- Margot Lee Shetterly
Transcripción
- Margot Lee Shetterly
work OUT Ready, get set, GO! MR the english speaker’s guide to living in mexico JULY / AUGUST 2008 THE SPORTS ISSUE www.insidemex.com By design Beijing 2008 Olympic Viewers Guide > 24 // Hankering for Authentic Chinese Food? > 23 Photo by Luz Montero How Mexico won and then kept the 1968 Olympics > 14 This Month’s Contributors Green Guide Sian Ka’an Ringside seats >10-11 Blending business with conservation on a Caribbean beach ricardo castillo is a veteran bilingual journalist who has worked for twenty years at major Mexico City dailies Excelsior (in Spanish) and The News (in English). A 1968 graduate of the Columbia School of Journalism, he just finished two years in Las Vegas as a management consultant for the Spanish-language weekly El Mundo. 26 Arts & Culture Olympic architecture in the DF 12 Rumbo a... Health Mérida Going up Watch them roar: Los Leones de Yucatán play ball southern style Training way above sea level at the Centro Ceremonial Otomí 8 25 4 Inbox IMX Letter The thrill of competition 5 Invoices Dan Lund Seeing yourself as the “Other” The Guide G1 Stay fit M C in exico ity Download it at www.insidemex.com [ ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 6 News & Notes Year in Review: 1968 7 Perspective Carlos Hermosillo spots Olympic talent young 10 InsideOut Gold, silver, & bronze CloseUp The Official Boxing Man 14 – 20 Cover By Design: How Mexico won and then kept the 1968 Olympics 23 Taste Chinese food, closer than Beijng 24 – 25 Transitions The Fixer Where to watch the Olympics Health Breathing deeply The Usonian Dream >30 José Fernández RAMOS is a jack-of-all-trades who has found in journalism a way to satisfy his natural curiosity about life, especially meeting people and seeing new places. He also acts as part-time househusband, father of three, indie film and television producer, and business consultant. 28 Real Estate Market Meter: Puerto Vallarta 30 Inside Medi@ Bye-bye “American” 31 The Back Page Farewell: Thorny Robinson Monuments to an era >12 roberto salvador studied graphic design and architecture in San Luis Potosí and has dedicated himself to photography since 1998. His work has appeared in publications in Mexico, the US, Great Britain, Japan, Spain, Holland, South Africa, Russia, and all over Latin America. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION A Taste of the Good Life V i n o s S a n t o T o m a s P r e s e n t s t h e 2008 Ve n d i m i a S ummer in the Santo Tomás Valley is a wonderful time, when the grapes we use to make our wines are ready for harvest. Some, like the Tempranillo grape, ripen early; others, like the Cabernet Sauvignon, take their time and can only be harvested at the very end of the growing season. This is also a time of celebration, when winemakers take the best of the harvest and proudly turn it into excellent Mexican wines, such as our 2004 Único Bodegas de Santo Tomás, which won a silver medal in the 2008 International Wine Competition in Brussels. We invite you to visit us for a personally guided tour of the annual Vendimia festival, to witness the craft of producing some of the world’s finest wine, and to talk with vineyard owners and the best enologists in the field. But the Vendemia is also about enjoyment of all that’s good in life. Experience Baja California’s excellent seafood cuisine and more than 50 varieties of paella; see exhibitions of some of Mexico’s best art, and join us for live music, theatre, and bullfighting, all in one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Schedule of Events Date Event Location Time August 2 Wine and Lobster, with Art Exhibition Rancho San Gabriel in San Antonio de las Minas Noon-9 PM August 9 Lunch, with Bullfight (bulls from the Cuatro Caminos ranch) and concert by Vicente Fernández. Ticket price includes lunch Reserva del Valle de Santo Tomás in el Rancho Los Dolores (26 km outside of Ensenada) Noon-11 PM August 16 Verbena festival with performances by 40 different artists Av. Miramar 656 Zona Centro Ensenada—free entry 6 PM - midnight August 17 Paellas along with presentation from the Baja California Wine Industry Rancho San Gabriel in San Antonio de las Minas 1 PM -10 PM Space is limited so email us today to reserve your place. Email: [email protected], [email protected], or [email protected] Telephone: +52 (55) 9150-6448 in Mexico City or +52 (646) 178-3333 in Ensenada. The Economist The best magazine in the world for anyone interested in the global economy. Delivered by special messenger to your office or doorstep all year! -10% on your subscription for Inside México readers CALL US TODAY!!! tel: 5276.4600 [email protected] For information on more titles: www.todalaprensa.com.mx HOLA ESPAÑA ¡YA REGRESÓ A MÉXICO! Everyone is watching O Aran Shetterly CEO [email protected] Distribuidor Exclusivo de Hola España en México Para recibirla, sólo llámanos: tel: 5276.4600 [email protected] para consultar más títulos: www.todalaprensa.com.mx [ ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 world stage For sports buffs during the 1960s, 70s, and 80s, ABC’s Wide World of Sports was mustsee television. It featured track and field, boxing, cycling, rodeo riding, racecar driving, jai-alai, soccer, and even Acapulco cliff diving. The show brought these varied competitions into US homes, and then to Canada and Mexico. The intro is a pop culture touchstone: a smooth-voiced announcer prepares us for “The thrill of victory…and the agony of defeat,” as a high-flying skier spins and crashes down a mountain slope and through a snow fence. We tuned in every Saturday. The voice was Jim McKay’s. His calm, humanist spirit defined not only Wide World of Sports but also US coverage of the Olympics over the years. McKay, who passed away this June 7th at age 87, hosted the US’s Olympic broadcasts ten times, including the 1968 summer games in Mexico City. Part of what made McKay’s commentary exciting, even if you didn’t fully understand, say, cricket or curling, was that he gave you the story behind the athletes and their almost always improbable, obstacle-filled journey to excellence. And, more often than not, he gently placed these stories into larger social and political contexts. McKay was, after all, the Usonian (see Inside Medi@, page 30) voice of world sports during the Cold War, a sports journalistturned-news correspondent during the hostage crisis at the 1972 Munich Games, N U M B E R 1 9 • july / august 2008 • ¡ENTREGADO EN SU CASA! lympic competition on the Margot Lee Shetterly P resident Catherine Dunn M anaging E ditor Ana Ma. Prado V isual E ditor Jonathan Jucker C opy E ditor Online and the one who had to explain raised fists, bowed heads, and tanks on the streets during Mexico ‘68 (see pages 6 and 14). In this July/August double issue, Inside México takes a look at Olympics past and present, but our focus is on the first and only Latin American Olympics, the event that changed Mexico’s image in the world and the urban landscape of Mexico City. And we’ve taken some tips from Jim McKay as we examine the athletes, their stories, and the elaborate world stage on which they compete. Catherine Dunn’s cover story tells the dramatic tale of how Mexico City won, nearly lost, and then put on the Olympics despite massive disorganization and a student massacre just ten days before the opening ceremony. In fact, as we learn here, Mexico revolutionized the presentation of the Olympics. Politics and protest have always been part of the Olympics. 2008 will be no exception, as some advocates of a Free Tibet have called for a boycott of China’s Games. (For some viewing tips for the ‘08 Games, go to The Fixer, page 24.) Yet, despite all the politics and the theater, when the race official shouts, “On your marks!” the stands go quiet. The anticipation of competition takes hold. We lean forward to witness the magic and inspiration of athletic excellence and courage. See you in September. Aran Shetterly www.insidemex.com • + 5 2 5 5 5 5 7 4 4 2 8 1 • [email protected] Stan Gotlieb Jim Johnston Dan Lund Sue-Ellen Mason Michael Parker-Stainback Interns Enrique Carmona Veronica French Kate Hansen Art Contributors Luz Montero Roberto Salvador Colin McEnearney [email protected] DIGITAL PROCESSING Julio C. González E xecutive P roducer – M ultimedia Shauna Leff ADVERTISING and BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andreas Sjöblom Alejandro Xolalpa, W ebmaster C ommercial D irector Editorial Contributors Ricardo Castillo José Fernández Ramos Nicholas Gilman Maya Harris [email protected] B usiness D evelopment and S upplements [email protected] PR John Boit, Melwood Global, US Editora Responsable Jessica Budd Legal Counsel Luis Fernando González Nieves for Solorzano, Carvajal, González, PérezCorrea S.C. Printed by Compañía Impresora El Universal Distributed by Toda La Prensa, S.A. de C.V. 5276 4600 Derechos reservados © Editorial Manda, S.A.P.I de C.V., Córdoba 146, Colonia Roma, C.P. 06700, México D.F., México 2008. Se prohíbe la reproducción, total o parcial, del contenido de esta publicación, así como también se prohíbe cualquier utilización pública del contenido, como por ejemplo, actos de distribución, transformación y comunicación pública (incluyendo la transmisión pública). Certificado de reservas al uso exclusivo del título: 04-2006-111512075500-102. Certificado de licitud de título: 13674. Certificado de licitud de contenido: 11247 Los artículos aquí contenidos reflejan únicamente la postura de su respectivo autor, y no necesariamente la de Editorial Manda S.A.P.I. de C.V., por lo que dicha empresa no se responsabiliza por lo afirmado por los respectivos autores aquí publicados. Distribution: 60,000 (paper and digital) Coming in December [email protected] Opinion of the host: Mexicans look at the “other” BY Dan Lund Most of us look for mirrors, even if we do not think of ourselves as particularly vain. Reflections are sought in windows and in the eyes of friends and strangers. How we see ourselves and how we are seen go to the core of our identity. As foreigners in Mexico on extended stays of one kind or another, we are seen as “other.” The regional social integration of North America (which in many ways is not even dependent on NAFTA) has provided an ongoing theme for market and policy research. It’s also an opportunity to catch a glimpse of our reflection. For more than a decade, the Mund Group has asked a series of questions about the presence of foreigners in Mexico in our periodic national surveys. The form of the question is purposefully tilted negative, in an attempt to flush out any resentment that might exist: “When you see or hear about the following kinds of foreigners are you bothered—a great deal, some, not at all?” Over the past half-dozen surveys, when we ask about tourists, visiting students, researchers, businesspeople, and journalists, we have found that less than 5 percent are bothered a great deal, and another 7 percent are bothered some. This year we added a new category— “long term foreign residents”—and found the same levels of benign response. There are two categories that provoke a bit more discomfort: missionaries, of all faiths, bother 15 percent of the respondents a great deal, and another 10 percent some. But the winners in the negative race are foreign police (usually DEA agents in the imagination of the respondents). Consistent with the previous studies, this year’s survey shows that 23 percent are bothered a great deal, and another 18 percent some. This is true even after two years of intense media discussion about the public security crisis. Since most of the readers of Inside México fall into one category or another of the least bothersome strangers in the land, we will explore further what Mexicans have said about Canadian and US visitors, and long term residents. However, before we can understand the guests, we need a clear picture of the host. Our working hypothesis, developed over the past thirty years, is that a central feature of Mexican cultural identity is the triangle of family, travel within Mexico to visit family, and the enjoyment of food at the table with family. Mexicans describe this triangle again and again in qualitative studies, and it is what many Mexicans living in the US say they miss most about being away from their country. For Mexicans who have participated in our focus groups, the notion of “family” at the comida table is not exclusive. Interviewees anticipate a groaning board that joins old friends and new. The table isn’t really the “mesa” unless it is a bit crowded. In this context, the invited guest takes on both actual and symbolic significance. For the past couple of years, we have asked Mexicans to imagine particular guests coming to the extended family table, and to describe them. The resulting discussions reflect both a great generosity of spirit, and some conditioned jealousies. A composite image of the US guests (usually envisioned as a couple) runs something like this: they arrive a little late, and are dressed very casually. For some reason, more often than not, people imagine them dressed in blue. They are large people, perhaps a bit overweight. They speak Spanish, often in a loud voice. They carry gifts of food for the hostess, often described as some kind of bread or beef, or even fast food they have picked up to share. However ambiguous these descriptions may seem, the Mexican focus group participants are unabashed in their delight to host the guests. A view of the Canadian guests (also envisioned as a couple) runs in a slightly different direction: they arrive on time, maybe a little early, and are dressed informally, but most likely with a sports jacket for the man and a dress for the woman. For reasons not always clear, people tend to imagine them dressed in brown. They are tall people, healthy and athletic in appearance. They speak Spanish, but in a subdued voice. They carry gifts of food for the hostess, most often identified as delicacies from their country like seafood or maple syrup. The gifts are seen as “fresh.” The descriptions seem rather detailed, even though few of the Mexican participants have ever sat down for a meal with Canadians. We may not be like we are imagined to be. In fact, we often are not quite how we imagine ourselves. However, being seen as the “other”—and in fact being the “other”—is one of those marvelous opportunities in life to gain perspective and see our reflection more clearly. Dan Lund is the president of the MUND Group, a Mexico City-based public opinion and market research firm. Their website is www.mundgroup.com. 25 ’s Expats You’ll Want to Know Help us choose Nominate a powerbroker, a coworker, the local sage, a rambler who tells the best stories. Someone who inspires you. And tell us why we should profile them. They can be any age, live anywhere in Mexico and be from anywhere in the world. Email: [email protected] Inside México Listens In “Some will feel you should not give the Olympic Games to a country until it lives up to a certain standard of human rights. Others will feel awarding the Games may help to liberalize a country.” IOC Vice President Thomas Bach of Germany in 2001 on China hosting the 2008 Olympics. The Chicago Tribune, July 12, 2001. “The Olympics should not be called off. The Chinese people... need to feel proud of it. China deserves to be a host of the Olympic Games.” His Holiness the Dalai Lama on rumors of boycotting the 2008 Olympics. www.timesonline.co.uk, March 16, 2008. “Now the Chinese view the Olympics from a more sensible perspective. It is not merely a carnival, but a symbol for peace, hope and condolences…” From an editorial in the Chinese-language US Qiaobao. www.chinaview.cn, June 19, 2008. “These Mexicans are no pushovers. They have qualified for the Olympics. We’ve met them in Taipei and now they will train in Baguio…” Manny Lopez, president of the Amateur Boxing Association of the Philippines, on the Mexican Olympic boxing team training in the Philippines with the Philippine national team. www.manilastandardtoday.com, June 3, 2008. www.insidemex.com [ ] community happenings Delivered every day to your doorstep A choice off 50,000 19 6 8 : A T u r b u l e n t Y e a r magazines... News Sports Decoration Children Lifestyle and Economy 500 newspapers! Herald Tribune Wall Street Journal Financial Times New York Times 10% off your subscription plus one month free! CALL US TODAY!!! tel: 5276.4600 [email protected] For information on more titles: www.todalaprensa.com.mx [ ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 T By Jonathan Jucker he 1968 Mexico City Olympics, which the PRI government of President Gustavo Diaz Ordaz hoped would showcase Mexico to the world, also revealed deep fissures within Mexican society as those elements seeking change ran into resistance. Although the Tlatelolco Massacre looms large in the Mexican psyche, for many around the world it barely registered, as their own countries were being riven by the same pressures. The old order in the United States was in the process of being turned on its ear by the Civil Rights movement. For some, this represented an intolerable threat to the status quo, and in addition to political resistance, the Civil Rights movement was met with violence. Ironically, the tragic assassination of Martin Luther King on April 4th spurred President Johnson to sign the Civil Rights Act into law just one week later. Race wasn’t the only issue facing the US: the war in Vietnam mobilized a generation who objected to what they saw as an immoral foreign intervention and a sad waste of promising young lives. Troubling news coming from the conflict in 1968 included reports of American soldiers massacring civilians in the village of My Lai, and a startling photograph showing a South Vietnamese police chief executing a Viet Cong guerilla at pistol point, developments which further polarized US public opinion about this controversial war. Democratic presidential candidate Robert Kennedy was seen by many as representing new hope for the nation, but these hopes were dashed by an assassin’s bullets on June 5th. The Democratic Party’s national convention, held in August in Chicago, was characterized by antiwar protests and police brutality, heightening the turmoil in the year’s American politics. Since January that year, Alexander Dubcek’s government in Czechoslovakia had gradually been loosening that country’s post-Second World War Stalinist society. This caused grave alarm in the Soviet Union and other Warsaw Pact countries, and on the night of August 20th over 200,000 troops and 2,000 tanks rolled into the country to remove Dubcek and reinstate hardline Communist rule. In May, France was brought to a standstill as a series of student protests against class and economic disparities at universities in Paris grew into a nationwide strike. At its peak over ten million workers, representing two-thirds of the country’s total workforce, walked off the job (or just as likely took over their factory). President De Gaulle went into hiding before finally dissolving the government and calling elections in June. In the United Kingdom, Catholics in Northern Ireland were beginning to demand equal treatment before the law, but their protests were met by increasing violence from the Royal Ulster Constabulary and Protestant hardliners. Widespread rioting in 1968 eventually led to the formation of the Provisional Irish Republican Army and Protestant paramilitaries such as the Ulster Volunteer Force and thirty years of sectarian violence, known simply as “the Troubles.” While Mexico did a good job of papering over (and burying) its internal divisions for the 1968 Olympics, much of the worldwide unrest was on display. Most famous was the Black Power salute given by black American athletes Tommie Smith and John Carlos as they received their gold and bronze medals (respectively) for the 200-meter sprint. While an innocuous gesture to modern eyes, the International Olympic Committee (then headed by an American) forced the US track and field team to send them home, and they ultimately received lifetime Olympic bans. That event’s silver medallist, Australian Peter Norman, wore a badge supporting the Americans and also spoke out against his own country’s “White Australia” immigration policy, leading to his own ostracism. Czechoslovakian gymnast Vera Cáslavská, who had won three gold medals and one silver at the 1964 Olympics in Tokyo, was a vocal supporter of the Prague Spring reforms, and had been in hiding since the Soviet tanks rumbled into the Czech capital. She reappeared to triumph at the Mexico City Games, winning four golds and two silvers, but provoked the ire of the newly-installed puppet government in Prague when she staged a silent protest by looking away during the playing of the Soviet anthem. She earned the affection of her hosts, however, when she married countryman runner Josef Odlozil at the Catedral Metropolitana in the Zócalo, as thousands of Mexicans looked on and wished them well. Inside México welcomes News & Notes submissions from around the country. Please email contributions to Catherine Dunn: [email protected]. Inside México talks with Carlos Hermosillo Going for the Gold, Taking a New Path Carlos Hermosillo is a national soccer hero. Most retired players end up working for a soccer team, but as president of the National Commission of Physical Culture and Sports (CONADE), Hermosillo is charged with leading the Mexican delegation that will compete in the Beijing Olympic Games. Inside México: Why is Carlos Hermosillo at CONADE and not working for a soccer team? Carlos Hermosillo: When I first started to focus my energy [after retiring as a player], I considered two areas of work: one was soccer, and the other one, all sports. I like soccer a lot and I am passionate about it, but soccer has two promoters who control it and these people have affected the game a lot. They can open the door to those they like, and close it to those they don’t like. I had the opportunity to get a job during the past administration here at CONADE. Truth be said, it was very difficult at first because I wanted to move forward with certain initiatives but the legal aspect stops you. IM: What’s the difference between running an Olympic team and a soccer team? CH: In soccer you know what to do to take advantage; here, you just don’t know. Don’t get me wrong, I love the institution for giving me the opportunity to do something for amateur sports. We have to learn how to motivate, and to get people to compromise. We have the resources to do things but we are talking about the entire country. Strategies have to be completely different. I tell my wife and sons that this past year and four months at the helm of CONADE has been like studying several degrees at the same time. It has been highly productive and we have advanced a lot in what we are doing, not just with the Olympic competitors, but [with] our efforts at developing athletes in rural communities with popular sports. Maybe I will not see the results of this, but in the not-too-distant future—perhaps. We are sowing to reap. IM: Under what conditions did you receive the CONADE position last year? There was friction between you and former president Nelson Vargas. CH: I received it on the condition that we would present a good delegation for the coming Olympic Games. I respect what Nelson did a lot, but it is not true that he left after steering Mexican sports onto a well-paved eight lane super highway. Rather, he left us on a dirt road plagued with potholes. He divided sports people. Beyond the confrontation between CONADE and the Mexican Olympic Committee, he was far removed from physical education teachers. That caused a lot of problems for me at first. IM: That was the political side of it. What about the sports part? CH: They were more worried about the high yield sports… the ones in which athletes can go to the Pan American games and the Olympic Games. The problem is that those competitors at an Olympic level got there on their own. We notice them when they are going for a championship. What we are doing now is starting from rock bottom. That’s why we are investing in public schools, and we are going to continue on that path, seeking to motivate a nation to sports and to be on the search for talent. Nothing like this has ever been done before. IM: It sounds like a huge endeavor. CH: After inspecting all the sports federations in the nation, we [realized that we] have very few sports people who can compete internationally. Instead of having two or three per discipline we should have fifteen or twenty. Though we have good competitors, this is a limitation we are confronting just prior to the Olympic Games. And performing in the Olympics is a different story. IM: So beyond Beijing, what are your plans? CH: We are investing in basics now, so we can have new competitors in the upcoming National Youth Olympic Games, which is for under-15 competitors. Then we have the Central American and Pan American Games in Jalisco in 2011, and then the Olympics again, London 2012. IM: Will you be in charge of those delegations? CH: Yes I will. And it will be in those delegations that we will show what we have done as an institution and with teamwork. And I dare say that we are going to have the finest results this country has ever had. IM: Unfortunately, not much is expected from the delegation heading to Beijing this summer. CH: I like to think positively and we are a nation who always thinks negatively… it’s going to be tough but I am convinced that confidence in oneself is essential. The change towards positive thinking we have carried out with the boys and girls has been extraordinary. Those of us who have been in competitive sports know how positive development works. That leads me to believe that we can have results. Perhaps not as good we should, because in a nation with 105 million inhabitants we should be much better off, but we have possibilities in archery, diving, canoeing, sailing, tae kwon do, and perhaps, boxing—and other sports in which one never knows, sports are like that. Nothing is written and competitions are unpredictable. Carlos Hermosillo was a striker for several Mexican soccer teams, notably America and Cruz Azul, as well as the LA Galaxy in the US. As an international he remains Mexico’s second-leading scorer of all time, and played in two World Cups. Today, he is a member of President Calderon’s extended cabinet, presiding over the National Commission of Physical Culture and Sports (CONADE), an official institution reporting to the Secretariat of Education. Medal count 1900 year of the II Olympiad in Paris, the first in which Mexican athletes participated. 52 total medals won by Mexican Athletes in Olympic history. 9 medals won by Mexi- cans at the 1968 games in Mexico City. 1 position of boxing in terms of medal wins for Mexico. 2 position of racewalking in terms of medal wins for Mexico (tied with diving). 1988 year Jamaica’s men’s bobsled team first participated in the Winter Olympics. 1928 year Mexico’s men’s bobsled team first participated in the Winter Olympics. 6 number of Winter Olympics to which Mexico has sent a team. 0 number of medals won by Mexican athletes at the Winter Olympics. 2,240 elevation, in meters above sea level, of Mexico City, host of the Games of the XIX Olympiad in 1968: The highest summer games in history. 1 number of world records set by endurance athletes at the 1968 games. 8 number of world records set by sprint and jumping athletes at the 1968 games. 55 distance in centimeters by which American long jumper Bob Beamon broke the previous world record at the 1968 Mexico City games. 23 number of years Beamon’s record stood. 2 number of beers Swedish pentathlete Hans-Gunnar Liljenwall drank before the pistol-shooting event at the 1968 games, leading to the first-ever disqualification for banned substances. Sources: International Olympic Committee, Databaseolympics.com, World Socialist Web Site, CIA World Factbook, Helsingin Sanomat www.insidemex.com [ ] MÉrida Photos by Catherine Dunn and Colin MxEnearney Mexican baseball ain’t what it used to be. Los Leones prowl the diamond at Parque de Béisbol Kukulcan. The Stadium Take a 20-minute cab ride from the Centro Histórico to the Parque de Béisbol Kukulcan. On the web: www.leonesdeyucatan.com.mx What & Where to Eat Breakfast Have typical huevos moltuleños at Cafetería Pop: Calle 57, between Calles 60 and 62 www.cafeteriapop.com Lunch Order anything yucateco at Los Almendros: [ ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 Corner of Calle 50 and Calle 57 Dinner Revel in the small, delicious menu at artsy La Casa de Frida Calle 61 No. 526-A, between Calles 66 and 66-A Snack Order panuchos and salbutes, two types of fried tortilla pockets topped with shredded chicken or the area’s famed pork, cochinita pibil. (We munched at El Trapiche on Calle 62, between Calles 61 and 59). Try Montejo, the regional beer. Pitcher-perfect weather A trip to the Yucatán packs heat–and baseball B y C atherine D unn E vening clouds chase the day away in a sweet moment of smoky blue. The stadium lights shine like headlights across the vast emerald green field, from home plate to deep center. Parque Kukulcán pumps with an ‘80s rock soundtrack straight from a Brat Pack flick. Food vendors wend through the aisles of tiny green seats wielding swabs of cotton candy, bags of popcorn, Montejo beer, kibbehs (Middle Eastern hors-d’oeuvres), and cold-cut sandwiches. We stand for the himno nacional and then it’s time to play ball: Los Leones de Yucatán, in crisp home-team whites, versus Los Piratas de Campeche. Los Leones (the Lions) have been Mérida’s ball club in the Mexican League since 1954, and were 2006 League champions. When we touched down in the Yucatán capital, the team had just won the first half of the season, and American pitching coach Gilberto Rondon was feeling good about making it to the finals again (playoffs begin in August). In and around Mérida there’s lots to do. You can just amble about the Centro Histórico’s grid of flagstone streets, surrounded by the worn grandeur of colonial architecture, or pop into one of the many galleries on 60th Street. Weekend evenings bring musical performances and salsa dancing to the streets. The ruins of Uxmal and Chichén-Itzá are spectacular and just a daytrip away. • Catch a live trova set at Amaro: Calle 59 No. 507, between Calles 60 and 62 • Beat the heat in style with a guayabera from Guayaberas Jack on Calle 59 No. 507, between Calles 60 and 62. • Visit the Museo de la Ciudad for a simple, well-done overview of Mérida’s history, from its beginnings as Maya capital T’oh. Calle 65 between Calles 56 and 56A Tues-Fri: 8 am – 8 pm Sat-Sun: 8 am – 2 pm Free entry Outdoor dining and dancing Photo courtesy of Yucatan Turism Department night life What to see & do • Check out Museo MACAY for contemporary art Calle 60, next to the Cathedral on the main plaza Sun, Mon, Wed, Thurs: 10 am – 6 pm Fri, Sat: 10 am – 8 pm. Tues: closed Free entry www.macay.org The White City, as Mérida’s known, still boasts a lot of color. But the summertime feel of the place goes well with baseball. So on game night, we taxi-trekked from the Centro Histórico to the 14,500-seat stadium. Ninety pesos on a Tuesday night took us right behind home plate, among the players’ pretty wives and girlfriends and adorable kids. The crowd was thin that night; though judging from what Coach Rondon says, it was no measure of how far Mexican baseball has come in this soccer-crazed country. In the “old” days, traveling umpires would have to sleep in the clubhouse, and the Leones had to travel fifty-five hours by bus for games in Ciudad Juárez. These days games are televised on ESPN, and players make a good living (upwards of $115,000 USD for the “top guys”). Mexican talent has also been attracting more and more attention from Major League scouts impressed by Mexico’s baseball academies. “Baseball’s changed here,” says Rondon, 54, who sports a crew cut and a tall, thick physique. “These guys are in shape now. They go to the gym. They work hard.” Born in the Bronx, Rondon logged a few seasons in the Big Leagues before the New York Yankees sold him to Mérida in 1979. So began an international career as a journeyman pitcher and coach. He has plied his fastball and his know-how around the world: Taiwan, Italy, Canada, Puerto Rico, and • For good walks, stroll Calle 60 and the Paseo de Montejo. Hang around the main plaza on weekends (live music starts in the evening). • For great city info in English, check out Yucatan Today: www.yucatantoday.com. Mexico—from Tijuana to Mérida, where his daughter was born in the backseat of a Volkswagen. For Rondon, Mérida is a great place to pitch: the heat makes you sweat and loosens up your arm, unlike the highaltitude stadiums of Mexico City or Puebla. He has the youngest pitching staff in the sixteen-team league; he calls them his “fourteen sons.” They include Luis Navarro, who is deaf in one ear, and Oscar Rivera, who pitched a perfect game last year. “I speak a different language with each one,” he says. For the Mérida newcomer, the gift of the game was the pleasant cool of nightfall. Over nine innings, the porras (an unofficial fan club) brass band blared its support from the upper deck. Ball girls in black spandex and bikini tops delivered new baseballs to the home plate umpire. The team mascot—a scrawny-looking lion—strutted the field. And every time the Leones scored a run, the team emptied the dugout to welcome the runner with high-fives: the Leones eventually beat the Pirates 6 to 1. It’s not just Mérida that’s a baseball town: “the whole south is,” Rondon insists. “They don’t like soccer here.” When the game was over, fans took over the field, seeking autographs, snapping photos, and playing their own games around the bases. The world felt right—as it should when the home team wins, even when you’re just visiting. M i x www.insidemex.com [ ] /resultados A Medalist’s Mettle Photos: ww w.com.org.mx Daniel Aceves Villagrán preaches Olympic-sized dedication B y R icardo C astillo D “My trajectory is like that of many sports people. There are defeats and victories.” Daniel Aceves Villagrán [ 10 ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 aniel Aceves Villagrán has wrestling in his blood. He learned the sport from his father, legendary 1950s wrestler Bobby Bonales, and used all his knowledge, skill, and experience to win silver at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympic Games. “My trajectory is like that of many sports people. There are defeats and victories,” he says. As he tells his story, Aceves uses the word “perseverance” time and again. “I was a wrestler who was not born good, but was forged by training for battle and complete dedication. Thirty years ago when I began participating in Olympic wrestling, I inspired myself with the old Chinese proverb that says the true value of a man lies not in never falling, but in getting up every time he falls.” His list of victories in international wrestling is impressive, and includes being World Youth Champion in 1983. Aceves, however, resists the role of “hero from the past.” Since he retired from competition, he has worked to support Mexicans who have competed in the Olympic Games and to pass the older athletes’ experience on to rising stars in Mexican sports. Three years after winning his Olympic medal, Aceves founded the Mexican Association of Olympic Medalists. He’s still president of that organization and also presides over the Olympic Contenders Association. Both are private, non-governmental organizations. His day job is as Director of corporate legal affairs for the government-sponsored National Professional Technical Education College (CONALEP). Aceves worries that the Medalist’s Association is seen as a historical relic where the members are on exhibit, pleasant memories of past glories. “We don’t want to be a museum,” he says seriously. Counseling young Olympians is a responsibility he and Raúl González (Los Angeles 1984, gold, 50 kilometer racewalk) assumed when they founded the Medalist’s Association in 1987. Aceves and the other medalists in his organization, like Carlos Mercenario (Barcelona 1992, silver, 50 kilometer racewalk) and Soraya Jiménez (Sydney 2000, gold, weightlifting) have been passing their experience on to the eighty-five competitors who will represent Mexico in Beijing this summer. They help prepare the athletes for what to expect on the ultimate world stage, telling them to endure, persevere, and hope for the best. But some things have changed since he was cutting his teeth as an amateur athlete in Mexico in the 70s and 80s: “We have a better system today. There is a social consciousness about what Olympic sports are.” He believes, however, that other parts of the Olympic experience transcend time, and his message to the upcoming competitors is clear: “The most important thing in the life of any athlete is to nourish his or her vocation to make it to the Olympic Games. There are sports people who have won many glories but have not won a medal in the Olympic Games, and their careers are somewhat incomplete. When there is a medal, there is a vision of life, and that is something you never lose. I believe as a fact of life that if you are an Olympic medalist, you live and die differently”. Polo Team, Bronze in Berlin 1936. Boxer Francisco Cabañas, Silver in Los Angeles 1932. Boxer Fidel Ortiz, Bronze in Berlin 1936. Equestrian Humberto Mariles, Gold in London 1948. Swimmer Felipe Muñoz, Gold in Mexico City 1968. An Amazing Ride The story of Mexico’s First Olympic Gold Medal B y R icardo C astillo General Humberto Mariles led Mexico’s equestrian team to Olympic glory in 1948. The Mexican team defeated supposedly superior European competitors, earning two golds, a silver, and a bronze. But the path to the Olympic medals twisted with adventure, and the failure to follow a president’s command. General Mariles and his riding team, members of the Mexican Army, trained to perfection in their military gear. In 1935, they won gold and bronze medals in the Central American and Caribbean Games. Mariles prepared the team for the 1936 Berlin Olympics, but in the end Mexico didn’t send them. His team won blue ribbons in 1939 at Madison Square Garden in New York and in several contests in South America. Their success continued through the 1940s, until it was time to get ready for the London games. In early January 1948, at the Club Hípico Frances in Mexico City, Mariles met a sorrel-colored, one-eyed horse named “Arete” (earring). From the first ride, Mariles fell in love with the beast. The team planned to participate in competitions all over Europe leading up to the Games, but in February, President Miguel Alemán summoned the general, telling him: “You know, general, the tour is cancelled.” “May I know why, Mister President?” “Because you can’t win with those cart pulling horses and that one-eyed stallion.” “But Señor Presidente…” “That will be all, general.” All the travel arrangements had been made. The team had the money to go and had been accepted to all the European competitions. In bold defiance of the Commander in Chief, Mariles and his team traveled to Galveston, Texas, and from there sailed to Italy. In Rome, the Mexican ambassador met Mariles and his riders with a warrant to arrest them for disobeying military orders, squandering public funds, desertion, and embezzlement. Still, Mariles refused to return to Mexico. He warned his riders: “You too may go to jail so let’s win.” Their future may have been saved when Pope Pius XII accepted Mariles’ invitation to come watch the Mexicans ride the day after they arrived. The team finished third in the Concorso Ippico Internazionale. News of the success appeared to tame the wrath of President Alemán. At the London Olympics, the team surprised everyone by winning bronze in the three-day “eventing” contest. Rider Raúl Uriza grabbed silver at the Grand Prix of Nations, and Mariles, riding the one-eyed “Arete,” took the gold. The Mexicans also took gold in the team jumping event. As the medalists celebrated at the Preston Manor hotel, someone rushed up to Mariles. “Go to the phone, quick, el Señor Presidente wants to talk to you.” M i x With information from the 1990 edition of Mexican Olympic Medalists, authored by Ramón Márquez and Armando Satow. J o s é S u l ai m á n Gentle Knock-Out by Ricardo Castillo /photo by Luz Montero Despite the fact that he’s a Mexican celebrity and has spent thirty-three years as president of the World Boxing Council, where he’s sanctioned over one thousand world championship fights, José Sulaimán still cracks a fresh, simple smile at the slightest provocation. His memories would fill several volumes, but he is not writing them down. He prefers to live one day at a time as head of an organization that boasts 164 member nations. How did a gentle person—and gentleman—like Sulaimán become involved with pugilism’s largest and most influential sanctioning body? Since he was a child, he says he has loved boxing. He even became an amateur puncher in his native city of Valles, Tamaulipas, but when he got his nose and jaw busted in a couple of bouts, he retired Sulaimán comes from a notable family of Lebanese descent. Not surprisingly, his parents opposed his ambitions in the ring, so instead he became a boxing judge at age sixteen. He moved to Mexico City where he immediately got involved with the bustling boxing scene. In 1963, he helped found the World Boxing Council, a body created by eleven nations fed up with “the absolute monopoly” of the US National Boxing Association, which at the time controlled the sanctioning of world championship matches. In 1975, Sulaimán, who makes his living manufacturing electronic gauges for labs and hospitals, became the WBC’s fifth president. The first was a Brit who resigned within a week, followed by famous Mexican novelist Luis Spota. Spota, says Sulaimán, liked boxing but did not know much about organization. Justiniano Montano from the Philippines came next. After him, Sulaimán´s mentor and teacher Ramón Velázquez assumed the post. When Velázquez passed away, Sulaimán took over and that is really the beginning of the story. “Velázquez was a great Mexican boxing man: most of what I know in boxing I learned from Mr. Velázquez, ” says Sulaiman. The relevance of the WBC lies in its impressive history of championship fights, beginning with its glory days when it sanctioned the two controversial bouts between Cassius Clay (who would become Mohammed Ali) and Sonny Liston, up to the marquee matchups between Oscar de la Hoya and Floyd Mayweather. Between these extravaganzas, there have been fights in all divisions all over the world. For the record, Sulaimán always sits ringside. In Mexico City last June 17 he attended the Edgar SosaTakaishi Kunishige mini-flyweight world championship fight, which Sosa won in eight rounds. But at his advanced age, which Don José won’t reveal but must be way over seventy, the question is whether he’s ready to throw in the towel. “Well, maybe,” he says. There will be another convention of the World Boxing Council next November when Sulaimán may or may not be re-elected. “I have until then to think about it.” www.insidemex.com [ 11 ] Olympic The Ruta de la Amistad (Route of Friendship) was part of the concurrent Cultural Olympics, displaying the work 19 sculptors from 16 countries along Perférico Sur. Playgrounds P hotos by R oberto S alvador T Pista Olímpica de Remo y Canotaje Virgilio Uribe, Cuemanco Xochimilco [ 12 ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 he Summer Games of the XIX Olympiad were held Oct. 12 – 27, 1968 in Mexico City. While many existing venues were adapted to accommodate the events, the capital ramped up with a huge public construction effort, building stadia, a pool, canals, and housing for the visiting athletes and press. Today these structure form part of the city’s everyday urban landscape. Alberca Olímpica Francisco Marquez, Avenida Divisón del Norte 2333, Col. General Anaya. Here, swimmer Felipe Muñoz won a gold medal for Mexico in the 200-meter breaststroke. Get all the alternatives that MBE has for you. www.mx.mbelatam.com 01 800 681 6236 Estadio Olímpico Universitario, on the Ciudad Universitaria campus of the UNAM. The stadium, adorned by a Diego Rivera mural, was inaugurated in 1952. • e-box • usps • internet • bubblewrap • printing • shipping • boxes • etc. www.insidemex.com [ 13 ] Back covers of the Olympic Bulletin. [ 14 ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 Technicolor 1968 Behind the Scenes at Mexico’s Debut on the Olympic Stage B y C atherine D unn P hotos by L uz M ontero here was no choice but to fly to Tehran. Beatrice Trueblood left Mexico City on April 25, 1967 with a suitcase full of copies of the Boletín, the magazine published by the Mexico Olympic Committee. Inside, reports on the construction of sports arenas, an article on Mexican Christmas traditions, and an overview of the Spanish conquest were aimed at one purpose: convincing the International Olympic Committee—and the world—that Mexico should still host the 1968 games. “That was the deciding point,” Trueblood, now 70, recalls. “Mexico was going to lose the Olympics.” Though Mexico had beaten out Detroit, Buenos Aires, and Lyon, France in 1963, four years later the country’s capital was scrambling to hang on to the prize of hosting the Games. Former President Adolfo López Mateos had been appointed head of the Olympic Committee by his successor, President Gustavo Díaz Ordaz. But as López Mateos suffered from cerebral aneurysms, the preparations for the Games fell far behind schedule. In April 1967, with only seventeen months left until the October opening ceremonies, the International Olympic Committee was deciding Mexico’s fate. Would it still be the first Latin American country, the first developing nation, to host the modern Olympics? Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, a genius at organizing colossal projects, was named the new President of the Mexico Olympic Committee in July 1966. The architect had masterminded the construction of 35,000 public schools as well as the Museo Nacional de Antropología, the country’s vast repository of pre-Hispanic treasures. He went to Iran for the IOC decision, armed with beautiful Mexican singer María de Lourdes, a mariachi band, and a talent for political maneuvering. The hot-off-the-presses Boletín was the last piece he needed. Beatrice Trueblood, the 29-year-old head of publications for the Mexico Olympic Committee, waited behind for it to be printed. The stylish, cosmopolitan daughter of a Latvian diplomat, she packed light for the trip so she could stuff dozens of copies into her luggage. Then, as the IOC debated behind closed doors, she wandered anxiously around Tehran’s market. The IOC’s final decision was unanimous: “Yes” to Mexico. Mexico’s delegation threw a gala party, celebrating long into the night. Iranian royals, socialites, and diplomats mingled as Ramírez Vázquez’s doe-eyed Mexican diva sang and an Iranian orchestra played. Trueblood recalls the IOC members walking around, Boletín in hand, showing off the logos and imagery that were to cement the identity of Mexico68. “The back cover was radiating throughout this International Committee meeting in Tehran,” she remembers. “For me, it was like, wow! We did it.” They had less than a year and a half to pull it off. All graphic materials courtesy Beatrice Trueblood. www.insidemex.com [ 15 ] ‘For Mexico’s Prestige’ Cities usually stage PR battles to host the Olympic Games, but never has an anointed host city had to fight to keep the Games as Mexico City did in the mid-1960s. A New York Times headline in 1965 read “Detroit ready if needed”; three years later, just before the opening ceremonies, the paper declared that there was only one word to describe Mexico’s preparation for the Olympics: chaos. It fell to Pedro Ramírez Vázquez to get the country up to speed, to create and oversee the massive directory of services and administration necessary to accommodate hundreds of thousands of tourists, an international press corps, and 5,516 athletes from 112 countries. He knew Mexico would be scrutinized as a developing country, and many were already worried that Mexico City’s 2,240-meter altitude would compromise athletes’ health. “The challenge was to demonstrate that we could do it,” Ramírez Vázquez, now 89, says. He occupies the same office today as he did then, in the posh neighborhood of Jardines del Pedregal. “For me, the medal that I sought was that of Mexico’s prestige, of Mexico’s capability.” In the late 1950s and early 1960s, the International Olympic Committee was “helping countries use [the Olympics] as a coming-out party,” says writer David Wallechinsky, vice-president of the International Society of Olympic Historians. In 1964 Tokyo was the first city to host the Games in Asia, and it was meant “to show that…they weren’t the old Japan.” Ramírez Vázquez wanted a stellar debut for his nation. The soft-spoken but unyielding architect decided that simply putting on the Games wasn’t enough to reinvent Mexico for the world. He revived the ancient Greek tradition of a Cultural Olympics that would run parallel to the sports events, and organized the Olympic Identity Program to enhance Mexico’s image, project a sense of progress and preparedness, and show the world that Mexico was a country rich in culture. “The records fade away, but the image of a country does not,” Ramírez Vázquez told the magazine Eye, put out by the International Review of Graphic Design, in a 2001 interview. Ramírez Vázquez had first brought Trueblood to Mexico in 1965. At the time, she was working in the art books section of Viking Press and living in Greenwich Village. A charity ball blind date led to a close friendship with Ramírez Vázquez protégé Eduardo Terrazas, the resident architect at Mexico’s pavilion for the 1964 World’s Fair in New York. When Ramírez Vázquez wanted a first-class art book, produced in five languages, about the new Museo de Antropología, Terrazas introduced him to Trueblood. Trueblood had hardly set down her bags in New York after finishing the Antropología book when Ramírez Vázquez’s telegram arrived calling her back to run the publications department of the Olympic Identity Program. Forty years later, Mexico’s graphics are still considered some of the best Olympic designs ever. An exposition called Diseñando México 68: una identidad olímpica, billed as “an exposition on the largest and most effective graphic and publicity campaign that has been done in Mexico,” opens at the Museo de Arte Moderno on July 25 of this year. Eduardo Terrazas once again plays a key role, this time as curator of the exhibit, but declined to be interviewed prior to its opening. [ 16 ] InsideMéxico May 2008 Concentric Circles Workers painting the plaza at the Estadio Olímpico. Giant “Ju sites. The Mexico 68 statue at the Estadio Olímpico Welcome The Centro Histórico radiated with the Olympic theme. Globos Balloons heralded competition from the air. Information booths Symbols and colors moved visitors around the foreign city. Small office, big ideas Photos courtesy Beatrice Trueblood. udas” figures marked event Design everywhere Flags adorned the fencing competition. As stadia and Olympic villages sprang up throughout the city, Terrazas and Trueblood began work on the Identity Program from two small offices on the roof of Ramírez Vázquez’s architecture despacho in the south of Mexico City. After construction, they had the largest budget in the Committee. The first order of business was to come up with a logo and a system of colors and symbols that would unify the Olympic image. The Identity Program, essentially a branding and PR office rolled into one, “had to [first] convince you that we can do the Olympics,” Trueblood says, and that mission, along with energy and “lots of good intentions … infiltrated our team.” To achieve a modern design, they had to look beyond Mexico. As a profession, graphic design barely existed in Mexico in 1966. There was only one design school in the country and it had five students, Ramírez Vázquez says. He gave the Identity Program leeway to hire an international team. Trueblood and Terrazas recruited from around the world, and especially New York. Lance Wyman, one of several New York City graphic designers who traveled to Mexico for the project, worked with Terrazas to create the principal logo for the games: “Mexico68” in black-andwhite, overlaid with the five Olympic rings in full color, ensconced in a swirl of continuous lines and radiating circles. The design drew from the geometric “Op art” style that was in vogue at the time, as well as the artistic traditions of the Huichol Indians (an ethnic group located in western central Mexico). Eventually the logo adorned everything from the back covers of publications to balloons, official Olympic cars, and even dresses and bikinis. The radiating circles from the “68” were painted on the plazas at the Estadio Azteca and the Estadio Olímpico. Terrazas designed statues of the logo to decorate the stadia and Olympic villages where the athletes and journalists lived, and in 1967 he even turned the logo into a three-dimensional labyrinthine room for the design summit at the Milan Triennial. Other symbols were created to represent each sport, cultural event, and corresponding venue, forming a language of images that would be understood by visitors from all over the world. The Department of Urban Design mapped the city and marked routes to direct traffic and pedestrians to event sites throughout the capital. Over the course of two years, the Department of Publications would publish over 16 million copies of 854 works covering every aspect of the games. They reported on hotels, restaurants, ancient Olmec sports, pre-Olympic postage stamps, native corn and vanilla, the history of the Catedral Metropolitana, and of course the progress of construction on the Palacio de los Deportes, the Olympic Village, and the Olympic pool. While the Olympic publications didn’t reveal all the behind-the-scenes antics, the department was responsible for publicizing the “making of” storyline. In that sense, says Huberto Batis, the Spanish-language editor, “we invented the Olympics” in Mexico. “As this builds up,” says Trueblood, “you begin to believe that Mexico is important.” Where it all started. Working out of the rooftop office in south Mexico City. Editor Huberto Batis. Team Leaders. Beatrice Trueblood, Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, president of the Mexico Olympic Committee, and Eduardo Terrazas. Eduardo Terrazas drawing the Mexco 68 poster. Brainstorming Production chief Ricardo Verdoni, Trueblood and Terrazas. Photographers Leonard Soned and Francisco Uribe (head of photography). www.insidemex.com [ 17 ] Beatrice Trueblood, pictured with her dog Maximilian, moved to Mexico in 1966 to head the Department of Publications for the Olympic Identity Program. Afterwards, she ran her own editorial and produced art books. She now serves as the Honorary Consul of Latvia, and is writing novels about Lativia. The Cultural Olympics cultural olympics programs [ 18 ] InsideMéxico May 2008 The Identity Program grew quickly and was constantly adding staff: motorcycle messengers, illustrators, photographers, writers, editors and translators, typesetters, paste-up boys, and architects. Terrazas and Trueblood continued to scout talent from beyond Mexico. Eventually the office staff ballooned to about 250 people working in shifts to comply with the demanding production schedule. The international team pulled all-nighters to produce the publications in the three required languages. The shared mission was a bond, helping a diverse group cope with all the ensuing drama: foreigners who couldn’t speak Spanish, Mexicans who hated the foreigners, hot-shot egos from New York, fist fights, and “more affairs than you could imagine,” Trueblood recounts. Political shakeups in the Rector’s office at UNAM (the National Autonomous University of Mexico) resulted in a boon of talent for Publications. In the early 1960s, the group of young writers producing the university’s magazine were part of the country’s cultural vanguard, but Gastón García Cantú, the right-hand man to the new University president, resented the magazine’s international focus. He slandered one of the writers for being homosexual and advocated a more nationalistic and conservative editorial agenda. The leaders of the university’s publications resigned and migrated to the Olympic Committee’s Publications Department. The Mexico68 exposition at the 1967 Milan Triennial. Trueblood made Huberto Batis, the former head of UNAM publications, the editor-in-chief for Spanish language texts. “Ramírez Vázquez needed people to do the work,” Batis recalls, “and he didn’t care where we came from.” The new crop of writers was not made up of sports junkies. They were meant to cover what Trueblood calls “Ramírez Vázquez’s finest idea”, the Cultural Olympics. Poetry readings, art expositions, an international film festival, and folk dancing filled the agenda. African and Russian ballets, Arthur Miller’s plays, and Duke Ellington all took the stage at Bellas Artes. The Cultural Olympics began in January, ten months before the Games. Ricardo Verdoni, a Mexican who had been working at Time-Life in New York, arrived to be the Production Chief. He made it all run on time—whether that meant sleeping in his car at the printers, organizing the staff to work around the clock in shifts, or just exuding serenity around writers looking for inspiration on deadline. To get promotional materials done on time, the staff had to “kidnap” performers at the Mexico City airport and whisk them away for a photo shoot before they were carried away by the Olympic pandemonium. After their arrival, it was learned that it was customary for the Senegalese ballet to perform topless. The uproar that preceded the show led the dancers to suggest a compromise: they agreed to not dance topless if Mexico’s prima ballerina Amalia Hernández would dance bare-chested when she performed with them. The matter was quickly dropped, and the show went on with the Senegalese in the buff. As the Games drew near, Mexico City was draped in Olympic colors. Streets and highways were decorated with flags. Inspired by the Mexican Easter tradition of papier maché Judas effigies, gigantic figures were posed at the arenas representing the athletes of each particular sport. Huge balloons honoring the beloved Mexican globo hung from window displays along Paseo de la Reforma, festooned the press centers, and eventually flew over each sports venue. As opening day drew nearer, the Department of Urban Design handed out paint to the people who lived near the airport so they could brighten up the facades of their houses in order to make a good first impression on arriving visitors. All the billboards in the city were on loan to the Olympic Committee; the Olympic dove was everywhere, as was one of the Games’ official slogans: “Todo es posible con la paz.” Everything is possible with peace. Protests and Tlaltelolco A few months before the Opening Ceremonies, the Identity Program staff moved from the rooftop offices in Jardines de Pedregal to a building on Avenida Universidad, near the wooded Viveros de Coyoacán park. The new office was just up the road from UNAM’s Ciudad Universitaria campus, home to the Olympic Stadium and the fountainhead of the student protest marches that began to flood the streets in July. 1968 was a year of global unrest and violence. In Mexico, as the Opening Ceremonies drew closer, tensions surrounding the Student Movement were reaching a boiling point. Fights between students and the police reflected wider discontent with the country’s autocratic PRI government, and led students to demand more freedom to protest. Violent clashes between students and the police began on July 22. The army surrounded the campus of the National Polytechnic Institute. On August 1, UNAM’s president led a march from university grounds, northbound on Insurgentes. Huberto Batis was usually glued to his desk, scouring texts through dark-rimmed glasses, but on this day he was drawn to the window where he watched the phalanx of diverted protesters heading south on Avenida Universidad, back towards campus. The students had been headed north on Insurgentes when they were forced to turn around by a wall of tanks at Parque Hundido. For the next two months, student demonstrations filled Reforma, the Zócalo, and the Plaza de las tres culturas at Tlatelolco. Some of Batis’s writers were leaders of the Student Movement, among them José Revueltas, who was considered a leader of the movement. Student workers in the Olympic Committee building on Reforma would leave to protest and come back to work, says Ramírez Vázquez. Even as protests and violence swirled through the city, many members of the Identity Program staff operated in a virtual vacuum of production deadlines and pre-Olympics coverage. They became aware of what was happening outside only when it interfered with their work. Production chief Verdoni recalls José Revueltas being taken from the office by the police, never to return. Looking back, Verdoni doesn’t remember much else about the unrest: “Sometimes I think about it and I think, well, where were we?” For Beatrice Trueblood, the answer to that question is simple: “We were busy working.” www.insidemex.com [ 19 ] When members of her staff first asked Trueblood for permission to join the marches, she thought they were resigning and wondered how she would cope with losing her personnel at the eleventh hour. No, they assured her, we just want a few hours off to protest, and then we’ll be back at work. In the interest of keeping the peace, and pace of production, she agreed, wondering to herself, “How could they be receiving a government paycheck and be protesting the government?” Then, on October 2, police shot into a crowd of demonstrators in the plaza at Tlatelolco, just northeast of the Centro Histórico. It was reported internationally, though the full scope of what happened has only come to light over time. Contemporary accounts reported a mere handful of deaths; now casualty estimates range from three hundred into the thousands, and the event is seen as a symbol of government autocracy and repression. Luis Echeverria, who would later become president, was Minister of the Interior at the time: he’s currently under house arrest for his involvement in the shootings. Forty years later, says Batis, “we still don’t know everything that happened October 2.” “When you look at Mexico’s history from the point of view of 4,000 years of culture and human experience, any one moment cannot overshadow the whole of it,” Trueblood says, explaining her team’s continued focus on preparing for the Olympics. The games went on. On October 12, the world clicked on their television sets to watch the first color broadcast of the Olympics. Viewers saw the “Mexico68” iconography painted in red and white over the entire Olympic Stadium esplanade. Mexican track star Enriqueta Basilio de Sotelo ran the stadium steps, becoming the first woman to light the Olympic torch. The Estadio Olímpico at Ciudad Universitaria showcased the Opening and Closing Ceremonies. The plaza was painted in concentric rings, a fundamental design element in the Identity Program, as was the Estadio Azteca, which displayed a statue by Alexander Calder. (left) The End Game By the time of the closing ceremonies, Publications had produced every rulebook, sports program, and poster for each event. Hundreds of thousands of tourists had navigated the city following the flags and maps and painted street posts that served as colorful compasses. Mexico took home nine medals, and more importantly the country had put on a good show. At the Closing Ceremonies, Trueblood remembers there was fear that someone might damage the power supply to the stadium. The lights were dimmed and then went up, creating a dramatic effect. The flame was taken down. The speeches were done and the crowd poured onto the field as mariachis in the upper reaches of the stadium serenaded the success. “…It was totally spontaneous. It became an incredible fiesta,” Trueblood says. “It was an outbreak of sheer joy, and triumph and pleasure of being together in Mexico.” iMx [ 20 ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 The Mexico68 Poster was displayed at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The logo became ubiquitous during the presentation of the Games – appearing on everything from balloons to dresses to official vehicles (above left). www.insidemex.com [ 21 ] At more than 200 points around the country! Lomas • Bistrot Mosaico • American Benevolent • Brassica Restaurant • Antonella Society • Un Lugar de la Mancha • Restaurant And Bakery • Libros, Libros, Libros • Café La Selva • Café Emir • La Buena Tierra • La Lorena Reforma Corredor • Mani e Pedi • Fonart • The Yoga Center • Hotel Melia • Fussion Estilistas • Hotel Embassy Polanco • Hotel Sheraton, • Centro Educativo Multidisciplinario UNAM • Entrevinos • Hotel Fiesta Americana Reforma • Hotel Casa González • Villa María Coyoacan, San Angel, Sur • Tori Tori • UNAM – CEPE/CU • Artemis • Cafeteria La Selva • MP Café Bistro • Bazaar del Sábado • Isote • Riedel Wine Bar Roma • Hotel Nikko • Alliant International • Hotel Presidente University Intecontinental • Casa Lamm • Hotel J. W Marriott • Café de Carlo • Hotel W • La Truffe • Hotel Residencia Polanco • El Café de Nuestra Tierra • Hotel Fiesta Americana • • Tierra de Vinos Gran Chapultepec Interlomas • Hotel Camino Real • City Market • Restaurant Via Tasso • Casa del Libro • Thai Gardens • La Leyenda de la Cueva • Casa Castelar • Cumaná Condesa Centro • American Legion • Hotel Camino Real • Universidad La Salle • Librería Rosario • Castellanos • Aeropuerto • Italian Coffee Aeropuerto Cd. de México • Cafébrería El Pendulo • Gran Hotel Cd. de Mexico • Conejoblanco • Hotel Holiday Inn Zocalo • Condesa D.F. • Museo de Arte Popular • Orquídeas • Hotel Sheraton Centro • The Village Café • Barracuda Dinner • La Buena Tierra Histórico • Hotel Fiesta Inn Centro Histórico • Café La Gloria • Museo de San Carlos • Black Horse • Bistro Mosaico Napoles, Del Valle, Insurgentes Sur • Malafama • Hotel Holiday Inn Trade • Artefacto Center • Flo-Productos Orgánicos • Suites Batia • Rojo Bistrol • Italian Coffee Company • Frutos Prohibidos • Italian Coffee Plaza Inn y otros Placeres of free copy • Maria Isabel • Hotel Four Seasons • Italian Coffee Polanco to pick up your • Hotel Gran Marquis • Cafébrería El Pendulo • Restaurante Spuntino Where • Italian Coffee Xola Santa Fe Tlalpan Pedregal Sur • The Anglo • El Colegio de México • Hotel Camino Real Santa Fe • ITAM • Cafébrería El Pendulo • Hotel Camino Real • Sheraton Suites Santa Fe • Café la Selva Or download your digital copy at www.insidemex.com [ 22 ] InsideMéxico July / August 2008 Aguascalientes MBE Aguascalientes Baja California Sur Av. Independencia Local 1860-A. Jardines de la Concepcion MBE Cabo San Lucas Blvd. de la Marina No. 17, Plaza Bonita Local 44-E. Zona Centro MBE San José del Cabo Carr. Transpeninsular Km. 31 cc. Plaza las Palmas Campeche MBE Cd. del Carmen Calle 56 No. 199 Esq. x 33 A Local 1. Burócratas MBE Plaza Las Palmas Colima MBE Manzanillo Plaza Comercial Las Palmas Periférico de la Juventud No. 6101 Local 9. Hdas. del Valle MBE Interlomas Av. Jesús del Monte No. 35 Local 17. Jesús del Monte, Huixquilucan MBE Celaya MBE Campestre MBE San Miguel Blvd. Adolfo López Mateos Pte. 521 Pta. Baja. Centro, Celaya Blvd. Campestre No. 402 – 2. Jardines del Moral, León Relox No. 26 A. Centro. Sn Miguel de Allende Chihuahua Estado de México Guanajuato Blvd. Miguel de la Madrid Hurtado Km. 13 Local 2, Crucero de las Hadas. Salahua Hidalgo MBE Pachuca Mega Jalisco MBE Italia Providencia MBE Unión-Vallarta MBE ITESO MBE Chapala MEB Plaza Caracol Av. López Mateos Nte. No. 891. Italia Providencia Av. Unión No. 71. Americana Av. Periférico Sur No.8300 A06. El Mante Carretera Chapala-Jocotepec No. 144. San Antonio Tlayacapan Blv. Fco. Medina Ascencio No. 2180 Loc. 7. Zona Hotelera Norte MBE Lomas Virreyes MBE Palmas MBE Duraznos Pedregal No.17-B. Lomas de Chapultepec Av. Las Palmas No. 320 PB Local. Lomas de Chapultepec Bosque de Duraznos No. 67. México D.F. Blvd. Luís Donaldo Colosio No. 2003. Ex-Hacienda Coscotitlán MBE Condesa MBE Pantalón Bosques MBE Florencia MBE San Ángel MBE Sta. Fe Zéntrika MBE Lomas de Sta. Fe MBE Torre Mayor MBE Homero MBE Polanco Zona Hotelera Nuevo León No. 250. Hipódromo de la Condesa Bosques de Radiatas No. 22 PB. Bosques de las Lomas Florencia No. 65 PB Local A. Juárez Miguel Ángel de Quevedo No. 24 PB. Chimalistac Lateral de la Autopista México-Toluca No. 1235 Local 21. Santa Fe Cuajimalpa Antonio Dovali Jaime No. 75 Local 4-A. Lomas de Santa Fe Av. Paseo de la Reforma No. 505 segundo piso local 2P 8. Cuauhtémoc Homero No. 1507 Local C. Palmas Polanco MBE Gómez Morín MBE Monterrey Valle MBE Citadel Gómez Morín No. 1101 L. 106. Carrizalejo San Pedro Local A-4 Calzada del Valle No. 401. Del Valle Av. Rómulo Garza No. 410 Int. 106. La Fe. San Nicolás de los Garza. MBE Oaxaca Av. Universidad No. 200-B. Fracc. Nuestra Sra. MBE Tehuacán MBE Puebla Calzada Adolfo López Mateos No. 2408 Locales 5 y 6 B. Zona Alta Calzada Zavaleta No. 130 Loc. 9 Plaza Altavista. Sta. Cruz Buenavista MBE Arboledas Blvd. Bernardo Quintana No. 514- D. Arboledas MBE Cancún Plaza Hollywood Lote 1 Mz 1, Locales 9 y 10. Súper Manzana 35 MBE San Luís Potosí Himno Nacional No.1813 A. Burócrata MBE Tabasco 2000 Av. Paseo Tabasco No. 1406, Plaza Atenas, Local 3. Tabasco 2000. Villa Hermosa MBE Veracruz Habaneras No. 271-101. Fracc. Jard. Virginia MBE Mérida Calle 60 No. 325 A locales 6 y 7 por Av. Colón. Centro Nuevo León Oaxaca Puebla Querétaro Quintana Roo San Luís Potosí Tabasco Veracruz Yucatán Galileo No. 8- B. Chapultepec Polanco FIND your nearest MBE center. visit: www.mx.mbelatam.com, or call us at 01800 681 6236. C hinese Food In Search of the Real Thing B y N icholas G ilman and J im J ohnston W Ka Won Seng Photo by Julio Cesar Gonzalez hen asked what we miss about the USA, we usually answer “family, friends, and good Chinese food.” Although thousands of Chinese workers came to Mexico in the 19th century to build the railroads, leaving their heritage of cafés chinos (equivalent to American coffee shops, nowadays serving mostly Mexican fare), it’s hard to find authentic Chinese food in Mexico City. Anyone who has slogged through a meal in the DF’s so-called “Chinatown” (Calle Dolores in the Centro Histórico); eaten “chao mein” that tasted like mole in Roma; or paid through the nose for pseudo-Szechwan in Polanco will be happy to know that there is at least one “real” Chinese restaurant in Mexico City, with Chinese people in the kitchen and dining room. Chilango explorer and author David Lida led us to Ka Won Seng, which he learned about from a taxi driver with a Chinese sister-in-law. The hand-scrawled note by the front door raised our hopes: “No hay comida Mexicana, café, ni pan dulce,” and small signs with Chinese lettering (daily specials?) confirmed them. There is little décor beyond two large television sets—the attraction here is the food. Dry-roasted peanuts and pickled vegetables (cucumber, jicama, and carrots) were served along with Chinese tea as we sat down. The menu is extensive, containing many dishes not found elsewhere in Mexico. To start, get the dim sum (not on the menu, and not always available), steamed or fried dumplings filled with pork or shrimp. Cold beef flavored with star anise is an aromatic and refreshing appetizer, as is gallina fina (cold steamed chicken served with dipping sauces). The soup selection includes an unusual hot-and-sour seafood version. Main courses include the usual meat (lots of viscera for the adventurous) and a superb pato rostizado estilo Guangdong (duck braised in a gingery brown sauce, showered with scallions). Pollo con nuez de la India—diced chicken, celery, jicama, and baby corn—was a mild dish where individual flavors stood out. Whole steamed fish with ginger and scallions is a specialty, fresh and perfectly done. A bubbling cazuela of berenjena con jarabe de pescado sounded odd, but purely chinese Don’t come here looking for tortillas. was a perfect combination of sweet eggplant strips and mild seafood sauce. Salt and pepper shrimp deep-fried in their edible shells were crispy, salty, sweet, and juicy. Vegetarian choices include tofu frío bathed in chili sauce and smothered with sesame seeds and scallions. Verdura china (bok choy) appears in many guises (perfect with chorizo chino), as do mustard greens and other seasonal vegetables like estropajo (loofa)—best to ask what’s fresh. Try agua de sandia (watermelon) or a refreshingly tart limonada if you don’t want beer or tea with your meal. We recommend going with a group and sharing the ample dishes—round tables accommodate 8 to 10 people. Albino García 362, at the corner of Av. Santa Anita in Colonia Viaducto Piedad. Open 7 days a week until midnight. Telephone 5538 2368. Cost: $100-150 per person. Getting there • If driving, take Viaducto to Eje 1 Oriente, head south on Calle Andrés Molina Enriquez to Santa Anita, and turn right—Albino García is seven blocks ahead (you’ll pass “Café Paisaje Chino,” don’t confuse the two). • You can also walk from Metro Viaducto. Nicholas Gilman is author of Good Food in Mexico City: A Guide to Food Stalls, Fondas and Fine Dining. His website is www.mexicocityfood.net Jim Johnston is author of Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler. His blog is www.mexicocitydf.blogspot.com The authors live in Mexico City. Their books are available at all major online booksellers. Some say “we are what we eat”… Guided visits through Mexico City’s most emblematic sites, museums, restaurants and markets with a special focus on art and culinary history. Strictly private, full-service tours include: ✓ Specialized, fully-bilingual guide service ✓ Shuttle in private vehicle ✓ All entrance fees ✓ Tastings of Mexican fruits, vegetables, spices and delicacies. www.moremexico.com.mx • [email protected] +52 (55) 52112923 www.insidemex.com [ 23 ] Where (and when) to watch: Olympics preview Five-ring circus Who, When and Where to Watch B y J onathan J ucker M exico’s first Olympic appearance was at the 1900 Games in Paris. After taking a break to resolve some domestic issues, they participated again in 1924 and haven’t missed a summer Olympiad since, ignoring boycotts in Moscow ’80 and Los Angeles ’84. Despite the controversies surrounding the 1968 Olympics, Mexican Olympians collected nine medals (three each of gold, silver, and bronze) on their home turf, a figure that remains the top mark for the nation. The Beijing Games coincide with a rebuilding period for the country’s Olympic program as new Mexican Olympic Committee chief Carlos Hermosillo puts his stamp on the organization (see Perspective, page 7). Officials are soft-pedaling expectations; sports delegation leader Carlos Who to watch: Tania Elias Paola Calles Espinosa María Espinoza The great-granddaughter of 1920s and 30s Jefe Máximo Plutarco Elías Calles, currently the third-ranked female individual sailor in the world, is hoping to score Mexico’s first ever medal in sailing (Laser class). Current world and Pan American champion in Taekwondo (women’s under 72kg category), Espinoza is one of Mexico’s top prospects and should be considered a favorite to bring home the gold. At the 2004 Olympics in Athens, diver Espinosa made the finals of every event she competed in, placing fifth in the three- and tenmeter synchronized diving contests. In the 2007 Pan American Games in Rio de Janeiro she took gold in both three- and tenmeter individual diving and another in the three-meter synchro event, making her an important Mexican medal hopeful. [ 24 ] InsideMéxico July/ August 2008 Padilla told China’s Xinhua news agency: “We calculate seven or nine finals, and like I have said, anything can happen in a final.” One reason for this less-than-sanguine outlook is the failure of Mexico’s soccer teams—normally the hope of the nation—to book a berth at the games. The men’s team drew with Canada and lost to Guatemala, and Canada was also responsible for knocking the women’s squad out of contention. Mexico’s baseball hopes were crushed as well: the national team lost to the US, to Nicaragua, and took a 17-4 thumping at the hands of Panama (the mercy rule was invoked). This means that Mexico won’t be represented in what may be the last Olympic baseball tournament: the sport (and softball) has been dropped from the 2012 London Games and may not be reinstated. Óscar Valdez Eder Sánchez This seventeenyear-old boxer took the 2008 Mexican bantamweight title after beating the reigning Pan American champion, offsetting concerns about his inexperience. One of the world’s top competitors in the oft-mocked but heavily competitive sport of racewalking, Sánchez has won two major events so far this year, in Chihuahua and Krakow, Poland, and should be considered a favorite in the men’s 20km event. Vanessa Zambotti Judoka Zambotti earned a gold medal at the 2007 Pan American Games in the over 78kg class, and won three medals at the Olympic qualifying tournament earlier this year in Miami. Expect her to grapple and flip her way to the podium in Beijing. Beijing is thirteen hours ahead of Central Standard Time, meaning that during prime time in Mexico we will be able to watch live events held the following morning in China. TV: •TV Azteca holds the Mexican broadcast rights for the 2008 games. Check listings for Channel 7 (Channel 107 on Sky and Cablevision). •Those with satellite dishes can watch English-language coverage on NBC or CBC. NBC subsidiary Telemundo will also be broadcasting events in Spanish. Sports bars: Most every bar and restaurant in the city has a television, and chances are many will be tuned to Olympic broadcasts, especially when Mexican athletes are competing. Bars listed below have a big expat clientele and may show more events involving other national teams. The Black Horse •A Condesa expat institution and always a good spot to watch the big event. www.caballonegro.com Mexicali 85, Condesa, 5211 8740 King’s Pub •This chain of authentically fake Brit-pubs offers a relaxed, comfy atmosphere to watch the games over a pint. www.thekingspub.com Check website for locations. Irish Winds •A good selection of beers and a cozy atmosphere make this spot popular with the British and US Embassy crowd. Río Tíber 71, Cuauhtémoc, 5208 0513 The Beer Factory • Microbrews and mega-screens, conveniently located at a mall near you. www.beerfactory.com.mx Check website for locations. Caliente •If you like your Olympic viewing to come with a little action on the side (and not much in the way of ambience), head to this sports betting and slot palace. Numerous locations and cheap drinks make it the first choice for serious prognosticators. 01 800 027 3354 www.caliente.com.mx Check website for locations. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION altitude training Taking sports to a higher level competitor who works out at altitude are strength and endurance. It’s not easy to efore the 1968 Olympic Games in get used to the altitude but after a couple Mexico City, one of the biggest conof weeks you can see the results in the athcerns for trainers and athletes from lete’s performance. The Centro Ceremonial around the world was the altitude (2,240 Otomí is great for this kind of training. It meters above sea level). Adapting to the is located at 3,300 meters above the ocean, oxygen-deprived air would and if you go to the top of be difficult for many enthe mountain you’ll be at durance athletes. around 3,800 meters.” Once the Games were But why is it good over, however, the high for athletes? The Centro Ceremonial “When you are at a altitude was credited with Otomí is located fortycontributing to several higher altitude there five minutes from Toluca world records in sprints is less oxygen. This and an hour and a half and jumps. means you get less air from the DF. Since then, trainers to breathe, and you conVisitors are welcome and athletes have learned sume smaller amounts Tuesday to Sunday, from that exercising at high of oxygen which makes 9 am to 5 pm. altitude provides great your heart get bigger. www.ccotomi.com benefits. After training at high For athletic facilities you In 1980, amid a pine altitude, when you go to can visit www.imcufide. and oak forest northeast of a lower altitude you’re com/instalaciones/otomi. Toluca, the Centro Ceremoquicker and stronger, html# nial Otomí was built as a and the recovery time Location: Km. 10 on the tribute to the local Otomí for your heartbeat is highway from Temoaya culture. Now, the park is faster. Training at alto the Centro Ceremonial also a high-performance titude also stimulates Otomí, San Pedro Arriba, training center for world the production of red Municipio de Temoaya, class athletes, managed blood cells [a process Estado de México. by INCUFIDE (Mexico’s called erythropoiesis],” Tel: 01 (722) 167-5446 State Institute for Physical explains Garcia. Culture and Sports). Are there any disTiburcio Garcia, the advantages to altitude internationally recognized trainer of training? boxers José Luis “El Temible” Castillo “I don’t think there are any. I’ve seen and Jorge “El Travieso” Arce—both have only positive results. But you should be been world champions—explains the in shape before you get here, and it’s albenefits of training at high altitude. ways going to be better if you are guided “The most important benefits for a by a professional trainer.” M i x B y A na M aria P rado B Multidisciplinary experts treat every patient at the ABC Neurological Center. ABC Takes New Approach to Treating Neurological Disorders Get high! Photo by Ana Ma. Prado Centro Ceremonial Otomí W ith a quality of care that meets the highest international standards, ABC Medical’s Neurological Center takes an integrated approach to the prevention, diagnosis and treatment of neurological disorders. Patients in the unit are treated by an interdisciplinary group of healthcare professionals, who have years of experience not only in hands-on treatment, but also in education and cutting-edge research. Located within ABC’s Santa Fe Campus, the center is organized along the principle of “Service Lines”, which means that our medical team is able to give personal and individualized attention to each patient. The services offered range from diagnosis to treatment and rehabilitation, according to the needs of each individual. Treatment in ABC’s Neurological Center is broken down by specialty and subspecialty, giving our patients the best chance for a timely, accurate diagnosis, and thus a favorable outcome from their program of care. Our multidisciplinary approach helps us to treat the cause of the disorder as well as the symptoms, and we are committed to handling the entire patient with the best technology and knowledge that medicine has to offer, along with the nurturing, attentive environment that is necessary to foster the process of recovery. Santa Fe Campus Phone 1103-1600 ext. 4101 The ABC Medical Center in the continued pursuit of excellence in service, offers it’s international communities and patients Medicasa Department, which is another way we bring excellence in medical care to our patients. Our staff visits patients at their home or office, air and land transfers and we provide the equipment and therapies they need to follow their treatment on an outpatient basis. The Medicasa Department upholds the same quality that we demand in our inpatient facilities. • Observatorio Campus Phone: 5230-8000 Ext. 8200 • Santa Fe Campus Phone: 1103-1600 Ext.1700 www.insidemex.com [ 25 ] Fragile Paradise Where the sky meets the sea B y C atherine D unn C The Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an overlooks the Caribbean Sea south of Tulum. [ 26 ] InsideMéxico July/ August 2008 ameron Boyd was on vacation ten years ago when he discovered the 405-meter stretch of white beach. At the time, the oceanfront property was home to the ruins of an abandoned hotel and some chital palms. It sat just south of the Tulum archaeological site in the state of Quintana Roo, inside the Sian Ka’an Biosphere. Boyd bought it and turned the land into what is now the Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an (CESIAK), a collection of fifteen tent-cabins on stilts, a restaurant, and the launch point for tours of the Biosphere’s mangrove-filled lagoon, once part of a trade route in the Mayan empire. The business’s revenues maintain a staff of thirty-four and pay for environmental educational programs for schoolchildren in Tulum, beach cleanups, and staff to monitor the four turtle species that nest here beginning each May. The founding principle of the project was to combine ecological and economic sustainability. He was interested, he says, in “a way to combine some income-generating activity with conservation work.” As a commercial venture inside the Biosphere, CESIAK has to abide by a lengthy list of strict rules. “We’re very much regulated in everything we do— which I think is a positive thing,” Boyd says. For example, CESIAK’s structures can cover only 1 to 2 percent of the total surface area of the property. All of their equipment, down to the kayaks, is documented, registered, and insured. Voluntarily, CESIAK captures rain water, runs mostly on wind and solar power, and employs composting and special waste treatment systems—all while catering to about 500 people per month who sign-up for kayaking, boating, bird-watching, and fishing tours. “I think the answer is ‘Yes, it can work’,” says Boyd, 34, who wrote a college thesis on protected lands in Africa before becoming an environmental sciences teacher. In addition to CESIAK, he now owns a similar ecological center in Belize. “Certainly no one’s getting rich off of it,” he adds, “[but] it is self-funding.” Sian Ka’an, which means “where the sky begins,” encompasses about 657,000 hectares that include the coral reef in the turquoise Caribbean Sea off the coast, the powdery beaches, and the lagoon on the other side of a narrow dirt-packed road. The area became a UNESCO biosphere in 1986, and is regulated by the Mexican government according to the United Nations’ “Man and the Biosphere” guidelines. A core zone—“where no activity can take place whatsoever,” Boyd explains—is surrounded by a buffer zone of palm-dotted land, lagoon, beaches, and coral reefs. CESIAK leads its tours in this buffer zone. My cousin and I were signed up for one on a windwhipped day. We looked to the skies and questioned whether we should be venturing into the Sian Ka’an biosphere reserve by boat. But no matter: our guide Jorge, an ornithologist who has been working as a researcher in the biosphere for ten years, picked us up at our hotel in Tulum, and the van bumped down the road from Sian Ka’an’s northern entrance. Over the next several hours we explored seven ecosystems on foot, by boat, and floating in life jackets through the mangroves. Starting with our backs to the roiling sea, we picked our way along the spongy, damp floor of the chital forest, where blue crabs scurried sideways and termite nests clung to tree trunks. We came out from the chital and found ourselves among the gray-button, white, and black mangroves before boarding a small motorboat that took us into the labyrinthine channels of mangrove and savanna islands. We spotted orchids, cormorants, herons, and stopped at a little Mayan temple. The Mayans traded fruits and cacao along these waters, from the Yucatán peninsula to El Salvador, Guatemala, and Belize. By the time we circled back to CESIAK for lunch, we were thoroughly soaked—not just from our swim through the mangroves, but from Tropical Storm Arthur, which broke while we were on our tour. In fact, hurricanes pose the biggest threat to CESIAK’s business. Tourist traffic drops after one strikes, and there are high rebuilding costs. If a hurricane were to destroy part of the center, they could rebuild, but unlike the proprietors of hotels and bungalows just a few kilometers away on Tulum’s tourist strip, they would have to pass through a rigorous review and permit process all over again. Boyd says it certainly would have been easier to set up a straight tourism venture outside the biosphere. And there are times when the financial risk can seem “scary.” But the business is standing on its own legs, the turtles are nesting, and hundreds of school kids are learning about their neighboring ecosystem. Boyd thinks he’s stayed true to the vision he had a decade ago. “I’m pretty proud of that,” he says. M i x Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an Federal Road (307) Cancun-Tulum, #68. Tulum, Quintana Roo Telephone: (52) 984-871-2499 Web: www.cesiak.org Email: [email protected] www.insidemex.com [ 27 ] Inside México talks with Darryl Bowie Puerto Vallarta all prices in US dollars Inside México: What percentage of your clients are Americans? Canadians? Mexicans? D arryl B owie : Mexicans and Americans are about 40 percent each; 20 percent are Canadian. IM: Are they buying second homes, or primary residence? DB: The majority are looking at second homes. Those looking for retirement are seeing more products and we expect higher numbers in the future. One thing to remember is the “Dream”—a place in the sun where family and friends can reunite and rejuvenate, and this dream is not going away; it is simply on hold. IM: What price range are they looking in? DB: Those wanting it all under $250,000 find prices are much higher. The market under $400,000 is strong. The soft range is $500,000-$1 million: choices are fantastic but a ‘wait-and-see’ mentality is affecting this sector. This is where the best deals can be made. After $1 million [ 28 ] InsideMéxico July/ August 2008 we see sophisticated investors looking long-term. IM: What kind of amenities are they requesting? DB: Condo buyers want it all: concierge services, spa, business center, restaurant, water sports, children’s area, and more. Properties are branding themselves in unique ways. ICON Vallarta has the brand power of Philippe Starck. San Pancho bills itself as a cultural center, while Tahemia and Sensara, with on-site medical concierge, target active retirees. Luma is adults-only. Home buyers want colonial architecture; high-end condos are going modular, with separate living, sleeping, and entertaining areas. IM: What distinguishes the area from other coastal communities in Mexico? DB: People are friendly, helpful, and happy. Arts and music are a vibrant part of the community; the variety of dining is world-class. The climate is consistently pleasant. The annual whale migration is a major tourist attraction. All the golf gurus are building here; Nicklaus, Weiskopf, Norman. It is accessible from every major airport in North America within a four-hour flight time. IM: Do your clients feel like they’re moving to a foreign country? DB: This is a foreign country and you feel it, you like it, you want to understand it, yet there are enough English-speaking nationals to make yourself understood. Folks here are very accommodating. IM: Is access to medical care a consideration? DB: Puerto Vallarta has some of the best [care] in Mexico. There is the San Javier Marine Hospital and a new AmeriMed hospital under construction, and a new oncology facility. North Americans come for dental work and elective surgery: it’s faster, better, and costs less. Not to mention a very nice place to recover IM: What other major lifestyle considerations do your clients take into account? DB: Activities: [residents can] golf, hike, fish, surf, sail, dive, and more. The other question is ‘How can I contribute to the community?’ Expats are very active in the community with volunteer work and philanthropy. IM: Has the market been affected by the real estate turmoil in the US? DB: [Buyers] are more cautious, shopping for the perfect property and in some categories we are seeing prices drop, but it is not a wholesale reaction to the US situation, and Canadians are buying. IM: What is your forecast for home prices in Puerto Vallarta for the rest of 2008? DB: [Prices] remained mostly flat for the past six months and are now trending downward. Once another winter hits the North and the election has been decided, we believe the market will tick upwards slightly in the first quarter [of 2009]. IM: Which area do you think represents a “bargain” for buyers from the US? DB: New condo construction that has recently come to market, with an owner/speculator leveraged in the $500,000-$700,000 range. The other area is single-family homes in good neighborhoods in the low- to mid$400,000 range. Anything oceanfront around $1.5 million is primed for price reduction. These areas are Conchas Chinas/Amapas, Old Town, Las Glorias, and Nuevo Vallarta. M i x Darryl K. Bowie is the assistant general manager of Coldwell Banker, La Costa Realty: www.cblacosta.com. Usonians of the world, unite! It’s time to get our terms right B y J osé F ernández R amos I ’m going to tell all of you folks from the United States who call yourselves “Americans” something that’s going to hurt: you are wrong, especially if you call your neighbors Canadians, Cubans, and Mexicans. We are all Americans, just like our friends in Brazil, Venezuela, Chile, and Bolivia. So let’s start calling things by their right name. If that didn’t hurt enough, here is the next blow: you are Usonians. Like it or not that’s what you are, so you’d better get used to it. The term, short for United States of North America, was in fact coined by the talented Usonian architect Frank Lloyd Wright. Wright was a true believer in the Usonian dream, who hoped to provide every Usonian with an affordable home during the Great Depression of the 1930s. Wright’s term was later picked up by the gifted writer and proud Usonian John Dos Passos, in his classic USA Trilogy, which describes the United States during the first three decades of the twentieth century. Today, Wright is recognized as the “greatest Usonian architect of all time” by the Usonian Institute of Architects, unfortunately misnamed the American Institute of Architects (www.aia.org). Many of Wright’s concepts still play an important role in modern architecture, and he was an early innovator in industrial building techniques. Because he incorporated materials from the surrounding environment in his construction projects, he is considered the father of “organic architecture.” Wright’s series of ranch-style “Usonian Houses,” uniquely suited to the Usonian landscape, do not look dated all these years later, and were pioneering environmentally-friendly projects. Many of these homes survive in the Chicago suburb of Oak Park, Illinois as monuments to this Usonian genius. Wright’s contribution to linguistics, however, has been deliberately neglected for ! p i t the Get [ 30 ] InsideMéxico May 2008 decades in culture, education, and politics. It is time that we give this great hero of a great nation the recognition he deserves by officially adopting his term with pride. So, people of the United States, make your choice: you can either be proud Usonians or gullible gringos fooled into thinking you are the only Americans. When I raise this point with my Usonian friends they tend to get defensive and say, for example, “Wait a second, I’m a New Yorker”, or “I am an Iowan.” Well, let me tell you, there’s no escape this time. Come on people, accept what you are! You’re Usonians. No more. No less. Be proud! Regardless of whether you back Obama or McCain, you will be casting a ballot for a Usonian president, who speaks Usonian English. The whole event is followed by the Usonian media, and most of you probably work for, or use the services of, a Usonian company. Many of my friends think I’m nuts to push for this language reform. They say the idea is even crazier than trying to break the narco’s lucrative business by legalizing drugs. In response, I always paraphrase a brilliant speech by another great Usonian, Martin Luther King, Jr., and reply: I have a dream, I have a vision that one day when I land in JFK or LAX I will see a big banner from the plane window: “Welcome to Usonia!.” If you like the idea, tell your friends and collect signatures. If you do, I promise to take a plane to meet with the Usonian Congress and have them amend the Usonian Constitution to please all Americans, from the Arctic to Tierra del Fuego. If you disagree let me know by email. If I get more hate mail than support letters I’ll quit and let you know. However, I’m pretty sure I will be speaking to the Usonian government very soon. M i x Editor’s note: The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Inside México. Feel free to send comments, praise, or insults to José Fernández Ramos. [email protected] the tip is a free weekly email newsletter by . It’s your inside track on how to live a better, smarter, more enjoyable life in Mexico. Email [email protected] and tell us you’d like to receive the tip! Thorny Robinson is gone © 2008 W BY: Stan Gotlieb e grieve the loss of Thornton Robinson, fifteenyear resident of Oaxaca and good friend, who was snatched from us in an auto accident in Toluca in mid-May. Our hearts go out to his wife Jane, and their children Jean, Chris, and Amanda. Their loss, while incomparable, is nonetheless shared by scores of close friends; the staff of Casa Colonial, their bed and breakfast; the dozens of artisans whose works he and Jane promoted; the Oaxaca Lending Library which they strongly supported; the many charitable and cultural organizations in which they have been involved; and the entire expatriate community of his adopted city. I could take the time (and space) to list his accomplishments, and all the wonderful things he did for so many people, but—while pleased by having done them—it would probably make Thorny uncomfortable. He didn’t do things to get his name on plaques or to build the “right” im- Thorny Robinson made Oaxaca his home for fifteen years. age, but rather because they seemed to him to be the right things to do. “Do”. That’s the key word. Thorny was not a talker (though he was a scholar), but rather a doer. Right now, I can’t recall a single story about Thorny from our friendship, which spanned more than a decade, but I can tell you how it felt. It felt like being at home. In spite of our occasional (and sometimes heated) political disagreements, we were good to each other, and I never heard him utter a pejorative remark about anyone—except maybe George W. Bush. I know that it is said that people are prone to forget the bad things about those who have died, and idealize their memories. I can only tell you I have done my best not to do that. Still, the overwhelming truth about Thorny Robinson is that he was a gentle, generous, caring person, the like of which we see all too rarely. Oaxaca will be poorer for his loss. According to his wishes, Thorny is buried in the Panteón Generál, Oaxaca’s large municipal cemetery. Condolences can be sent to his family at [email protected] M i x www.insidemex.com [ 31 ]