BOĞAZİÇİ (ÜSKÜDAR

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BOĞAZİÇİ (ÜSKÜDAR
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BOĞAZİÇİ
(ÜSKÜDAR-KUZGUNCUK)
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Hüseyin Avni Paşa
Nemlizade Tütün Depos
Üsküdar İskelesi
ÜSKÜDAR
Salacak- Filizler Köftecisi - Kahvehaneler
Kız Kulesi
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Kuzguncuk Çarşı Caddesi
Fethi Paşa Yalısı
Fethi Paşa Korusu
Nacak Sokak
Özbekler Tekkesi
İcadiye Caddesi
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ÜSKÜDAR (Centre)
A View of Istanbul from the Continent of Asia
See the Maiden’s Tower and the Historical Peninsula from Asia! Üsküdar, together with its
history and nature, will present you with the pleasure of seeing Europe from Asia, and you will
not forget the experience for as long as you live!
Üsküdar conceals within it the most beautiful places to view the Bosphorus from Anatolia!
Explore its welcoming neighbourhoods, such as Kuzguncuk and Salacak, and discover here
the local life of Istanbul which stretches from the past into the future!
Edmondo de Amicis, in his book “Costantinopoli” (1877) which described the Istanbul of 136
years ago, said of Üsküdar:
“Here I see a more cheerful, fresher, different Istanbul. Here is a community of a large village.
There is countryside on every side. Small streets containing stables descend the valleys and
hills, and they are lost among gardens and vegetable plots.”
Despite the passage of so much time, when you go to Üsküdar, that historic character “that
we know”, “its friendly air, the warmth and naturalness of its people” can still show you an
Istanbul that is “more cheerful, fresher” and a “different” or “genuine Istanbul”.
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Üsküdar in History
The first settlement in Istanbul appeared
between 8000 to 6000 BC, when the Sea of
Marmara was still a lake. We have learned
this thanks to the Marmaray excavations.
In 546BC, Üsküdar, which is also called
“Scutari”, was known as “Khrysopolis”, the
“City of Gold”, where the Persians stored
their gold.
What has been learned and found, thanks
to the Marmaray excavations in Üsküdar,
Yenikapı, and Sirkeci, has been given some
sort of order in this video: http://www.
youtube.com/watch?v=mwy9rZTTAxU
It is known that around 1000BC, the
Phoenicians established two port cities, one
of which was Khalkedon (Kadıköy) and the
other on the Cape of Moda.
The history of Üsküdar is rather like a
hidden treasure which has been discovered
and re-discovered in every era.
It served as a headquarters for the Crusader
armies, in the area between Haydarpaşa,
Ibrahimağa, and the Ayrılık Fountain,
and was the scene for a summer palace in
Harem which suffered looting and pillaging.
Historical documents tell us that the
advance guards of Seyyid Battal Ghazi’s
Islamic armies spent seven years in the area
around Üsküdar with the aim of conquering
Istanbul.
Traces of a permanent Turkish presence in
Üsküdar can be seen after the victory at the
Battle of Manzikert (Malazgirt in Turkish)
in 1071.
It came under Ottoman Turkish control
around 1348, when Sultan Bayezid
the Thunderbolt had Güzelcehisar
(Anadoluhisarı – the Fortress of Anatolia)
built. The Ottoman sultans’ use of the
Üsküdar-Güzelcehisar route when making
their crossings over to the European side
became somewhat of a tradition, as it
provided ease of transport and military
security.
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Ottoman Üsküdar
Üsküdar developed rapidly after the
conquest of Istanbul on 29th May 1453.
During the reign of the Conqueror,
Üsküdar was more or less refounded, as he
settled a section of Turks from Anatolia,
who been long subject to nomadism, here,
and by having a covered bazaar built on
what is now Iskele Square, he ensured the
rapid development of trade.
Üsküdar’s privileged position distinguished
itself in its social life in every period, with
the city’s Muslim inhabitants seeing it as
the land of the Kaaba, and the Kuzguncuk
area being seen by the Jews as having the
quality of Jerusalem.
Route Recommendation to Explore the
Centre of Üsküdar: Looking at Istanbul
from Asia and Neighbourhood Life
İstanbul’a Asya’dan Bakmak ve Mahalle
Yaşamı
Looking at Istanbul from Asia and
neighbourhood Life
1) Üsküdar Square and Ahmet III Fountain
2) Mihrimah Sultan Mosque and Mosque
Complex
3) Fishermen’s Market
4) Mimar Sinan Market
5) Kara Davut Pasha Mosque
6) Fatih Courtroom – History of Justice
Museum
7) Gülfem Hatun Mosque
8) Detay Café and Mystic Herbalist
9) New Valide Mosque
10) Kite Museum
11) Aziz Mahmud Hüdai Mosque and
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Tomb
12) Kaptan Pasha Mosque
13) Summerhouses on Açık Türbe Street
14) Üsküdar Mevlevi Dervish Lodge
15) Sahra Villa
16) Holy Spring Park and Holy Spring
Mosque
17) Enfiyehane Street, Print Workshop and
Hamam Ruins
18) Fatih Madrasah - Salacak
19) Salacak Coast – Rest – Coffee Houses
20) Maiden’s Tower
21) Salacak - Lunch - Filizler Köftecisi
22) Üsküdar Marriage Office and Rumi
Mehmet Pasha Mosque
23) Şemsi Pasha Mosque and Mosque
Complex
24) Üsküdar Pier – Women’s Handiwork
Products Sales Point
25) Üsküdar Metro Station - or - Pier /
Final
1) Üsküdar Square and Ahmet III
Fountain
We are assuming that you will reach
Üsküdar either by sea or by the Üsküdar
Metro Station using the Marmaray
transport network. Whichever way you
come, you will come out at Üsküdar
Square.
For those who would stay overnight here,
there was a “caravanserai” behind a pier
known as Balaban Pier, which is where the
rowing boats would pull up.
The picture above shows the condition
of the Square in the spring of 2013. At
the front is the Ahmet III Fountain, and
directly behind that is the Mihrimah
Sultan Mosque and Mosque Complex. The
Marmaray had not yet been completed at
this time.
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Kuzguncuk Çarşı Caddesi
Fethi Paşa Yalısı
Hüseyin Avni Paşa Çeşmesi
Fethi Paşa Korusu
Nacak Sokak
Özbekler Tekkesi
İcadiye Caddesi
Nemlizade Tütün Deposu
Üsküdar İskelesi
ÜSKÜDAR
Salacak- Filizler Köftecisi - Kahvehaneler
Kız Kulesi
Şemsi Paşa C
Üsküdar Nikah Da
Rumi Mehmet Paş
Ayazma Cami ve Ayazma Parkı
Üsküdar Mevlevihanesi
Sahra Konağı
Enfiyehane Sokak
Basma İmalathanesi
Fatih Medresesi
Kaptan P
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Üsküdar Meydanı- 3. Ahmet Çeşmesi
Mihrimah Sultan Camii ve Külliyesi
Camii
Balıkçılar Çarşısı
airesi
şa Camii
Yeni Valide Camii
Detay Kafe - Ermiş Attar
Uçurtma Müzesi
Gülfem Hatun Camii
Fatih Mahkemesi - Adalet Tarihi Müzesi
Paşa Camii
Aziz Mahmut Hüdai Cami ve Türbesi
Açık Türbe Sokak
Mimar Sinan Çarşısı
Kara Davut Paşa Camii
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Did you know that Istanbul was 8000
years old?
The excavations carried out at Yenikapı
and Sirkeci, where the underground tube
connecting Üsküdar with the European
side comes out above ground, showed that
the first settlements in Istanbul date back
to 8000 years ago. The footprints belonging
to the first Istanbulites from 6000BC
were some of the finds that created much
excitement. You can find more detailed
content on the Istanbul Cultural Inventory
Archaeological Culture Map.
Ahmet III Fountain
The fountain on Üsküdar Square, which
Sultan Ahmet III had constructed on the
shore to assuage the thirst of travellers
crossing the Bosphorus, can be seen in the
picture above as it was in its first years.
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2) Mihrimah Sultan Mosque and Mosque
Complex - 1547-1548
After checking out the fountain, you can
go to the Mosque and Mosque Complex
of Mihrimah Sultan, which is directly
behind it.
The Mihrimah Sultan Mosque is one
of Mimar Sinan’s spectacular works in
Üsküdar, and it is said it is one of two
works which he created because of the
secret love he felt for Mihrimah Sultan.
The other is the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque
at Edirnekapı in Istanbul. This mosque,
which was constructed between 1547
and 1548, is one of the mosques that are
particular to Sinan, the plan scheme of
which he never repeated. You can take a
look at the plans and details of this mosque
and mosque complex on the “Sinan’a
Saygı” (“Respect to Sinan”) website,
which has been prepared by the Çekül
Foundation.
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3)Fishermen’s Market – The Vaulting
Stone
After leaving the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque
and Mosque Complex, turn right and
walk straight to the Fishermen’s Market
on Molla Eşref Street. This is a lively
market place where the freshest products
in Istanbul can be bought at the most
reasonable prices.
4) Mimar Sinan Market or the Old Atik
Valide Sultan Hamam - 1579
The “Mimar Sinan Market” right in front
of you on Hakimiyet-i Milliyet Avenue
was the “twin bathhouse” that Nurbanu
Sultan, the Venetian wife of Sultan Selim
II, had Mimar Sinan build in 1579. The
bathhouse, which closed in 1917, was
restored after being sold privately and
opened in 1966 as the Mimar Sinan
Market.
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5) Kara Davut Pasha Mosque - 1495
According to the Istanbul Cultural
Inventory, this mosque built in 1495 twice
suffered fires. After being restored by
Hacı Aziz in the 17th century, it was rerestored by the architect Hüseyin Agha for
Mahmud II in 1837.
Kara Davut Pasha was a “marksman” from
the time of Sultan Beyazit II. After seeing
the Kara Davut Pasha Mosque, cross
straight over Hakimiyeti Milliye Avenue.
6) Fatih Courtroom – History of Justice
Museum
On the corner of Eski Mahkeme Street,
you will see an old asymmetrical building
which has “Fatih Mahkemesi” written on
its gate.
The qadi of Üsküdar, together with the
other qadis, were answerable to the sultan
and the grand vizier. The first appointed
qadi was Hızır Bey, and the name of the
modern-day district of Kadıköy (“Village
of the Qadi”) was taken from his office.
(*) There is a tale about Hızır Bey, Sultan
Mehmet the Conqueror, and an architect,
which takes place in the old court building
you are now standing in front of. Bilsen
Gürer, “Bir Padişah, Bir Kadı ve Bir
Mimarın Buluştuğu Öykü”
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7) Gülfem Hatun Mosque
When you continue walking along Eski
Mahkeme Street, a little further on, to the
right of the road, you will see the Gülfem
Hatun Mosque. The mosque was built
between 1539 and 1540. The mosque you
see now is not as it was first built, as it has
been restored a few times because, in 1850,
this neighbourhood was engulfed in a fire,
and the madrasah and school next door
were also burnt down.
8) Detay Café and Mystic Herbalist
On the same street is a very good café
where you can sit down and take a
breather: “Detay Kahve”. At this café,
directly opposite the Gülfem Hatun
Mosque, they also do an extremely
delicious Turkish Coffee!
A little further on from there, you will
see a shop that sells herbal cures and
natural teas called “Ermiş Attar” (“Mystic
Herbalist”).
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9) New Valide Mosque (Nurbanu Sultan Atik Valide – Mosque Complex)
This work, which Sultan Ahmet III had
built for his mother, Gülnuş Emetullah
Sultan, is one of the largest baroqueclassical works in the region, and was
built the architect Kayserili Mehmet Agha
between 1708 and 1711. It is also called the
Cedit Valide, the Valide-i Cedit, or New
Valide Mosque.
It was built using cut-stone. The wooden
Hünkar Mahfil (a raised, screened loge)
in the interior is one of the most beautiful
examples of its kind.
One of the things that make this mosque
very special is the birdhouses on the
exterior wall of its courtyard.
10) Kite Museum
Half-way up the road is a wonderful,
completely unexpected surprise waiting
for those who start to climb this hill: the
Kite Museum. Its full name is: the Üsküdar
Council Mehmet Naci Aköz Kite Museum.
There is a materials store called “Uçurtma
Dünyası” (“Kite World”) next to the
museum on the lower floor of apartment
block no.12 on the corner where Azat
Yokuşu meets Bakıcı Street.
There is also a workshop in which to make
kites. Products in the collection have been
gathered since 1986.
www.ucurtmadunyasi.com
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11) Aziz Mahmut Hüdai Mosque and
Tomb
When you have finished climbing Azat
Yokuşu, it means that you have approached
the Aziz Mahmut Hüdai Mosque and
Tomb, which is one of the most visited
holy sites in Üsküdar. This area is a
place where the historical character of
Üsküdar has been well preserved, and
it also preserves all the liveliness of
neighbourhood life. Mahmut Hüdai was
an esteemed holy man who lived in the
16th and 17th centuries, through the
reigns of eight Ottoman sultans, from
Suleyman the Magnificent to Murat IV,
and he was also the founder of the Celveti
religious order.
The Mosque, with a single minaret, ceiling
with an engraved surface, and a hipped
roof, is an example today of the effect of
western elements in 19th century Ottoman
architecture.
12) Kaptan Pasha Mosque
Turn left at Abdi Efendi Street and a little
further on, on the right-hand corner
where this street is intersected by Kaptan
Paşa Street, you will see the Kaptan Pasha
Mosque upon a platform on the corner.
Admiral Kaymak Mustafa Pasha had this
single minaret mosque built in the 18th
century.
Where the Kaptan Pasha Mosque is now,
there used to be a small mosque built by
Hamza Fakih.
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13) Summerhouses on Açık Türbe Street
At this point, turn right and continue on Açık Türbe Street. As you walk along this street
that curves gently downwards, to your right and left you will see old houses and wooden
summerhouses.
To your right, there is an example of a summerhouse that is one of the most beautiful of these. It
is a shame that most of these buildings are not in the preserved condition that they should be.
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14) Üsküdar Mevlevi Dervish Lodge
These days, Doğancılar Avenue is one
of the most important and precious
avenues in Üsküdar. This hill, which is an
important place where sultans used to set
up their pavilions, is called Doğancılar
Tepesi (“Hill of the Hawkmen”) because of
the hunting with hawks that often used to
be carried out here. The “hawkmen” were
state officials in the court who, at the same
time, were responsible for the sultans’
hawks and for taking care of them and the
dormitory where the “hawkmen” stayed.
Nowadays, there are several historical
buildings still standing on Doğancılar
Avenue. One of them is the Üsküdar
Mevlevi Dervish Lodge.
The Üsküdar Mevlevi Dervish Lodge was
built in 1792 on the order of Sultanzâde
Numan Halil Dede, the sheikh of the
Galata Mevlevi Dervish Lodge. The
buildings of the Üsküdar lodge are still
standing and today it is used by the
Classical Turkish Arts Foundation for the
carrying out of various arts.
Opposite the Semâhâne, where the
dervishes perform their ceremonies, is the
two-storey “sheikh’s house”, which is now
the foundation’s administration building.
Sultan Mahmut II had the lodge rebuilt
between 1834 and 1835.
15) Sahra Villa and others
We now enter Tulumbacılar Street from
Doğancılar Avenue and begin to descend
the hill.
On the left, as you turn onto Karakol
Street, you are confronted by a rather
formally restored villa with a plaque on its
façade saying “Sahra Konak”.
16) Ayazma Park and Ayazma Mosque
After resting a while in Ayazma (Holy
Spring) Park, you can now have a pleasant
stroll around the Ayazma Mosque, which
is one of the most beautiful examples
of 18th century Ottoman Baroque
architecture.
This building, which is one of the most
elegant examples of monumental works
constructed after the Tulip Period, was
built for the mother of Sultan Mustafa III
by the top architect of the era, Mehmet
Tahir Agha, between 1760 and 1761.
The minaret, which is exited via steps
to the mosque from the three-gated
courtyard, has a single balcony. The
fountain in the courtyard was constructed
in 1760.
Üç kapılı avludan camiye merdivenle
çıkılan caminin minaresi tek şerefeli.
Avludaki çeşme 1760 yılında yaptırılmış.
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17) Enfiyehane Street, Print Workshop
and Bathhouse Remains
On Enfiyehane (“Snuffhouse”) Street,
there is an eye-catching structure with its
exterior plastered with mud-bricks which
at first glance is obviously the remains of
an old building. These are the remains of
an old bathhouse. In brief, it has nothing
to do with snuff.
The bathhouse is between Enfiyehane
Street and Öğdül Street, on the southern
side of the modern Primary School. Now,
only some walls remain.
18) Ressam Ali Rıza Street and Fatih
Madrasah - Salacak
On the corner where Enfiyehane Street
meets Ressam Ali Rıza Street, there is
the Şemsi Pasha Primary-Middle School
building, with a sign at the entrance, which
seems to be in good condition.
This building, which was built by Mimar
Kemalettin in 1758 and is the oldest
school in Üsküdar, used to be the Ayazma
Children’s School. The Humbaracı
Barracks, opened in 1731, lies on the
foundations of a building behind the
Ayazma Mosque.
When Mehmet Tevfik Bey, the
chamberlain of Sultan Mehmet V, saw the
ruined state of the school from which he
graduated in 1913, he appealed to Mehmet
V and the rebuilding of the school began.
Right next to an old restored Salacak
house, behind Salacak Iskele Street, there
is an extremely modest mosque. This is
the first place of worship that was built in
Üsküdar.
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19) Salacak Coast – Rest – Coffee Houses
– Taking Photographs
We can see Salacak in the paintings of
Şeker Ahmet Pasha, Hoca Ali Rıza Bey,
Hasan Rıza, and Hüseyin Zekai Pasha,
who mostly lived in Üsküdar, or in the
paintings of foreign artists, such as Fausto
Zonaro and Leonardo de Mango, who put
Üsküdar and Istanbul on their canvases.
20) The Maiden’s Tower
The tower, which has become the symbol
of Üsküdar, and in fact Istanbul, is the only
work in Üsküdar which remains from the
Byzantine Era. It has a history stretching
back to 2475BC, and was established on a
tiny island where the Black Sea meets the
Sea of Marmara.
The Maiden’s Tower, with its blinking
lighthouse, has never lost its function of
showing the way to affluent people and
ships passing in the night for centuries,
and it was once used for the purpose
of collecting tax from ships passing the
Bosphorus.
It was restored again in 2012, and now has
a bar, cafeteria, and restaurant on its top
floor.
For detailed information:
www.kizkulesi.com.tr
Telephone: 0216 342 47 47
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21) Salacak - Lunch - Filizler Köftecisi
We recommend the Filizler Köfte
restaurant at No. 61 Sahil Yolu.
This restaurant, which is directly opposite
the Maiden’s Tower, renowned for its tasty
köfte, began in Tuzla and opened this
branch in 2010.
Detailed information: http://www.filizler.
com - Telephone: 0216 343 45 49
22) Üsküdar Marriage Office and Rumi
Mehmet Pasha Mosque
Continuing straight towards Üsküdar
Square, on your right, in front of a building
set within a wooded garden, you will see
happy, bustling crowds of people. This is
the Üsküdar Marriage Office.
Rum Mehmet Pasha Mosque
On the coast road, you will see the Rum or
Rumi Mehmet Pasha Mosque, one of the
oldest Ottoman works in Istanbul. Mehmet
Pasha was actually a Byzantine Greek who,
after the conquest of Istanbul, preferring to
serve the Ottomans, became Muslim and
rose as high as Grand Vizier.
The mosque was completed and opened
to worship in 1471. It brings together both
Byzantine and Ottoman influences and
went through a comprehensive restoration
in 1953.
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23) Şemsi Pasha Mosque and Mosque
Complex
It is said that Mimar Sinan, while
designing this structure, because he
kept its dimensions modest when
generally religious buildings tended to be
monumental, had the wish to make one
which was “most efficaciously on a human
scale”.
The subject of how such a sound building
as a yalı-mosque could be constructed
with the technology of the time on a piece
of land so far into the sea can be explained
by Sinan’s engineering genius.
The Madrasah, which was turned into a
library in 1953, is now used as the Üsküdar
Şemsipaşa District Public Library. The
mosque complex went through a thorough
restoration in the years leading up to 2013.
The finds which emerged from the ground
during the course of the excavations are
now on display on the garden wall of the
courtyard looking over Üsküdar Square.
24) Üsküdar Pier – Women’s Handiwork
Products Sales Point
Here is a floating shop which displays the
handicrafts and art products of women
from Üsküdar and presents them for sale.
The Women’s Handicrafts Marketing
Project (KÜP) is actually one of Üsküdar
Council’s most important social projects.
http://www.gikap.org/kup.html
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25) Üsküdar Metro Station – or - Pier /
Final
You have toured the central zone
of historic Üsküdar, the lively
neighbourhoods and important historical
buildings, seen the works of Mimar Sinan,
and witnessed how the people of Üsküdar
live.
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Even More Üsküdar!
Üsküdar and the Near Bosphorus – From
Kuzguncuk Towards Üsküdar
Your stops:
-Kuzguncuk
-Paşalimanı
-Nacak Street
-Fethi Pasha Woods (Uzbek Dervish
Lodge)
-Old Nemlizade Tobacco Store
-Hüseyin Avni Pasha Fountain
Kuzguncuk
Kuzguncuk, between Üsküdar and
Beylerbeyi, is the first stop of the
Bosphorus on the Asian side. It used to be
known by the names of “Khrysokeramos”,
which had the meaning of “Golden
Ceramic”, and “Kosinitza”. There is another
story that it took its name from a mystic
named Kuzgun Baba. Jews first settled here
in the 19th century, and it is known that
they wanted to settle there and die and be
buried in Kuzguncuk, as it was accepted by
European Jews as being the “last stopover
before arriving in the Holy Land”. Later,
Greeks and Armenians came. Turks mostly
lived in Paşalimanı, between Üsküdar and
Kuzguncuk, but they later began to settle
in Kuzguncuk.
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Transport: You can come on one of
the steamboats that make tours of
the Bosphorus or via Üsküdar and
following the still remaining covering of
greenness and delightful yalıs that line the
Bosphorus.
The name of the avenue on which you
find yourself, with Paşalimanı to the left
of the Pier and Kuzguncuk to the right, is
Kuzguncuk Çarşı (Market) Avenue.
Mosque and Church: İskelenin karşısında
Opposite the pier and a little to the left, on
Kuzguncuk Çarşı Avenue, you will see the
Surp Krikor Lusaveriç (Saint Gregory the
Illuminator) Armenian Church, and right
next to it is the Kuzguncuk Mosque.
The Surp Krikor Lusaveriç Church
was built during the time of Patriarch
Zakaryan Ağavani (1831-1839) by the
Private Architect, Hovhannes Amira
Serveryan, and was opened for worship
in 1835. Its plan has the shape of a closed
Greek cross, which is used widely in
Armenian churches.
Official Website:
http://www.surpkrikorlusavoric.com
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İcadiye Avenue: On the left, as soon as you
enter the avenue is the Hagios Georgios
Greek Church. According to Christian belief,
because Jesus Christ was baptised in the
River Jordan, to commemorate this event,
community and spiritual representatives
of churches near to the sea, lakes, or rivers,
who represent him go to the shore after the
mass. The Holy Cross is thrown into the
water by the spiritual leader, accompanied
by prayers. Youths who are ready here jump
into the water and race to get the cross. This
small church is one of the places where this
ceremony was begun…
Üryanizade Street - When you continue
down the avenue, this is the first street on the
left. The houses on this street were studied by
the architect, Cengiz Bektaş, in the 80s.
Later, the painter, Alev Ermiş, the sculptor,
Bihrat Mavitan, the painter, Dilek Demirci,
and many other artists moved here.
Üryanizade Street, which took its name from
an old Sheikh-ul-Islam, Üryanizade Ömer
Efendi, has in recent years been known as
“Perihan Abla Street”, because it has been
used as the set for a rather popular television
soap opera called “Perihan Abla”.
Continue! You are walking on Icadiye
Avenue. The “Harmony Art Gallery” will
appear before you. Nearby there is the “Bir
Kuzguncuk Dükkanı” shop, which sells
special design products. A little further, on
the left, you can stop for a break at the “Pita”
café.
The Tools of Doctor Minasyan – Deniz
Pharmacy The people of Kuzguncuk once
only had one doctor, Dr. Ohannes Minasyan.
Despite him dying a long time ago, the
Deniz Pharmacy on Icadiye Avenue displays
Minasyan’s syringes, medicine boxes, and
other medical equipment in their shop
window.
Bican Efendi Street - Simotas Building –
Enter Bican Efendi Street on the right. Here
you will see the Simotas Building, which has
made the name of Kuzguncuk known again
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in recent years. It is named after an architect
named Simotas. Many Jewish, Christian, and
Muslim have lived together in this building.
Hagios Panteleimon Church
When you continue your walk along Icadiye
Avenue, you will see another church on the
right. This is the Greek Orthodox church
dedicated to Saint Panteleimon. The history
of the building itself goes back 550AD, to
the time of the Byzantine Emperor, Justinian
the Great. The church that existed then was
replaced by the present building in 1821.
On the road next to the church is a squareplanned holy spring, while its bell tower was
added in 1911 by Andon Hüdaverdioğlu. This
church is one of the oldest in Istanbul.
Next comes the Bet Yaakov Synagogue.
Because of the size of the community here,
there are two places of worship inside this
synagogue on Icadiye Avenue. Even though
it’s said it was built in 1878, it is thought that
it was constructed at an even earlier time. The
“Succoth” festival is traditionally celebrated
every year in this synagogue which is much
loved by the Jewish community. In the month
of Ramadan, Muslim guests are invited here
and given the iftar meal.
Bet Nisim Synagogue – There is another
slightly smaller synagogue in Kuzguncuk.
This is situated at the point where Tenekeci
Musa Street meets Yakup Street. It was built
in the 1840s and is known by the people
as the Virane or Kal de Ariva (Upper
Synagogue) or the Havra. The Kuzguncuk
Synagogue Foundation takes a very close
interest in these synagogues: http://
kuzguncuksinagoguvakfi.org.
Simitçi Tahir Street and Kahraman
Vegetable Garden - When you’ve arrived
at Simitçi Tahir Street, stop! Look at the
beautiful houses on the corner. The people
of Kuzguncuk, with a true civil-minded
conscience, have taken great trouble to
preserve Ilya’s Vegetable Garden and the
Kahraman Vegetable Garden. These same
people of Kuzguncuk have made hundreds of
scarecrows which have the aim of protecting
these green spaces, but each of which is a
separate work of art, and they have planted
them at every corner and between the streets.
The others are here:
http://www.kahramanbostan.org
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Food in Kuzguncuk
Icadiye Avenue continues further, but you
have seen the most important streets and
what there is to see. On the avenue right
next to you is the Pala Köfte shop. If you
curious about Turkish home cooking, our
recommendation is that you go to “Asude
Ev Yemekleri” where Asude Hanım cooks
small restaurant meals with her own hands
at No.4 Perihan Abla Street! If you like
meat, you can go the Met Et Döner, on the
avenue, which is one of the ten best döner
makers in Istanbul. “Ismet Baba” on the
shore is also a classic of Kuzguncuk. The
Café Sitare, which does world cuisine, may
also be among your options.
Before leaving Kuzguncuk, don’t forget to
get some cookies from the Yunus Emre
Bakery and drink a coffee at the historic
Çınaraltı on the shore!
Paşalimanı
On your left hand side, you will be
accompanied for a long time by the green
trees of the Kuzguncuk Woods (Fethi
Pasha Woods). The most striking and
historically important yalı is that of Ahmet
Fethi Pasha, which is among the yalıs you
pass going from the pier in the direction
of Üsküdar. The people of Kuzguncuk
call this the “Şevket Mocan Yalı” because
that was the name of a previous owner.
After the Pasha’s death, the yalı became
the property of his son-in-law, Şevket
Mocan, a lawyer and former MP, who was
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the grandson of Ingiliz Sait Pasha. Şevket
Mocan had the yalı painted pink, and after
a while it became known as the Pink Yalı.
Fethi Pasha Woods
This place is also known the Kuzguncuk
Woods and the Mocan Woods. It was
begun in the 19th century by Ahmet Fethi
Pasha. Fethi Pasha, who was the son-inlaw of Sultan Mahmud II, would spend his
summers at the yalı you have just seen, and
his winters in one of the villas he had built
in this wood.
Old Nemlizade Tobacco Store- Tekel
Building – Where this building is there
used to be the yalı of Hüseyin Avni Pasha.
This building was put up after that had
been pulled down. The building is now
used as an office by the Ciner Group, and
the Tekel Museum inside can only be seen
from outside. (Kültür Envanteri Fiche)
Hüseyin Avni Pasha Fountain – One of
the most beautiful works in Paşalimanı
and of those that have survived to this day,
it was built by Hüseyin Avni Pasha in 1874.
It is an Ottoman wall fountain made from
Marmara marble. On either side of the two
large taps, there are ten smaller ones.
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