parque de escalada chacco huayllascca
Transcripción
parque de escalada chacco huayllascca
Ch´acco Huayllascca Climbing Park PITUMARCA – CUSCO About the park How to get there Park Rules Habitability Climbing Guide Jorge Sirvas Leo Gonzales WARNING PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE USING THIS GUIDE. IN “CH’ACCO HUAYLLASCA CLIMBING PARK” EACH ONE GOES UNDER IT’S OWN RESPONSIBILITY. MEDICAL CARE COULD TAKE SOME TIME TO GET TO THE CLIMBING SCENE IN CASE OF ACCIDENTS. CLIMBERS MUST ASSUME FULLY RESPONSIBILITY FOR PERSONAL AND PARTNER’S SAFETY. AUTHORS CAN’T GUARANTEE THE ACCURATE INFORMATION IN THIS GUIDE; DIFFICULTY GRADES ARE SUBJECTIVE AND DEPEND ON CLIMBER PERSONAL FEATURES LIKE HEIGHT, TECHNIQUE, EXPERIENCE AND CONFIDENCE. ROUTES COULD CHANGE THROUGH PHYSICAL CONDITIONS OF THE ROCK. BOLTS AND ANCHORS COULD VARY DUE EXTREMELY CLIMATIC CONDITIONS, ROCK FALLING OR VANDALISM. OWN JUDGMENT IS FUNDAMENTAL WHEN: WALKING AROUND, CHOOSING A ROUTE, CLIMBING SAFELY AND LEAVE NO TRACE. CLIMBERS MUST NOT DEPEND ON THIS GUIDE LOOKING PERSONAL SAFETY. YOUR SAFE ACTIONS DEPEND ON YOUR OWN EXPERIENCE, GEAR AND THE ABILITY TO MANAGE OUTDOORS. IF YOU DOUBT ABOUT YOUR CAPABILITIES FOR ANY OF THESE ACTIVITIES, LOOK FOR A GUIDE OR EXPERIENCED CLIMBER THAT CAN HELP YOU. ABOUT THE PARK 7a escuela de escalada and the local climbers community in Cusco seeking to develop new places for the sport they love, create altogether with the rural community of Pampachiri an it’s annex Ch’acco Huayllasca the “Ch’acco Huayllasca Climbing Park”. It depends on us to responsibly maintain over time this beautiful place with huge potential of quality climbing routes and pristine scenery. Pampachiri Rural Community directly administrates this project with the technical advice of 7a Escuela de escalada and the administrative support from Pitumarca’s municipality. We are aware that this project will benefit positively in the local population in terms of national and international tourism. HOW TO GET THERE Pitumarca’s district, Canchis’s Province is located 104 Km south of Cusco City. Public transportation. Take a bus to Sicuani (Av. Huayruropata-Cusco). Get off the bus in Checacupe town (1.5 Hours) and walk 5 minutes to the main square where you can find regular minibuses going to Pitumarca (20 min) every 15 minutes from 5 am to 6 pm. Getting to the climbing area. From Pitumarca’s main square you can find mototaxis going to Ch’acco huayllasca at any time. You could also walk 7 km uphill on a beautifully single track. Climbing Area Map From pitumarca’s main square go to Pampachiri and ask for the detour that goes to CH’acco Huayllasca. Follow the trail that goes up to Ch’acco huayllasca 6 km, if you are walking you will find some usefull shorecuts instead of following the main road. PARK RULES Every visitor must register, pay the entrance fee and sign the release of liability before getting in the park. Entrance fee Per day S/. 2.00 Per week S/. 5.00 Per month S/. 20.00 Two Soles Five Soles Twenty Soles For registration please contact: Fredy Choque 984574963 Eduardo Castelo 990333084 Motorized vehicles are only allowed from 6 am to 5:30 pm due to the sound and lights disturb the local fauna like llamas and alpacas. Fire is not allowed in open areas because it could spread. Camp only in designed areas to avoid soil degrading. Fishing trout in the river is only for the locals. Respect the agricultural fields, animals and tranquility of local life style. Take with you all the inorganic and organic garbage. You must use the bathrooms in the park but if you have an emergency remember going far from the climbing areas, agricultural fields and water sources, make a big hole and don’t leave toilet paper. HABITABILITY Pitumarca is a small beautiful town with all the basic services for long and comfortable staying. It counts with a nice Market, Internet cabins, drugstore, a couple restaurants, medical post and police station. Lodging options in town cost around S/.10 Soles and some of them have parking lot. Camping in Ch’acco Huayllasca’s community room cost S/. 5 Soles and it should be arranged in advance with Fredy Choque (984574963). Best option for eating is in the market but there are a couple small restaurants for you to choose. You could also arrange in advance some meals with some of the locals inside the park. Is better to buy food provisions in town instead of bringing them from the city so we support local income. ROUTES GUIDE GENERAL MAP For an orderly Development of the park, this are the first sectors for bolting. SECTOR LIBRON LIBRON - HOJA 1 - PARTE BAJA # 1 2 3 4 5 6 Nombre de la ruta Umlauff Dif. Altura Año 7c+ 29 mts 2015 7a+/b 23 mts 2015 Nico R, Diana G, Cocor Mare-tierra Matias R, Fredy A, Cocor Techo techito placon ? 30 mts 2015 ? 30 mts 2015 6b 20 mts 2015 6b/+ 20 mts 2015 Cocor Placa plaquita placon Leo Gonzales Como chupando mango Daniel San, Leo G. Chiri - paso Chano C, Fredy A. LIBRON - HOJA 2 - PARTE BAJA # 1 Nombre de la ruta Cuidado con el arbolito Diana Gomez 2 Maryvonval 3 foscarina33 4 Chilla Rumi L1-L2 5 Tercer Aniversario 6 Vuelo Libre 7 Sekay 8 Kayara 9 180° Cocor Matias Rubio Matias Rubio Leo Gonzales Matias Rubio Cocor Diana Gomez Diana Gomez, Cocor Nicolas Romero 10 Clavel 11 Tawa Toqo Cocor Rodrigo Mendoza, Beth Dif. Altura Año 5+ 20 mts 2016 6a 16 mts 2015 6a 16 mts 2015 6a+ 45 mts 2015 5+ 25 mts 2015 7c/+ 25 mts 2015 6c 29 mts 2015 6c+ 30 mts 2015 6b 25 mts 2015 6b 22 mts 2015 6c 15 mts 2015 SECTOR LIBRON - HOJA 3 - PARTE BAJA # 1 Nombre de la ruta Vizcacher L1-L2 Matias Rubio 2 Riti Cauri 3 Pachamama 4 Ch´aska Ñawi 5 Capitan Jack Esparrago 6 Y donde esta el bidedo? 7 Casisito un quinto Rodrigo Mendoza, Beth Cocor Diana Gomez Jack Sierralta Cocor Cocor Dif. Altura Año 7b+/c 35 mts 2015 ? 23 mts 2015 ? 30 mts 2015 7a+ 30 mts 2015 6b 20 mts 2015 6c 24 mts 2016 6b 20 mts 2016 SECTOR DESPLOME DE ESTALACTITAS DESPLOME DE ESTALACTITAS - DIAMANTE # 1 2 Nombre de la ruta Chiripa Cocor RE-CHA-CA Cocor Dif. Altura Año 6a 18 mts 2015 ? 20 mts 2015 DESPLOME DE ESTALACTITAS - GRAN DESPLOME # 1 Nombre de la ruta Luna Azul L1(8a)-L2(8a) Leonardo de Rivero 2 Fredy Machete (7b Hasta R1) 3 Hipnosis 4 Aldo 4:20 5 Cuidado que muerdo 6 Pepe le pew 7 Coco-Drilo 8 Me I eat dust (Migajitas) 9 Proyecto 10 Cody Roth Leonardo de Rivero Leonardo de Rivero Leonardo de Rivero Leonardo de Rivero Cody Roth Cody Roth Cocor Kangux Juanga Estellano, Emiliano Poleti Dif. Altura Año 8? 32 mts 2015 8a+ 32 mts 2015 7c/+ 25 mts 2016 ? 25 mts 2016 7b 25 mts 2016 ? 35 mts 2016 7b/+ 25 mts 2015 6b 18 mts 2015 ? 22 mts 2016 8a 15 mts 2015 Bolting Policy & New Routes Routes in the Park could be opened for sport climb, Trad Climb and bouldering. When opening a new route is very important avoiding over bolting. Routes could be opened from ground up or top rope depending on the practicability for bolting and the climber vision. Quality of Limestone rock is ideal for 3/8 X 3 or 4 inches bolts. For an orderly Development of the park there are only a few sectors to start bolting, in such a way there will be a big concentration of routes in a sector before moving to a different new area. Climbers must respect the style and protection used in a route that has been opened in trad climbing. If there is a route that you think is too hard or bolts are too far, maybe that route is not for your climbing level. Personal criteria is important before climbing a new route respecting Bolting Crew’s Vision. Route Maintenance If you find in a route something dangerous that should be re bolt like weathering or loose bolt and anchor please contact with: Jorge ¨Cocor¨ Sirvas [email protected] Diana Gomez [email protected] Leonardo Gonzales [email protected] Check list sorted by difficulty BOLTING CREW Diana Gomez Leonardo ¨Leo grande¨ Gonzales Leonardo ¨Leo pequeño¨ de Rivero Matías Rubio Cody Roth Rodrigo Mendoza Nicolás Romero Juan Gabriel Estellano Emiliano Polletti Luciano ¨Chano¨ Casanova Fredy James Achahui Jack Sierralta Daniel Gordillo Jorge ¨Cocor¨ Sirvas # Grado Nombre 1 2 5+ 5+ Cuidado con el arbolito Tercer Aniversario 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 6a 6a 6a 6a+ 6b 6b 6b 6b 6b 6b 6b/+ 6c 6c 6c 6c+ Maryvonval foscarina33 Chiripa Chilla Rumi L1-L2 Como chupando mango 180° Cocor Clavel Capitan Jack Esparrago Casisito un quinto Me I eat dust (Migajitas) Chiri - paso Seqay Tawa Toqo Y donde esta el bidedo? Kayara 18 19 20 21 7a+ 7a+/b 7b 7b/+ 22 23 24 25 7b+/c 7c/+ 7c/+ 7c+ Ch´aska Ñawi Mare-tierra Cuidado que muerdo Coco-Drilo Vizcacher L1-L2 Vuelo Libre Hipnosis Umlauff 26 27 8a 8a+ 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Kangux Fredy Machete (7b Hasta R1) Techo techito placon Placa plaquita placon Riti Cauri Pachamama RE-CHA-CA Luna Azul L1(8a)-L2(8a) Aldo 4:20 Pepe le pew Proyecto Sector QUINTOS Libron Hoja 2 Libron Hoja 2 SEXTOS Libron Hoja 2 Libron Hoja 2 Placa Diamante Libron Hoja 2 Libron Hoja 1 Libron Hoja 2 Libron Hoja 2 Libron Hoja 3 Libron Hoja 3 Desplome de estalactitas Libron Hoja 1 Libron Hoja 2 Libron Hoja 2 Libron Hoja 3 Libron Hoja 2 SEPTIMOS Libron Hoja 3 Libron Hoja 1 Desplome de estalactitas Desplome de estalactitas Metros A vista Flash Punto Rojo Libron Hoja 3 Libron Hoja 2 Desplome de estalactitas Libron Hoja 1 OCTAVOS Desplome de estalactitas Desplome de estalactitas PROYECTOS Libron Hoja 1 Libron Hoja 1 Libron Hoja 3 Libron Hoja 3 Placa Diamante Desplome de estalactitas Desplome de estalactitas Desplome de estalactitas Desplome de estalactitas 35 mts 25 mts 25 mts 29 mts 20 mts 25 mts 16 mts 16 mts 18 mts 45 mts 20 mts 25 mts 22 mts 20 mts 20 mts 18 mts 20 mts 29 mts 15 mts 24 mts 30 mts 30 mts 23 mts 25 mts 25 mts 15 mts 32 mts 30 mts 30 mts 23 mts 30 mts 20 mts 32 mts 25 mts 35 mts 22 mts If you want to help with bolting gear, climbing gear or any ability that can help developing this beautifull climbing proyect, please contact.: [email protected] UPDATED 30 DE MARZO DEL 2016 CUSCO - PERU