than 2.70 m.
Intermediate or soft soil
At least four walls must be longer
than 2.70 m.
86
NATURAL
HAZARDS
APPENDIX
2
Concrete Types
Primary plastering
Scratch coat
1 bucket of cement
5 buckets of
coarse sand
Add water
until the mix
is workable
Reinforced concrete elements:
columns, beams, slabs, stairs
Secondary plastering
Finish coat
1 bucket of cement
5 buckets of
coarse sand
1 bucket of cement
2 buckets of
coarse sand
4 buckets of
¾in. crushed stone
Add water
until the mix
is workable
1 bucket of
water
Slab on grade
1 bucket of cement
9 buckets of mixed
gravel/coarse sand
Plain concrete for
foundation
1 bucket of cement
10 buckets of mixed
gravel/coarse sand
30% large stones
(maximum size 10in.)
1 1/2 buckets of
water
1 1/4 buckets of
water
Plain concrete for plinth
1 bucket of cement
Mortar to lay
bricks
1 bucket of cement
5 buckets of
coarse sand
Add water
until the mix
is workable
8 buckets of
aggregate
25% medium size
stones (maximum
size 4in.)
1 1/4 buckets of
water
Recommendation
Moisten all aggregates the previous day.
87
3 Schedule of
material quantities
The quantities of materials
shown includes 3% loss.
Continuous
footing
Simple
plinth
Reinforced
plinth
Columns,
confining
beams and
slab
88
WITH THIS TABLE
YOU CAN CALCULATE THE
QUANTITY OF MATERIALS
NECESSARY FOR
CONSTRUCTION
Required
material
Quantity of
material
for 1 m³
Cement
2.8 bags
Mixed gravel
/coarse sand
0.90 m³
Big
stone (10in.)
0.32 m³
Water
116 liters
Cement
3.7 bags
Mixed gravel
/coarse sand
1.00 m³
Medium size
stone (4in.)
0.26 m³
Water
124 liters
Cement
Coarse sand
=
X
=
X
=
X
=
X
=
7.2 bags
0.44 m³
Crushed
stone(3/4in.)
0.9 m³
Water
175 liters
Cement
X
m³
in my
house
7,2 bags
Coarse sand
0.44 m³
Crushed
stone(3/4in.)
0.9 m³
Water
175 liters
Quantity of
material
needed for
my house
APPENDIX
NATURAL
HAZARDS
Slab on grade
(10 cm
thickness)
Required
material
Quantity of
material
for 1m²
Cement
0.4 bags
Mixed gravel
/coarse sand
Water
Header
wall
Cement
Coarse sand
Jumbo cored
utility brick
(10x14x24cm)
Stretcher
wall
Cement
Coarse sand
0.07 m³
0.03 m³
0.04 m³
Crushed
stone (3/4in.)
0.008 m³
Water
17 liters
Hollow
ceiling brick
8.4 units
Hollow
ceiling brick
10.5 units
Hollow
ceiling brick
10.5 units
(12x30x25cm)
=
X
=
X
=
0.63 bags
Coarse sand
(15x30x25cm)
X
0.2 bags
36 units
(15x30x30cm)
=
59 units
Holow clay
tile
Cement
Quantity of
material
needed for
my house
0.4 bags
36 units
(10x12x24cm)
X
=
14 liters
Jumbo cored
utility brick
(10x14x24cm)
Lightweight slab
0.124 m³
X
m²
in my
house
89

English - World Housing Encyclopedia

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