Terres de Lleida
Transcripción
Terres de Lleida
Portada angles lleida.qxp 28/7/11 17:38 Página 1 Agència Catalana de Turisme Terres de Lleida Catalonia Terres de Lleida Generalitat de Catalunya Government of Catalonia Ministry of Enterprise and Labour Portada angles lleida.qxp 28/7/11 17:38 Página 2 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Catalonia 28/7/11 16:31 Página 1 Terres de Lleida Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Garrigues 28/7/11 16:31 Noguera Página 2 Pla d’Urgell Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Segarra 28/7/11 16:31 Página 3 Segrià Urgell Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 4 Introduction The tourist region of Terres de Lleida is a vast plain, south of the Pyrenees, which forms the western part of the Catalan Central Lowlands, themselves part of the great Ebro basin. Its main artery is the river Segre and Lleida has been its capital since ancient times. Terres de Lleida borders on Aragon to the west; the Segarra plateau separates it from the region of Catalunya Central in the east; and it extends as far as the lofty Monstant range and the Ebro valley in the south. The climate – Mediterranean, tending towards continental – is characteristic of the Catalan hinterland, where the mild, humid Mediterranean air meets the mountain ranges close to the coast. Hence the climate is drier than in other parts of Catalonia, with a wider temperature range (higher maximums and lower minimums). The countryside is mainly flat though on the northern side the great, rugged crest of the Montsec range – subdivided into Montsec d’Ares and Montsec de Rubies – rises to nearly 1,700 m between the plain and the Pyrenees. The narrow gorges of Mont-rebei and Terradets cut through Montsec, allowing two large rivers, the Noguera 4 Ribagorçana and Noguera Pallaresa, to flow out onto the plain. The Segre meanders through the gentler highlands to the east where the Rialb reservoir was built some years ago. The Noguera Ribagorçana and Noguera Pallaresa join the Segre near Corbins and Camarasa, respectively, in the comarca of Noguera. Thanks to this network of rivers, the region's economy and even its landscape were radically transformed in the second half of the 19th century by the construction of the Urgell Canal. Some 70,000 ha of land in the comarques of Urgell, Segrià, Pla d'Urgell, Noguera and Les Garrigues were made fertile by the main and secondary canals. Another large expanse to the west, along the border with Aragon, is irrigated by the Pinyana Canal and the Canal of Aragon and Catalonia. The latter is fed by the rivers Éssera and Cinca. The Cinca flows into the Segre at La Granja d’Escarp, downstream from Lleida. Terres de Lleida is rich in archaeological remains (notably at Cogul, Tornabous, Guissona and El Bovalar). Most are from the Iberian and Roman periods and show that the region was inhabited in 28/7/11 16:31 Página 5 Olive groves in Les Garrigues Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 5 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 6 Tàrrega. Shrine of Sant Eloi 6 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 7 the far-distant past. During the period when Catalonia was taking shape – the early Middle Ages – this particular area was still dominated by the Muslims. Parts of it came under Christian rule in the 11th century – Cervera, for instance, which was joined to the earldom of Barcelona, or Balaguer, which became the capital of the earldom of Urgell. But the powerful taifa of Lleida, which governed a large stretch of territory, was not overthrown until 1149. Throughout this gradual occupation of Islamic lands, the region was a frontierland. As a result, numerous castles were built along the borders, mainly in the 10th and 11th centuries, for defensive purposes and to facilitate resettlement. In ecclesiastical terms, the region is split between the diocese of Lleida – which for many centuries included part of Aragon – and that of Urgell, based in La Seu d’Urgell. A smaller area (round Cervera and Tàrrega) belongs to the diocese of Solsona. In feudal times, the major towns and cities – Lleida, Cervera, Balaguer, Tàrrega, Agramunt – had royal charters and were the capitals of vegueries (magis- Lleida. Murals of the Pia Almoina (MLDC) 7 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 8 Urgell Canal 8 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 9 Verdú. Church of Santa Maria 9 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 10 Montfalcó Murallat tracies). Throughout the region there were also civil domains (the viscountcy of Àger, the marquisate of Camarasa, and others) and ecclesiastical ones (including Gardeny, Bellpuig de les Avellanes, Vallbona de les Monges, and Escarp). The tourist attractions of Terres de Lleida are numerous and varied. The scenery is primarily farmland: fertile orchards in Segrià and Noguera, extensive olive groves in Les Garrigues, cornfields in Segarra, and vineyards producing wine bearing the Costers del Segre label. The Montsec area offers some magnificent rugged mountain scenery which opens up into the lovely Àger valley. 10 The many attractions of the capital, Lleida, include historic buildings, culture, shopping, and good eating. Many of the smaller towns, such as Cervera, Tàrrega, Balaguer, Agramunt and Les Borges Blanques, are well worth visiting as well. The architectural heritage is rich and diverse, ranging from intriguing archaeological sites to medieval civil and religious buildings. A tasty and varied cuisine made with top-quality local produce – vegetables, fruit, olive oil, and wine –, popular festivals, and facilities for nature sports are further attractions which make Terres de Lleida a delightful place to visit. Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 11 Apple tree plantation 11 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 12 The city of Lleida Lleida, the largest city and economic hub of the Catalan hinterland, stretches along the right bank of the Segre. Above it rises an ancient Arab fortress – La Suda – and the old cathedral – La Seu Vella – which is the most characteristic feature of its skyline. The old quarter runs parallel to the river, at the foot of the hill. The main thoroughfare and shopping street is the bustling Carrer Major. The new residential district – the Eixample – is located round Plaça de Ricard Viñes, behind the hill, towards the roads to Huesca and Val d'Aran. The newer districts, including Cappont, the site of the new university campus, are on the other side of the Segre. Lleida, as a provincial capital and an important and ancient episcopal seat, has many institutions and public buildings. It is also an agricultural town, surrounded by lush orchards, market gardens and a fertile plain. In recent decades it has become an industrial city as well – mainly food processing – and a service centre. It has a long tradition of trade and offers a wide range of shopping facilities. The new university has vitalized the city's cultural life. 12 Lleida's history dates back to Iberian times, when it was the fortified capital of the Ilergetes tribe (4th3rd C BC) whose chieftains, Indibilis and Mandonius, fought the Scipios in the 2nd Punic War (218-205 BC) and became symbols of the native population's resistance to Rome. Even so the city was Romanized (under the name Ilerda) and became a key objective in the civil war between Julius Caesar and Pompey, as related by Caesar in De Bello Civile and by the poet Lucan in Pharsalia. Lleida grew thanks to its strategic position on the road from the Mediterranean to the heart of the peninsula, at the intersection of several rivers that flow down from the Pyrenees. It is documented as a bishopric from the 5th century. During its four hundred years under Muslim rule (719-1149), it was a key bastion on the Upper Frontier, initially within the sphere of influence of the emirate and caliphate of Cordova, and as an independent taifa from the 11th century onwards. The Arabs erected the fortress of La Suda on the Roca Sobirana, built walls round the city, and dug a vast network of canals and irrigation ditches on the surrounding plain, thus laying the basis for future agricultural prosperity. 28/7/11 16:31 Página 13 La Seu Vella Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 13 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 14 In 1149 Lleida was conquered by the Catalan counts Ramon Berenguer IV of Barcelona and Ermengol VI of Urgell, who shared the domain between them. The Templars received one-fifth of the land and the Gardeny fortress. Jaume I granted the city a royal charter and set up a municipal regime (Consell General de la Paeria – 1264) which extended the privileges contained in the original charter of settlement (1150). When the bishopric was restored, a magnificent cathedral was built on the Roca Mitjana. The Estudi General de Lleida, founded by Jaume II in 1300, was the main university in his realms and for a time the only one. Because of its strategic location, Lleida was frequently besieged and attacked. The bloodiest sieges took place during the War of the Reapers (Siege of Saint Cecilia, 1646) and the War of the Spanish Succession (1707). Soon after the latter war, Philip V abolished the city's most distinctive features: the Estudi General – all Catalan universities were transferred to Cervera –, the Paeria – which became a Bourbon-style municipal authority – and the cathedral (Seu Vella), which was turned into a barracks. Overshadowed by the fortified bastion on the hill, Lleida went into decline, and resignation and provincialism became the keynotes of city life. The revival got underway in the second half of the 19th century when the walls were demolished (1861) and the railway arrived. The Renaixença movement – the rebirth of Catalan culture – and Catalan nationalism acquired considerable impetus in the city. The dominant trait of Lleida's profile is the massive Seu Vella, the original cathedral, which was built in transition Romanesque-Gothic style (1315th C) on the site of a former mosque. The striking front cloister has fine Gothic windows with tracery and affords splendid views of the city, the river and the agricultural plain. The magnificent doorways – notably those of Els Fillols and L’Anunciata – are the work of artists from the socalled Lleida School, whose style is a blend between Romanesque austerity and Arabian and oriental fantasy. The severe but spacious interior 14 Auditorium Enric Granados Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 15 has a Latin-cross ground plan and a forest of slender columns. The superb 14-15th C bell tower rises to a height of 70 m at one end of the cloister, beside the door of Els Apòstols. Above La Seu stand the ruins of the La Suda (El Castell del Rei), a solid, compact building that was once the residence of the Arab walis but was extensively altered by the Catalan monarchs. Only the shell remains (the tower on one corner has recently been restored). Two picturesque old streets, Carrer de Cavallers and Carrer de la Palma, connect the upper part of the old city with Carrer Major. On Carrer de Cavallers (formerly called El Romeu) stands the old Dominican convent of El Roser. Now the home of the Museu de Pintura Jaume Morera, it has a Baroque church and a three-storey cloister and is to be converted into a Parador hotel. To the west rises the church of Sant Llorenç, built at the same period as the Seu Vella, which has an attractive porticoed doorway and a slender bell tower. Inside is an excellent collection of Gothic stone altarpieces – dedicated to Saint Lawrence, Saint Peter, Saint Lucy, and others – and some fine sculptures including a 15th C Madonna (Mare de Déu de la Candelera), Sant Miquel (late 14th C), and a restored crucifix – El Sant Crist Trobat – which is the object of a legend. The new Museu de Lleida Diocesà i Comarcal – in the Carrer del Sant Crist, off the Rambla d’Aragó – houses an extensive collection, among other contributions consisting of the centenary collections from several of the city’s institutions, such as the Institut d’Estudis Ilerdencs, the Museu Diocesà, or the cathedral. Parc de la Mitjana The new cathedral (Seu Nova), built in the 18th century when the Seu Vella was turned into a barracks, stands on Carrer Major, the main street in the old city. Pedro Martín Cermeño was the architect of this interesting Neoclassical building, which was consecrated in 1781. The magnificent choir with sculptures by Lluís Bonifaç was de- 15 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 16 stroyed in 1936 but surviving features include the archive and a Madonna (Mare de Déu del Blau). Facing it, the old building of the Hospital de Santa Maria (15–16th C), which has a beautiful central courtyard, is practically the only exponent of Civil Gothic architecture from this period in western Catalonia. It houses the Institut d’Estudis Ilerdencs, a cultural institution with a long tradition but also a modern outlook. Further east along Carrer Major, past the chapel of El Peu del Romeu and Placeta de Sant Francesc – where the Modernist-style Casa Melcior is located –, we reach the Paeria (city hall), a 13th C Gothic mansion with a small local archaeological museum in the basement. Next we come to the Porxos de Dalt and Porxos de Baix, with the Teatre Principal on one side and the Modernist-style former Hotel Palace on the other. There are archaeological remains beneath a nearby square – Plaça de Sant Joan – which has recently been developed on the basis of a controversial, avant-garde project by Basque architect Peña Ganchegui. Beside the Arc del Pont – the old gate into the walled city – stands a monument to Indibilis and Mandonius, the heroes of the Ilergetes, which is a replica of a sculpture by Medard Sanmartí. We cross the Pont Vell to reach the Camps Elisis, a park with a Romantic atmosphere where Noucentista-style houses and trade fair buildings are located. Other points of interest – slightly removed from this route – are the castle and church in the architectural complex of Gardeny – once a prominent commandry of the Knights Templar (12th C), which forms part of a Templar route – the Romanesque church of Sant Martí, the Museu Numismàtic de la Diputació Provincial (coin Cloister of La Seu Vella 16 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 17 collections), the Modernist-style Cases Noves on Rambla d’Aragó, the Auditori Enric Granados (1994 - a concert hall which is also the conservatoire), the Acadèmia Mariana (a neo-Romanesque shrine), and the railway station, built in Noucentista style by Adolf Florensa, at the end of Rambla de Ferran. many popular restaurants and music bars. On summer evenings, Gardeny hill is another popular gathering place. On the city outskirts is the Parc de la Mitjana comprising 90 ha of lush vegetation which has been declared of natural interest and is ideal for strolling, practising sports and watching wildlife. Lleida’s vibrant shopping district The upper city (or Eixample, on the north side) is the scene of most of Lleida's night life, notably round Plaça de Ricard Viñes, where there are 17 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 18 La Paeria (City Hall). Altarpiece by Jaume Ferrer II (15 thC), detail 18 28/7/11 16:31 Página 19 Hospital de Santa Maria Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 19 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 20 28/7/11 16:31 Página 20 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 21 21 Church of Sant Martí Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 22 28/7/11 16:31 Página 22 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 23 La Seu Vella Turó de la Seu Vella Tel. (+34) 973 230 653 www.mhcat.net Roda Roda. Automobile Museum Santa Cecília, 22 Tel. (+34) 973 212 635 www.museudelautomociodelleida.cat Lleida Diocesan and County Museum Sant Crist, 1 Tel. (+34) 973 283 075 www.museudelleida.cat Lleida Water Museum Av. de Miquel Batllori, 52 (la Bordeta) Tel. (+34) 973 211 992 www.museudelaiguadelleida.cat Paeria Museum Pl. Paeria, 1 Tel. (+34) 902 250 050 Enric Granados Auditorium Pl. Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer, s/n Tel. (+34) 973 223 320 www.turismedelleida.cat www.paeria.cat Jaume Morera Museum of Art Major, 31 (Edifici Casino) Tel. (+34) 973 700 419 www.paeria.es/mmorera Institut d’Estudis Ilerdencs (Archaeological Room and Coin Collection) Pl. Catedral, s/n Tel. (+34) 973 271 500 www.fpiei.cat Government of Catalonia Tourist Information Office in Lleida and LleidaAlguaire Airport (see page 85) Interpretation Centre of the Order of the Temple Gardeny Turó de Gardeny Tel. (+34) 973 271 942 www.domusempli.com La Panera Art Centre Pl. Panera, 2 Tel. (+34) 973 262 185 www.lapanera.cat Leandre Cristòfol Room Av. Blondel, 42 Tel. (+34) 973 700 419 23 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 24 A few cities and towns: Cervera, Balaguer, Agramunt, Ponts and Àger Many localities in Terres de Lleida which are not on run-of-the-mill tourist routes – because they are far from the coast and major holiday resorts – deserve to be better known because they have preserved the character and charm of bygone years and a rich architectural heritage. Cervera stands on a hill on the right bank of the Ondara, at the heart of the Segarra plateau of which it is the capital. Built round a fortified castle which was conquered by Ramon Berenguer I, it grew outwards on either side of the picturesque Carrer Major (main street). Its importance from the Middle Ages onwards is attested by its magnificent architectural heritage and the historic events that took place there: the Catalan parliament met here in 1359 to consolidate the country's institution of government, the Diputació del General or Generalitat, and it was here too that the marriage contract between Ferdinand II of Catalonia and Aragon and Isabel of Castile was signed. But the key event in Cervera's history occurred at the end of the War of the Spanish Succession when Philip V, as a reward for the city's loyalty to his cause, founded a university there which was to be the only one in the whole of Catalonia (Decree of Nova 24 Planta, 1718). This sparked off a period of cultural vitality which lasted until the start of the Renaixença. The vast university building, at one end of the old quarter, is Cervera's foremost landmark. It was built in Neoclassical style (1718-1740) but has Baroque elements on the façade and in the main lecture hall, the chief feature of which is the magnificent reredos by Jaume Padró. Nowadays it houses various cultural institutions. At the other end of the old quarter rises the impressive Gothic collegial church of Santa Maria (13-15th C), with its octagonal bell tower. Inside are some remarkable works of sculpture, including a Baroque altar (El Santíssim Misteri). On the largely porticoed Plaça Major nearby stands the Paeria (city hall), a fine 17th C Renaissance building which was enlarged in the 18th century. The balcony rests on interesting consoles depicting the five senses, figures from the market, etc. In the interior some Gothic rooms have been uncovered in recent years. Other places of interest are: the church of Sant Antoni (of medieval origin); the Hospital Berenguer de Castelltort (Neoclassical); the Museu Duran i Sanpere (on Carrer Major, 28/7/11 16:31 Página 25 Cervera Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 25 28/7/11 16:31 Página 26 Balaguer Terres de Lleida gb.qxd the ancestral home of the distinguished historian after whom it is named); the round Romanesque church of Sant Pere Gros (11th C), on the outskirts; and the Modernist-style sindicat (agricultural cooperative) by Cèsar Martinell. Certain stretches of the medieval walls, which were reinforced by Pere "the Ceremonious" (1368) during the war against Castile, are in very good condition. Balaguer, the chief town of Noguera and former seat of the medieval earldom of Urgell, stands on the right bank of the Segre. The original fortified Muslim settlement was built on a terrace (Pla d’Almatà – later Pla del Real) high above the river. Long stretches of walls still rise above the medieval quarter, which lies along the river bank with Plaça del Mercadal – one of Catalonia's largest porticoed squares – at its centre. The town hall overlooks the square, where the market is held every Saturday. There are also some quaint porticoed streets. Over the river is the residential district (Davant Balaguer). A monument to Gaspar de Portolà recalls the famous explorer of Lower California who was born in Balaguer. 26 Balaguer was once a major Andalusi fortress dominated by the Banu Qasi dynasty. Following the Christian conquest (1005), the Arab castle (Castell Formós) became the residence of the Counts of Urgell. It was destroyed in 1413 after Ferdinand of Antequera – Ferran I – besieged the town during the struggle for the succession to the Catalan-Aragonese crown, a conflict sparked off by the refusal of the Count of Urgell, Jaume "the Misfortunate", to accept the Compromise of Casp. The precinct has been excavated and the finds are in the Museu Comarcal. The church of Santa Maria d’Almatà, erected on the site of the former mosque, became the chapel of a monastery of Poor Clares in the 14th century. It was enlarged in the 17th century and subsequently converted into the shrine of El Sant Crist, a place of popular devotion where a Gothic-style crucifix (remade in 1947) is venerated. From the other end of the terrace, the large Gothic church of Santa Maria (formerly a collegiate church) dominates the town. Work on it began in 1351 but it was not consecrated till 1558. It has a Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 27 wide nave and a slender polygonal bell tower and affords a good panorama of the surrounding area. The convent of Sant Domènec – originally Dominican, now Franciscan – stands at the end of the bridge. It was built on instructions left by Count Ermengol X in his will (1314). Of special note is the Gothic cloister with its slim, delicate columns (akin to that of Sant Francesc in Majorca). Some 3 km from Balaguer are the ruins of a 1213th C Romanesque church which once belonged to a monastery of Cistercian nuns, Santa Maria de les Franqueses. Agramunt (Urgell), in the Ribera de Sió area, near the Urgell canal, was already a bustling town with an ancient market and numerous guilds back in the Middle Ages. Proof of this is the magnificent high relief on the lintel of the parish church of Santa Maria, which was commissioned in 1283 by the weavers' guild. The 12-13th C church, one of the finest Romanesque buildings in Terres de Lleida, has three aisles and three apses. The doorway is one of the Lleida School of sculptors' most outstanding achievements: archivolts adorned with rows of saints and virgins, carved capitals, and the high relief already mentioned, showing Mary, the Annunciation and the Epiphany. The 14th C lantern on the bell tower recalls those at Poblet and Vallbona. Agramunt was captured from the Arabs in 1070 by Count Ermengol IV of Urgell. In 1163 his descendant, Ermengol VII, gave the town a generous charter of settlement and Agramunt was in effect the earldom's chief town until 1314. The old quarter still has some fine porticoed streets and a large porticoed square, Plaça del Mercadal. The magnificent Casa de la Vila (town hall), built in the Baroque period, has semicircular arches resting on pillars and a three-part balcony on the first floor. The old castle and walls (shown in a 17th C engraving by Beaulieu) were destroyed. The for- Cervera. Corbel on the Paeria 27 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 28 Agramunt. Church of Santa Maria mer market houses the Museu Etnològic Municipal (1980) and the Espai Guinovart (works by the artist Josep Guinovart and illustrations of the world that inspired them). Agramunt is famous for its traditional sweets: torrons d’Agramunt (made from hazelnuts and honey) and xocolata a la pedra (chocolate). A special fair is dedicated to them in October (Fira del Torró i Xocolata a la Pedra). Ponts is another town with a long history and an ancient market. It lies at the eastern tip of 28 Noguera, near the confluence of the Llobregós and the Segre, at the intersection of ancient highways (one from Puigcerdà to Lleida, the other to Igualada). The old quarter, with its porticoed streets and squares, is overlooked by the hillock of Les Forques, where the ruins of Ponts castle still stand. In medieval times it was an important fortress in the earldom of Urgell, commanded by a distinguished noble family named Ponts. The magnificent Romanesque church below it belonged to the Augustinian canonry of Sant Pere de Ponts. It has a single nave, three cross-shaped Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:31 Página 29 Àger apses, Lombard-style decoration on the outside, and a large eight-sided lantern which once supported a belfry. Construction began in 1143 thanks to large donations, primarily from Ermengol VI of Urgell, for the purpose of setting up a Benedictine monastery. The canonry was created instead (1169) and survived until the 16th century. Near Ponts one can also visit the remains of the Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Gualter, which was built in Romanesque times. At the other end of the comarca of Noguera, the town of Àger stands on a knoll in a broad, sunlit valley at the foot of Montsec d’Ares. It was once a important medieval viscountcy and some important ruins still remain. Àger was founded by the legendary Arnau Mir de Tost, a knight in the service of the counts of Urgell, who captured the site from the Muslims. After it finally fell in 1047, he extended his domains throughout the zone and resettled it. The viscountcy was set up later by Ermengol V of Urgell. Arnau founded the Augustinian collegiate church of Sant Pere d’Àger in the precinct of the powerful fortified castle. The ruins, which have been reinforced, reveal a spacious 11th C crypt with three aisles, and a handsome 12th C church, also with three aisles and three apses. Only the middle apse juts out and it has niches inside with semi-columns and carved capitals. The cloister was built in Gothic style (1415th C). There are also impressive vestiges of the two sets of walls, reinforced by round towers, which encircled the castle, the collegiate church and the old town. Inside the parish church of Sant Vicenç, in the lower part of the town, there is a fine Roman sarcophagus. An astronomical park will soon be set up near Àger. 29 Ponts. Church of Sant Pere Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 30 28/7/11 16:32 Página 30 Balaguer. Boundary cross and shrine of El Sant Crist Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:32 Página 31 Cervera County Museum Major, 115 Tel. (+34) 973 533 917 www.museudecervera.com Noguera Museum in Balaguer Pl. Comtes d'Urgell, 5 Tel. (+34) 973 445 194 www.museucn.com Guinovart Centre in Agramunt Pl. Mercat, s/n Tel. (+34) 973 390 904 Lo Pardal House-Museum in Agramunt Pl. Pare Gras, 4-5 Tel. (+34) 973 391 089 Agramunt Municipal Ethnological Museum Pl. Mercat, 1 Tel. (+34) 973 391 089 www.agramunt.cat Àger Town Hall Pl. Major, 1 Tel. (+34) 973 455 004 www.ager.cat Montsec Astronomical Park in Àger (Consorci del Montsec) Pl. Major, 1 Tel. (+34) 973 455 230 www.montsec.cat www.parcastronomic.cat Agramunt, Cervera and Balaguer Tourist Information Offices (see page 84 and 85) 31 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:32 Página 32 Castles and fortified villages From the 11th century onwards, Terres de Lleida was a frontierland between Christian and Muslim territory and this shaped both its history and its landscape. Many towns and villages were built below a fortress or castle for safety. Two main types of castles are to be found: isolated, walled castles, generally built in the early Middle Ages on a hilltop above the town or village, and castlepalaces which had a residential function as well as a defensive one. Many were altered and enlarged at the end of the Middle Ages, in the late Gothic or Renaissance period. On the hill above the town of Camarasa (Noguera) – on the left bank of the Segre, below where the Noguera Pallaresa forms the Camarasa reservoir – stand the towering ruins of a medieval castle and church. The castle, originally a powerful Muslim fortress, became part of the fiefdom of the legendary Arnau Mir de Tost and the capital of the Camarasa March, an extensive feudal domain which was later turned into a marquisate. Some of the castle walls and towers still stand, along with the chevet and other parts of the 13th C church of Sant Miquel, which was in RomanesqueGothic transition style. Within the same borough is 32 La Baronia de Sant Oïsme, a hamlet in a strategic spot overlooking the reservoir, at the end of the Terradets gorge. Its salient features are the magnificent round tower of the castle and the Romanesque church of Sant Bartomeu, which has a nave, three small cross-shaped apses, and a small bell tower. Further south, to the NW of Balaguer, lies Castelló de Farfanya, which grew up round a major fortress of Arab origin. Some massive towers and fortifications from the castle precinct still rise above it, alongside the Gothic church with its large bell tower. There is a late Romanesque church containing a splendid 14th C stone reredos by the Lleida School in the old village centre, and some interesting Renaissance and Baroque buildings. Cubells (Noguera) nestles at the foot of a hill in the area irrigated by the Urgell Canal. The ruined castle stands on the hilltop, near the church of Santa Maria del Castell, which has a handsome 13th C late-Romanesque doorway by the Lleida School featuring ornamented archivolts resting on six pairs of columns. The 13-14th C Gothic parish church of Sant Pere contains a 13th C alabaster Madonna 28/7/11 16:32 Página 33 La Baronia de Sant Oïsme Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 33 34 28/7/11 16:32 Página 34 Castelló de Farfanya. Altar, Church of Santa Maria Montsonís Castle ➛ ➛ Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:32 Página 35 Castle of Les Sitges 35 28/7/11 16:32 Página 36 (Mare de Déu de la Llet) which came from the castle and an interesting 15th C pulpit. Some remarkable altarpieces now in the Urgell diocesan museum and the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC) in Barcelona also came from here. Another nearby fortress which lay within the domains of Arnau Mir de Tost is Montsonís Castle, in the borough of La Foradada (Noguera), at the mouth of the Salgar gorge. Like many neighbouring castles, it was turned into a large residential palace in Gothic times. It was been restored by the present owners, the Barons of Albi, and is now the headquarters of Castells de Lleida, a group of castles open to the public where concerts and other cultural activities take place. Near the castle, Salgar shrine stands in a beautiful spot in the gorges overlooking the Segre. In the same vicinity is Montclar Castle, on the crest of the Montclar range in an enclave of the borough of Agramunt (Urgell). It too has recently been restored by its owners, the marquises of Palmerola, and can be visited (Castells de Lleida group). It is a large, fortified mansion which was built in the 17th century on the site of an earlier castle (the voussoir over the main door is dated 1638). Between 1856 and 1860 a tunnel 5 km long was dug through the Montclar range by a large gang of convicts who had been sentenced to hard labour. This major engineering project was part of the construction of the first stretch of the Urgell Canal. Also worth visiting is the castle of Alòs de Balaguer (Noguera), perched on a crag on the right bank of the Segre, in the southern Meià valley. Some impressive walls, a round tower and some pointed arches still remain. Its existence is recorded as early as the 11th century and it too was part of the domains of Arnau Mir de Tost. The village spread over the hillside and has preserved its picturesque appearance. Inside the church is a handsome late 14th C stone reredos in characteristic Lleida School style. To the north lies Vilanova de Meià, the chief village in the Meià valley. Once a fortified town, it has retained part of its walls and 36 Castle of Alòs de Balaguer Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Castle of La Floresta Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:32 Página 37 a handsome church in Romanesque-Gothic transition style. A popular partridge fair (Fira de la Perdiu) is held there in autumn. The shrine of La Mare de Déu del Puig de Meià – once the castle chapel – stands on top of nearby Meià hill. Many castle-palaces are to be found in Segarra. They are large manor houses of similar design which were rebuilt on the site of earlier fortresses and watchtowers in the late Gothic and Renaissance periods (16-17th C), an age when cereal production had brought prosperity to the region. Especially worth mentioning are the castles of Les Pallargues (the chief village in the borough of Els Plans de Sió) which has a fine Gothic arcade on the façade, and Florejacs, which has a large crenellated tower. Both can be visited (Castells de Lleida group). Near Florejacs is the castle of Les Sitges, a rectangular building with a large keep in the centre and towering crenellated walls. The massive castle of L'Aranyó was rebuilt around 1569 and has numerous Renaissance features. More recently it belonged to the family of writer Manuel de Pedrolo, who was born there in 1918. Also in the vicinity is Montcortès Castle, a remarkable building of hewn stones with two large towers and Renaissance windows. The fortified village is a quite specific type of medieval fortress. One such village is Montfalcó Murallat (borough of Les Oluges). Built on a hill, it has preserved its castle and medieval walls and the gate is the only entrance. The houses stand along narrow, partly covered streets which meet at a small square. Many have been restored as second homes. Another nearby village, Vergós Guerrejat (borough of Estaràs), has a similar layout and is overlooked by an ancient castle. In Urgell too there are interesting villages huddling round a castle. Foremost among them is Verdú, south of Tàrrega. The castle – once part of the lands of Poblet monastery, which had jurisdiction over the village – was converted into a large manor house. It has defensive features from various periods and a handsome Gothic hall. 37 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:32 Página 38 Guimerà Verdú is known for its traditional pottery, black ceramics being its speciality. It also has a museum devoted to toys and automatons (Museu de Joguets i d’Autòmats). The walled village of Guimerà lies below a ruined castle, surveying the river Corb. It is an attractive maze of quaint, narrow streets and handsome medieval buildings. Ciutadilla, also in the Corb valley, nestles below the still impressive ruins of its medieval fortress, which was rebuilt in Renaissance times. The prime features of the austerely beautiful landscapes of Les Garrigues are the olive groves – which produce excellent oil – and the villages, which have preserved their old-world appearance. Some 38 have an elegant castle-palace in the centre. One such village, La Floresta, was the property of the powerful Cardona dynasty who rebuilt the castle (13-14th C). It is now a spacious stone manor with some mullioned windows. The parish church of Sant Blai and a defence tower are part of the same building. L’Espluga Calba was a commandery of the Order of Saint John of Jerusalem (Hospitallers) from the 15th century onwards and the castle façade – featuring doorways with voussoirs and Gothic windows – has been preserved almost intact. The interior was extensively altered in the Baroque period. L’Albi was a powerful medieval barony and the old quarter is dominated by the now ruined castle – one of the most noteworthy in the area – which was altered and enlarged in the 15th and16th centuries. Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:32 Página 39 Lleida Castles (Montsonís, Montclar, Florejacs, les Pallargues, Vicfred) Major, 14 Tel. (+34) 973 402 045 www.castellsdelleida.com/cat Museum of Toys and Robots in Verdú 25340 Verdú Pl. Major, 23 Tel. (+34) 973 347 049 Castles of the Sió [BY MOUNTAIN BIKE] Route: Partially signposted route that takes us to a number of castles in the Segarra County part of the Sió riverside area from Cervera. En route to Agramunt (L-303), we come first to La Cardosa and then Montcortès de Segarra, where we can visit the castle. To the NE we come to Concabella (L-310) where a path leads to Les Pallargues (castle open to the public). To the E via Mont-roig we come to Pelagalls, Sisteró (Farming Museum) and Ratera (castle open to the public). To the S (L-310 and L-303) are Muller and then L’Aranyó (castle open to the public). We return to Cervera via El Canós. www.mjoguetsautomats.com Balaguer, Cervera, Guimerà, Tàrrega and Verdú Tourist Information Offices (see page 84 and 85) Degree of difficulty: difficult. Getting there: A-2 motorway and the N-II and C-25 roads to Cervera. Further information: La Segarra County Tourist Information Office in Cervera (see page 85). Palau Robert Routes www.gencat.cat/probert 39 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:32 Página 40 Vallbona de les Monges and other monasteries The most important monastery in Terres de Lleida, Vallbona de les Monges, belongs to the Cistercian nuns. Religious life has gone on there without interruption for many centuries. It lies in southern Urgell, in a beautiful location in a valley at the foot of the Tallat range. Along with two other great monasteries – Poblet and Santes Creus – it makes up the Catalan Cistercian Route. It arose out of a community of hermits, documented in 1150, which joined the Cistercian order in 1175. Alfons I "the Chaste" and Jaume I "the Conqueror" contributed to the construction of the monastery, which played an active role in resettling the area. The daughters of leading Catalan noble families took the veil there. The overall layout follows the characteristic pattern of Cistercian monasteries. After 1573, however, when the Council of Trent prohibited communities of nuns in isolated spots, the village of Montesquiu was moved there and the three original precincts were extensively altered. The church and cloister occupy much of the third precinct of the enclosure. Beside it is a handsome square – a former graveyard – on which tombs and sarcophagi (13th C), a monumental fountain, and two magnificent 40 Romanesque doorways – the Portal dels Morts and the church doorway – can be seen. The 13-14th C church is a fine example of Romanesque-Gothic transition architecture with a Latin-cross ground plan, a single, very long nave, and three rectangular apses opening onto the crossing. The original octagonal lantern (13-14th C) has eight windows and groin vaulting. Later a second large lantern-belfry – also eight-sided – was added, with tracery on the windows and filigreed ridges. The elegant tombs of Queen Violant of Hungary (d. 1251), the wife of Jaume I, and her daughter Sança of Aragon can be admired in chancel. Other noteworthy features are the tomb of the Guimerà family, a fine 14th C Madonna by Guillem Seguer, the Gothic chapel of Corpus Christi, a Burial of Christ (15th C), and the grille enclosing the choir. The cloister is trapezoid-shaped. The S and E wings are Romanesque; the N wing is fully Gothic, with ornate tracery on the arches; and the fourth wing (15th C) is of Romanesque design. The modern chapel of La Mare de Déu del Claustre opens into the cloister and houses a beautiful 28/7/11 16:32 Página 41 Vallbona de les Monges. Cloister and dome Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 41 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 42 Vallbona de les Monges. Tomb of Queen Violant of Hungary Romanesque statue. The splendid 14th C chapter house, which is fully Gothic and very austere, contains the tombstones of several abbesses and a 15th C figure of the Virgin (Mare de Déu de la Misericòrdia) attributed to Pere Joan. There is an interesting archive and library, and a small museum containing gold- and silverware, works of embroidery, and an old pharmacy. The monastery remains an active spiritual and cultural centre to this day. 42 Bellpuig de les Avellanes – in the borough of Os de Balaguer (Noguera), in the southern Àger valley – is another monastery where monastic life still continues, though it no longer belongs to the founding order. For centuries it was a thriving abbey of Premonstratensian canons. The counts of Urgell were buried here (13-14th C) and in the 18th century it had an important school of history. The Romanesque cloister, built in the early part of its history with twin columns and very soberly Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 43 ornamented capitals, has survived, along with important buildings from Gothic times: the dormitory and chapter house and the broad chevet of the church (14th C), which has become part of the modern building. After the disentailment of church properties (1835), it had a series of owners and the tombs of the counts – one of the earliest manifestations of full-blown Catalan Gothic sculpture (early 14th C) – were sold. They are now in the Cloisters Museum in New York. The Marist brothers, who settled here in 1910, have done restora- tion work in recent years. The monastery has a spiritual centre and buildings for conventions. The town of Bellpuig (Urgell), in the part of the plain which is irrigated by the canal, was formerly an important barony belonging to the powerful Cardona family. In the late 15th and early 16th centuries its owners were the Cardona-Anglesola dynasty, one of whose members, Ramon Folc (III), was in the service of Ferdinand the Catholic and became Viceroy of Sicily and Naples and Captain Bellpuig. Tomb of Ramon Folc of Cardona 43 Vallbona de les Monges. Cloister Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 44 28/7/11 16:33 Página 44 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 45 Bellpuig de les Avellanes. Cloister 45 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 46 Vallbona de les Monges. Corbels in the Chapel of Corpus Christi General of the Holy League (1511). He also had the Franciscan convent of Sant Bartomeu built on the outskirts of Bellpuig (from 1507 onwards) as the site for his solemn burial. Many features of the original convent – nearly all Gothic in design – have survived: the cistern cloister with its ornate second gallery, the wash basin in the refectory, the sacristy cupboards, the chapter house, and the fanciful spiral staircase. Also of note are the top gallery in the cloister and its N and E wings, the so-called Mirador del Duc – which has elements in Roman style –, and the Baroque-looking main staircase. Ramon Folc's spectacular marble tomb used to be in the convent church but in 1841, after the convent was secularized, it was moved to the parish church where it can still be admired today. Carved in Naples by Giovanni Merliano da Nola in 1522-1525, it is richly orna- 46 mented with symbols and heroic episodes from his life. It is the finest work of Renaissance funerary sculpture in Catalonia. Other important monastic buildings in Terres de Lleida include Gardeny castle in Lleida, which belonged to the Templars, and the former monastery of Nostra Senyora dels Àngels, founded in 1250 by the first community of Trinitarian nuns in Spain at Avinganya in the Segre valley (borough of Seròs), on the westernmost boundary of Terres de Lleida. The still impressive remains include the great Gothic church and its bell tower, the cloister, and vestiges of the tombs of the Montcada dynasty and the Counts of Barcelona. The ruins have been reinforced to house the Centre d’Arqueologia d’Avinganya, part of the Institut d’Estudis Ilerdencs. Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 47 Monastery of Santa Maria de Vallbona Major, s/n Tel. (+34) 973 330 266 www.vallbona.com www.larutadelcister.info Monastery of Santa Maria de Bellpuig de les Avellanes Ctra. C-12, km 181 Tel. (+34) 973 438 006 www.monestirdelesavellanes.com Convent of Sant Bartomeu in Bellpuig Ctra.. Belianes, s/n Tel. (+34) 973 320 292 Tàrrega,Bellpuig, Seròs, Guimerà, Verdú and Vallbona de les Monges Tourist Information Offices (see page 85) Urgell County Castles Route [BY CAR] Route: This route around the castles of Urgell County begins at Montclar Castle, which is open to the public. Taking the C-14 road through Tàrrega and turning on to the LV-2101, we come to Verdú, a town presided over by its ancient castle (open to the public). South along the C-14, we turn off on to the L-201 to reach Maldà, whose castle is now being restored, and Ciutadilla (L-234), with its palace-castle (open to the public). Driving east along the L-241 we can also visit Guimerà, a pretty town where we can see the remains of the old castle. Degree of difficulty: easy. Getting there: to Montclar from Tàrrega along the C-14 Artesa de Segre road. Further information: Urgell County Information Office Palau Robert Routes: www.gencat.cat/probert 47 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 48 The ancient world Vestiges of the ancient world – from cave paintings to early Christian remains – are plentiful throughout Terres de Lleida. We refer here only to the most noteworthy sites and the Archaeological Room at the Institut d’Estudis Ilerdencs, where exceptionally interesting finds are on show. The most famous cave paintings are at El Cogul, a typical olive-growing village in Les Garrigues where, in 1908, the parish priest, Ramon Huguet, discovered some remarkable murals in a cavity in a block of sandy rock (Roca dels Moros) by the river Set. The event caused a great stir because the existence of similar paintings – at the Cabrafeixet rock shelter (El Perelló), for instance, or on the La Pietat range (Ulldecona) – was still unknown at the time. The stylized naturalistic art common to them all is known as “Levantine rock art”, or the art of els pintors de les serres (mountain range painters). The discovery of ceramics from various periods and Iberian and Roman graffiti points to a long period of human habitation dating back to the Neolithic. Of special note are a hunting scene – two deer, an archer with a wild boar, and other animals – and another more famous scene featuring a group of nine 48 female figures who seem to be performing a phallic dance round a single nude male figure. These scenes are classified within the rock art of the Mediterranean seaboard, declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. Other paintings in the same style have been found much more recently in the cave of Els Vilassos on a limestone escarpment at Os de Balaguer (Noguera). They show three red figures dancing: a woman on either side and a naked man in the middle holding them by the waist. Below is a blackish fox and, still further down, a highly stylized human figure and other animals. The ruins of the late Bronze Age settlement of Genó (1100-900 BC) stand on an elevation some 3 km from Aitona (Segrià), on the right bank of the Segre. The long, narrow houses with stone and mud walls are joined together and the back walls together form an outer defensive wall. A single street runs through the middle. After being inhabited for only two or three generations, the settlement burnt down and the population had to flee. It was discovered in 1955. The excavations (1976-1984) uncovered items of great interest. Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 49 Cave paintings at El Cogul 49 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 50 In Iberian times, Lleida – then called Iltirda – was already a major city. It belonged to the Ilergetes tribe who, under the orders of chiefs such as Indibilis and Mandonius, put up fierce resistance to Roman occupation in the wake of the conquest. However, Lleida's strategic location and good communications by land and river led the Romans to found a new city there under the Latinized name of Ilerda. Gebut, another key Iberian settlement, stands on a knoll on the right bank of the Segre in the borough of Soses (Segrià). Excavation of the site – a clear illustration of the Ilergetes' advanced culture and urban planning skills – began in 1940. It comprises two stone-paved streets pointing in different directions and some sixty rooms belonging to about twenty dwellings. In the centre was a large square with a water tank on one side. At the top end (NW) are a number of rooms which may have formed some kind of acropolis. Remnants of the outer walls stand on the western slope. The ruins of El Molí de l’Espígol – one of western Catalonia's most important Iberian settlements and one of the Ilergetes' largest cities – can be seen in the borough of Tornabous (Urgell). Excavation of the site began in 1970. The ground plan is elliptical and a series of circular streets, connected by straight streets, delimit the different districts. Approximately 30 m of the outer walls still stand. About thirty oblong, attached houses with stone socles, mud walls and earth floors have been excavated. Some have paving inside, stone mortars for pounding grain, and benches along the walls on which earthenware vessels were kept. There were communal ovens on some corners. The streets are 2-5 m wide and paved with flagstones. In the first half of the 2nd century BC, a new district of larger Tornabous. Molí de l’Espígol 50 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 51 rectangular houses was added at the E end. Opposite them is a building dating from the initial period which may have had a religious function. It had columns on either side of the door (the moulded stone bases still remain) and was later converted into a dwelling. Four kilometres NE of Arbeca (Les Garrigues) is another valuable archaeological site: Els Vilars d’Arbeca (750-325 BC). It was an Ilergetes fortress and was inhabited for fifteen generations. The remains – including fortifications with towers and a moat – are of great archaeological interest. The origin of this site is unknown. There are many Roman remains in the region. Some can be seen in the city of Lleida, notably beneath the Paeria and the Auditori Municipal Enric Granados (the latter belonged to a building that stood at the old city gate of La Magdalena). Also of note are the ruins of a stronghold known as Castelllliuró, in the borough of Castellnou d’Ossó (Urgell), which had an irregular semicircular base with a perimeter of some 30 m and double walls made from large bossed ashlars of sandy stone. The surviving structure is 4 m high. In the Middle Ages a round tower with a cupola was built inside it. At El Tossal dels Moros, near Corbins (Segrià), where the Segre and the Noguera Pallaresa meet, stand the remains of large Roman villa with an interesting mausoleum (now restored). The mausoleum (2nd century AD) has an oblong ground plan and four underground burial chambers (conditoria), the floor and walls of which were covered with marble plaques while the brick ceiling was stuccoed and painted. The upper chamber, devoted to the cult of the deceased, was paved with fragments of earthenware and had a vaulted ceiling. Corbins. Tossal dels Moros 51 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Museum in Lleida 52 28/7/11 16:33 Página 52 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Castellnou d’Ossó. Castell-lliuró Página 53 A remarkable white marble Roman sarcophagus (2nd C AD) can be admired in the parish church of Sant Vicenç in Àger (Noguera), a town lying at the foot of Montsec with some splendid medieval architecture. Three sides of the sarcophagus (now a baptismal font) are decorated with maritime motifs. The central medallion shows the bust of a man in a toga representing the deceased. The town of Guissona, one of the most lively, thriving towns in the county of La Segarra, has interesting vestiges of its remote origins, namely the former Roman city of Iesso, which was founded in the 2nd century BC and attained the category of municipium. These vestiges include the defence tower of the ancient ramparts that once protected the gates to the city, the remains of the gates to the cardo maximus and various building ruins, as well as the necropolis. There are numerous steles with inscriptions and other artefacts on display at the Guissona Museum, which has created an archaeological park. The remains of an exceptionally fine early Christian building – the basilica of El Bovalar – can be seen on a hillock on the left bank of the Segre in the borough of Seròs (Segrià). Though some features date from the 6-7th centuries, its origin is earlier. It has a rectangular ground plan, a three-part chevet, and three aisles separated by columns. The baptismal pool, surmounted by a magnificent baldachin with columns, capitals and horseshoe arches, has been restored and is on show in the museum in Lleida. Near the basilica are the ruins of a settlement comprising some fifteen detached houses, each with two or three rooms and arranged around two squares. Many rare and interesting tools and other items have been found there (including a Coptic-type bronze incense burner). These too can be seen in the museum in Lleida. The Museu de Lleida Diocesà i Comarcal contains the richest collection of archaeological finds from Terres de Lleida, mostly from Segrià and Noguera. The most remarkable exhibits – along with the items from El Bovalar mentioned above – come from the Bronze Age, Iberian and Roman periods. The latter include mosaics from the 53 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 54 Seròs. Basilica of El Bovalar Roman villa of El Romeral (Albesa), near the river Noguera Ribagorçana, where excavation began in the 1960s. Àger. Roman sarcophagus 54 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 55 Museum of Lleida (see page 23) Aitona Town Hall Major, 6. Tel. (+34) 973 794 010 www.aitona/cat Arbeca Town Hall Pl. Generalitat, 3. Tel. (+34) 973 160 008 www.vilars2000.com www.arbeca.cat Archaeological Museum (les Borges Blanques) Carme, 21. Tel. (+34) 973 142 850 El Cogul Town Hall Pl. Vila, 2. Tel. (+34) 973 120 367 cogul.ddl.net Corbins Town Hall Pl. Vila, s/n. Tel. (+34) 973 190 117 www.corbins.cat Archaeological Museum and Archaeological Park in the Roman City of Iesso Pl. Vell Pla, 1. Tel. (+34) 973 551 414 www.guissona.cat Os de Balaguer Town Hall Tomàs Fontova, 8. Tel. (+34) 973 438 004 osbalaguer.ddl.net Ossó de Sió Town Hall (Castellnou d’Ossó) Pl. Major, s/n. Tel. (+34) 973 390 790 ossosio.ddl.net Seròs Town Hall (El Bovalar) Pl. Escoles, 1. Tel. (+34) 973 780 009 www.seros.cat Soses Town Hall Pl. Ajuntament, 1. Tel. (+34) 973 797 806 soses.ddl.net/ Tàrrega Museum Major, 11. Tel. (+34) 973 312 960 Catalonia Archeological Museum Tel. (+34) 934 232 149 www.mac.cat Molí d'Espígol Museum of the Iberian Settlement (Tornabous) Tels. (+34) 973 312 960 Guissona. Plaça Major Lleida, Les Borges Blanques, Balaguer, Agramunt, Guissona, Seròs and Tàrrega Tourist Information Offices (see page 85) 55 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 56 Les Garrigues olive oil Les Garrigues olive oil is one of Catalonia's most prestigious food products. It has its own label of origin (D.O.) and is made from the arbequina olives grown in many parts of the comarca of Les Garrigues – where olive groves occupy half the total surface area – and certain boroughs of Segrià and Urgell as well. Early-harvest olives yield a greenish, fairly full-bodied oil with a fruity but slightly bitter taste; oil made from late-harvest olives is sweeter, yellow and more liquid. The highest quality oil – extra-virgin – has an acidity level below 0.5º. This quality is due, not merely to the climate and soil, but to the way the olives are picked – by manually "combing" the branches so as not to damage the fruit, instead of knocking it off with sticks. The oil is extracted by purely mechanical and physical means – the press system – and only low heat is applied to prevent deterioration. The result is the totally natural juice of the olive. The bottling process is guaranteed by stringent quality controls. Les Garrigues olive oil has won numerous international awards ever since it has been on the market. 56 Les Borges Blanques, the chief town of Les Garrigues and its oil-producing capital, lies between the area irrigated by the Urgell Canal and the Central Lowland plateaus. It was built round a Muslim castle and received its municipal charter from Pere I "the Catholic" in 1206. Permission for the first fair to be held there was given by Pere III "the Ceremonious" in 1336. It was once a walled town and the Plaça Major stretches along the foot of the hill to the Cent gate. Round Plaça de la Constitució there are wide porticoes – 51 arches – and handsome mansions with Renaissance features (17-18th C). One of the main attractions of Les Borges Blanques is Passeig del Terrall, a magnificent park with two ponds, large gardens and a variety of plants and trees. It also contains a 17th C beamtype oil press, a monolith dedicated to the farmer of Les Garrigues, and three monuments: one to the sardana (Catalan dance), another to the victims of Mauthausen, and a third to the former Catalan President Francesc Macià who was elected member of parliament for Les Borges in all the elections he contested and had strong ties with Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 57 Olive groves in bloom 57 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 58 Olive oil cruet Molí Ca l’Argilés in Arbeca 58 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:33 Página 59 the town. Some of the archways and columns from the old cloister of the convent of El Carme (demolished in 1974) were also moved to El Terrall. One of the town's most interesting buildings, Palau del Marquès d’Olivart, located outside the old walls, was entirely restored when it was converted into the town hall. It also houses a small archaeological museum. The chapel of Sant Salvador, on the way to Cervià de les Garrigues, is in Romanesque-Gothic transition style with a single nave. It lies amid gardens and is a place of popular devotion. An olive oil fair – Fira de l’Oli de Qualitat Verge Extra and Fira de les Garrigues – is held at Les Borges Blanques round about the feast of Saint Anthony (January), which is also marked by a parade of horses and carriages (festival of Els Tres Tombs). Over a hundred exhibitors take part. Another attraction is the olive oil theme park (Parc Temàtic de l’Oli) at Masia Salat, a manor-farmhouse surrounded by olive groves NW of the town, where antique oil presses, collections of oil pourers, and other items to do with olive oil can be seen. Other interesting places for finding out more about olive oil production are: the Museu de l’Oli i del Món Rural (Castelldans), the Molí Cal Argilès (Arbeca) and the Ecomuseu de l’Oli (La Pobla de Cérvoles). Arbequina olives 59 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 60 Harvesting the olives Les Borges Blanques. Passeig del Terrall Museu de l’Oli i Món Rural in Castelldans 60 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 61 Les Garrigues Interpretation Centre in Les Borges Blanques Av. Francesc Macià, 54 Tel. (+34) 973 142 658 www.centreinterpretaciogarrigues.com Olive Oil Theme Park in Les Borges Blanques Masia Salat. Carretera N-240, km 71 Tel. (+34) 973 140 018 www.grupsalat.com Extra Virgin Olive Oil Fair and Les Garrigues Fair in Les Borges Blanques Carme, 21 Tel. (+34) 973 142 805 www.firaoli.com Ca l’Argilés Mill in Arbeca Tel. (+34) 973 160 008 www.arbeca.cat Les Garrigues Oil Route: from Les Borges Blanques to L’Albi [BY CAR] Route: From Les Borges Blanques to La Pobla de Cérvoles. Near Les Borges Blanques, we can visit the Oil Theme Park (km 71 on the N-240). Returning to Les Borges, we take the C-233 road to Arbeca, where we find the Molí d’Argilès mill. Then the LV-2012 leads us to L’Espluga Calba, with its cooperative oil mill. The LP-7032 road takes us to L’Albi, with its great Art Nouveau cooperative. We continue to Cervià de les Garrigues and La Pobla de Cérvoles, with the Oil Eco-Museum. Degree of difficulty: easy. Getting there: AP-2 motorway Junction 7 to Les Borges Blanques. Further information: Les Borges Blanques Tourist Information Office (see page 85), Les Garrigues County Council (see page 84). Palau Robert Routes www.gencat.cat/probert Rural Life and Olive Oil Museum in Castelldans Empit, 9 Tel. (+34) 973 120 002 www.castelldans.cat Olive Oil Ecomuseum in La Pobla de Cérvoles Pl. Sant Miquel, 9 Tel. (+34) 973 175 152 www.poblacervoles.cat Les Garrigues Denomination of Origin Regulatory Council in Lleida Complex Caparrell, 97 Tel. (+34) 973 280 470 www.olidelesgarrigues.com Les Borges Blanques County Tourist Information Office and in Arbeca (see page 85) 61 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 62 Genuine country fare The cuisine of Terres de Lleida consists of hearty country dishes in which Mediterranean staples – wheat, olive oil and wine – are skilfully enhanced by dried fruit and nuts, fresh fruit and vegetables, lamb, pork, salt fish, and the produce of the countryside such as snails and wild mushrooms. There are two traditional dishes par excellence. One is coca de recapte – a thin layer of dough, baked in the oven with a garnish of onion, sweet pepper, tomato, and salt herring, or sausage and oil, or alternatively samfaina (akin to ratatouille). The other is cassola de tros or cassola de pagès, a stew containing pork conserve, sausage, snails, rabbit and whatever vegetables are in season. Both dishes – like baked herrings with muscatel grapes, the typical grape-harvester's snack – were designed to be eaten in the country, in contact with nature. But snails are the region's most famous speciality. They are prepared in many different guises: cargols en suc, a la brutesca, a la llauna, bullits amb allioli, amb conill, and so on. Vegetables and pulses are the main ingredients of dishes such as olla verda (stewed cabbage, 62 beans, potatoes, etc.), escalivada (broiled sweet peppers and aubergines, dressed with plenty of olive oil and salt), amanida de favetes and escudella de faves tendres (tender broad beans served as a salad or casserole), carxofes a la brasa (charbroiled artichokes), truita de samfaina (omelette with ratatouille), espinacs a la cassola (stewed spinach) and, first and foremost, the magnificent salads which usually include pickled vegetables. Thanks to its long tradition of cattle raising (mainly pigs and sheep), the region produces excellent sausages (botifarres, llonganisses, etc.), pork conserve and very tender lamb, ideal for charbroiling. Other characteristic dishes feature meat stuffed with fresh and dried fruit. There are also delicious game dishes – hare or rabbit with herbs and partridge cooked in various ways (perdiu en crosta de fang, a la caçadora, or en vinagreta) – and wild mushrooms with all the aroma of the woods. Typical desserts include the traditional orelletes (subtly flavoured pastry made from flour, egg, sugar and aniseed and fried in olive oil), which are Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 63 Salad 63 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Coca de recapte 64 28/7/11 16:34 Página 64 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 65 Fresh local produce 65 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 66 an essential feature of popular festivals. Another favourite is pa de pessic (sponge cake) and the comarca of Segarra has local specialities such as plomes d’àngel, nevats, savines and morenetes. Costers del Segre, an appellation with a growing reputation In recent years the wines of Terres de Lleida have won great popularity at home and abroad thanks 66 to the introduction of new enological techniques and short-cycle varieties of grape suited to the climate. The appellation (or D.O. – Denominació d'Origen) Costers del Segre is a reliable guarantee of quality. Costers de Segre wines come from four areas: Raimat, Artesa, Vall del Riu Corb and Les Garrigues. Snails 28/7/11 16:34 Página 67 Cellers Raimat, wine cellar ➛ ➛ Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 67 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 68 Raimat, west of Lleida near the Huesca border, is an area of rolling hills and stony, limestone soil. The climate is continental but not overly harsh. Besides the traditional varieties of grape – ull de llebre, macabeu and parellada –, new varieties – cabernet-sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir and chardonnay – have been introduced in recent years. Raimat wines include fine, delicate whites, complex but well-balanced reds, and above all sparkling wines and cavas with great personality and an infinity of nuances. Artesa lies north-west of the regional capital Lleida. The river Segre flows through the area from east to west and the chief town is Artesa de Segre. The proximity of the Pyrenees creates a climate of extremes requiring short-cycle varieties of grape: monastrell, trepat and cabernet-sauvignon for well-structured red wines, and macabeu for aromatic, elegant whites. Deliciously fresh, fruity rosés are also made here. Vall del Riu Corb comprises 15 boroughs in the valley of the Corb, a tributary of the Segre. The area lies along the provincial border between Lleida and Tarragona and is part of the Ebro valley, both geologically and in terms of climate. The arid ground, the long hours of sunshine, and the short rain cycle suit varieties such as macabeu, parellada and xarel·lo, for white wines, and ull de llebre and garnatxa for reds. Both whites and reds are robust, potent wines. Les Garrigues, which is also part of the Ebro valley, is a dry, sun-drenched area. Here grapes such as ull de llebre and cabernet-sauvignon are grown to produce warm, flavourful red wines, while fresh, fruity whites are made from chardonnay. 68 “Granados” Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 69 Costers del Segre Denomination of Origin Regulatory Council in Lleida Complex Caparrella, 97 Tel. (+34) 973 264 583 www.costersdelsegre.cat Raimat Wine Cellars Afores, s/n Tel. (+34) 973 724 000 www.raimat.cat Castell del Remei Wine Cellars Finca Castell del Remei Tel. (+34) 973 580 200 www.castelldelremei.com www.gatroteca.cat The Urgell Canal network of irrigation channels [BY MOUNTAIN BIKE] Route: From Torregrossa to Sidamon, through fields of cereals and fruit trees watered by the complex Urgell Canal irrigation network. From Torregrossa, we take a path that follows the Auxiliar Canal, skirting the cemetery. Crossing the canal, we come to Molí del Bori, passing under the motorway. Crossing the Tercera irrigation channel, we enter Bellvís, existing towards the east. Skirting the Tercera irrigation channel again, we join the Auxiliar Canal once more near to El Palau d’Anglesola. Reaching the A-2 motorway (km 24.4) we cross a bridge and head towards Sidamon, where the canal goes underground. We then follow a path beside the canal to return to Torregrossa once more. Degree of difficulty: easy. Further information: Pla d’Urgell County Information Office in Mollerussa (see page 85). Palau Robert Routes: www.gencat.cat/probert 69 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 70 The Tàrrega Street Drama Festival and other festivals and traditions Of the many festivities held in Terres de Lleida, the Tàrrega Street Drama Festival (Fira de Teatre al Carrer de Tàrrega) is one of the most important. It ranks among southern Europe's foremost international theatrical markets and takes place in the second weekend in September, at the same time as the festival of Sant Eloi. Tàrrega, the capital of the comarca of Urgell, is one the liveliest towns in Terres de Lleida. It lies in the Ondara valley and evolved in the Middle Ages around Tàrrega castle, which belonged to the earldom of Barcelona. Ever since it has been a leading centre for land-and-cattle produce and trade, and the site of an important market. Prime features of its architectural heritage include vestiges of the castle and walls, the Baroque church of Santa Maria, Palau dels Marquesos de la Floresta – a handsome, well preserved mansion with elements of Romanesque origin –, the old Gothic hospital, and the porticoed square of Sant Antoni. The shrine and park of Sant Eloi stand on high ground above the town, affording views over the plain and mountains. Cultural and sports facilities are numerous: archive and libraries, conservatoire, arts and crafts school, etc. 70 The Fira del Teatre al Carrer is promoted by the town council and organized by the drama group Comediants. Since its creation in 1981, it has become increasingly dynamic and successful and draws over 800 professionals and 100,000 spectators a year, turning Tàrrega into a magnificent showcase for the contemporary performing arts against the background of a thriving popular festival. It affords opportunities to stage, buy and sell shows and provides a forum for professional contacts, exchange and diffusion. A wide array of disciplines and types of performance are covered, though stress is usually on contemporary and visual forms with a view to encouraging innovation. The prime goal is to help boost the performing arts industry. Professionals from the Iberian peninsula are well represented and the fair's international reputation is growing steadily, thanks to contacts with organizations such as IFEA (International Festivals and Events Association – Europe) and the Quebec government. Interesting initiatives include invitations to selected artists to stage performances specially designed for the fair and coproductions, notably of street shows. Participating companies Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 71 The Tàrrega Street Drama Festival 71 72 28/7/11 The Tàrrega Street Drama Festival 16:34 Página 72 Festival of Sant Anastasi in Lleida ➛ ➛ Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 73 mount stands in the trade fair complex of La Llotja for contacts and meetings with theatrical programmers. Camp grounds are set up to accommodate over 8,000 people in tents and caravans. Celebrations to mark the fair's 25th anniversary lent special prominence to the 2005 edition. For many centuries a passion play has been staged in the town of Cervera. There are records of performances in the church of Santa Maria back in the 15th century and the passion play tradition is common to several other Catalan towns. The text which had been in use since the 18th century – attributed to the Trinitarian Antoni de Sant Jeroni – was replaced in 1940 by a new text by Emili Rabell and Josep M. Sarrate – “Crist Misteri de Passió” – which is more faithful to the gospels. A special theatre seating 2,000 has been built for the play, which is performed to great acclaim in both Catalan and Spanish in the Holy Week period. Since 1978 Cervera has also been the scene of a very different form of entertainment. Aquelarre, which takes place at the end of August, evokes the world of witchcraft and pays tribute to the magical atmosphere of popular festivals. The events include parades (cercaviles), spectacles featuring devils and fireworks (correfocs and devils' dances), and the Fira del Gran Boc. In Mollerussa, the chief town of Pla d'Urgell, a popular paper dress contest (Concurs Nacional de Vestits de Paper) has been held each year since 1964 round about the feast of Saint Lucy, the patron saint of dressmakers (13 December). It is organized by the Societat Cultural i Recreativa l’Amistat and draws spectators from far and wide. The star event is a fashion show of the competing dresses. The event attracts large crowds and considerable attention. During the second weekend in July, Balaguer (Noguera) is the scene of one of the most popular festivals in Terres de Lleida: the Transsegre, a race of home-made boats down the Segre from Camarasa to Balaguer which starts on Saturday afternoon and finishes on Sunday morning. There Fireworks at the Parc del Segre in Lleida 73 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 74 Mollerussa Museum of Paper Clothes is all-night dancing and merrymaking in the Parc del Transsegre. Many festivals are dedicated to the ritual tasks that mark the yearly cycle of work on the farm. Two festivals held at La Fuliola (Urgell) are especially attractive. At the Festa del Segar, in the last week in June, the traditional method of harvesting wheat is demonstrated. Then two weeks later comes the Festa del Batre, when participants show how the grain was separated from the chaff. The grape harvest, another key event in the Lleida countryside, is celebrated in early October. The Festa de la Verema is held in Raimat (Segrià), one of the places where the wines of the famous Costers del Segre appellation are made. Attractions include a large feast, plays (one of which relates a legend about a snake), and a 74 grape-pressing contest. At the Festa del Vi i la Verema in Verdú (Urgell), demonstrations are given of the old-fashioned methods of picking and transporting the grapes and preparing the must (including grape treading). Local feasts are another established tradition. The popular El Ranxo, held at Ponts (Noguera) at carnival time (February), is one good example. The programme includes cercaviles (parades) on Ash Wednesday and the preceding Thursday, the ritual Burial of the Sardine, and a large feast for locals and visitors. Another example is Catalonia's most popular snail feast, the Aplec del Caragol, which is part of the May festivals in Lleida. Members of clubs of "snail-gourmets" gather to taste tons of snails – the star culinary product of the local countryside. This festival has been declared "of national interest to tourism" and "of traditional inte- Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 75 rest". And at Whitsun the Aplec de les Cassoles del Tros is held in Juneda. Here the prime attraction is a contest between different teams for the tastiest cassola de tros (stew). So many festivals take place in Terres de Lleida that it is impossible to mention them all. Many mark religious festivities at different seasons: Saint Lucy, Nativity plays and parades of the Three Kings; the Tres Tombs parade for the feast of Saint Anthony the Abbot; the Carnival; the feast of Saint John (midsummer); and the lively festa major which is held in each locality in summer. There are also fairs and markets: the Festa de la Poma in Barbens (apples), the Fira del Torró in Agramunt (hazelnut sweets), the Fira de la Perdiu in Vilanova de Meià (partridges), the Fira de Santa Caterina in Arbeca (featuring a demonstration by hunting dogs), the Mercat Medieval in Guimerà (medieval market) where ancient crafts are revived, or the Mercat Romà in Guissona (Roman market) which evokes that town's Roman past (when its name was Iesso). The city of Lleida is the venue for major agricultural fairs: Fira de Sant Miquel, Eurofruit, Agrícola dels Pirineus, etc. Festa de la Verema (grape-crushing) in Verdú 75 76 Cervera. Aquelarre 28/7/11 16:34 Página 76 The Tàrrega Street Drama Festival ➛ ➛ Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 77 Fira Tàrrega Pl. St. Antoni, 1. Tel. (+34) 973 310 854 www.firatarrega.cat Cervera Town Hall Pl. Major, 1. Tel. (+34) 973 53 00 25 www.cerverapaeria.cat www.aquelarre.cat Organising Committee of the Passion Play in Cervera Pg. Balmes, 2. Tel. (+34) 973 532 661 www.lapassiodecervera.com Mollerussa Museum of Paper Clothes Ferrer i Busquets, 90-92. Tel. (+34) 973 606 210 www.museuvestitspaper.cat Transsegre in Balaguer Pont 1. Tel. (+34) 973 45 01 93 www.transsegre.org Festes del Segar i el Batre de la Fuliola Tel. (+34) 973 570 180 Around El Segrià County by bicycle [BY MOUNTAIN BIKE] Route: Partially signposted route around the northwest area of El Segrià County with superb farming and wine-growing lands ranging from Raimat, the great Costers del Segre DOC wine region, to the Aragó i Catalunya Canal. Take a path westwards, we come to Sucs, turning to go north towards Almacelles (archaeological and medieval remains on Tossal de lo Vilot hill). The Sucs path takes us on westward to the Serra del Bou mountains, with canals and irrigation channels, before we return along the Pla de la Calàndria plains to Sucs and Suquets and, finally, to Raimat. Raimat Grape Harvest Festival Tel. (+34) 973 724 000 www.raimat.cat Verdú Grape Harvest Festival Tel. (+34) 973 348 112 www.verdu.cat Ponts Town Hall Pl. Planell, 5. Tel. (+34) 973 460 003 www.ponts.cat Juneda Town Hall Major, 13. Tel. (+34) 973 150 014 www.juneda.cat Agramunt Nougat Fair Tel. (+34) 973 390 057 www.firadeltorro.com Degree of difficulty: easy. Aplec del Caragol of Lleida Obradors, 2. Tel. (+34) 973 281 473 www.aplec.org Getting there: Raimat on the N-240 road between Lleida and Almacelles. www. festes.org www.firesifestes.com www.festacatalunya.cat Further information: Lleida Tourist Information Office (see page 85) and Segrià County Council (see page 84). Palau Robert Routes: www.gencat.cat/probert Tourist Information Offices of Tàrrega, Cervera, Mollerussa, Balaguer, Lleida, Agramunt, etc. (see page 85) 77 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 78 Sports and nature Terres de Lleida offers a wide range of attractive facilities for practising nature sports in the mountainous Montsec area, on the Central Lowland plains, and along the banks of the irrigation canals. One of the most famous and highly-rated areas for free flying is the Àger valley, between the Montsec and Port d’Àger ranges and the rivers Noguera Ribagorçana and Noguera Pallaresa, which has an east-west orientation and offers excellent conditions for dynamic flights. Many places are signposted for take off – Raudoral, Gabrieló, Coll d’Ares, Sant Alís – and for landing – Camp del Vertet, Camp de Tarrits – and alternatives are easy to find. The tradition of free flying, which dates back over 20 years, has been reinforced by rising numbers of enthusiasts and national and international competitions which have drawn fliers from all over the world (the World Hanggliding Championship was held there in 1995). Paragliding is the most popular of these sports. The flier leaps off a mountain slope, suspended from a flexible, microlight glider, very similar to a parachute, which is equipped with a hand brake. 78 The air currents cause it to rise, descend, and revolve until it comes in to land. For hang-gliding, a lightweight, semi-rigid structure is used which is foot-launched and foot-landed and steered by shifting the pilot's weight. Hang-gliders can travel considerable distances on thermal currents. Ballooning, microlighting, gliding, sailing and paramotoring are some of the other sports that are practised here. Several specialized firms and schools offer courses, maiden flights, flights with a guide, equipment, etc. The rugged Montsec range and its foothills are ideal for mountaineering because they offer, nor only beautiful scenery, but ascents for both novices and experts. Favourite spots include the Terradets gorges, the areas round the Camarasa reservoir (Agulla del Bisbe on the Santa Linya cliffs, and Agulla del Pont Penjat) and the reservoir of Sant Llorenç de Montgai (Paret de l’Ós), and the Mont-roig range. Opportunities for mountain hiking and rambling are equally vast. Walkers can cross Montsec de Rúbies, ascend the Pic de Mirapallars i Urgell, climb the Montsec d’Ares to the Pic de Sant Alís up the Embut or Xurulla channels, or explore the Mont-rebei gorges via Corçà Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 79 The Camarasa reservoir at the foot of Montsec 79 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 80 Hang-gliding in the Àger Valley 80 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 81 and the chapel of La Pertusa. For caving there are some excellent places near the hamlets of Lluçars and Tòrrec (borough of Vilanova de Meià). The main long-distance footpaths are the GR-1 – from the Costa Brava to the Pyrenees – and the GR-3, which crosses the Catalan hinterland. themes: the orchards of Segrià, the olive groves of Les Garrigues, historic buildings in Urgell, watchtowers in Segarra, etc. Golf is also gaining popularity and there is a golf course at Raimat and pitch & putt courses at Bellpuig and Torreserona. The reservoirs in the north of Terres de Lleida – notably those of Camarasa, Canelles, Santa Anna and Sant Llorenç – are ideal for nautical sports such as kayaking, canoeing, water skiing, and sailing. Nature sports that can be practised on the plain include cycle tourism – along the banks of the various canals (Urgell, Pinyana, Seròs, etc.) –, cross-country cycling over rougher terrain, and horse trekking. Rambling and mountain biking clubs organize routes devoted to particular Lake Ivars i Vila-sana has now been recovered and converted into an important natural heritage site, equipped with services and facilities. The lake is home to considerable biological diversity, and is rich in fauna, particularly birds. Rural tourism establishments are becoming more and more widespread in Noguera and Segarra and this form of accommodation is well suited to sports and nature tourism. Cycling 81 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd Mont-rebei Gorge Fishing 82 28/7/11 16:34 Página 82 Horse-riding Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 28/7/11 16:34 Página 83 Raimat Golf Club Afores, s/n Tel. (+34) 973 737 539 www.raimatgolf.com Golf Urgell Pitch & Putt Bellpuig Ctra. Bellpuig a Ivars, km.1,8 Tel. (+34) 973 320 742 www.aegolfurgell.com Montsec-La Noguera Mountain Biking Centre Tel. (+34) 973 455 200 www.turismedecatalunya.com/btt Motocross Track of Catalonia Montperler (Bellpuig) Tel. (+34) 973 337 073 www.motocroscat.net Urgell Canals Cultural Centre in Mollerussa Av. Jaume I, 1 Tel. (+34) 973 603 997 www.canalsurgell.cat From the Chapel of La Mare de Déu de la Pertusa to the Mont-rebei Gorge [ON FOOT] Route: Signposted route (GR-1) from the Chapel of La Mare de Déu de la Pertusa in the Serra del Montsec mountains to the spectacular Mont-rebei Gorge. A path leads up from Corçà to the chapel site. A path north takes us to the Font de la Pardina and on to the Mas de Carlets refuge. Finally, taking the path excavated into the rock, we cross the Mont-rebei Gorge by the hanging iron bridge. We then retrace our steps back to our point of departure. Parc Astronomic Montsec a Àger Tel. (+34) 973 455 246 www.parcastronomic.cat www.lleidatur.cat www.turismedelleida.cat www.valldager.com Tourist Information office in Ivars d’Urgell (see page 85) Degree of difficulty: difficult, a 570 m ascent. Wear suitable footwear. Getting there: Turn off to Agulló and Corçà 2 km before Àger (C-12). Further information: Balaguer Tourist Information Office, La Noguera County Council (see page 84-85). Palau Robert Routes: www.gencat.cat/probert 83 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 2/8/11 10:38 Useful Addresses Página 84 Segarra County Council Combat, 29 25200 Cervera Tel. (+34) 973 531 300 [email protected] www.ccsegarra.com Segrià County Council Canyeret, s/n 25007 Lleida Tel. (+34) 973 230 686 www.segria.net Catalan Ministry of Enterprise and Labour Territorial Services Av. Segre, 7 - 25007 Lleida Tel. (+34) 973 728 000 www.gencat.cat/empresaiocupacio www.catalunya.com Urgell County Council Agoders, 16 25300 Tàrrega Tel. (+34) 973 500 707 www.urgell.org Government of Catalonia Tourist Information Offices County Councils Les Garrigues County Council Av. Francesc Macià, 54 25400 Les Borges Blanques Tel. (+34) 973 142 658 [email protected] www.garrigues.ddl.net www.turismegarrigues.com Noguera County Council Pg. Angel Guimerà, s/n 25600 Balaguer Tel. (+34) 973 448 933 [email protected] www.nogueraturisme.org Barcelona 08008 Pg. de Gràcia, 107 (Palau Robert) Tel. 932 388 091 www.gencat.cat/probert Lleida 25007 Turó Seu Vella, Edifici Canonja Tel. 973 248 846 www.catalunya.com Lleida 25007 Edil Saturnino, 1 Tel. 973 248 840 www.catalunya.com Alguaire 25125 Aeroport Lleida - Alguaire Tel. 973 032 700 Pla d'Urgell County Council Prat de la Riba, 1 25230 Mollerussa Tel. (+34) 973 711 313 [email protected] www.plaurgell.org 84 www.aeroportlleida.cat Balaguer 25600 Estació de tren Tel.638 683 177 www.trensdelsllacs.cat Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 2/8/11 10:38 Other Tourist Information Offices Agramunt 25310 Pl. del Pou, s/n Tel. 973 391 089 www.agramunt.cat Arbeca 25140 Lleida, 36 Tel. 973 142 658 www.arbeca.cat Balaguer 25600 Pl. Mercadal, 1 Tel. 973 445 194 www.balaguer.cat/turisme Baronia de Rialp, la 25747 Monestir, 1 Tel. 973 460 234 www.baroniarialb.cat Bellpuig 25250 Homenatge a la Vellesa, 6 Tel. 973 320 408 www.bellpuig.cat Borges Blanques, les 25400 Av. Francesc Macià, 54 Tel. 973 142 658 www.turismegarrigues.com Cervera 25200 Major, 115 Tel. 973 531 303 www.lasegarra.org Guimerà 25341 Major, 1 Tel. 973 303 525 www.guimera.cat Guissona 25210 Pl. Vell Pla, 7, bxs. Tel. 973 551 414 www.guissona.cat Ivars d’Urgell 25260 Afores, s/n Tel. 671 577 055 Página 85 www.plaurgell.cat/estany Lleida 25007 Major, 31 bis Tel. 902 250 050 www.turismedelleida.cat Mollerussa 25230 Prat de la Riba, 1 Tel. 973 711 313 www.plaurgell.cat Mollerussa 25230 Jaume I, 1 Tel. 973 603 997 www.canalsurgell.org Sant Ramon 25215 Av. Santuari, 21 Tel. 973 524 018 santramon.ddl.net Seròs 25183 Pl. Escoles,1 Tel. 973 780 009 www.birding.cat Tàrrega 25300 Agoders, 16 Tel. 973 500 707 www.urgell.cat Torres de Segre 25170 Av. Pearson, 2 Tel. 973 792 789 www.utxesa.com Vallbona de les Monges 25268 Pg. Montesquiu, s/n Tel. 973 330 567 vallbona.ddl.net/ www.larutadelcister.info Verdú 25340 Pl. Major, 1 Tel. 973 347 007 www.verdu.cat Vilanova de l’Aguda 25749 Major, 30 Tel. 973 460 927 85 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 2/8/11 10:38 Página 86 Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 2/8/11 10:38 Página 87 Map of Terres de Lleida Terres de Lleida gb.qxd 2/8/11 10:38 Página 88 © Generalitat de Catalunya Ministry of Enterprise and Labour Catalan Tourist Board Published by: Catalan Tourism Board Photographs: O. Alamany, J. Balanyà, F. Bedmar, J. Borrell, F. Guillamet, R. López-Monné, R. Manent, F. Ontañon, J. Pareto, R. Peña, T. Vidal, County councils of Les Garrigues, Segarra and Urgell, Turisme de Lleida, Ignasi Iglesias (I.R.T.A.) and Mario Krmpotic. Printed by: Gràfiques Cusco, S.A. Translation: Jacqueline Hall/Discobole D.L.: B-29839-2011 Printed in EU Portada angles lleida.qxp 28/7/11 17:38 Página 2 Portada angles lleida.qxp 28/7/11 17:38 Página 1 Agència Catalana de Turisme Terres de Lleida Catalonia Terres de Lleida Generalitat de Catalunya Government of Catalonia Ministry of Enterprise and Labour