parque de escalada chacco huayllascca

Ch´acco Huayllascca
Climbing Park
PITUMARCA – CUSCO
About the park
How to get there
Park Rules
Habitability
Climbing Guide
Jorge Sirvas
Leo Gonzales
WARNING
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE USING THIS GUIDE. IN “CH’ACCO
HUAYLLASCA CLIMBING PARK” EACH ONE GOES UNDER IT’S
OWN RESPONSIBILITY.
MEDICAL CARE COULD TAKE SOME TIME TO GET TO THE
CLIMBING SCENE IN CASE OF ACCIDENTS. CLIMBERS MUST
ASSUME FULLY RESPONSIBILITY FOR PERSONAL AND
PARTNER’S SAFETY.
AUTHORS CAN’T GUARANTEE THE ACCURATE INFORMATION
IN THIS GUIDE; DIFFICULTY GRADES ARE SUBJECTIVE AND
DEPEND ON CLIMBER PERSONAL FEATURES LIKE HEIGHT,
TECHNIQUE, EXPERIENCE AND CONFIDENCE.
ROUTES COULD CHANGE THROUGH PHYSICAL CONDITIONS OF
THE ROCK. BOLTS AND ANCHORS COULD VARY DUE
EXTREMELY CLIMATIC CONDITIONS, ROCK FALLING OR
VANDALISM.
OWN JUDGMENT IS FUNDAMENTAL WHEN: WALKING
AROUND, CHOOSING A ROUTE, CLIMBING SAFELY AND LEAVE
NO TRACE.
CLIMBERS MUST NOT DEPEND ON THIS GUIDE LOOKING
PERSONAL SAFETY. YOUR SAFE ACTIONS DEPEND ON YOUR
OWN EXPERIENCE, GEAR AND THE ABILITY TO MANAGE
OUTDOORS.
IF YOU DOUBT ABOUT YOUR CAPABILITIES FOR ANY OF THESE
ACTIVITIES, LOOK FOR A GUIDE OR EXPERIENCED CLIMBER
THAT CAN HELP YOU.
ABOUT THE PARK
7a escuela de escalada and the local climbers community in
Cusco seeking to develop new places for the sport they love,
create altogether with the rural community of Pampachiri
an it’s annex Ch’acco Huayllasca the “Ch’acco Huayllasca
Climbing Park”.
It depends on us to responsibly maintain over time this
beautiful place with huge potential of quality climbing
routes and pristine scenery.
Pampachiri Rural Community directly administrates this
project with the technical advice of 7a Escuela de escalada
and the administrative support from Pitumarca’s
municipality. We are aware that this project will benefit
positively in the local population in terms of national and
international tourism.
HOW TO GET THERE
Pitumarca’s district, Canchis’s Province is located 104 Km
south of Cusco City.
Public transportation.
Take a bus to Sicuani (Av. Huayruropata-Cusco). Get off the
bus in Checacupe town (1.5 Hours) and walk 5 minutes to
the main square where you can find regular minibuses going
to Pitumarca (20 min) every 15 minutes from 5 am to 6 pm.
Getting to the climbing area.
From Pitumarca’s main square you can find mototaxis going
to Ch’acco huayllasca at any time. You could also walk 7 km
uphill on a beautifully single track.
Climbing Area Map
From pitumarca’s main square go to Pampachiri and ask for the detour that
goes to CH’acco Huayllasca.
Follow the trail that goes up to Ch’acco huayllasca 6 km, if you are walking
you will find some usefull shorecuts instead of following the main road.
PARK RULES
 Every visitor must register, pay the entrance fee and
sign the release of liability before getting in the park.
Entrance fee
Per day
S/. 2.00
Per week
S/. 5.00
Per month S/. 20.00
Two Soles
Five Soles
Twenty Soles
For registration please contact:
Fredy Choque 984574963
Eduardo Castelo 990333084
 Motorized vehicles are only allowed from 6 am to
5:30 pm due to the sound and lights disturb the local
fauna like llamas and alpacas.
 Fire is not allowed in open areas because it could
spread.
 Camp only in designed areas to avoid soil degrading.
 Fishing trout in the river is only for the locals.
 Respect the agricultural fields, animals and
tranquility of local life style.
 Take with you all the inorganic and organic garbage.
 You must use the bathrooms in the park but if you
have an emergency remember going far from the
climbing areas, agricultural fields and water sources,
make a big hole and don’t leave toilet paper.
HABITABILITY
 Pitumarca is a small beautiful town with all the basic
services for long and comfortable staying. It counts
with a nice Market, Internet cabins, drugstore, a
couple restaurants, medical post and police station.
 Lodging options in town cost around S/.10 Soles and
some of them have parking lot.
 Camping in Ch’acco Huayllasca’s community room
cost S/. 5 Soles and it should be arranged in advance
with Fredy Choque (984574963).
 Best option for eating is in the market but there are
a couple small restaurants for you to choose. You
could also arrange in advance some meals with some
of the locals inside the park.
 Is better to buy food provisions in town instead of
bringing them from the city so we support local
income.
ROUTES GUIDE
GENERAL MAP
For an orderly Development of the park, this are the first sectors for
bolting.
SECTOR LIBRON
LIBRON - HOJA 1 - PARTE BAJA
#
1
2
3
4
5
6
Nombre de la ruta
Umlauff
Dif.
Altura
Año
7c+
29 mts
2015
7a+/b 23 mts
2015
Nico R, Diana G, Cocor
Mare-tierra
Matias R, Fredy A, Cocor
Techo techito placon
?
30 mts
2015
?
30 mts
2015
6b
20 mts
2015
6b/+ 20 mts
2015
Cocor
Placa plaquita placon
Leo Gonzales
Como chupando mango
Daniel San, Leo G.
Chiri - paso
Chano C, Fredy A.
LIBRON - HOJA 2 - PARTE BAJA
#
1
Nombre de la ruta
Cuidado con el arbolito
Diana Gomez
2
Maryvonval
3
foscarina33
4
Chilla Rumi L1-L2
5
Tercer Aniversario
6
Vuelo Libre
7
Sekay
8
Kayara
9
180° Cocor
Matias Rubio
Matias Rubio
Leo Gonzales
Matias Rubio
Cocor
Diana Gomez
Diana Gomez, Cocor
Nicolas Romero
10
Clavel
11
Tawa Toqo
Cocor
Rodrigo Mendoza, Beth
Dif.
Altura
Año
5+
20 mts
2016
6a
16 mts
2015
6a
16 mts
2015
6a+
45 mts
2015
5+
25 mts
2015
7c/+
25 mts
2015
6c
29 mts
2015
6c+
30 mts
2015
6b
25 mts
2015
6b
22 mts
2015
6c
15 mts
2015
SECTOR
LIBRON - HOJA 3 - PARTE BAJA
#
1
Nombre de la ruta
Vizcacher L1-L2
Matias Rubio
2
Riti Cauri
3
Pachamama
4
Ch´aska Ñawi
5
Capitan Jack Esparrago
6
Y donde esta el bidedo?
7
Casisito un quinto
Rodrigo Mendoza, Beth
Cocor
Diana Gomez
Jack Sierralta
Cocor
Cocor
Dif.
Altura
Año
7b+/c 35 mts
2015
?
23 mts
2015
?
30 mts
2015
7a+
30 mts
2015
6b
20 mts
2015
6c
24 mts
2016
6b
20 mts
2016
SECTOR DESPLOME DE ESTALACTITAS
DESPLOME DE ESTALACTITAS - DIAMANTE
#
1
2
Nombre de la ruta
Chiripa
Cocor
RE-CHA-CA
Cocor
Dif.
Altura
Año
6a
18 mts
2015
?
20 mts
2015
DESPLOME DE ESTALACTITAS - GRAN DESPLOME
#
1
Nombre de la ruta
Luna Azul L1(8a)-L2(8a)
Leonardo de Rivero
2
Fredy Machete (7b Hasta R1)
3
Hipnosis
4
Aldo 4:20
5
Cuidado que muerdo
6
Pepe le pew
7
Coco-Drilo
8
Me I eat dust (Migajitas)
9
Proyecto
10
Cody Roth
Leonardo de Rivero
Leonardo de Rivero
Leonardo de Rivero
Leonardo de Rivero
Cody Roth
Cody Roth
Cocor
Kangux
Juanga Estellano, Emiliano Poleti
Dif.
Altura
Año
8?
32 mts
2015
8a+
32 mts
2015
7c/+
25 mts
2016
?
25 mts
2016
7b
25 mts
2016
?
35 mts
2016
7b/+ 25 mts
2015
6b
18 mts
2015
?
22 mts
2016
8a
15 mts
2015
Bolting Policy & New Routes
Routes in the Park could be opened for sport climb, Trad
Climb and bouldering.
When opening a new route is very important avoiding over
bolting.
Routes could be opened from ground up or top rope
depending on the practicability for bolting and the climber
vision.
Quality of Limestone rock is ideal for 3/8 X 3 or 4 inches
bolts.
For an orderly Development of the park there are only a
few sectors to start bolting, in such a way there will be a big
concentration of routes in a sector before moving to a
different new area.
Climbers must respect the style and protection used in a
route that has been opened in trad climbing.
If there is a route that you think is too hard or bolts are too
far, maybe that route is not for your climbing level.
Personal criteria is important before climbing a new route
respecting Bolting Crew’s Vision.
Route Maintenance
If you find in a route something dangerous that should be
re bolt like weathering or loose bolt and anchor please
contact with:
Jorge ¨Cocor¨ Sirvas
[email protected]
Diana Gomez
[email protected]
Leonardo Gonzales
[email protected]
Check list sorted by difficulty
BOLTING CREW
Diana Gomez
Leonardo ¨Leo grande¨ Gonzales
Leonardo ¨Leo pequeño¨ de Rivero
Matías Rubio
Cody Roth
Rodrigo Mendoza
Nicolás Romero
Juan Gabriel Estellano
Emiliano Polletti
Luciano ¨Chano¨ Casanova
Fredy James Achahui
Jack Sierralta
Daniel Gordillo
Jorge ¨Cocor¨ Sirvas
#
Grado
Nombre
1
2
5+
5+
Cuidado con el arbolito
Tercer Aniversario
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
6a
6a
6a
6a+
6b
6b
6b
6b
6b
6b
6b/+
6c
6c
6c
6c+
Maryvonval
foscarina33
Chiripa
Chilla Rumi L1-L2
Como chupando mango
180° Cocor
Clavel
Capitan Jack Esparrago
Casisito un quinto
Me I eat dust (Migajitas)
Chiri - paso
Seqay
Tawa Toqo
Y donde esta el bidedo?
Kayara
18
19
20
21
7a+
7a+/b
7b
7b/+
22
23
24
25
7b+/c
7c/+
7c/+
7c+
Ch´aska Ñawi
Mare-tierra
Cuidado que muerdo
Coco-Drilo
Vizcacher L1-L2
Vuelo Libre
Hipnosis
Umlauff
26
27
8a
8a+
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
Kangux
Fredy Machete (7b Hasta R1)
Techo techito placon
Placa plaquita placon
Riti Cauri
Pachamama
RE-CHA-CA
Luna Azul L1(8a)-L2(8a)
Aldo 4:20
Pepe le pew
Proyecto
Sector
QUINTOS
Libron Hoja 2
Libron Hoja 2
SEXTOS
Libron Hoja 2
Libron Hoja 2
Placa Diamante
Libron Hoja 2
Libron Hoja 1
Libron Hoja 2
Libron Hoja 2
Libron Hoja 3
Libron Hoja 3
Desplome de estalactitas
Libron Hoja 1
Libron Hoja 2
Libron Hoja 2
Libron Hoja 3
Libron Hoja 2
SEPTIMOS
Libron Hoja 3
Libron Hoja 1
Desplome de estalactitas
Desplome de estalactitas
Metros A vista Flash Punto Rojo
Libron Hoja 3
Libron Hoja 2
Desplome de estalactitas
Libron Hoja 1
OCTAVOS
Desplome de estalactitas
Desplome de estalactitas
PROYECTOS
Libron Hoja 1
Libron Hoja 1
Libron Hoja 3
Libron Hoja 3
Placa Diamante
Desplome de estalactitas
Desplome de estalactitas
Desplome de estalactitas
Desplome de estalactitas
35 mts
25 mts
25 mts
29 mts
20 mts
25 mts
16 mts
16 mts
18 mts
45 mts
20 mts
25 mts
22 mts
20 mts
20 mts
18 mts
20 mts
29 mts
15 mts
24 mts
30 mts
30 mts
23 mts
25 mts
25 mts
15 mts
32 mts
30 mts
30 mts
23 mts
30 mts
20 mts
32 mts
25 mts
35 mts
22 mts
If you want to help with bolting gear, climbing gear or
any ability that can help developing this beautifull
climbing proyect, please contact.:
[email protected]
UPDATED 30 DE MARZO DEL 2016
CUSCO - PERU