This Month`s Focus: Technical Spotlight
Transcripción
This Month`s Focus: Technical Spotlight
Times Horological TM ADVANCING THE ART, SCIENCE & BUSINESS OF HOROLOGY September 2012 Zenith El Primero, Caliber 4052B Clutch AMERICAN WATCHMAKERSCLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE This Month’s Focus: Technical Spotlight A Comparison of Cleaning Solutions From Cleaning a Store to Owning a Store Vacheron & Constantin during WW I Measurements and the Tools for Measuring Affiliate Chapter News HOT Sellers! WITSCHI TS-EXPERT3 Determine the rate and amplitude stability over a long period of time, viewing deviation, beat error and noise, plus amplitude. Automatically select all common beat numbers or manually select 3,600-43,200 beats (6Hz) per hour. Print the rate, beat error, and amplitude. WITSCHI TS-PROOFMASTER-S Pressurize from .2 to 10 BAR and vacuum to -.7 BAR to detect small and large leaks. If leak is small, pressure will remain inside the watch to show air bubbles under water. WITSCHI TS-HANDY2 Analyze quartz watches and measure rate in second per day or second per month, measure IC and total consumption in micro-amps, resistance, test for shorts or interrupts and batteries from 0 to 5 volts. Witschi TS-CHRONOSCOPE X1 Test mechanical watches and store data. The 10.4” touch screen color monitor features four display modes, Continuous, Trace, Vario, and Scope diagram of the beat noise, plus get automatic recording of the results using the six-position automatic microphone. Newest feature— automatic poising of the balance detecting the heavy point of the balance wheel on the screen. Jules Borel & Co. 1110 Grand Boulevard Kansas City, Missouri 64106 Phone 800-776-6858 Fax 800-776-6862 julesborel.com in this issue awci news classifieds VOLUME 36, NUMBER 9, September 2012 features Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI) 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) or 513-367-9800 Fax 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Amy S. Dunn Managing Editor & Advertising Manager Ext. 307 [email protected] James E. Lubic, CMW21 Executive Director/ Education & Technical Director Ext. 310 [email protected] Thomas J. Pack, CPA Operations Director Ext. 311 [email protected] Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21 Watchmaking Instructor/ Certification Coordinator Ext. 309 [email protected] Daniela Ott Education & Certification Administrator Ext. 303 [email protected] Horological Times Advisory Committee Jordan Ficklin, CW21 : Chairman Ron Iverson, CMC Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21 David Fahrenholz Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW Robert D. Porter, CMW Ron Landberg, CW21 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright ©2012 by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $149.00 per year ($8.50 per copy). Members subscription is $70.00 which is included with annual dues of $149.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 A Comparison of Cleaning Solutions Jordan Ficklin, CW21 pg. 4 From Cleaning a Store to Owning a Store Jennifer Bilodeau pg. 7 Vacheron & Constantin and the “War to End All Wars” Matthew Bleecker pg. 10 technical discussions From the Workshop Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 pg. 15 Measurements and the Tools for Measuring in Horology Jay Holloway and Michael Webb pg. 18 industry news Chelsea Clock Unveils Rare Collector Series pg. 25 Zenith El Primero Striking 10th Watch pg. 26 President’s Message Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 pg. 2 Executive Director’s Message James E. Lubic, CMW21 pg. 3 Affiliate Chapter News pg. 22 Buy, Sell, Trade, and Employment Opportunities pg. 34 Advertiser’s Index pg. 37 Industry Advisory Board Members pg. 37 Just In! Facebook Isn’t Just for Socializing pg. 30 The New Book by Archie Perkins: Antique Watch Restoration, Vlm. 1 Questions & Answers David Christianson, CMW21, FAWI pg. 32 Order your copy now at: www.awci.com in our Online Store Bulletin Board pg. 33 education & certification Advanced21 Information pg 28 AWCI Course and Exam Schedule pg . 29 Archie B. Perk CMW, FAWI, ins FNAWCC, FBH I V.I Cover Photo: Zenith El Primero Watch, Caliber 4052B, Clutch. See article on page 26. Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agrees to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. They will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be used without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci.com or the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page. Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not represent the views of the American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted materials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for publication. The appearance, reference, or advertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement of such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers or employees. a message from the president MANUEL YAZIJIAN, CMW21 I would like to thank all the AWCI members who voted for me for the position of Director on the AWCI Board. I would also like to thank the members of the Board of Directors who entrusted me with the position of president of AWCI. I am looking forward to working with you this year to bring about some positive changes. We are all very lucky to have such talented members on the AWCI Board. Congratulations to the new Directors, Jordan Ficklin, CW21, Mark Butterworth and Mike Blaszczyk, CW21. Thank you to the out-going Director, Joseph Schrader, CMW21 and past president Douglas Thompson, CW21 for serving the membership. We wish you the best of luck in your endeavors. If you would like to serve on a committee or have questions, comments and concerns I encourage you to contact me at [email protected]. or use the form on page 31. In the meantime, keep your skills honed, your standards very high, your attitude professional, your tools and equipment in great condition and your workshops clean and organized. You never know who may come by to pay you a visit. Being a watchmaker and clockmaker for over twenty-five years and having served in many capacities in this industry, I have a good knowledge of its workings, both the positives as well the negatives. I am confident my experience will enable me to propel the after-sales service industry to new heights, which will ultimately result in further stability and growth of the retail sector in the U.S. The two sectors are inextricably linked together; one cannot exist without the other and still hope to prosper. After having left the AWCI in late 2007 as watchmaking instructor, I had the renewed experience of working in the field again and seeing the way the real world works. The repair sector (After-Sales Service) is not always a pretty picture. The workmanship standards (Standards and Practices), which AWCI has created, is not always adhered to by the membership, as well as the non-membership. This is a great area of concern to me and needs to be corrected. Time is money. As part of my election promise to you, I would like to substantially increase consumer awareness of our existence and thereby bring more customers to your doorstep—this equates to more income in your bank account and, therefore, more personal leisure time. For this to happen, you need to keep your end of the promise and continue to adhere to the highest standards attainable when working on timepieces and when dealing with your clients. 2 Knowing how to properly repair watches and clocks saves It also helps to protect and enhance the brands you promote as well as your reputation and integrity. Expertise through formal training is available through AWCI, and demand is growing! We invite you to learn more about the hope that you will be as excited as we are about our other American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030-1696 866.367.2924 Horological Times September 2012 a message from the executive director C ongratulations to all the newly elected AWCI Officers. Our president, Doug Thompson, was one year into his presidency, but decided to resign in order to begin a new watchmaking business venture. Manuel Yazijian, CMW21, has stepped up to take his place and we both congratulate and thank him. Wes Grau, CMW21, is now our Vice President and Henry Kessler will remain Treasurer while David Douglas, CW21 remains Secretary, both for a second year. As for other Board members, Wes Grau, CMW21, is the Affiliate Chapter Chairman, Terry Kurdzionak is the IAB Chairwoman, both for a second year, and Jason Ziegenbein, CW21 is temporally REC Chairman until we are able to get a quorum of REC School members to elect his replacement. I look forward to working with all of you, as well as the rest of the Board during the upcoming year. The October issue of the Horological Times will be the issue where we report to our members on the activities of the Annual Convention and Educational Symposium and will include pictures and more detail. However, I would like to take this opportunity now to thank those who participated in the Convention and Symposium. The Rolex ELM Charitable Trust Dinner and Awards Program is the one time every year that we say ”thank you” to all who have been instrumental in donating their time and expertise on behalf of the Institute. We want to thank Rolex USA for sponsoring this event and supporting AWCI in so many ways. The ELM Charitable Trust Annual Fundraising Dinner sponsored by Panerai was a hit that everyone enjoyed again this year. The dinner took place at the Forney Museum of Transportation in Denver. The museum had everything from bicycles to train engines…basically any type of transportation that ever rolled on wheels. We appreciate the generosity of Panerai for supporting the ELM Charitable Trust this year. We also want to thank Swatch Group US for sponsoring the transportation to the event, and we thank Breitling, as well, for providing a breakfast for all attendees. by james E. Lubic, cmw21 Thanks also go out to Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, and CompliTime for kicking off the Convention as our Keynote Speaker. The presentation was fantastic! It was a real pleasure to see Stephen, my former classmate, after so many years. I also enjoyed meeting his son who came along to see Denver. The opportunity to hold and inspect the Greubel Forsey GMT Tourbillon—up-close and personal—is a memory we won’t soon forget! We also appreciate the work of the Symposium presenters, Ron Iverson, CMC, Mark Purdy, CC21, Bob Okenden, CMC, Wes Grau, CMW21, Jordan Ficklin, CW21, and Tom Schomaker, CMW21. I would also like to thank the vendors for their participation in our two-day Trade Fair. These were: Bergeon Tools, Cas-Ker Company, C.R. Time, Eckcells, Jules Borel and Co., MicroPower Battery Company, Mile Hi Clocks, Siriani the provider of the AWCI FedEx Shipping program, Sy Kessler and Sons and Twin City Supply. It was wonderful that you took the time and made the investment to support AWCI and our members. There were many memorable moments at the Denver Convention, but purchasing Archie Perkins’ newest book, Antique Watch Restoration Volume 1, and having Archie there to personally autograph my book and 89 other AWCI members’ books was quite something. Members stood in line for 45 minutes for the opportunity to meet one of the true legends in American Horology. Archie, I know all of the AWCI membership— past, present, and future—thank you for your dedication to our great profession! A very big thanks goes out to all AWCI members who attended the convention this year, and to all the spouses who put up with the time and effort these individuals put forth to better themselves professionally and support AWCI. One last note, I want to wish Ex-President Thompson the very best. I wish him much success in his next life as Businessman – Watchmaker. His is a true professional and I’ll miss working with him as a Board member and as president. Thanks Everyone! Horological Times September 2012 3 features BY JORDAN FICKLIN, CW21 A Comparison of Cleaning Solutions n the United States there are two main manufacturers of cleaning solutions. As you would expect, they both claim their solutions are superior to the competition. Also, as you are probably aware, watchmakers seem to be religiously connected to one solution or the other with no intention of switching. I As watchmakers, we know that “cleanliness is next to godliness,” but we must also consider our own health when choosing the chemicals we use in our workshops. The purpose of this article is not to convince you to choose one cleaning solution over another, but to share with you the methods I used to determine the efficacy of the cleaning solutions for my own purposes, and to share my results. You can use this information however you wish. First of all, cleaning and rinsing solutions need to: • • • • Dissolve old and dried-out lubricants, both natural and synthetic, and hold them in a solution without re-depositing lubricants elsewhere on the movement. Be gentle enough not to damage the brass, steel, or plating on movements, even after repeated washings. Dry in such a manner as to prevent the formation of rust. Be stable enough that they can be shipped safely and stored for a reasonable amount of time without any loss in efficacy. I tried to develop a set of tests to determine efficacy of the above points. For the purposes of this article, I put the following products through my personal set of tests: • • • • • I conducted a total of five tests on the cleaning solutions. For all tests involving a cleaning process, the Greiner ACS 900 was used. The first test was a cleaning solution test described by Omega in their Working Instruction No. 27(WI27). In this test, specially prepared discs available from Omega are washed in the machine and then allowed to dry. A test liquid is applied to the dry disc and observed after 40 minutes. The amount and type of spreading is evaluated against a standard set forth by Omega to determine whether or not the cleaning solution has performed its job. The downsides to this test are that it doesn’t replicate a real-world condition. I was unable to ascertain how these discs are treated or how the solution’s ability to remove this coating relates to the solution’s ability to clean a watch. The results of this test are in the table at the end of this article. Based on my evaluation using the information from the WI27, I determined that clean baths of either L&R 111 or Zenith 67 will both meet the standards set forth in WI27. The second test was performed by preparing round polished discs of stainless steel. I applied drops of synthetic lubricants used in watchmaking: 9010, HP1000, TEPA, and Rolex MR-4 to these discs. To simulate the dried out and gummy state in which they are found in watches they were heated until they begin to smoke. The result was “baked-on” lubricants. All three solutions failed to remove all of the lubricant. The third test was performed by preparing round polished discs of stainless steel. To each disc were applied drops of common lubricants used in watchmaking: Moebius 9010, D-5, 9415, 8201, and KT-22. To simulate the dried out and gummy state in which they are found in watches, they were heated to 50 degrees Celsius and held at that temperature for two weeks. Then they were warmed additionally until just before the point where they begin to smoke. The result was “tacky” lubricants. L&R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution 111 L&R Ultrasonic Watch Rinse 121 Zenith Formula 67 (Cleaning) Zenith Drizebrite (Rinse) Zenith Radiant (Cleaning) 4 Horological Times September 2012 a comparison of cleaning solutions BY JORDAN FICKLIN, CW21 These discs were washed separately in brand new solutions and then examined for remaining lubricant. The results are summarized in the table at the end of this article. L&R 111 and Zenith Forumla 67 both provided satisfactory results but Zenith Radiant left visible oils on the disc. peated washings, it is easy to imagine the damage that could possibly be caused by this solution. The fourth test was an attempt at the water-break test for cleanliness. Clean round, polished stainless steel discs were washed in a new batch of solutions. After removing the discs from the cleaner they were dipped in distilled water, removed and held vertically. The run-off pattern was observed. When small droplets form, that indicates the presence of hydrophobic contaminants on the surface. When the water spreads thin and doesn’t drain off, that indicates cleanliness. On all three discs the water ran clear off. The last test was designed to evaluate the level of reactivity between the cleaning solutions and brass. A small quantity of cleaning solution was placed in the bottom of a clean glass jar. Small pieces of brass were prepared each with the same shape and surface area and with the same mass of 0.155 grams. The pieces were placed in the solution and then checked for changes in appearance and mass over time. They were first checked after 10 minutes and then over longer periods of time. The results are summarized in the following table: Elapsed Time L&R Ultrasonic 111 Zenith Formula 67 Zenith Radiant 10 minutes Metal brightened but no change in surface texture or mass. Metal brightened but no change in surface texture or mass. Metal brightened but no change in surface texture or mass. 1 hour 0.155 grams 0.154 grams 0.155 grams 42 hours 0.154 grams 0.138 grams visible change in texture of material, 11% change in mass. Solution changed to dark green. 0.155 grams L&R 111 and Zenith Radiant performed well but Zenith Formula 67 was extremely aggressive, dissolving 11% of the brass over the 42 hour test. It is important to note that watch movements would not normally sit in the solution for that length of time, but over re- In addition to the cleaning test which paired cleaning solutions and rinsing solutions, the following test was performed to assess whether the rinsing solutions would leave any residue behind. A small drop of new solution was applied to a clean glass plate using a glass dropper. The solution was allowed to evaporate under a cover, and then the plate was visually inspected for any residue. Alcohol - No visual residue Acetone - No visual residue Solvent H - No visual residue Zentih 505 - No visual residue L&R Ultrasonic Watch Rinse 121-faint residue Zenith Drizebrite - faint residue Both rinsing solutions left evidence of where they had run. I could not determine whether they picked up contaminants from the slide and moved them to the edge of the drop where they were deposited, or whether the solutions themselves left residue, but in either case I was able to see where the solutions had been after they evaporated. After performing my tests, no one solution stood out as superior. For the most part, they all succeeded in cleaning away dried out oils and greases with L&R 111 and Zenith Formula 67 doing a slightly better job than Zenith Radiant in these particular tests. In these “real-world” tests (which are less scientific because there is no control of variables) I found all three solutions to do an adequate job of cleaning the Horological Times September 2012 5 a comparison of cleaning solutions BY JORDAN FICKLIN, CW21 watches, but the Zenith solutions took much longer to dry (in fact, they took longer to dry than the maximum length of drying cycle on my machine). If you ask around at your local guild meetings or in Internet forums you will find just as many watchmakers who swear by one solution as do by the other. You may even hear some interesting anecdotes about blind tests in service centers where watchmakers complained their watches weren’t getting clean and you’ll definitely hear about the “brown sludge.” I have never experienced the brown sludge myself, but I hear it is awful to deal with. I’ll leave these anecdotes for you to discover on your own in an attempt to keep this report as scientific in nature as possible. L&R Ultrasonic 111 Zenith Formula 67 Zenith Radiant Omega Score 5/6 5/6 4 Comments Spread all the way across the disc and outer edge was very irregular. Spread all the way across the disc and outer edge was very irregular. Spread to where there was no visible raised (bubble-like) portion. Outside edge irregular. Burnt Oil Some areas of discolored oils visible - removable with peg wood. Some areas of discolored oils visible - removable with peg wood. Some areas of discolored oils visible - removable with peg wood. Warmed Greases No visible areas of No visible areas of grease. grease. Some areas of grease still visible -- easily removed with peg wood. Drop Test Tall Spherical Drop of Distilled Water. Tall Spherical Drop of Distilled Water. Tall Spherical Drop of Distilled Water. While performing these experiments I also conducted a small survey of watchmakers. In total, 86 watchmakers responded. The majority of watchmakers were using either L&R or Zenith Solutions in a pretty even split. A few used homemade solutions and an even smaller number sourced solutions from Europe which are not readily available in the United States. A strong majority of watchmakers stated that effectiveness was the most important factor in choosing a solution, followed by environmental impact, health concerns and price. Shelf life and brand recommendation were the least important. Surprisingly, only two-thirds of those surveyed had tried to test out different solutions in their workshop. Control 3 Test of new blank disc with no washing. Zenith solutions have a less-pronounced odor. This is because they have formulated the solution so that the ammonia doesn’t evaporate as easily. Ammonia is a toxic chemical, so this is a positive thing, but it is also likely the reason their solutions do not evaporate as quickly. It is a good idea to operate your cleaning machine in a separate room from where you repair your watches. All solutions should be used in a wellventilated area. The ACS 900 I use in my shop is fully enclosed and has a filter on the exhaust fan which is connected to an outside vent. Despite the weaker odor, both solutions have many of the same toxic ingredients and require special handling for disposal. • • • • • • Generally speaking, those who choose Zenith solutions do so because of their weaker odor, the claims that they are more environmentally friendly, and/or because they had experienced problems with another solution and sought out the alternative. Those who use L&R solutions tend to do so because of their time-tested consistency and effectiveness. Whichever solution you use, here are some important tips to remember: Change your solutions frequently Clean your jars between every batch (use soap and water) Be sure the jars are completely dry before refilling them with solution* (see sidebar) If you use an automatic machine, wipe down the unit above the jars frequently (this is a source of contamination) Operate the machine in a well-ventilated area away from your workspace Dispose of your used solutions in a responsible manner Sidebar: I don’t understand the chemistry, but cleaning solutions and water don’t mix. When the solution gets contaminated with just a drop of water, a cloudy gelatinous material forms as is shown in this photo. t 6 Horological Times September 2012 features BY JENNIFER BILODEAU From Cleaning a Store to Owning a Store A Spotlight on Women in Horology When You Just Know What You Like W hen Erica Wyatt was eighteen years old, she was employed at a car repair shop and aspired to become one of the skilled mechanics. She liked the thought of being able to fix things on her own; not having to rely on somebody else to do things for her. The ability to repair mechanical items gave her independence and was emotionally fulfilling. Early on, Erica knew she was good with mechanical-related repairs. She knew some people struggle their whole life to find their niche, but it was apparent she was mechanically inclinedright from the start. The AWCI staff met Erica at the NAWCC/AWCI Mixer last winter, here at the AWCI facility in Harrison, Ohio. What struck us as interesting was that Erica owned her own clock repair shop and had a great interest in the art of timekeeping. She was excited to learn that an institute like AWCI existed to support and promote professional clock and watchmakers, and she is now an AWCI member. From Clock Shop Cleaning to Clockmaking Apprentice When we contacted Erica to ask her about her background, she started out the conversation by making it clear that she did not claim to know “everything” about clockmaking, and that she still considered herself a “student” of horology. She explained that she was mentored by (and still works along with), Edgar Hume, who has been repairing clocks since the late 1970s. Erica said there was always more to learn in the industry. Even though she had been repairing clocks for the past 10 years, she gives much of the credit Erica Wyatt with a group of clocks for repair. to Edgar, who owned The Clock Shop in Lexington, Kentucky, since the 1980s. Edgar was trained by Newton Graham Noell, a well-known master clockmaker and owner of TimeWise. This brings us back to the beginning of this story. While Erica was working in the car shop, she got a second job, organizing clock parts and cleaning The Clock Shop for Edgar. Even at age 23, Edgar noticed Erica’s interest in repair and offered her a “real” apprenticeship in his store. She knew the apprenticeship would be something that would require her to commit to the training and to get serious. Because she was serious, she pursued a machining degree at the local college to learn how to make parts, to learn about pitch, thread for screws, differences between metals and more. Erica recalls that she was the only woman in the machining classes at the college—almost all of the students were men with CNC and gunsmithing interests. It never bothered her that she was the only female in the class. She was too busy enjoying the course and preparing for her future. History Makes Us Who We Are Erica explained that, during her apprenticeship, she discovered her passion lies in the ability to help restore and share history. She loved being able to bring a family heirloom back to life. For her, it’s exciting to repair an item so that it makes the “same sounds” their relatives may have heard generations before. Horological Times September 2012 7 from cleaning a store to owning a store BY JENNIFER BILODEAU working in the same office. Each one shares equipment, staff and space, but each is their own business entity. Erica brings in her own business and performs on-site clock repair. She also has a section of an antique store called “Chime Time” which brings in repair work. In addition to repair, The Clock Shop is also a magic tricks and magician supply store. Erica explains that some early stage illusions were powered by clockworks—thus the clock and magic connection. The Challenges of Owning Her Own Shop When discussing the challenges of being a small, female-owned business, Erica does agree that there’s sometimes a stigma and some people don’t envision that a woman can be a good clockmaker. She still gets an occasional client who says, “I want a man who is a clockmaker to work on this.” Erica says she bites her tongue, because most of the time, it does no good to explain to the customer that she is the one who will, most likely, be performing the repair. On a house call with a customer. She considers it an honor to preserve and pass history on to future generations. Erica shares, “I love the history behind the clocks that are brought in. For example, envision a mantel clock that has sat in the same spot for 75 years, ringing out the hours all that time. Each clock contains clues as to when it was created. For example, Banjo and other shelf clocks display art on the tablet with information in the painted picture, offering a hint to the date of manufacture. You also consider the material in the case and movement. Was it made by machine? Are there brass works or wooden work movements, which usually date from 1780 to 1845? Finding things like hand-painted dials, cat-gut weight cords, wavy glass…all this makes me excited to come to work every day.” Working with a Mentor Over the past decade Erica moved from cleaning and organizing a clock shop, to being mentored, to owning her own clock repair business. She still works alongside Edgar at The Clock Shop in Lexington, yet she has her own business. She describes their business relationship as being similar to two doctors Erica has begun to specialize in the repair of wooden work movement clocks, an important item in early American clock design. She also repairs everything from tower clocks to desk clocks, from cuckoos and metronomes, to music boxes and wind-up toys. Erica’s attitude is positive and powerful. “It’s too bad more women don’t try this trade.” She continues, “And being a woman also occasionally puts some of my female clients at ease, knowing they are not alone during a house call with a guy they’ve never met. Often, the family clock is maintained by the woman of the household anyway. She’s usually the one who winds and takes care of it.” The Challenges of Being a Good Clockmaker Repair is challenging and Erica likes that. There are a lot of possibilities of failure modes with repair. “I try to put higher estimates on repairs that are complicated to give myself time if the repair takes longer than expected. I also only charge for something I can repair. If I can’t fix it, I don’t charge for it. A frustration Erica sees a lot, which she must explain to people, is that you cannot simply hook up a clock 8 Horological Times September 2012 from cleaning a store to owning a store BY JENNIFER BILODEAU to computer diagnostics to “immediately find out what’s wrong with it.” Uncovering the problem takes time, testing, troubleshooting and patience. It can sometimes be difficult for people to comprehend since we live in a world with “info at our fingertips.” Although she is positive about the field of clockmaking, she worries that digital technology will devalue historical items where the younger generation is concerned. She thinks our youth may be missing out on the wonder of “the mechanical things in life,” like clocks with amazing stories to tell. Erica concludes by saying she hopes to be a mentor herself in the future. However, she wants many more years of clockmaking and repair experience before she’ll feel comfortable in that role. Meanwhile, Erica is proud to work with her mentor, is satisfied with the workload between the two stores, and she intends to continue to grow her skills and become an even better clockmaker. t Performing repairs at the workbench Horological Times September 2012 9 features BY MATTHEW BLEECKER Vacheron & Constantin and the “War To End All Wars” A Brief History I n May, 1918, purchasing agents from the American Expeditionary Force (AEF) drafted an order for other specific features involving winding and legibil5,000 Vacheron and Constantin pocket watches. ity. These requirements both Hamilton and Vacheron These watches were headed to the Corps of En- and Constantin could easily meet, both being world gineers to be used primarily for the supervision of leaders in quality. railroad operations in France. Other contracts were tendered since the U.S. Of the 3,289 chronoarrival with other Swiss Background graphs, my great-grandbrands numbering over father somehow acThis was a student thesis project for Lititz Watch 10,000 watches. With the quired one of the .900 Technicum. It took the course of one year to complete American presence growall the aspects of this endeavor. It will be presented silver-cased, gold-plated, ing from 420,000 troops in four consecutive issues of Horological Times maga20-jewel chronograph to near 1.2 million by the zine. This first article is a brief history and introduction watches. Later in the arto the technical side of the service. The theory behind end of 1918, the demand ticle I will describe my repairing the “Hedgehog” stop works is also included for quality timepieces restoration of this watch here. Numerous historic letters accompanying this was constant. Contracts which began life with the research can be found on www.awci.com at: FOR held with Zenith, Ulysse Corps of Engineers DurWATCHMAKERS & CLOCKMAKERS / FOR THE WATCHMAKNardin, and subsequently ER / TECHNICAL GUIDES & REQUESTS / CLICK HERE FOR ing World War I. IWC, Moser and Movado, TECHNICAL GUIDES / VACHERON & CONSTANTIN. were for time-only watchExact historical facts on es. Only Vacheron and how my great-grandfaConstantin were engaged for chronographs. Of the ther procured the watch are not available, at this 5,000 chronographs ordered, 3,289 were delivered point, anything on the military history of this particuby the end of the conflict. lar watch would be pure conjecture. What is known American-made watches would also have been used. Actually, 1,000 Hamilton watches were taken, but because of the unreliable state of the trans-Atlantic shipping routes, the AEF decided to get what supplies it could in Europe. I find it interesting that the very best of Swiss manufacturers was hired, and even that the standard watch being used by the Corps was the famous American-made Hamilton. Timing of military actions was crucial, and it only makes sense that the best timepieces should be employed. The Corps of Engineers required their watches to meet the Railroad-grade standards established in 1893, and some is that my great-grandfather Maitland, did not serve overseas during the war, and was, in fact, not in the Corps of Engineers until much later. Family accounts did no justice in recalling the arrival of the chronograph into the Bleecker family. Yet, there are a few interesting stories that are, perhaps, more meaningful to its value as an heirloom. Apparently, there were, at one point, two such watches in Maitland’s possession and one was sold to pay for the repairs of the other. The watch was used to time races in the homespun “Olympic” games my father participated in as a boy. Most recently, before it came into my possession, it was being regularly used by my 10 Horological Times September 2012 vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars” BY MATTHEW BLEECKER grandfather because his digital watch had recently met its end. An interesting circle of events probably surround this watch, never to be known in full detail; however, having the opportunity to service the watch has given me insight into the technical details of its past. Though not an exhaustive account, what I discovered is at least more than what was previously known. The remainder of this paper is primarily a technical account of the process and work I did in order to restore, to the best of my present ability, this magnificent watch to its original state. Some things were irreversible, and others required secondary fixes, and some components needed to be remade, and one designed and made. and its parts. My goals were fixing the lower balance hole jewel and making the balance staff, the missing stop-work wheel, and the missing bridge screw. The Watch Movement: A beautiful gilt main-plate and threequarters chronograph bridge are home to magnificently-finished levers and poised gear-train wheels. It has a Swiss lever escapement, bi-metallic balance wheel, column wheel chronograph and barrel stop works. The Service When I began this service, I approached it as a watchmaker in awe. I was about to overhaul a Vacheron and Constantin pocket chronograph that belonged to my great-grandfather, and I could not make any mistakes. There are no parts available, so whatever did not need to be fixed was treated with care and put aside. I compiled a small list of things to do and parts to make as I disassembled the movement. I did not expect to find anything significantly wrong with the watch since it was actually running when I received it. But, the truth was soon revealed! There were a few minor problems, some missing screws and a small amount of surface rust among them. The major problem was with the oscillator, specifically the balance staff and the lower hole jewel. I knew right away this was going to be the first thing I fixed. I wanted to work in an order that made sense. It seemed to me the best approach was to repair the items necessary in order for the watch to run again. So post haste, I began repairing the jewel, then made plans for making a balance staff. Lastly, I would make the missing screws. I believe the service went basically as planned, although there were several major changes I had to make along the way. There was also a mishap or two that ended up setting me back a few steps. I had originally planned to focus on the historical aspects, but the information was either closely guarded or had been long forgotten. In a time of war, the small details pertaining to watch purchases seemed to have fallen by the wayside or were never documented from the beginning. My final plan consisted of documenting, to the best of my ability, the watch 16 Size, 19 Lignes Swiss Lever Escapement Split Bi-Metallic Balance Wheel Horological Times September 2012 11 vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars” BY MATTHEW BLEECKER The Case: It is a four-piece .900 silver case. The back is engraved with “Corps of Engineers U.S.A., No. 2366.” The inner dust cover is engraved with “Vacheron & Constantin” and “Geneve.” Both the back and the dust cover are hinged to the main case, but the bezel and crystal snap on. like. The concept is, of course, the same as the average stop works, but is comprised of two star-shaped wheels instead of the Maltese cross design. With the help of Mike Graham, a fellow Lititz student, and some mathematical principles, I was able to ascertain the design of the missing wheel. This was the first technical endeavor I undertook. As soon as I had the design figured out, I made a model to help me better understand how it worked plus a drawing so I could remake it. Corps of Engineers Stamp The missing wheel has to be mathematically derived from the existing wheel. I used what Mike figured out, then I came up with a process to unequivocally determine the design of the missing wheel. Wheel “A” has a certain diameter and number of teeth, two of its teeth are divided into three smaller teeth. My detailed process relies on the dimensions and circular pitch of wheel “A” and the recess into which the missing wheel “B” must fit. 12 Brand Engraving on Caseback The Service Actuated The Stop Works: As I dove into the project, I eventually made it to the stop works. Not only was a component missing, but none of my instructors had ever seen the design before. This system was atypical and I had no idea what the missing component looked Now that I have the circular pitch of wheel “A” I can determine the circular pitch of wheel “B.” Since wheel “A” has an even number of teeth—and two are clearly divided into three—wheel “B” must relate not only to the larger tooth profile but also to the smaller. 12 Horological Times September 2012 6 vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars” 24 BY MATTHEW BLEECKER 20 Knowing the dimensions and number of teeth of both components, I can now determine if such a system allows a proper number of full rotations of the ratchet wheel. Wheel “A” has a diameter of 5.1 mm, 12 teeth and 6 a circular pitch of 1.335 mm. Wheel “B” has a diameter of 4.24 mm, 20 teeth and a circular pitch of .667 mm. The importance of the circular pitch is to determine the rational relationship between the 24 two wheels. Stop Works on Barrel Lid Doubling the tooth count of “A” and, therefore, dividing the circular pitch in half is a good place to start. This will divide to the correct circular pitch. It will also define a wheel whose diameter is the same as “A” with twice as many teeth. Since the recess for wheel “B” is a maximum of 4.4 mm, a wheel of equal size will not work. In order to make the diameter smaller, but keep the circular pitch the same, the number of teeth on wheel “B” must be lessened by multiples of two. To find the proper number of teeth and to find a system that concludes in the proper number of turns, I started with the maximum number of teeth and systematically eliminated two at a time, working backwards until the diameter would fit in the recess. Diameter “A” and “B” = 5.1 mm This part is a little tricky to understand. What I need is the number of turns that wheel “B” allows wheel “A” to make. The important principle that takes effect is that wheels with different tooth counts mesh with different teeth on every 20 rotation until returning back to the zero point. Using 1 turn of wheel “B” as a reference, we determine that “A” turns only a fraction. 12 20 12 1 12X 20 When 20 I refer to the “number of turns,” imagine that there is a mark on each wheel at the line of centers. The number of turns refers to the number of times both marks return to the line of centers at the same 1 A % point. The genius of this system is in the different tooth counts on the individual wheels which allow the uncut tooth to travel freely until returning back to the zero point. The number of turns can be empirically determined once the wheels are in place, but should be mathematically calculated as a purposeful function of the system. The number of turns using 20 teeth for wheel “B” is calculated thus: 6 24 Since I know that wheel “B” must be smaller than or equal to 4.4 mm in diameter, using the same formula and less teeth will equal a smaller diameter. The tooth count of wheel “B” can be lessened to 22 teeth, which will make the diameter smaller20 but keep the circular pitch the same. This process is repeated until the answer is a diameter that will fit in the recess of 4.4 mm. The 22 teeth will equal out to 4.67 mm, which is still too big, so it must be 20 teeth. 12 20 1 12 12X 20 20 12x 12 20 12 1 For every one turn of wheel “A” wheel “B” makes 1.2 A turns. In order for the1starting points%of both wheels to make it back to each other wheel “A” must rotate 5 times. 1.2 x 5 = 6 Turns of wheel B Horological Times September 2012 13 vacheron & constantin and the “war to end all wars” BY MATTHEW BLEECKER Key Dimensions of the “Hedgehog” Stop Works 20 Jewels Theoretically, 5 turns is the maximum number of turns wheel “A” is allowed to make for every 6 turns of Wheel “B”. The practical application brings this all together. Eliminating the top and bottom of the torque curve of the mainspring is essentially the same as just eliminating the first full turn of the ratchet wheel and the last full turn. I estimate this is the setup in this watch and that a full wind is 7 full turns of the ratchet wheel. Since wheel “A” is directly connected to the barrel arbor and, subsequently, the ratchet wheel, installing wheel “B” after one full rotation of wheel “A” eliminates this initial wind from normal run down. At this point I need to mention the placement of each wheel which allows this system to work. The existing wheel “A” is located directly on the barrel arbor and is stationary under normal running. Wheel “B” is located on the barrel lid and under normal running orbits around wheel “A”. When the watch is wound, wheel “A” drives wheel “B” until reaching its locking point. Column Wheel Chronograph Mention You’re an AWCI member and WE WILL DONATE .1% of each sale to the ELM Trust! CALL OR EMAIL FOR DAILY PRICING (855) 243-2724, [email protected] Batteries - Silver Oxide Paying 2.2x silver Polishing Per LB Starting price per lb $60 & up TOP DOLLAR PAID Call for price Payout Examples 2.2x Winding Normal Running Call for free UPS shipping label In next month’s issue, I will explain the repair to the main plate and the process of making the new balance staff. t 14 LONDON SILVER FIX $28.80 WE PAY PER POUND (LB) $63.36 $33.75 $74.25 $38.85 $85.47 $43.46 $95.61 $48.34 $106.34 7131 Perri Lane Brooklyn, NY 11234 Horological Times September 2012 from the T his often overlooked small part, the center tube, used in numerous ETA and Sellita movements, can cause big problems when damaged, even if only slightly. Both quartz and mechanical movements utilize a center tube. This simple, low-cost part is friction fit to the main plate and performs several functions. Internally, it supports the seconds wheel (ref. 0227) and provides a bearing surface for its lower pivot. Externally it supports the driver cannon pinion (ref 0242) and it provides an exact center reference point for the dial with respect to the main plate. Of course, that center reference is accurate only if the center tube is perpendicular to the main plate. There is an easy check to test the uprightness of the center tube before disassembling a watch movement. With the hands still fitted to the movement, move the hands through a twelve-hour cycle, all the while carefully observing the distance between the minute hand and the dial. That hand should remain parallel to the dial through each entire 60-minute cycle. If the minute hand-to-dial distance varies through that cycle, it is evidence of a damaged cen- Part 161, the center tube. ter tube. Also, observe the hour hand throughout the twelve-hour cycle to confirm that it remains parallel to the dial. Also confirm its distance from the dial and the minute hand remains constant throughout the cycle. Remove the hands and check the concentricity of the central dial opening with that of the center tube. If the dial opening is not concentric, it may interfere with the hour wheel, consequently causing timekeeping issues. You may carefully adjust the dial’s position to make it concentric with reference to the center tube by gently moving the dial into the desired position. There is some risk of dial damage involved workshop by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 with such an adjustment. It is always a good practice to make this adjustment only after having a discussion explaining the risks involved with the owner of the watch. Remember, it is better to ask permission first instead of asking forgiveness afterwards. Removing the tube. Replace all damaged center tubes and do not make any dial adjustments to a watch with a damaged center tube. First, replace the tube then adjust the dial as needed. The center tube is a relatively inexpensive part, about $5 as shown on some material dealers’ websites. It is friction fit to the plate, and easily removed and replaced using your jewelling tool. Set up the jeweling tool with the appropriate punch and stump and push the tube out of the plate as shown in the photo. Some tubes come out to the rear, while others come out to the dial side of the The audience for this article plate. You will need is anticipated to be experito determine in which enced watchmakers who aldirection to push, and ready know which punches it will not take much and stumps in the jewelling pressure to force tool set are appropriate for the tube out of the each of the variety of center plate. Install the new tubes they will encounter. tube by again using a The punch is small enough to press on the center tube and proper size punch and the stump is just large enough stake and pushing the to accept the tube as it is tube home into the pushed from the movement. plate as shown in the The punch used for insertion associated photo. It is again sized to the tube in is important when fit- question and the stump is ting a new tube to be the correct size to accept the certain the tube is in tube as it is pushed into the plate. all the way. Horological Times September 2012 15 Expand your profit opportunities through a strong brand that resonates with shoppers and has a complete portfolio of products don’t just take our word for it… TM energizer.com *Actual rating found on Energizer.com ©2012 Energizer Energizer, Energizer Bunny design and other marks are trademarks of Energizer. from the workshop by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 ping, or not running at all. You need to make sure the train is free and the endshake on the seconds wheel is within specs. The tube, when improperly seated, can cause insufficient endshake on the seconds wheel. In this case, push the tube home before making any adjustment to the seconds wheel jewel in the train bridge. Check the condition of the center tube during every watch repair. It only takes a few moments to check it, and if needed, to replace it. Locate the problem before it causes trouble and heed the words of the late Abraham Cohen, well-known Boston watchmaker, “You can fool a customer, but you cannot fool his watch.” The watch will always tell you there is a problem. t Inserting the tube. On occasion, the center tube can be visually upright, but may have some unseen damage. A tube with an imperceptible bend or an internal flaw may bind the seconds wheel, thus causing a variety of troubles relating to amplitude, timekeeping, occasionally stop- LIKE US ON FACEBOOK ! American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute www.facebook.com/My AWCI Horological Times September 2012 17 technical discussions BY JAY HOLLOWAY AND MICHAEL WEBB Measurements and the Tools for Measuring in Horology W e are all a part of an organization created for those who have an interest professionally, or as a hobby, in timekeeping. Time, as the magnet on my refrigerator says, is “nature’s way of keeping everything from happening at the same time.” It provides a means to measure what we experience—to separate the now from later or earlier. We work with devices made to measure time. To work on those devices, we frequently need to measure things other than time. This program will be devoted to those measurements and the tools used for measuring. This was a presentation by Michael Webb, with notes by Jay Holloway. Both are members of The Capital Area Watchmakers and Clockmakers Guild (CAWCG) in Austin, Texas. This is just one example of some of the fascinating programs offered by our local chapters. Basic measurements are always needed since these horological devices, even when not precision, are made to divide up time. In some of the most primitive devices, such as a very early clepsydra or water clock (see Figure 1), consisted of a bowl of water with a leak—but it needed to be a specific leak. The hole in the bowl had to release the water at a known rate or the leak needed to have a scale imposed upon it. Simple sundials soon had scales on them to divide up the daylight hours. Timekeeping instruments eventually moved to gears as a means of releasing power in a controlled manner, thereby moving an indicator that was marked for timekeeping. While there was innovation in many areas, a lot of the inspiration for gears and mechanisms came in the pursuit of keeping time. As anyone who has spent many instances working with timepieces knows that geared mechanisms have tolerances that must be honored for the piece to work. These tolerances require careful measurements. These measurements included length, depth, thickness, and weight, and these measurements must be known and matched. Rulers, dividers, scales and many Figure 1: Clepsydra or water clock. other tools are needed to produce a timepiece that works. The more precise the timekeeping, the more precision needed in measurements of the parts used to construct the works. With a wide variety of mechanisms used to measure time, there are a great many tools used to measure the parts used in horological devices. The simplest measurements are fairly straightforward— length, width and depth. Starting with the least precise, we have rulers. A good, well-marked metal ruler can be the beginning point for checking these dimensions down to about 1/16th Figure 2: Vernier caliper. of an inch, or one millimeter. With some specialized rulers you may get accuracy at 1/32nd of an inch. Beyond that level of precision we start to need other devices. One of the simpler ones available is a vernier caliper (see Figure 2). These are simple to use, but you do need to know how to read it. It is not complicated, but not intuitive, either. The dial caliper (Figure 3) is easier to read and is used by many more people now than the vernier caliper. It requires no calculations and it is intuitive to read. The main choice on the dial caliper is whether or not to use a dial read or a digital read. Some people are wary of the accuracy of digital models, my- 18 Horological Times September 2012 Leak tester Figure 3: Dial caliper. self included in the past, but the reliability of the digital models has improved a great deal. The digital models do provide an answer on the one other big choice with regular dial calipers, that being metric or inch, since they can be changed from one to the other by pushing a button. Of course, as with any other electrical device, when the battery is dead, it makes a great paper weight. The vernier caliper, having fewer moving parts, can be more accurate Figure 4: Micrometer. than a dial caliper—but much depends on how well each has been made. While the vernier caliper, and various incarnations of the dial caliper are quite accurate, most craftsmen, when faced with the need for absolute accuracy, will go back to the micrometer (see Figure 4). The micrometer is not as convenient as calipers, but a good micrometer is more accurate than an equal quality caliper. One of my uncles had a machine shop; he called calipers “guessing sticks.” One caveat on this subject is that the calipers are closer in accuracy on small parts, when you get up in inches, trusting the thousandths or ten-thousandths reading is more problematic. Of course, another thing my uncle was careful about was not working to tolerances that he did not need. Be sure you need to measure to thousandths for the application before you start worrying about them. If you are not looking for a slip or interference fit, you may not need the accuracy level of a micrometer. Or, if you are working on clocks rather than watches, your need for accuracy will not often always require a micrometer. Micrometers are fairly easy to read. Of course, there are digital models of these, as well, making measurements extremely easy to read. Some ten-thousandths micrometers use a vernier scale (as seen on the vernier caliper) for reading on the thimble. For very close measurements there are bench micrometers. One of these is a very nice boxed piece, the Bench Micrometer (see Figure 5). This micrometer is very accurate, has a couple of ways to measure, and Leak Checker Prime The perfect mix of technology and design. Able to test for leaks up to -0.7 bar vacuum, it provides everything you would expect of a modern, easy-to-use leak testing unit. Key features: • Attractive,timelessdesign • Suitableforallwatchtypesincludingsmall ceramicwatches • Withaccurate,robustpressuresensor • Vacuumcreatedbyaninternalpump • Vacuumandtestingtimecanbefreelyselected andprogrammed • Valuesdisplayedonacolortouchscreen • InstantprintoutofresultswithMartelprinter • Extremelycost-effective • Availablefromautumn2012 Greiner Vibrograf Greiner Vibrograf AG, 4900 Langenthal, Switzerland [email protected], www.greinervibrograf.ch Horological Times September 2012 lay greiner ins awci-ht 3,5x10inch 1b.indd 1 19 29.05.12 15:51 measurements and the tools for measuring in horology BY JAY HOLLOWAY AND MICHAEL WEBB a small table to support for measuring small bits. If you see one at a reasonable price and you need that accuracy, buy it. When you need to measure depth, often you can get a good reading from the tail-end of a caliper. Or, you can insert something into the hole, then mark it and measure it. Otherwise, if more accuracy is needed, you can use a depth micrometer (see Figure 6). These often come with more than one rod so as to cover a good range of measurements. Figure 5: Bench micrometer. Figure 6: Depth micrometer. Figure 7: Uprighting tool. Figure 8: Depthing tool. Figure 9: Triple beam scale. “Scale! We don’t need no stinking scale!” Of course, some measuring devices don’t really need a scale. It could be argued that these are location rather than measuring devices. But for the sake of thoroughness, I should mention they are used in horology. The simplest would be a divider. We generally think of a compass from school days, but a simple divider will allow you to measure a distance and transfer that distance to another location. A slightly more complicated device would be the old watchmaker’s uprighting tool (see Figure 7). It allows you to find a location on one plate and transfer it with accuracy to the other. This insures that your wheels will be “upright,” not leaning. There are other examples of this type of measuring in horology. For example, a depthing tool (Figure 8) could be included in this family of tools. It determines the ideal distance for gear engagement and then allows you to transfer that distance to the plates. Weight measurement is not used extensively in horology, but it is needed at times. One of those times it may be used is in timing washers for watches. Sometimes, the weight is known already, and this applies to the weights used on Atmos clocks to adjust the timing. With the advent of electronic scales being produced at low costs, it is quite cheap and easy to pick up the old triple beam scales (see Figure 9) if you need accurate weight measurements. Another example of the need for a weight measurement would be when you have a weightdriven clock movement with no weights. As most of you have probably experienced, when folks in Europe suddenly found that Americans would pay for those old clocks gathering dust in the attic, the dealers who gathered them up and shipped them were sometimes not all that careful about keeping the weights with the right clock, or even with a clock at all. The simplest way to discover the weight needed (assuming the movement is clean and in good working order) is to use a fishing scale. Be sure you get the old-fashioned direct-read because digital will not work as well. You set up the movement with the scale with one end attached to the end of the cord or chain on the movement, and the other end attached to something fixed. Wind up the clock until there is enough tension to make the clock run strong. Let it run. When it stops, check the weight shown on the scale and add about 20% to that measurement for a good guess at the weight needed. Other • horological or specialized measuring tools can include: For measuring outside diameter there is the very common KWM bushing measurement plate (Figure 10). It has two rows of bushing imbedded in the aluminum plate so you can easily try a pivot to see which size bush you will need. 20 Horological Times September 2012 measurements and the tools for measuring in horology BY JAY HOLLOWAY AND MICHAEL WEBB • There is the less common Seitz jeweled version for watches used for the same purpose of selecting jewels. • There is also the Figure 10: KWM bushing measurement plate. pivot gauge usually provided with a Jacot lathe (see Figure 11) to help determine what bed size to use. • And, a fairly rare tool is the wheel gauge designed to quickly check the outside diameter of a watch wheel. • While these will measure the outside of a round object, the plug gauge (Figure 12) will measure the inside of a hole. • Then, there is also the sliding hole gauge. • There is the roller jewel gauge (see Figure 13), much like the feeler gauges used for spark plugs. • There are crystal gauges (see Figure 14) to measure the size of watch crystals, often proprietary to the manufacturer. • There are gauges to measure between the lugs on wrist watches to determine the size of watch bands and spring bars. • Additionally, there are watch mainspring gauges (see Figure 15) that determine the strength and width of the spring. • Of course, there are also thread checkers to determine screw sizes and pitch. • Watch crown gauges (Figure 16) measure size and tap for crowns. • Finally, there is a gauge for setting up the angle of watch pallet jewels. Any clockmaker who works on 400-day clocks is familiar with the Terwilliger book, indispensible for working on these beasts. One of the great features of the book is a “to scale” size diagram for most suspension units which is very helpful when replacing the suspension spring. This is just one review of the myriad of tools used for measurement in horology. Some watch and clockmakers may have others not mentioned which they prefer, and there are always new tools coming on the market that offer to make our measurements even more precise. t Figure 11: Jacot lathe. Figure 12: Plug gauge. Figure 13: Roller jewel gauge. Figure 14: Crystal gauge. Figure 15: Watch mainspring gauge. Figure 16: Watch crown gauge. Horological Times September 2012 21 affiliate chapter news BY MICHAEL TAYLOR, CW21 Florida State Watchmakers and Clockmakers Association A Letter from FAWC President on Education and Their Exciting Upcoming Events A t the AWCI annual convention in Denver, I was glad to represent our Florida State Chapter and to be involved in the Industry Advisory Board (IAB) meeting. I was able to learn so much during the convention! In Florida, we are proud to call ourselves the Education Chapter. For many years, we have been helping our members in Florida and other states become certified watchmakers by offering beneficial classes that all count as CEU’s. We are able to offer these classes with the help of AWCI instructors from past and present to keep our organization thriving. For example, AWCI Instructor, Tom Schomaker, CMW21, seems to dedicate all his time during our three-day events to encourage us to become 21st Century Certified Watchmakers. For those of us already certified, he motivates us to become even better at what we do. For example, some of the classes we have held in the last few years include: • Three-day class on the Modular Chronograph, February, 2011 • Three-day class on Precision Timing and Adjustment, May, 2011 • Three-day Chronograph Lemania 1873/Ome- ga 861, October, 2011 • Three-day Special High-Grade Ladies Caliber R2135, March 2012 • Coming in October, 2012, we are planning a special high-grade class on the men’s Caliber R1575 (this will be a little different than the class on the same caliber in 2010) We have had so many great classes, but again, we could not be successful without AWCI and Florida state members’ help. We thank all of you for this. have about 200 members when I started in 1998. Because of the aging of watchmakers and clockmakers and some politics, we unfortunately lost members. Around 2002, we seemed to lose another bunch,” ‘the Old-Timers,” as they called themselves. There was also a lack of interest in updating one’s training. I became more involved as Education Chairmen of our chapter and we started offering better AWCI classes, as well as clock classes through the year. I drove everywhere I could in Florida to talk to watch and clock shops so we could build the Florida chapter up again. When I became Acting President, we only had about 8-10 members. We were also dealing with the letter from Rolex that required watchmakers become certified. This turned out to be a tremendous incentive to boost our educational offering and course attendance. Now our membership is back up to around 50 people. The FWCA staff and I have been working hard to develop some of the best professional classes outside of AWCI which can be offered in a clean, convention-type setting. We have not had any clock classes for two years because of the lack of interest, as only two members would take advantage of the classes which Jeff Hamilton taught. We even offered free one-day courses, but again, there was a lack of interest and it was very costly for the chapter. I would like very much to resurrect the clock classes, however, so please call or text me anytime at 941-586-3761 if you have suggestions for us. Also, please keep an eye out for our upcoming convention on October 26, 27, 28th. It will be a good one! There is an AWCI class and demo, a trade show, as well as entertainment and great times. We want to bring the jewelers closer to the watch and clock professional, so we have an agenda just for them, too. If you live anywhere close to Florida, please become a member today and join us at our convention. We need your support! Thank you, Michael Taylor, CW21 President, FWCA www.fwcaonline.com To give you a little history on our group, we used to 22 Horological Times September 2012 Tampa, FL Florida Watch and Clockmakers Association (FWCA) Your Horological Source Since 1969 If you live in Florida, start planning now for the Annual Convention! The Florida Watch and Clockmakers Association’s Annual Convention is being held October 26, 27 & 28 in Tampa, Florida this year. They are also offering a special class on Servicing the R1575 Caliber Including Staffing and Adjusting, taught by AWCI Instructor, Tom Schomaker, CMW21. Other new events offered this year include: This jumbo press includes 25 nylon dies used to fit crystals and close snap-on case backs up to 54.5mm. Includes six rectangle shaped dies. Retail Jewelers Program: 1. Battery Replacement – Avoiding Common Mistakes 2. Take-In Procedures and Indentifying Fakes 3. What is Involved in Waterproofing? 4. Get Involved, Get Educated and Be Profitable! $47.95 Location: Hilton Garden Inn, Tampa, Florida, October 26, 27, 28th www.fwcaonline.com This Italian made tester far surpasses any other tester in its class. Now you can test a case for water pressure up to 10 atmospheres (333 feet). It features a sealed lid construction that protects the acrylic chamber from over tightening of the lid screws. This will prevent those annoying cracks in the top of the chamber. It also has a self-contained hand pump for increasing air pressure and a slow air release valve to help easily identify the source of a leak. Please contact us for more information and to RSVP: Matt Hritz 941-993-0514 [email protected] or Michael Taylor 941-586-3761 The Horological Association of Virginia (HAV) On November 4th, HAV will present a seminar on a clock constructed entirely of wood—built completely from scratch with no input from clockmakers. Several HAV members will work with the developer on accuracy issues. Come to give your input on this project. Other upcoming events include: November 18, 2012 - HAV Board Meeting, Ivy Creek February 24, 2013 - HAV Board Meeting, Ivy Creek May 3, 4, 5, 2013 - HAV convention in Roanoke, Virginia. The program will include Clock and Watch seminars— more details to come. Contact Mike Creasey, President, [email protected] Available Online at www.LivesaysInc.com Jumbo Case Press Stock #592.060 Calypso Waterproof Tester 1 BAR = 10 METERS, 1 BAR = 33 Ft, 1 ATM = 1 BAR Stock #598.100 $719.99 Prices subject to change without notice. 9/12 Phone Orders (800) 476-2715 Fax Orders (800) 476-8016 Email: [email protected] Online Catalog: www.LivesaysInc.com Horological Times September 2012 23 affiliate chapter Capital Area Watch & Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG) To RSVP or for more information, please contact Secretary, Dean Ziegenbein at 952-322-4776 or via e-mail: [email protected] Will you be in Austin, Texas this fall? Southwestern watch and clock enthusiasts are invited to join the Capital Area Watch & Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG) in Austin for their upcoming Affiliate Chapter meetings. Their next few meetings are as follows: • • • news September meeting - Dennis Warner, CW21 “TBD” October - Mary Ellen Bell “Horological Travels” November - David Arnold “TBD” Join CAWCG to network, learn and socialize with fellow horologists. Dinner: 5:00 PM – 6:00 PM, Program: 6:00 PM. Location: Pok-E-Jo’s Smokehouse, 2121 Parmer Lane (near Metric Blvd.) in Austin, Texas. Please contact Jay Holloway, Secretary, for more information: [email protected]. AW C I M E M B E R B E N E F I T a unique timepiece magazine 3 yrs/only $30 (6 issues) AWCI Members Save $10! Regular Subscription Rate $40. www.watch-around.com Subscribers should visit www.watch-around,com All payments must be made via website. Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG) Upcoming meetings for this very active affiliate chapter are: October 4 - Clock brass for plates, wheels and bushings, by a University of Minnesota Aeronauti cal Materials Engineer November 1 - Laser welding for small parts repair and construction, by Duane Tvenge, own er of Jayandee Services December 6 – Show-and-tell of clocks from our Clock-Building Class 24 Horological Times September 2012 industry Chelsea Clock Unveils Rare Collector Series Over 80 Vintage Mechanical Clocks from WWII U.S. Victory Ships Soon to be Available Chelsea Clock has reclaimed over 80 marine mechanical clocks, formerly installed on U.S. Victory Ships built by the U.S. Maritime Commission during World War II. These authentic military timepieces, produced by Chelsea Clock for the U.S. government in the 1940s, are in the process of being returned to optimum working condition by Chelsea’s certified repair and restoration technicians. As each original piece is restored, it will be available for purchase on the company’s site at www.ChelseaClock.com The Restoration Process Over the coming months, Chelsea Clock technicians will work to repair and restore each vintage military timepiece. All 80-plus clocks will be disassembled and ultrasonically cleaned. Any worn and broken pieces will be repaired or replaced. And clock cases will be revived, while taking special care to preserve their vintage appearance. Each clock bears its original Chelsea Clock serial number, and will include information about the U.S. Victory Ship upon which it sailed. All clocks will also carry a two-year warranty. news 1940s Mechanical Military Clocks While each vintage clock in this U.S. Victory Ship collection is unique—based on its specific history and condition—all share some common features. All have black phenolic (high-impact, shatterproof resin) cases and hinged locking bezels. All are key-wind mechanical timepieces and most feature 12E (time-only) movements. A small number have 16E movements, which include a second hand bit. In addition, each displays 12-hour and 24-hour military time on either a 6” black or white dial. A small number feature 8” dials. U.S. Victory Ships: A Brief History In 1943, the U.S. Maritime Commission embarked upon a program to develop a new type of emergency ship that would replace those lost to German submarines during the early part of WWII. Dubbed the “Victory” ship, the new vessel was designed to be faster than its predecessor, the Liberty ship. The first Victory ship, the S.S. United Victory, was built at Oregon Shipbuilding in Portland and delivered on February 28, 1944. A total of 531 Victories were constructed by North American shipyards, comprising 414 cargo ships and 117 attack transports. Ninety-seven of the Victories were outfitted as troop carriers; the others carried food, fuel, ammunition, material and supplies. While the lines of the Victory ship were not unlike those of the Liberty, the propulsion was vastly superior. Liberty ships were powered by steam engines, with a maximum speed of 11 knots, which made them BUSHINGS! KWM SIZE IN BRONZE $4.00/ 20 pc PACK KWM SIZE IN BRASS $8.00/ 50 pc PACK No min order. No small parts surcharge. Mailing $2 US/CAN, $5 Internatl. Butterworth Clocks, Inc. Before Restoration After Restoration 5300 59th Ave. West Muscatine, IA 52761 Phone: 563-263-6759 Fax: 563-263-0428 E-mail: [email protected] Horological Times September 2012 25 industry easy prey for submarines. Victories were propelled by the more modern steam turbine, generating between 5,500 to 8,500 horsepower and providing cruising speeds of up to 15 to 17 knots (approximately 18.5 miles per hour). The crew typically included 62 civilian merchant sailors and 28 naval personnel (to operate defensive guns and communications equipment). Chelsea Clock: A History of Military Service Zenith El Primero Striking 10th Watch The First Caliber with Ultra-Accurate 1/10th of a Second Measurement and Display The El Primero Striking 10th chronograph embodies the return of the Manufacture Zenith to the technical values that have forged the brand’s success. The legendary El Primero caliber was the world’s first automatic chronograph to beat at a rate of 10 vibrations per second. It is the most sophisticated mechanical “motor.” The company states it has the highest degree of precision, since the vast majority of mechanical movements beat at 8 vibrations per second at best. During the 1940s and beyond, Chelsea Clock supplied thousands of mechanical clocks to the U.S. Military for use aboard both Victory and Liberty ships, as well as on submarines, destroyers, cruisers, battleships and aircraft carriers. In fact, in 1943, Chelsea was one of the few companies presented with the prestigious “E” award by the U.S. Government in recognition of manufacturing excellence for its production of military clocks. However, of the thousands of Liberty and Victory ships that once graced the sea only a small number remain today. Today, Chelsea Clock continues to produce a vast number of mechanical and quartz timepieces for installation aboard U.S. Navy and Merchant Marine ships, as well as on numerous military and peacekeeping vessels. Founded in 1897 in Chelsea, Massachusetts, Chelsea Clock is the oldest clock company in America. SOON, WE’LL HAVE OVER 2,000 TECH GUIDES ONLINE! Right now, we have watchmaker tech guides alphabetically through the letter “O” for watchmakers. Once this section is finished, we’ll start posting guides for Clockmakers. To get to the technical guides we have on www.awci.com go to: - For Watchmakers/Clockmakers - Click the blue bar: For The Watchmaker - Scroll down to the heading: Technical Guides and Requests (click into this section) - Choose: Click Here for Technical Guides and open desired folder. Download as needed. news Direct 1/10th of a Second Reading While measuring such a short fraction of time is an accomplishment in itself, making it readable is yet another. To achieve this, Zenith has considerably refined and improved the principle of jumping seconds. The chronograph hand makes a complete dial rotation in 10 seconds and each of its steps precisely indicates a 1/10th of a second against the 100 graduations engraved on the dial. The perfectly balanced case accentuates the three subdials, consisting of the two chronograph totalizers and the running seconds display arranged in a V shape. The readability is guaranteed by three different shades on the subdials. The five-pointed star shines at the “zenith” of this timepiece. 26 Horological Times September 2012 industry Dizzying Vital Statistics on the El Primero 4052B Caliber Overview: • Beats at a rate of 36’000 vibrations per hour, meaning 864’000 a day or 315’360’000 beats per year • 326 Components, 31 jewels & 36’000 VpH 0 5 Hz • Exclusive 1/10th of a second display: the Chronograph hand makes 1 turn in 10 sec. • Available in Limited Edition of Stainless Steel or Rose Gold in a 42 mm Case diameter Movement: • El Primero 4052 B, Automatic; Caliber: 13 1/4 Diameter: 30 mm; Height: 6.60 mm • Power reserve: min. 50 hours • Finishings: oscillating weight decorated with “Côtes de Genève” pattern • Case, Dial & Hands Material: 18-carat Rose Gold or Stainless Steel • • • • news Diameter: 42 mm; Diameter opening: 37.10 mm Crystal: Box sapphire glass with anti-reflec- tion treatment on both sides Case-back: Transparent Sapphire glass Water-resistance: 10 ATM Functions: • Hours and minutes in center; Small second at 9 o’clock; Date indicator at 6 o’clock • 1/10th of a second chronograph: – 60 min counter at 6 o’clock – 60 seconds counter at 3 o’clock – 1/10th of a second indication by the chronograph hand If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes The Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces certain to be of interest to collectors and connoisseurs. CHRONOS includes interesting stories about the world of automobiles and racing. Coverage of outstanding museum exhibits, fashion trends, and travel stories all add to the enjoyment and satisfaction of this unique lifestyle magazine. oOne Year (6 issues) $30.00 oTwo Years (12 issues) $ 55.00 oThree Years (18 issues) $80.00 Foreign Subscriptions U.S. Dollars Only oOne Year (6 issues) $48.00 oTwo Years (12 issues) $90.00 oThree Years (18 issues) $116.00 ______ Check or Money Order Enclosed ______ Charge my Visa or MasterCard Card No. _______________________________________________ Exp. Date: ______________Security Code: __________________ Signature;_____________________________________________ Name: (please print) _______________________________________________________ Address: ________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ State:_________________ Zip: ________ Country: _______________________________Phone: __________________________ Mail to: CHRONOS 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 USA Horological Times September 2012 27 education & My Thoughts on AWCI Courses and the New Advanced 21 Series I began taking courses through AWCI when Tom Schomaker, CMW21, first began teaching at AWCI, and I took a class from him on Automatic watches. Although I thought I was pretty sharp, this class increased my knowledge and improved my techniques significantly. I learned about everything from new tools to new procedures and technologies, and it helped me tremendously in my business. Even if you are a highly experienced watchmaker, I encourage you to attend AWCI courses. You simply cannot apply older techniques to the new models that are coming out. These new watches are different in many ways, and you have to keep up-to-date on modern repair techniques and new kinds of tools and equipment. Recently, I had been hearing about the new Advanced21 brand-specific courses in the HT, so I attended one a few months ago. It was extremely helpful. For me, these courses are an investment in my business and they pay off in the long run. Wilbert Campos, CW21 Campos Watch Repair Waco, Texas certification New Swatch Group Products Advanced 21 Class November 5 – 9, 2012 Featuring the Caliber 3303 Omega Hurry! Instructor, Dan Fenwick, Only 4 left. SWATCH GROUP US places This class, taught by Dan Fenwick from The Swatch Group US, will focus on “Swatch Group Products.” Students will fully service the Frederic Piquet automatic chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch. This is the Swiss Lever version used by Omega as caliber 3303. The new generation of Tissot Tactile products, including the T-Touch Expert and the Sea-Touch will be introduced. Students will work on the ETA 2894 modular chronograph from Longines. Longines is requesting that watchmakers be trained on the service of this commonly-exchanged chronograph module. Completion of this course will allow the participant to purchase the specialized tool that permits convenient assembly of the unit. As time permits, students may also review Swatch Group water testing/equipment, information packages and the evolution of the Omega Co-Axial escapement. AWCI advanced 21 28 Horological Times September 2012 education & certification Brand and Caliber-Specific Training - 2012 / 2013 2012 Advanced 21 Series classes (5 CEUs each) are offered only to CW21 and CMW21 AWCI members: Sept 10 - 14 - Caliber R3035 - Advanced 21 Series Oct 15 - 19 - Caliber R3035 - Advanced 21 Series Nov 5 - 9 - Caliber 3303 Omega - Advanced 21 Series - This class will be taught by Dan Fenwick from The Swatch Group US. Its focus will be on “Swatch Group Products”. Students will fully service the Frederic Piquet automatic chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch. Please read the details on this course on opposing page. 2013 Feb 11 - 5 - Advanced 21 Series - TBA March 11 - 15 - Advanced 21 Series - TBA 5-day block: $875.00 AWCI Academy of Watchmaking Sept 17-21 Modern Mechanical Chronograph 7750/7751 (5 CEUs) Sept 24-28 Modern Automatic Watches (5 CEUs) Jan 28 - Feb 1 Balance Staffing & Timing (5 CUEs) Mar 4 - 8 Quartz Watch Repair & Testing (5 CEUs) Mar 18-22 Basic Watch Repair 5-day block: $875.00 CW21 Exam Schedule - 2012 Oct 1-4 Dec 3-6 Feb 4 - 7 April 5 - 18 AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH OSU Institute of Technology, Okmulgee, OK AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH Please visit the www.awci.com website for information on classes and exams. SIGN UP EARLY! We reserve the right to cancel a class if there are less than six participants signed up 30 days prior to the first day of class, so we encourage you to wait before making travel or hotel arrangements until this deadline has passed. If in doubt, please contact Daniela Ott at 866-367-2924, ext. 303. TO REGISTER FOR CLASSES OR EXAMS, please call toll-free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303 or e-mail: [email protected]. Horological Times September 2012 29 awci FACEBOOK ISN’T JUST FOR SOCIALIZING www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Today, Facebook isn’t just a form of media for socializing on the internet. It can be used for that, of course, but businesses worldwide are using Facebook for so much more. “Like what?” you may ask. If you look closely at MyAWCI, it links you to articles of interest, media coverage about our members, announcements about the Institute, job postings, features on new products—and much more. Some Facebook stats for MyAWCI as of 8/25/12: • Over 500 “Likes” (regular followers) • Friends of fans: 182,589 (largest possible reach for our message) • Largest # people reached in 1 week: 3,092 between 7/31-8/6/12 (there were numerous postings on the convention at that time) 1. Our Facebook page is: A place for AWCI to communicate about events, promotions and classes. If you are on Facebook and have “Liked” the AWCI Facebook page, you will see that we used it all throughout 2012 to promote the AWCI Annual Convention, which was extremely well-attended this year. We also use it to announce Affiliate Chapter events which help them build attendance. 2. 3. news Facebook allows us to: Publish photos, videos, updates, press releases, media coverage about AWCI and our members and Affiliate Chapters. 4. Facebook is: A place with highly-targeted, affordable ads that deliver a specific age, gender, geographic audience, or an audience with a specific interest, such as horology. By purchasing an ad here, a business only pays for performance, but reaches many more viewers in the form of “impres- sions.” AWCI has used inexpensive Facebook ads to help sell our books and other items. 5. Most importantly, Facebook drives interested participants to AWCI: We are engaging people on MyAWCI which drives them to our website and news blog, and often, to our e-mail and phones. Is Facebook a different way to communicate with people? Definitely. But a large part of the world is on it. Did you know there are now over 1 BILLION people using Facebook? AWCI must be an active Facebook participant because our former, current and new target audiences currently are—and will be—on Facebook. But maybe one of the best things you can say about Facebook is that we can reach out to any audience with any type of information. And unless we decide to place a paid ad—Facebook is totally free. t Facebook gives you: A voice. AWCI members, management and enthusiasts all have a voice. And through posts, anyone can freely express ideas and opinions to each other. It’s a forum where people often elaborate on our topics, providing helpful information and spreading the word to other interested parties. 30 Horological Times September 2012 awci news Please make a copy of this form or tear it out and mail it to: AWCI, 701 Enterprise Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45030 PLEASE VOLUNTEER! The President of AWCI will appoint committee members for fiscal year 2012-2013. AWCI relies heavily on its committees to establish and implement goals for the year. If you have time and talent to spare, consider volunteering to serve. The committees listed below are those which are currently established in either the AWCI Constitution or Bylaws. Please indicate the committee(s) for which you are qualified in the order of preference. Please mark a number from 1 up to 11 in each box, with your desired choice(s). Please use #1 as your first choice, #2 as your second choice and so on and so forth. Thank you: Constitution & Bylaws Committee Convention Committee Finance Committee Marketing Committee Nominating Committee for AWCI Board Honor Awards Committee Horological Times Committee Strategic Action Committee Education Committee Ethics Committee Internet Forum Committee Name: Membership Number: Address: City: State: Zip Code: Phone (Home): Phone (Business): E-mail (required): Fax (optional): Please give a brief explanation of your qualifications to serve on committee(s) selected: Horological Times September 2012 31 questions & answers by david christianson, cmw21, fawi QUESTION: Can you shed any light on this pocket watch, which has little in the way of identification? Richard Bunkelmann Kingman, Arizona ANSWER: Your pocket watch is known as a Swiss railroad. I cannot tell you who made your watch, but I can tell you that it was finished from an ebauche (rough movement) commonly used by Swiss, French and other makers between 1883 and 1889. It has a cylinder escapement that was commonly mass-produced and used in moderately-priced watches. Without any identifying features or signatures, I would have to guess that yours is either Swiss or French in origin. As you may well know, the cylinder escapement was invented by Thomas Tompion, perfected by his student, George Graham (1673-1751), and used by such eminent makers as Julian Le Roy, Urban Jurgensen, John Arnold, John Elliott and Abraham Breguet, all using a ruby cylinder and a steel wheel. The cylinder escapement found wide-spread use in the thin Lepine movements and was instrumental in watchmakers abolishing the fusee in favor of the going barrel in watch movement design; albeit, using a steel cylinder and a steel wheel. Les Echappement A Cylindre (1729-1950) is the premier book providing background to the manufacture, workforce and methods of producing the cylinder in the L’Haute-Doubs areas of France in the 19th century (the valley running parallel to the French side of the Jura Mountains.) These mountains are famous for watchmaking both in France and Switzerland. According to Henry Fried’s review of this book (published in 1985 in the Horological Times), the French produced millions of the cylinder escapements that were used by makers in France, Switzerland and Germany. Since this 1985 book covers the cylinder escapement from 1729 to 1950, I would assume that the last commercially-made cylinder escapement was made in 1950. By the late 19th century, the cylinder escapements were mass-produced and were so plentiful that they were used in watches of low-tomoderate quality, at best. Send your Questions to Horological Times 32 701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030 [email protected] 866-367-2924 ext.307 Horological Times September 2012 awci news BULLETIN BOARD Member, John Ingram, would like assistance in finding a source for a broken circuit board in a quartz Cuckoo clock. There is no marking for the manufacturer. Does anyone recognize this clock? If so, please contact Amy Dunn at AWCI: [email protected] CLOCKS June 2011, = .45/AU$10.50 £4.45/US$8 Established 1977 e a z i n m a g com smagazine. www.clock an abroad An Englishm All available from our website clocksmagazine.com Horological Times September 2012 33 ads news classified industry clock classes Clock Repair, Making & Designing by Laurie Penman Laurie Penman’s Correspondence Course has run since 1990. One-to-one tuition, 24/7 distance instruction and help by Internet and Skype. No time limit on individual courses. £550. Classes in the gorgeous English countryside. One student £800, Two £450 ea. Three £330 ea. Mid-day meal included. Details: [email protected] SCHAUBLIN 70 LATHE Wheelcutting, indexing, grinding, centering microscope. All attachments, slide compound, lever feed tailstock, sets of collets, cutting tools and holders. 2 sets of wheelcutters, brass and steel stock. Photos avail. 765-282-6786. Order On Line 24/7 We inventory 1000’s of keys, pendulums, dials, hands, bezels & dial pans, chime rods & gongs, clock chain & cable, cuckoo parts, clock glass, glass domes, fasteners, verges & wheels, barometer parts, Atmos style tools & material, ultrasonic cleaners, mainsprings, quartz & mechanical movements, electric movements, tools, for sale Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books & DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Powell, TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671; www.wrsmithclocks.com HAMILTON ORIGINAL MILITARY MATERIAL Supplying original factory material for the Hamilton Model 21 Chronometer, Model 22 Deck Watch & Military 16 Size Watch Models 23, 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much material for the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. LARRY CRUTSINGER P.O. Box 8514 Norfolk, VA 23503 757-650-9470 E-mail: [email protected] www.militarywatchmuseum.com AUCTIONS: DISCOVER THE SOURCE! in building a collection of clocks and watches or finding horological parts and tools for the trade. GORDON S. CONVERSE & CO. Consignments now accepted! 610-722-9004. • WWW.AUCTIONSATCONVERSE.COM PARTS - CIRCUITS - MOVEMENTS Including but not limited to calibers 201.001, 210.001, 950.001, 959.001. We also have parts for ETA, ESA, AS, FEF, FHF, UNITAS, FELSA and other calibers. [email protected] • (208) 676-8430 WELCH MANTEL CLOCKS Patti, Gurster, Cary, Mint condition. Have been in my possession for over 20 years. Pictures available, clocks are in NC. Must be sold as set. Asking $5000, 336-469-9172. products, batteries, books, suspension springs, clocks, cleaning solutions, lubricants, & more. Timesavers Box 12700 • Scottsdale, AZ 85267 • USA Phone: 480-483-3711 • Fax:480-483-6116 [email protected] • www.timesavers.com Our 172 page illustrated catalog #37 is free online or only $5 in North America for a printed copy. Dashto Inc Established in 1974 Tom Mister Virginia Beach, Va Huge and ever-changing selection. Used and new horological items. Sold by internet only Check out our site: www.dashto.com or www.dashto.org TOOLS/EQUIPMENT/MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS POCKET/WRISTWATCHES/WATCH MOVEMENTS WATCH CASES & DIALS/WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES & MUCH MORE WE BUY AND TRADE ALSO: [email protected] help wanted WATCHMAKER? SERVICE SWISS WATCHES? Call or text me: 404-543-0329 Tammy, ATLANTA. CW21 OPPORTUNITY, MADISON, WI Leading jeweler and only authorized Rolex jeweler and repair facility in Madison, WI., known for quality and philanthropy, seeks Century 21 (CW21) Certified watchmaker. Offers competitive compensation and benefits. Madison enjoys a moderate cost-of-living and was voted “One of the ten most livable cities in the US.” Contact John Hayes: 608-257-3644, [email protected]. EOE Full-time Watchmaker Needed, South Houston, TX CW21 certification required for luxury independent retail store with competitive salary and benefits. Saturdays required. Email resume to: [email protected] or call 281-332-8433 34 WATCH/CLOCK TECHNICIAN, TOPEKA, KS Time Lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 years experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service company. Must have certification or at least 5 years experience in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche industry located in Topeka, KS. Send resume and references to [email protected] or fax to 785-232-2603. CLOCKMAKER – FULL TIME, SAN DIEGO, CA Looking for a clock repair person to work full time. Need someone to do in-house repairs, as well as some house calls. Busy shop works on all kinds of clocks, both Antique and Modern. Need experience repairing all kinds of clocks. Salary depends on level of experience. Call 760-480-6488. EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER, RHODE ISLAND Full time position for an experienced watchmaker to step into well established position/retail location. Located in Rhode Island. Must have experience with such brands as Tag Heuer, Rolex, Omega, Patek, and Cartier. Contact us at [email protected] Watchmaker Wanted, Miami Beach, FL Brera Group LLC, in Miami Beach, FL is seeking watchmaker to perform thorough physical inspection, testing and diagnosis of incoming watches for After Sales Service. The watchmaker will perform all manner of repairs; maintenance, cleaning and or overhauls on watches received at the After Sales Service workshop and maintain a clean, neat, organized workshop, including the work areas, equipment and tools. Apply at info@ breraorologi.com or 305.604.6360. Talented, Certified Watchmaker – Long Island, NY H.L. Gross & Bro. Jewelers is a fifth-generation family owned jewelry store located in Garden City, NY on Long Island. We are currently building a new 5,000 sq foot store where we will be moving that will feature a Rolex Boutique as well as a certified Rolex repair center. We are seeking a talented and certified watchmaker for a full-time position in our store to handle all Watchmakerrelated responsibilities. Call 516-747-6666. Watchmaker Wanted – New York City A legendary watch repair business located in the heart of New York City is seeking a watchmaker to work on all major brands. Must be proficient in all phases of vintage mechanical movements. Experience with ETA mechanical movements preferred. Great opportunity to join a longestablished, fast-growing business. Grand Central Station location, state-of-the-art equipment, very competitive compensation. Contact Steve Kivel at stevekivel@yahoo. com or 212-685-1689 x4. Need Certified Watchmaker – Cranston, RI Saltzman’s Watches is hiring full-time certified watchmaker to repair watches for certified after-sales service centers and independent jewelers around the U.S. We offer competitive salaries and benefits packages. The job is in Cranston Rhode Island and is from Monday through Friday. Contact: [email protected] WATCHMAKER WANTED – IL Great starting salary, Vernon Hills, IL. Contact: Jodie 224-715-5102. Horological Times September 2012 classified help wanted Watchmaker Needed - LIVE & WORK IN PARADISE Little Switzerland is one of the largest Caribbean-based retailers of fine jewelry and timepieces. We sell Breitling, Tag Heuer, Omega, Cartier, Rado, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil, Movado and more. Must have completed factory training and certification by at least one of the following: WOSTEP, Breitling, Omega, Tag Heuer of Cartier. Full watch service facility located in St. Thomas, USVI. To apply, email resume to [email protected]. Experienced Watch or Clockmaker, Topeka, KS Time lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 year experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service company. Must have certification or at least 5 years experience in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche industry located in Topeka, KS. Send resume and references to [email protected] or fax to 785-232-2603. Clock Repair, CA Looking for clock repairperson full time. Need someone to do in-house repairs, as well as some house calls. This is a busy shop working on all kinds of clocks, both Antique and Modern. Need someone with experience repairing all kinds of clocks. Salary depends on level of experience 619-884-6488. Certified Watchmaker, Richboro, PA Time After Time, Inc., a Philadelphia-region Watch Retailer is looking for a certified watchmaker. •Complete Services (Mechanical, Quartz, Automatic, Chronograph and Movements with Complications) • Maintenance Services • Battery Changes • Crystal Replacement • Diagnosis • Quick Services • Dismantling • Maintain Productivity Goals • Must have skills to service all types of watches from basic mechanical and quartz movements on. Compensation is determined by experience. Position is based out of our Richboro, PA office. Contact: 215-802-7711 or [email protected] Repair | Restoration Opening for CW21 in Ocala, FL A professional watch repair business located in Ocala, Florida is seeking a CW21 watchmaker to work on Rolex watches and all major brands. Must be proficient in all phases of vintage mechanical movements. Min. 5 years experience with a ORJ preferred. Experience with ETA mechanical movements also preferred. Great opportunity to join a long-established, fast-growing business. We have state-of-the-art equipment and will supply you with an apartment. Contact: [email protected] situations wanted Clockmaker Experienced seeking full time permanent situation. For more information contact AWCI at: [email protected], 866-367-2924, ext. 307. CW21 Seeking Full-Time in Midwest CW21 with 14 years experience is seeking full-time position preferably in the Midwest, PA or Western NY. Contact John: 724–272–8703 chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778 DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032; (253) 852-5125 ATMOS Service/Repair Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor 314-968-1010/877-437-1774, Clockmaster, Inc. – Robert Good 2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. St. Louis, Missouri 63144 LASER WELDING REPAIR Reconstruction of watch cases, bands (gold and two tone), antique mountings, welding, cracked or broken clock arbors, hands and other metal parts. All aspects of jewelry repair. Joel Lefaive (520) 579-8668 DENNIS KAYE 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 888-363-9510 • 540-SERVICE Porcelain Dial Restoration Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock Platform Escapement Repair Atmos Parts & Service 400-Day Clock Repair tradesmen Larry Blanchard, CMW21 At Palmer’s Jewelry 101 East Sycamore St., Kokomo, IN 46901 Phone (800) 207-1251 • Fax (765) 457-8517 E-mail: [email protected] Facebook.com/palmerjewelry Continuing with service of tuning fork Accutron, vintage American and fine Swiss watches. Kundo Coil / Electric Clock Service Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™ FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com Large Supply of Watch Movements & Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 • CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI www.fendley-cox.com HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH RESTORATION Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off Service/Sales of Timing and Cleaning Machines Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster Over 14 years experience Quick repairs & reasonable prices www.timemachinerepair.com Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or [email protected] WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN 30 years experience Horology School Graduate Please contact John [email protected] MAINSPRINGS Clock and music box - All sizes. Custom made. Brass gear blanks. Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering) Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected] All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates ads Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and 505 Electric watches. René Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 94976, Phone (415) 924-6534 www.hamiltonwristwatch.com Watch Parts Fabrication: I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to modern. MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 www.henningwatches.com BEARINGS We will install our patent pending ButterBearings™ in your chain wound movement. These bearings reduce friction by over 90% and come with a lifetime warranty. For details contact: Butterworth Clocks, Inc. 5300 59th Ave. W., Muscatine IA 52761 tel 563.263.6759 fax 563.263.0428 email [email protected] DIAL REFINISHING BEFORE AFTER Quartz Conversions Diamond Dial Conversions Emblem & Name Personalization Write for Brochures INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Horological Times September 2012 58 W. SUGARTREE P.O. BOX 970 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 (937) 382-4535 35 classified wanted to buy WE BUY WATCHES Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 WANTED: USED SILVER OXIDE BATTERIES Payout: $60/lb. and up for used silver oxide batteries. Free secured shipping & pickup. Payment issued immediately. You can DONATE all or portion of EARNINGS TO AWCI’S ELM TRUST as tax write off. For details contact: [email protected] 800-764-7458 • www.batterybuyers.com ROLEX PARTS WANTED Buying Rolex crowns, crystals and material, new stock only. Also buying Rolex watches, bracelets and movements any age. Call Paul at 978-256-5966 or e-mail [email protected] WANTED! Entire Watch Collections Scrap Watchbands Gold-Filled Cases & Scrap Gold, Silver & Platinum Scrap Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts Paying for Valjoux 69,72,88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 $300, Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Movado 90,95 $300.00. Also buying high-grade movements and parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401, 1-866-877-8164, [email protected]. Call Toll Free 1-800-208-2608 $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Le Coultre Vacheron - AP - Etc. Specialty Metals Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 WANTED WATCH BOXES Buy - Sell - Trade We want most major brands. Also buying high-end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Top prices paid for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073 HAMILTON 505 BALANCE COMPLETES WANTED Paying $20 each. Must have good coils/hairsprings. Wornout contacts okay. René Rondeau, PO Box 391, Corte Madra, CA 94976. [email protected]. Visit our website for more information www.specialtymetalsrefiners.com 2490 Black Rock Tpke. Fairfield, CT 06825 203-366-2500 - Local 800-884-7966 - Fax [email protected] Member: Jewelers Board of Trade Buying Gold-Plated Watchbands $20 lb. & Up! Gold-Filled-Even More! Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired). BUYERS FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY 877-670-7799 [email protected] • watchbatterybuyers.com ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have helped over 200 watchmakers in the last 15 years to dispose of their accumulations. When you’re really ready to sell, we’re ready to buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected] services Repair | Restoration GetFor$60 lb—And UP! Used Silver Oxide Batteries Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired). 877-670-7799 [email protected] • watchbatterybuyers.com We also fit glass crystals to Openface, hunting, and English chain drive watches. Complete watches, dials, movements, case springs for sale G F Specialties 1-800-351-6926 P.O. Box 170216 Milwaukee, WI 53217 www.gfspecialties.com ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE We are Factory Authorized Service for: • Greiner VIBROGRAF • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 Used Equipment Bought & Sold For Information (415) 479-8960 www.electronicinstrumentservice.com HT Classifieds Work For: THE SWATCH GROUP, Canada “We had a wonderful response to the [recruitment] ad.” Human Resources, THE SWATCH GROUP, Canada CLASSIFIED RATES 2012 Ads are payable in advance $1.10 per word, $1.50 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $47.50 per column inch, 2¼” wide. Color an additional $15.00. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. Horological Times 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Toll Free 866-367-2924, ext. 307 Phone (513) 367-9800 • Fax (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] • www.awci.com MINIMUM SCHEDULE: 3 months Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings for readers to recognize specifics in your ad. BUYERS FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY ads All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778 36 TO PLACE YOUR AD: Contact: Amy Dunn, 866-367-2924, ext. 307, [email protected] Horological Times September 2012 awci BOARD OF DIRECTORS Officers Manuel Yazijian, CMW21: President [email protected] Wes Grau, CMW21: Vice President Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] Henry Kessler: Treasurer [email protected] David Douglas, CW21: Secretary [email protected] Immediate Past President Dennis Warner, CW21: President [email protected] Directors Tom Nesbit, CW21 [email protected] Gene Bertram, CC [email protected] Fred White, CMW21 [email protected] Michal Blaszczyk, CW21 [email protected] Ron Landberg, CW21 [email protected] ADVERTISER’S INDEX Borel & Co., Jules (816) 421-6110 inside front cover Butterworth Clocks, Inc. (563) 263-6759 ...................................... 25 Cas-Ker Co. (513) 674-7700 ....................................... 17 Chronos (303) 296-1600....................................... 27 Clocks Magazine 011 44 131 331 3200 ............................... 33 Energizer energizer.com.......................................... 16 Global Battery Buyers (855) 243-2724 ....................................... 14 Greiner Vibrograf greinervibrograf.ch ............................... 19 Livesay’s, Inc. (813) 229-2715 ........................................ 23 Magnum Power Products, Inc. (480) 205-2193 ...................................... 24 Renata (800) 527-0719 ..................... back cover Watch Around watch-around.com ............................... 24 Witschi Electronic Ltd. 011 32 352 05 00 ...................................... 9 directory INDUSTRY ADVISORY BOARD Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373 w w w. c r t i m e . c o m Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373 w w w . c r t i m e . c o m Electra Steam Jason Ziegenbein, CW21 REC Director [email protected] Terry Kurdzionak IAB Director [email protected] Fellows *Robert F. Bishop *James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt Alice B. Carpenter David A. Christianson George Daniels Wes Door *Henry B. Fried *Josephine F. Hagans *Orville R. Hagans Ewell D. Hartman *Harold J. Herman J.M. Huckabee Gerald G. Jaeger Jack Kurdzionak *Benjamin Matz *Robert A. Nelson *Hamilton E. Pease Archie B. Perkins Antoine Simonin William O. Smith, Jr. Milton C. Stevens *Marvin E. Whitney *Deceased WE THANK THE IAB Movado Group Inc. AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the Institute and the industry. SWISS WATCH SERVICE GROUP, INC. Simon Golub & Sons, Inc. SWISStime care, Inc. PTRC Inc. Richemont American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Dr. Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI • 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com Horological Times September 2012 37 0% MERCURY